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Old 08-20-2012, 12:41 AM   #1
tremor
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Default Wheel stud removal - 2009 WRX

I recently learned a valuable lesson about using a torque wrench on lug nuts. Prior to my WRX, I'd always just done them good and tight. Well that method ruined (or at least finished the job) on 6 of my wheel studs follow my first rotation.

After doing a lot of looking, the general feeling I got was "front's are easy, rears are more complicated". I even found a very detailed guide on 2007 rear wheel studs (on another site), but the design apparently changed.

It's not very complicated, but for those like me, it would have been nice to have seen a visual confirmation before setting out.

Tools needed:

17mm wrench - for front caliper bolts
14mm wrench - for rear caliper bolts
hammer
8 x 1.25 bolts - in case your rotors won't come off easily (mine both did w/o issue)
washers (>8mm, i used 7 half inch washers) - to seat studs in hub
torque wrench
replacement studs - M8x1.25 not sure on official length. O'Rielly didn't have any, Auto zone shows M8x1.5(!). I knew what I was looking for, but ended up having to drive across town to the dealer (part 28365FE001). $2.75/each Found longer studs online, but couldn't find anything I could be sure were the right one on the usual car part sites.

Front wheels


IMG_1823 by cricketcorpse, on Flickr

Use the 17mm wrench to remove the caliper.


IMG_1825 by cricketcorpse, on Flickr

Suspend the caliper from the suspension using a wire coat hanger or other method.


IMG_1826 by cricketcorpse, on Flickr

Line up the target bolt facing the front of the car. WD-40 the bolt on both sides and start hitting with a hammer. Slow and steady and she'll pop out.


IMG_1827 by cricketcorpse, on Flickr

The stock length studs required me to slightly hammer the lip of the disk guard. After inserting the stud, I just tapped it back.

Stack the washers on the stud and use a lug nut to pull the stud into the hub. I used the torque wrench set to 75lbs and never hit the max. (pic below)


Rear wheels

Use the 14mm wrench to remove caliper bolts, suspend the caliper from the suspension, and DISENGAGE YOUR PARKING BREAK (with front wheels chocked). I forgot the last step and used the 8mm x 1.25 "helper bolts" to start pulling the rotor before pausing to wonder why I had so much resistance.


IMG_1828 by cricketcorpse, on Flickr

Again, rotate the target stud to the front of the car side. There is a gap you can push the target stud into and pull the stock length studs through. Longer studs look to require you to remove the hub.


IMG_1829 by cricketcorpse, on Flickr

Pull the stud(s) back on with the aforementioned washers.


IMG_1832 by cricketcorpse, on Flickr

Reverse instructions and you're good to go. Feel free to make suggestions. Hope this helps someone.
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Old 08-20-2012, 01:02 AM   #2
Counterfit
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Seems like the front is the same as earlier years. Nicely done, though.
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Old 08-20-2012, 01:55 AM   #3
nottofast
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Very slight difference in the front studs I noticed. Was messing around with a 2005 STI hub and noticed the stud had a few minor differences. Just happened to have a bin full of older studs laying around and compared them. Nice post.
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Old 08-20-2012, 02:04 AM   #4
Counterfit
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A 2005 STI hub is not the same as a WRX/RS/i hub.
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Old 08-20-2012, 04:30 AM   #5
sc00by4life
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Counterfit
A 2005 STI hub is not the same as a WRX/RS/i hub.
It's close enough that the process is the same.
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Old 08-22-2012, 11:47 AM   #6
tazswing
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Funny, b/c I am about to do a stud install myself. thank you for the write up.

A trick I use whenever baning hammers against metal is to have a piece of wood in between. Tends to keep a metal part from getting marred/disfigured.
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Old 08-22-2012, 12:43 PM   #7
tremor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tazswing View Post
A trick I use whenever baning hammers against metal is to have a piece of wood in between. Tends to keep a metal part from getting marred/disfigured.
Great point when you're looking to keep your studs for future use.
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Old 08-22-2012, 02:59 PM   #8
sc00by4life
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tremor

Great point when you're looking to keep your studs for future use.
They will be useless. Once they are removed, you shouldn't reinstall unless you plan to drill them out next time (and costing you a lug in the process).

The splines on the stud get sandwiched into the hub, and once they are removed they are useless. The stud will start to spin in the hub, making wheel removal very difficult.
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Old 08-26-2012, 12:28 PM   #9
Counterfit
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Wheel studs are so cheap that there's no reason to use them twice.
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Old 08-30-2012, 03:55 PM   #10
LoveMyNewSoob
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I just had to replace one on my 09 the other day on a front wheel. I got the part at Subaru to make sure it was the right size. The guy there told me it would be to much paper work and gave it to me for free!
The caliper bolts were a mofo to get off! Turning the wheel helped to expose them for more leverage.
A tip I saw on another website was to put the stud in the freezer to shrink it a bit and make it easier to pull through. I am not sure if this actually helped, but it was a pretty easy process all in all.
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Old 11-11-2013, 08:57 AM   #11
dwf137
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old thread bump.... Thanks for the writeup and photos.

tackling this soon, just stripped a stud while swapping to my winter wheels. Glad to know I don't need to pull ABS sensors like the previous generations.
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Old 11-11-2013, 10:24 AM   #12
besthaticouldo
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I need to do my rears with extended studs...hoping this is easy.
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