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Old 04-09-2010, 06:57 PM   #1
iluvdrt
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Default 2005 WRX-98 Legacy GT wagon 5MT swap WIP

See lower down for updates regarding problems later on I had.

Well I am starting my 5 speed swap on Monday after my auto-x. I will try to document everything here and make things comprehensive for future swappers. Hopefully I have everything. The only thing I am not sure about is which drive shaft to use. I have the auto drive shaft that is on it, and I also have the sedan manual drive shaft.

I bought the swap from millennium auto on here. It was $1800 and included almost every thing minus the trans harness, sensors, pitchmount/bracket, and slave cyl. I found a donor 02 wrx and got all that stuff from it.

I will have pics of the goodies up soon.

Here is a pic of the wagon:
Its mods are:
3 angle valve grind
twe spring and retainers
new HG's
accel 8mm wires
NGK iridium plugs
Perrin LW pulley
Whiteline lateral links
04 Pink STi struts w/ black springs
some JDM goodness
215/50/16 BFG G-force sport A/S tires
05 OBS Enkei wheels
07 WRX 4 pot front brakes
07 WRX 2 pot rear brakes w/ hub conversion
Goodridge SS lines
2.5" straight pipe exhaust (no cats)

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Last edited by iluvdrt; 09-20-2010 at 03:13 PM.
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Old 04-10-2010, 05:48 AM   #2
Jonathan
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I *think* you will need to use the manual drive shaft from the sedan. If you were swapping in a 6 speed with DCCD then you would most likely be able to use your current auto drive shaft.
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Old 04-10-2010, 07:51 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
I *think* you will need to use the manual drive shaft from the sedan. If you were swapping in a 6 speed with DCCD then you would most likely be able to use your current auto drive shaft.
That is what I thought. If any of them are to short though there is a nice drive shaft shop down the street, I can have it extended there.
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Old 04-10-2010, 01:16 PM   #4
Dan Cech
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The manual driveshaft from the sedan will work fine, all manual BD/G/K driveshafts are the same part (sedan/wagon/outback 2.2/2.5 all the same - 27031AC080).

All auto driveshafts for the BD/G/K are also the same (27031AC010).

The 5-speed driveshaft will work with any 5-speed box, for the 6-speed you need to use the auto driveshaft.
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Old 04-10-2010, 03:43 PM   #5
Aaron8992
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i'd love to see how it turns out, i was hoping to do this to my outback someday.


good luck
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Old 04-10-2010, 09:09 PM   #6
iluvdrt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Cech View Post
The manual driveshaft from the sedan will work fine, all manual BD/G/K driveshafts are the same part (sedan/wagon/outback 2.2/2.5 all the same - 27031AC080).

All auto driveshafts for the BD/G/K are also the same (27031AC010).

The 5-speed driveshaft will work with any 5-speed box, for the 6-speed you need to use the auto driveshaft.
Awesome!! Thanks.
Pics below!!
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Old 04-10-2010, 09:15 PM   #7
iluvdrt
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Here are the goods.

2005 wrx trans rebuilt by Millenium.
2005 rear diff
pedals and lots of other stuff.







and the shop

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Old 04-12-2010, 08:27 PM   #8
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Got the rear diff out, as well as the drive shaft, all 4 axles, exhaust, and heat sheild. Tom I will take out the trans and load some pics.
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Old 04-18-2010, 08:43 AM   #9
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Made some nice progress this weekend.

5 spd trans is in. Removed the auto and flex plate from the engine. Installed new 2 peice flywheel with exedy stage 2 clutch.

The only problem with using the 05 trans is the bell housing had 6 bolts (vs 4 from the 98). I took a 12mm bolt and made a 4" long stud. I then tapped the lower starter hole in the 5 spd trans with a 12mm 1.5 tap. I didn't tap all the way through the trans so my stud would have a stopping point. Then, I inserted the stud with some loctite on it into the trans. I had to drill the hole in the starter a little larger to fit over the stud, but everything is good now. Some people drill and tap the block, but I thought this was easier and since the auto is set up this way, it is proven to work.

The pedals were a PITA. You have to remove pretty much everything from under the dash. I didn't disconnect anything, but just unbolted and tied up out of the way. The new pedal box is a lot bigger then just the old brake pedal. The clutch portion of the box fits through the holes in the firewall where that black plug is next to the brake master cyl. The clutch master cyl bolts to that. replace all electrical stuff in a new home under the dash.

Manual trans went in like butter. SOO much more room under the car now. The auto is gigantic and I should be saving about 100-150 lbs from this swap as well. The bolt holes for the x member are by the control arm bracket. They had rubber plugs in them. These are a fine thread. 12x1.75. I used 30mm long bolts with a large washer on them. The two holes f or the shifter assy are also plugged up by where the shifter is. They are standard 8mm x 1.50 IIRC.

I used sedan axles. The 05 axles have exciter rings on them for the ABS. Our cars have a diff set up. These rings on the axle have to be removed. A punch and hammer makes quick work of that though. The reinsert into the car as normal.

The wiring was a little tricky. The 4 eat has 100x87597657 wires going to it. You only need 4. 2 for reverse, and 2 for neutral safety. There are also 2 wires that come off of the little switch on the shifter that allow you to get your keys out and I have heard turn on the fuel pump.

The 4 wires you need come off of the trans inhibitor switch selector harness. I used the factory pig tail tail and cut all the wires off of it except the 4 I need. This makes for a cleaner install and you can still unplug the trans from the harness. The pin numbers are 9-12 (9, 10, 11, 12) on the harness side of that plug.

9, and 10 are for the reverse lights. Plug them into the 5 spd reverse switch on the trans. It is the white switch at the back of the trans. There is a black switch on the trans as well, but we dont need it. IDK what it does. Mine must be bad because even w/ a mutimeter I couldnt get continuity out of it. I let it hang.

11 and 12 are for the Neutral Safety switch. I plugged them into the clutch pedal switch. There are 2 switches on the clutch pedal. The bottom switch is for cruise control dis engagement. You dont need to use that one. The top one is the NS switch. When you puch the clutch pedal down it closes the switch and completes the circut. Clutch is out circut is open and cruise works.

Use your old vehicle speed sensor. The newer VSS's have 3 prongs. Ours only have 2. They look diff but are a direct swap. You will have to extend the harness a bit to make it reach. Also, there is a little metal peice that goes inside of the VSS. Ensure this swaps over with the sensor. It falls out of the switch very easy.

My auto driveshaft is too short and so was the sedan 5 spd drive shaft. I am thinking I need a wagon drive shaft, or have mine extended. Ill post pics in a minute.
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Old 04-18-2010, 09:28 AM   #10
iluvdrt
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Here is the bolt I made into a stud for the starter.



Trans is in



This is the bolt hole by the control arm for the x member



Here is wiring harness part you use. The 4 wires come from this plug.



The black wires are the NS switch. I routed them through the speedo cable hole to the pedal.



Here is the NS switch on the clutch pedal. It is the black wires with elec tape.



Here is the speed sensor switched over from the auto.



The little black switch on the shifter is what you need to splice together. This lets your key out. I have heard it also closes the relay for your fuel pump.

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Old 04-18-2010, 09:31 AM   #11
iluvdrt
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Here is the pedals w/ everything tucked up



interior shots:





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Old 04-18-2010, 09:49 AM   #12
iluvdrt
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Here is the wiring schematic from the FSM. I have added notes.

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Old 04-30-2010, 03:49 PM   #13
iluvdrt
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OK so updates:


Got the slave cyl installed. I had to use a hard line because noone sells a metric banjo bolt. I hope it doesnt break. Ill try to get a nice stainless line soon. I bled the clutch with a one man bleeder. It was SOOO easy and only took a few minutes. I highly rec getting one. It was $6 at Napa.



You just fill up the clutch master cyl, break the bleeder loose, and pump the pedal until no more air bubbles are in the clear line. Leave the pedal down, close the bleeder screw and pump it up. Done. Takes 5 min.

Installed the starter. The homemade starter stud worked like a champ.
I finished installing the intake plumbing and pitchmount assy as well. The top of the car is DONE.

I started her up and I did get a CEL. P1702. Basically it wants to know where the auto is. I told it it was on a pallett, but it didnt listen. I got the FSM out and with a little research found out that all ECM's for auto's and sticks are the same. There is an identifier pin you have to have to ground out to tell the car it is no longer and auto. Ill do that tonight and she should be all ready for the driveshaft to get here.

I finally found a driveshaft. The ONLY one that fits a lego or outback wagon is a lego or outback wagon 5 spd driveshaft. This is the 3rd driveshaft I have based on the rec's of fellow NASIOC'ers. But it should be here very soon. That is all that is left.
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Old 05-01-2010, 08:14 PM   #14
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Wow...you kinda make it sound easy.
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Old 05-01-2010, 10:54 PM   #15
Frogsthatmoo
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^ Funny, I was thinking the exact same thing. Half way through reading it I was like "Hmm, maybe I should just do this..."
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Old 05-02-2010, 09:01 AM   #16
iluvdrt
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Mechanically it is very easy. Everything bolts right up. The wires were a little tricky, but that was because I didnt have a diagram for awhile.

The hardest part for me was getting the pedal box in the car. There are a lot of wires under there, and the 5 spd pedal box is huge. I even used the auto console, and the shifter fits perfect in the hole.
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Old 05-02-2010, 11:36 AM   #17
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That's what she said.

I really might have to consider this...maybe i can do it when I eventually swap in a fresher motor...175k now
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Old 05-02-2010, 05:12 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perdue View Post
That's what she said.

I really might have to consider this...maybe i can do it when I eventually swap in a fresher motor...175k now
LOL, I did my swap at 206K on the original motor.
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Old 07-10-2010, 03:19 PM   #19
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Ok my entire 4EAT to 5MT swap is done with the exception of one thing... I cannot get my speedo to work. I have tried everything. My car is an 02 bugeye. The tranny I put in is a 5MT out of an 04 WRX. I bought a brandy new VSS for a 98 leggy because it is 2 pin. I've been though every diagram imaginable.. Please help guys =(
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Old 07-11-2010, 08:33 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by degrayb View Post
Ok my entire 4EAT to 5MT swap is done with the exception of one thing... I cannot get my speedo to work. I have tried everything. My car is an 02 bugeye. The tranny I put in is a 5MT out of an 04 WRX. I bought a brandy new VSS for a 98 leggy because it is 2 pin. I've been though every diagram imaginable.. Please help guys =(
Use the VSS out of the auto and put it into the manual. Might have to extend the wires a bit. IIRC wrx's use a 3 pin VSS and if that is true then a 2 pin is not going to help you.

Also make sure when you install the VSS the little metal tab thing inside of it dont fall out.
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Old 07-12-2010, 06:08 PM   #21
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gosh. this does seem so easy. I want a 5mt so bad. worst mistake I ever made was getting a 4eat.
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Old 09-20-2010, 03:22 PM   #22
iluvdrt
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So basically after the swap I had a few problems with electrical componets.

-fuel gauge would not work with car off and read 1/4 tank low

P0130 O2 sensor fault
P1507 IAC fault
P1101 NSS fault

Stumbling when taking off, bogging down when I rev matched my shifts, poor fuel milage, stalling. So I went back to the drawing board.

I traced all the O2 sensor wires and they appeared good. I wasn't getting voltage from the ecu though and it wouldnt go to closed loop.

I saw a TSB for the 1507 and 1101 codes and how they were related, so I started with those two to try and get rid of the two codes first.

Looking at the ecu pin outs the NSS is on pin 82 which is pin 12 (blue w/red) on the auto tranny inhibitor switch (also used to start the car). The way I see it, is

Pin 12 on the inhibitor switch comes from pin 82 on the ecu and is hot from the ign switch on the auto (blue w/red) . The ecu its self also produces 5v from the same pin.

Pin 11 on the inhibitor switch goes to pin 86 on the ECU and is used to energize the starter (yellow w/ black).

Currently, these two wires are spliced together so the car will start..like it was in N or P.

I was thinking pin 12 on the inhibitor switch (the blue w/red) would also need to go to the NSS then to ground so that whenever the car is in gear it is grounded....BUT...
the start circut is intertwined with the NSS circut on my car from the factory, so basically, when the car starts (with the auto), the ecu knows it is in N. When you put it into gear, it knows it is now in D.

All I had to do was find the jumper wire between those 2 circuts which were at pin 82 on my ecu. I cut the ign switch wire off of the NSS wire (basically cut the wire coming off pin 82 on the ecu in half). I ran the NSS wire (the one coming from the ecu) to my switch then to a ground. The ign wire (the left over from the cutting) I just capped off by the ecu ( this was the jumper wire. it has no voltage now).

I ran wires 11 and 12 from the auto harness to my clutch pedal so the car will only start with the pedal down, like I did originally.

Now the cruise works, and the car stays in closed loop while driving (it used to just stay in open). My fuel gauge works now, and my O2 sensor code (P0130) is gone as well. I can watch the voltage from the O2 and it is perfect.

The car runs great now, no more bogging to rev match and stuttering when taking off. It's like a new car.

So in short, this little endevor fixed all the problems at once. In a nut shell the NSS (neutral posiiton switch) tells the ecu when it is in gear and when it is N. The ecu will not go closed loop if it thinks it is in N, and it will try to control the idle (rpms) when you are driving (the ecu doesn't know you are driving because it is stuck in N, hence the P1507 and P0130 codes). Because the fuel gauge shares the same ground circut as the NSS, when the car was off the voltage going to the fuel sending unit was instead sent to ground instead of the unit it's self because of the factory jumper. Once the jumper is removed all the circuts are isolated again.

Last edited by iluvdrt; 09-20-2010 at 03:32 PM.
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Old 09-21-2010, 09:08 AM   #23
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Very nice work. How much of this do you think is applicable rolling into new Impreza models? (By newer I mean 02-up)
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Old 10-28-2010, 01:49 AM   #24
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what switch did you wire it to after you cut it
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Old 10-31-2010, 12:32 PM   #25
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Quote:
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Very nice work. How much of this do you think is applicable rolling into new Impreza models? (By newer I mean 02-up)
Probably not much electrically, but mechanically it is the same.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ditto151 View Post
what switch did you wire it to after you cut it
The clutch pedal switch wires into the auto trans harness where neutral circut is.

The NS switch wires into an ecu ground, and the ecu side of the wire I cut. The portion of the engine harness I cut I just capped off and left it alone. It is a ground anyways.

Hard to explain.
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