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Old 09-02-2012, 12:26 PM   #1
ChrisInVT
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Member#: 320682
Join Date: May 2012
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: The Woods, VT
Vehicle:
1998 Outback
Black/Green

Default '98 OBW 2.5L Engine pulled for clutch/oil leaks - now what?

I pulled the engine out of my car to put in a new clutch and the TSK1 kit along with fixing all the oil leaks.

It looks like the engines been out of the car already, I'm wondering if it was for the HG's because the outside of them sure don't look like there's 165k of grease on them like the rest of the engine does. Pulled the timing belt covers on the L & R sides and the belt doesn't look like there's 165k on it either. Gotta pull the crank pulley off today so I can tear into it further. I'm going to replace the rear main seal and the oil separator plate, that'll cut down on my oil leaks. Also going to replace the valve cover and oil pan seals since they're leaking too.

Now I'm wondering what else I should do while I have the engine out. It sounds like it has piston slap/valvetrain noise when it's first started, low oil pressure when hot at idle, leaks/burns about a quart every 800-1,000 miles, and has a misfire on cyl 3 & 4 from 3,000 - 3,500 RPM.

I was considering tearing into it a bit more than just the oil leaks, but I don't have the time, patience or desire to get myself into a rebuild. I've just been running it on 10w-40 with a quart of Lucas additive in the crankcase for about 6 months & 5,000 miles now, which has helped the low oil pressure when warm problem. The PO put in new NGK plugs & wires with a new OEM coil trying to get the misfire to go away with no luck. Also has new O2 sensors for the same issue. The low oil pressure when warm & noise at startup came from the PO driving it about75 miles with a bad oil pressure sensor that was spewing out oil everywhere (he kept pulling over and feeding it oil).

I bought the car with the assumption the motor was blown (he said it knocked and leaked oil everywhere, all I did was replace the bad oil pressure sender and change the oil since the knock was just at startup). I was planning on running this engine until it dies and replacing it with a known good one from a rotted out car, or getting an engine to rebuild as a side project. I have a '92 Lumina that's had piston slap at startup for the past 100,000 miles so I'm not too worried, I just take it easy until the engine warms up.
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Old 09-02-2012, 02:29 PM   #2
ChrisInVT
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Member#: 320682
Join Date: May 2012
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: The Woods, VT
Vehicle:
1998 Outback
Black/Green

Default

Ugh, I keep finding surprises the more I disassemble this motor.

For example, the timing belt cover has had the crank pulley rubbing against it, and it's stamped EJ22 on the inside. Along with that, whoever replaced the valve cover gaskets didn't install the one on the driver's side properly, because instead of being in the groove, the top rear of the gasket was just sitting there, not sealing anything at all. I found a missing bolt on the timing cover, along with a part of the block broken off where another bolt for the timing cover threads in.

Looks like the timing belt and I'm going to assume head and valve cover gaskets were definitely changed at some point. Especially since everything is covered in silicone... ugh. There's a bunch of belt dust on the backside of the timing covers which concerns me - but that might be from the previous belt (after seeing the work done to this motor, not cleaning the timing covers wouldn't surprise me at all).

It's dirty as hell behind the timing cover from the oil leak on top of the motor, but everything looks to be in good condition, although I'm not really sure of a *good* way to check it.

EDIT: Pictures

This is how the motor sits (still trying to find an engine stand to borrow):




Removed the leaking oil separator plate, going to get the new steel one - but this is the discustingness on the inside that I found:




Damage to cover:




Broken-ness:




I hope that's not important:




Not sure if that's left over from the oil leak, or the hydraulic assembly in the idler arm is leaking - although the belt is very tight:




Timing belt covers, note center cover says EJ22 and belt dust on it and the others:






Idler wheels are dirty as f**k! The gasket that's supposed to seal the covers was pretty much non-existent. In the few spots where there was a gasket, it was destroyed and hanging:


Last edited by ChrisInVT; 09-02-2012 at 03:53 PM. Reason: added pictures
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Old 09-03-2012, 05:18 PM   #3
JJay03
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Member#: 279061
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cincinnati
Vehicle:
98 Legacy GT

Default

I would pull the oil pump and reseal it and replace the o-ring on it. While you got the valve covers off it would be a good time to get the cam sprockets off and replace the cam seals also.
Hearing the issues you are running into I might want to redo the hg's and everything though sounds like the PO didnt know what they were doing.
You also dont know how old those timing belt idler bearings are or that water pump.
You could also check the valve lash while the valve covers are off.

Here was the thread I started when I did the HG's on my 98 DOHC.
http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...ns-187715.html
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Old 09-04-2012, 08:59 AM   #4
ChrisInVT
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Member#: 320682
Join Date: May 2012
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: The Woods, VT
Vehicle:
1998 Outback
Black/Green

Default

I don't want to mess with the HGs or cam seals, I'm trying to stick with the "If it ain't broke.." as much as possible. I need the car running by this weekend because I'm planning on driving it to Long Island & back for a week-long vacation. All I *needed* to do was replace the TOB, but I got carried away with a new clutch and wanting to fix oil leaks. I figured, "while I have the motor out..."

I was going to check the lash and see if the local subie dealer would give me a quote for doing the adjustment if I just brought in the motor. I don't want to deal with this shimming BS I keep hearing about.

Going to the dealer today to order parts!

Good read BTW
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:01 AM   #5
JJay03
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Member#: 279061
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cincinnati
Vehicle:
98 Legacy GT

Default

These motors are known to have many HG failures if not done right with the newest MLS design so just trying to save you some extra work later. I can understand if you dont have the money or time now though. My HG's were done before not sure by who but they were not original and they failed again.
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:08 AM   #6
ChrisInVT
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Member#: 320682
Join Date: May 2012
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: The Woods, VT
Vehicle:
1998 Outback
Black/Green

Default

I just hate to tear down and put HGs on a motor with other existing issues, and I really don't have the extra time to tear into it on that kind of level. I'll be cursing myself for not doing it now when they fail, but pulling the motor isn't a big deal as long as it doesn't happen in the winter (since this is my winter car).

If it didn't have low oil pressure and piston slap I'd probably do then, but I was also considering pulling the motor in the spring for a full rebuild (or finding another motor and going over it with HGs, engine seal kit, timing belt, etc). Haven't decided on what I'd like to do there yet.

EDIT:

Oh surprises, how I love you...





Neither of the drivers side cam gears are lined up.

Last edited by ChrisInVT; 09-04-2012 at 10:31 PM.
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