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Old 09-06-2012, 01:05 PM   #26
KartRacer3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkL View Post
So are you going to switch another drop in air filter?
Maybe once I get to about 60k miles (currently at 29k) I'll go with this one: http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Cosw...8-2011-WRX-STI
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Old 09-06-2012, 01:12 PM   #27
uspopo
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Hhhmmm, I did see the Cosworth filter also. Very interesting.....
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Old 09-06-2012, 11:53 PM   #28
generationfourth
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I have a K&N, I recently re-oiled it 10k miles ago. Then my TB got really dirty and caused my car to not idle and stall out. I'm going back to regular filters...
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Old 09-07-2012, 02:16 AM   #29
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I've had no issue with the K&N drop in, its been on the car for about 9 months. I've cleaned and re oiled it a few times and have checked the MAF each time and its not throwing oil every were, you just have to be smart when oiling the filter. I picked up 2 MPG and like Kartracer said you can hear the car breath better.
How many miles do you drive before you clean the filter? I guess cleaning it more often than what K&N recommends doesn't hurt.
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Old 09-07-2012, 02:45 AM   #30
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I have always cleaned mine every other oil change, so every 4K to 5K its been nearly black every time. Lots of dirt in the AZ air and a lot of dust storms this year. Google search Phoenix & haboob (not a joke) its a massive dust storm.
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Old 09-08-2012, 11:12 AM   #31
rebornr1
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Its hard to beat a good quality paper filter and foam pre filter.

Not trying to start a K&N war here but when I worked as a tech, I have personally seen them where the cotton guaze thinned out so bad you
mostly just had metal mesh left.
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Old 09-08-2012, 11:40 AM   #32
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I used K&N oiled cotton filters on two different cars, for several years. BOTH cars had grit downstream of the filter. Both filters were regularly cleaned and reoiled.

Don't use them if you care about engine longevity.


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Old 09-09-2012, 09:27 PM   #33
Outlaw57
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Gents,
I have been a tibilogist for over 25 years and the only thing I will say is look at/research the absolute micron filtering level of any filter you want to buy, if you cannot find the absolute measurement of that specific air/oil filter then you should not consider it as a matter of protection and longevity of your investment and stay with the factory item(s) oil or air.
I use only Amsoil air filter, engine oil filter, engine oil, front and rear differential gear oil and automatic transmission (ATF) oil in this and every single vehicle I have owned new or used since 1984 with outstanding results for wear resistance and improved mileage. I have been a part of four different racing circles, NHRA, Alberta Outlaw Modified, Sprint Car and IHRA Alcohol Funny Car teams and have some experience with engine, transmission and differential maintenance and rebuilds of various sorts and thru this experience and have found from practical exposure that Amsoil products in fact do what they claim to do and that is protect the vital moving parts of those costly engines, differentials and transmissions that are at the heart of your specific vehicle. As this generation, post 1980, considers itself to be of the information generation it should be your first task to check out what the folks in the marketing realms are spewing at you to be fact or fiction. You guys think that you are so smart with your electronic devices/ internet yet you fail to use the tool as it was intended. You fellas should be much smarter than my generation, born before 1958 let us say for laughs, and be on top of everything that pertains to one of your most highly regarded investments, your beloved Subaru. I challange all of you who read this reply to find an air/oil filter that out performs the standard Amsoil air and oil filters in ASTM testing procedures. Let me know what you can verify scientifically.

Regards,

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Old 09-10-2012, 12:58 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Outlaw57 View Post
Gents,
I have been a tibilogist for over 25 years I challange all of you who read this reply to find an air/oil filter that out performs the standard Amsoil air and oil filters in ASTM testing procedures. Let me know what you can verify scientifically.

Regards,
Outlaw57
I appreciate the response, however if the things you say are true than would you mind posting up some pictures and/or graphs of your scientific evidence over your years of experience?
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Old 09-10-2012, 07:51 AM   #35
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Default K&N Drop in air filter.

KartRacer3,
Since I am quite new on the NASIOC scene I am not permitted to post charts, graphs, etc. so the easiest way to find the scientific evidence is to go to the Amsoil site and start looking at the many years of testing Amsoil has conducted on not only their products but on how they compare to other products per the ASTM testing methodologies for that product.
I dare say that you will be very busy reading for a long time to take in all that they have done. I personally have NOT covered all that they have tested as the volume of testing results is quite staggering. Have fun and get ready to be surprised with the results.

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Old 09-10-2012, 10:53 AM   #36
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They outlawed punctuation and paragraphs in Alberta? Btw, you can post links to images.

Seriously.. drop in a generic paper filter. If you want to keep peak ncrease airflow, and can *feel* the extra 0.12986 hp, change it every time you change your bedsheets.
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:02 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subiTWO View Post
I used K&N oiled cotton filters on two different cars, for several years. BOTH cars had grit downstream of the filter. Both filters were regularly cleaned and reoiled.

Don't use them if you care about engine longevity.


Hopefully I've have time to install my CAI/SRI soon, my K&N drop in air filter has only been in my car for like 6 months, so hopefully everything is still fine.
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:40 PM   #38
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Default K&N vs. Cosworth

Referencing the earlier poster who mentioned the Cosworth filter: Does anyone have any experience with that (dry) filter vs. the K&N oiled filter? I didn't see any responses anywhere in my search so I was curious. Would love to stick with a dry filter and wondered if it was worth the money to even go with the Cosworth.
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:09 PM   #39
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Dry filter? Paper......

This dead horse has been beaten so hard it's unrecognisable

Last edited by NH8991; 12-09-2012 at 05:17 PM.
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:57 PM   #40
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Well, that tells me nothing about the Cosworth filter (how it performs, how it is maintained, if it's even worth looking at versus a paper filter). Since no one has responded with any input specifically about this filter, I can't see how the 'horse has been beaten'. Thanks though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NH8991 View Post
Dry filter? Paper......

This dead horse has been beaten so hard it's unrecognisable
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:33 PM   #41
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just go to your subaru dealer and get a filter for $13 and be done. you are over thinking this. I have spent too much time asking the same question then I did a lot of reading and asking of my father who is a certified master mechanic through GM and is a BOEING mechanic.
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:58 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by generationfourth View Post
I have a K&N, I recently re-oiled it 10k miles ago. Then my TB got really dirty and caused my car to not idle and stall out. I'm going back to regular filters...
^over oiling is also a common cause of MAF failure, doesn't take much to coat the filament.

To be honest if you are hunting for power in filter swaps you are wasting your time. Run the stock paper filter....
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:20 AM   #43
NH8991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassClefB View Post
Well, that tells me nothing about the Cosworth filter (how it performs, how it is maintained, if it's even worth looking at versus a paper filter). Since no one has responded with any input specifically about this filter, I can't see how the 'horse has been beaten'. Thanks though.
Good point, however, unless Cosworth (and I have the utmost respect for them, I spent my youth around Ford Sierra & Escort Cossies) have somehow developed a filter that somehow massively accelerates the air through the filter media whilst filtering better than the OEM offering, it is probably not worth it, especially on an N/A build. As is often said, if paper is good enough for a 300hp forced induction motor......

Saying this, i'm all for more information on new products.
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Old 12-11-2012, 12:41 AM   #44
lucasmaroni
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I put a K&N in my 98 outback and was not at all impressed with it. Didn't notice any difference, from this and other things I've read K&N filters seem overrated to me.
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:09 AM   #45
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I had the drop-in K&N filter installed on my 2.5i for about 50k miles. Cleaned it and re-oil it 3 times (15k intervals). I checked my MAF sensor at about 40k, only to find it was filthy. I cleaned it with MAF sensor cleaner and re-installed. Checked it again 10k miles later to find it just as dirty as the last time I cleaned it. After that, I ditched the K&N in favor of purolator classic paper filters, and have been running them ever since (its been about 45K miles since I made the switch). Checked my MAF sensor the other day, and its as clean as a whistle.
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