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Old 08-28-2012, 09:04 PM   #1
ckyguy68
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Metro Detroit
Vehicle:
2006 STIROID
10.5@131 on 29psi

Default AK's Monster "STIROID" 2006 STI Build-2013 UPDATE- FP GT3794R ((lots of pics))

UPDATE: Part 2 Build underway! Starts on page 7!

Hello Gents

This is my first ever "build log" Car is a 2006 Black Sti with 68k.

I'm assembling my engine this week and I wanted to give a build log a shot. My buddy and I are opening a shop soon and this car is going to be our poster child. I'm aiming for 650 whp on 93+ meth and 750+ whp on C16 and 9s in the 1/4 in street trim! Hopefully will be the fastest STI in Michigan (not sure who is) at the moment. I will be updating the thread with pics as I go along.

The car is being tuned by Aaron Rose(business partner/tuner/builder) , and yours truly.

Engine:
Darton Sleeves, Installed and Line bored by Justice Racing Engines (darton east)
JE 101.5 mm custom pistons
Manley I beam "turbo tuff" rods
Nitrided OEM crank
King Bearings
Cosworth Oil Pump
Killer B Oil Pickup
Grimspeed air/oil separator
BC Stage 3 cams
BC Springs/Retainers
BC SS +1mm valves
Bronze Valve guides
Balanced Roatating assembly
Fluidamper Pulley
Heavily Worked Heads
Cometic 102mm .060" gaskets
AMR EL Header
Custom Up Pipe
Forced Performance GT3794r
TIAL 44mm Wastegate
Custom Downpipe
3.5" Straight back to Invidia N1 Race Muffler
Turbo XS Intercooler w/ modified piping
TIAL "Q" BOV
Stock Ported Intake, TGVs ported
Aeromotive Fuel Rail Kit
DeatschWerks 1300cc top feeds
-6 AN feed and stock return lines, (soon to be -8AN feed and -6AN return)
Twin 255 walbros in tank w/ Full Blown Hanger
Okada Plasma Direct Coils
Gates Timing Kit
AEM Methanol Injection
AEM Series 1 saving for series 2
Mishimoto Radiator

Transmission:
2006 6 Speed (not ideal for drag but works for now)
REM ISF gear coating
Exedy twin disc
DSS Stage 5 Rear axle/Hub kit
Synthetic Tranny/Diff fluids

Suspension:
Whiteline Rear control Arms
Tein Lowering springs
Whiteline Rear swaybar mounts

Body:
Weight reduction
Cage in near future

I'm sure I have forgotten a few things

Will be adding pictures tonight. Thanks for looking

Current tune: 93+meth 30psi

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Last edited by ckyguy68; 06-03-2013 at 05:50 PM.
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Old 08-28-2012, 10:09 PM   #2
john 1badSTI
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on e85@ 30psi--spinning

Default

the build looks pretty good but the bc cams are not going to get you there,either custom kelfords or maybe gsc3's.Personally I would have a set of kelfords done and would call and talk to Kevin Ban about your build and goal and let him grind what you need to get there.Trust me it will take a very good combo to get to those c16 #'s let alone those pump gas #'s but good luck and hope it goes well.
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Old 08-28-2012, 10:31 PM   #3
albersondh
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No E85 tune? Understandable if your trying to avoid injector swaps if your dead set on a c16 tune. I drive from Wayne to Warren on E85 everyday never had a single avaiability problem. I run a GM FFV sensor (-8 pump forward -6 retuen) with dash mounted Ethonal content display. This summer filling up all over the place I have yet to see it drop below E84. Pretty sure dual Wally 465's would hang just fine in place of those 255's.

Why not stroke it and keep some meat on the dartons, not that it would bean issue, but would make a rebore in the event of a failure that chews a bore a bit more fesable and create a more optimal rod ratio. Not sure what max bore on Dartons is? I got my spare block starting to come together now and based off a quick and dirty bore gauge its looking like Ill be doing Dartons as well, but keeping it 99.5 for reasons pointed out above.

What crank? Im building a motor from the ground up so Im looking at a lot of options right now.

Your build sounds nuts man keep the updats flowing.
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Old 08-28-2012, 11:07 PM   #4
ckyguy68
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10.5@131 on 29psi

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by john 1badSTI View Post
the build looks pretty good but the bc cams are not going to get you there,either custom kelfords or maybe gsc3's.Personally I would have a set of kelfords done and would call and talk to Kevin Ban about your build and goal and let him grind what you need to get there.Trust me it will take a very good combo to get to those c16 #'s let alone those pump gas #'s but good luck and hope it goes well.
Thanks John, The car made 584 awhp on BC stage 2s and a 35r, then on this same build last fall it made 592 on pump at 26psi on this 3794. before we ran into issues. Both runs on AMS dyno. Though the BCs may not be the best option, I am confident with them. This FP 3794r really moves an insane amount of air.

Quote:
Originally Posted by albersondh View Post
No E85 tune? Understandable if your trying to avoid injector swaps if your dead set on a c16 tune. I drive from Wayne to Warren on E85 everyday never had a single avaiability problem. I run a GM FFV sensor (-8 pump forward -6 retuen) with dash mounted Ethonal content display. This summer filling up all over the place I have yet to see it drop below E84. Pretty sure dual Wally 465's would hang just fine in place of those 255's.

Why not stroke it and keep some meat on the dartons, not that it would bean issue, but would make a rebore in the event of a failure that chews a bore a bit more fesable and create a more optimal rod ratio. Not sure what max bore on Dartons is? I got my spare block starting to come together now and based off a quick and dirty bore gauge its looking like Ill be doing Dartons as well, but keeping it 99.5 for reasons pointed out above.

What crank? Im building a motor from the ground up so Im looking at a lot of options right now.

Your build sounds nuts man keep the updats flowing.
I've strayed away from E85 for right now because of the injector and pump upgrade, but I will absolutely consider it an option next spring.

As for the bore size I completely agree, it's a really long story but I bought the JE pistons from someone and the sleeves were already maxed out. If I do this motor again, (eventually will) I will be going with a smaller bore to leave room to clean up and order a new set of pistons. I'm sure you can understand my price point seeing as a custom set of JEs is $1200+ dollars and there was nothing wrong with these ones.

Last edited by ckyguy68; 08-28-2012 at 11:17 PM.
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Old 08-28-2012, 11:09 PM   #5
ckyguy68
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10.5@131 on 29psi

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Few pics of the car



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Old 08-28-2012, 11:12 PM   #6
ckyguy68
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New carpet
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Old 08-28-2012, 11:13 PM   #7
ckyguy68
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Changed the gauge setup a little.... missing the oil temp !



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Old 08-28-2012, 11:14 PM   #8
ckyguy68
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Case halves received from Darton!


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Old 08-28-2012, 11:42 PM   #9
john 1badSTI
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on e85@ 30psi--spinning

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if you can swing it I would o-ring it if it were mine(btw my 101mm sleeved block is).
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Old 08-29-2012, 01:07 AM   #10
ckyguy68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john 1badSTI View Post
if you can swing it I would o-ring it if it were mine(btw my 101mm sleeved block is).
We've had good experiences with the cometic gaskets and ARP L19s, I have not had a HG failure so far, we shall see how it does in the higher boost numbers and then take it from there!
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Old 08-29-2012, 02:49 PM   #11
brandywine050
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if i'm not mistaken this car had made 590~ on a 3586? and 3 cylinders at ams lol. i look foward to seeing what this can do! keep us updated sir very interesting indeed!
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Old 08-29-2012, 03:05 PM   #12
ckyguy68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandywine050 View Post
if i'm not mistaken this car had made 590~ on a 3586? and 3 cylinders at ams lol. i look foward to seeing what this can do! keep us updated sir very interesting indeed!
Haha! You may be correct Brandon. I'm sure you'll be updated on progress!
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Old 08-29-2012, 03:11 PM   #13
ckyguy68
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Got the case halves cleaned and prepped for the crank



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Old 08-29-2012, 03:17 PM   #14
ckyguy68
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Pre clearance checking.


Cleaned crank, ready for rods.


Manley "turbo Tuff" I beams.


Installing rods for clearance checking with plastigage.


After clearances were verified, the rod bolts were stretched to spec. I didn't get any pictures during that process because it is rather intense. Stretching the bolts is the only way to make sure they are properly loaded. Here is the proper tool to use.

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Old 08-29-2012, 03:26 PM   #15
ckyguy68
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Here is the turbo, FP GT3794r, flows around 90 lbs/min, 42r numbers, with the footprint of a 35r. Can you say sneaky??



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Old 08-29-2012, 03:28 PM   #16
ckyguy68
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Little instragram shot of the intake ports.

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Old 08-29-2012, 10:11 PM   #17
ckyguy68
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Wish I would have taken more pics while closing the case, but wanted to get everything tight before the sealant set!




Rags on the rods... don't need any scratches!
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:44 AM   #18
berdugo
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Silver

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Looks great, goodluck on your build
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Old 08-30-2012, 02:20 PM   #19
ckyguy68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berdugo View Post
Looks great, goodluck on your build
Thanks man! I appreciate it!
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Old 08-30-2012, 03:55 PM   #20
ckyguy68
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10.5@131 on 29psi

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Setting ring gaps!



For those who don't know why this piston is upside down- You place a ring on the piston and push the ring being gapped into the bore for a perfectly true ring depth when you are measuring your gap!



Ring filer/beer holder!


And we have pistons installed!



Cosworth Oil pump installed



On the stand, heads are up next!


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Old 08-30-2012, 04:04 PM   #21
stretchedk7
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looking good man. good luck.
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:44 PM   #22
dukeduster
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Looks really good! I do have a question for ya though. Using plasti gage on the rod bearings? Are they not coated? The reason I ask cause when I tried to do that the plasti-gage wanted to smash into the bearing coating when torquing the rod bolts. Its also very hard to keep the rod from moving while doing this.
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:37 PM   #23
ckyguy68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dukeduster View Post
Looks really good! I do have a question for ya though. Using plasti gage on the rod bearings? Are they not coated? The reason I ask cause when I tried to do that the plasti-gage wanted to smash into the bearing coating when torquing the rod bolts. Its also very hard to keep the rod from moving while doing this.
I'm not sure if plasti-gauge has a "shelf life", but I have felt some that is just harder for some reason. I've seen hard plasti-gauge dig into bearings like that. You can try rolling it around in your fingers to soften it up a little bit, but if you dented your coating I would suggest replacing the bearing(s)

As for holding the rod steady, some people use a jig that holds the crank and the rod steady, or you can grab a couple buddies!




<---- Ford Engine Lab Technician and Ex- Subaru WRC Mechanic-------->
Now that's what I call help!

Last edited by ckyguy68; 08-31-2012 at 03:29 AM.
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:33 PM   #24
stretchedk7
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^^ nice man!! glad its coming along.
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Old 08-31-2012, 03:30 AM   #25
ckyguy68
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Quote:
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^^ nice man!! glad its coming along.
After 3 months of waiting, me too Thanks!
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