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Old 10-04-2009, 09:30 AM   #1601
oreos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opiumized View Post
I just wanted to comment on a few things. I work for a well known repair facility, so I see a lot of vehicles and situations.

The first thing I want to say is: Never purchase and extended warranty from a company outside of the dealership. Most people fail to read the fine print in most cases. I have to sit on the phone with these people ALL the time, and it's always the same thing. Almost everything is rejected. First off, they will not pay diagnostic fees for the most part until after you've diagnosed it and found out that (99% of the time) the situation is not covered. They tend to cover all sorts of things, but when you read the fine print you realize they only cover those things in the event of a pure failure on that part. Anything you would see that would normally lead to the failure of the part is not covered. They were smart when they typed those up. They pretty much never cover anything gasket related, so usually from pistons, to a blown head, they never cover anything. Do not buy them. They are a scam. You're better off just getting things fixed than handing them 2 or 3 grand and still having to pay yourself.

Secondly, almost no tire manufacturer covers OE tires. Original Equipment tires on new cars are low rolling resistance tires for the most part. They are made so the vehicle manufacturer can say "this vehice gets X mpg." They are not as good as the next set you'll get, so if you have Michelins that are purely an OE set, chances are your next set of Michy's will be very good as long as you don't replace them with the overly expensive same tires. For your WRX I suggest a Bridgestone or Dunlop, anyway.

Third, somewhere at the beginning of this thread in 2002 (so this has probably been brought up already but I can't read 7 years worth of posts), someone mentioned his steering wheel being cocked and how they wouldn't cover it under warranty. He also said it wore his tires out, so it falls under my second point. Cover it? Of course not. That's your alignment. The second you leave a parking lot you can hit a pot hole, lose your alignment, and there's no reason it is, should, or will be covered. That's your driving. Suggestion would be to find a place that will do a Lifetime alignment option for your vehicle, pay the 100-200 bucks, and bring it in every 3 months and get the thing aligned. If the alignment is off because of a front end part, you'll have to take it up with the dealer (or warranty company lol yea right). However, most things such as tie rod ends, sway bar links, struts, etc. are not going to be covered due to wear. Only due to defect, which will be hard to prove once you have thousands of miles on the car (and honestly it probably wasn't a defect anyway). Also, any normal tire company will not cover a tire worn due to alignment or a front end part because that it not the fault of the tire at all. That's the driver's fault. You need to check your tires. Make sure the tire pressure matching the door jamb. Make sure there isn't uneven wear. If you see the beginning of uneven wear, get and alignment. Also, get a real alignment, camber, caster, and toe, front and rear, whatever your vehicle has. Going to Town Fair Tire for a front toe set isn't going to help you if your camber is off a degree. Make sure to see the alignment specs printout (ie Ask for it when you first hand over your keys).

Fourth, all vehicle manufacturers, as far up as you have to go, know that court fees will exceed doing whatever you need done. The manager at your shop may not care that much (they tend to get like 50/h or less for every 100/h labor warranteed, so even if they don't want to do it, they will if you push far enough. Sometimes you have to just keep pushing, and sometimes if you happen to know a lawyer, having him write a letter helps a lot. Even settling out of court will cost them more than fixing your car. However, depending on what mods you have and whether they affect the system having issues, they may go forward out of principal. A lawyer probably won't help in a non-dealership warranty because their fine print that you signed is ridiculous. Also, word of mouth is huge for dealerships. If they have reason to believe that you will tarnish their name on a large scale basis, it's in their best interest to fix your car.

Fifth, from what I have seen, and this may seem obvious, there are only certain times to buy turbocharged vehicles used. Never buy it off someone young. Never buy it off anyone that has done any mods to it (you may be thinking "I have mods and I treat it fine," but most people beat them up, hence dealers not looking fondly on warrantee work on a modded vehicle). Even bolt on. Because they probably beat on it. This is Subys, Evos, 350z, what have you. Sometimes that low mileage car at the dealer has a reason it's been traded in, and it's not always the economy or updating to the next year's model. Be wary. I suggest new vehicles in such situations. It's different if you're buying a Camry.

Sixth, if you go somewhere else to have your vehicle serviced, keep all your receipts and make sure they use OEM parts. Ask to see the box, or find a place that will install parts you bring them (warning, warranty on parts may disappear if you're not smart and replace everything necessary). Many places won't install customer provided parts due to liability issues, especially concerning warranty issues ("you installed these brake pads 9 months ago and now they're worn out, you did a bad job" Oh yeah? Not my problem, not my part. You buy the $22 brake pads, you suffer. You got mine for $49 and you would've had a two year warranty and it would be free labor and parts. Had to save that 30 bucks? Too bad, have a nice day). But I digress, just make sure they're OEM parts and you have evidence of when and where it was done.

My shop isn't the cheapest around, but we warranty the hell out of everything. Unlike Subaru or a car manufacturer, all warranty work comes right out of our pocket. But when something comes in because it's not functioning up to spec, or whatever it may be, you get a new one, simple as that. Maybe it'll cost me 500$, but you'll be happy and over the next few years probably spend a couple grand doing maint/fix/tires/whatever. Happy customer is repeat customer. That's all I can think of for now, sorry if it's long.
Yes. So where is your 'shop'.

Good info, good service, honesty is often hard to find. And neither the cheapest or the most expensive implies the best value.

However, unfortunately, manufacturers' warranties and their extended warranties often also have holes, and as you say, are the reason lawyers unfortunately sometimes necessary to the situation. Preferable for one to be lucky enough to find what you speak of as values in a dealer and servicers.
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Last edited by oreos; 10-04-2009 at 09:36 AM.
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Old 10-04-2009, 04:47 PM   #1602
blackfang
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opiumized View Post
Third, somewhere at the beginning of this thread in 2002 (so this has probably been brought up already but I can't read 7 years worth of posts), someone mentioned his steering wheel being cocked and how they wouldn't cover it under warranty. He also said it wore his tires out, so it falls under my second point. Cover it? Of course not. That's your alignment. The second you leave a parking lot you can hit a pot hole, lose your alignment, and there's no reason it is, should, or will be covered. That's your driving. Suggestion would be to find a place that will do a Lifetime alignment option for your vehicle, pay the 100-200 bucks, and bring it in every 3 months and get the thing aligned. If the alignment is off because of a front end part, you'll have to take it up with the dealer (or warranty company lol yea right). However, most things such as tie rod ends, sway bar links, struts, etc. are not going to be covered due to wear. Only due to defect, which will be hard to prove once you have thousands of miles on the car (and honestly it probably wasn't a defect anyway). Also, any normal tire company will not cover a tire worn due to alignment or a front end part because that it not the fault of the tire at all. That's the driver's fault. You need to check your tires. Make sure the tire pressure matching the door jamb. Make sure there isn't uneven wear. If you see the beginning of uneven wear, get and alignment. Also, get a real alignment, camber, caster, and toe, front and rear, whatever your vehicle has. Going to Town Fair Tire for a front toe set isn't going to help you if your camber is off a degree. Make sure to see the alignment specs printout (ie Ask for it when you first hand over your keys).
Nice informative post, but I need to correct some inaccurate info. Subaru will cover alignments for 3 years or 36,000 miles whichever comes first as a one time adjustment.

Also I have seen them replace the tires for the customer as well being the alignment was out and it caused her front tires to wear within 15,000 miles. I guess my FSM is an understanding guy.
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Old 10-04-2009, 07:47 PM   #1603
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackfang View Post
Nice informative post, but I need to correct some inaccurate info. Subaru will cover alignments for 3 years or 36,000 miles whichever comes first as a one time adjustment.

Also I have seen them replace the tires for the customer as well being the alignment was out and it caused her front tires to wear within 15,000 miles. I guess my FSM is an understanding guy.
Guess yours isn't the dealership that told customers that the alignment wasn't covered nor was the aftermarket kit needed to let some Suby's be aligned.
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Old 10-05-2009, 04:33 AM   #1604
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wow, thanks a ton opiumized, really good post!
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Old 10-13-2009, 03:31 PM   #1605
Jack T
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Thumbs down Do I Have a Lemon?

Hello:
First time here on the recommendation of an enthusiast. Do I have a lemon? Wish I could start a new thread, but am not allowed to do that until I have at least three responses, I guess--at least that's the message I get when I try to.

I have a 2006 naturally aspirated 2.5L Legacy Limited sedan that has had several continuing problems, one dealing with the automatic transmission, one with air conditioning and one with body squeaks and rattles. For this comment, I will only address the tranny. I will address the other two on other threads.

Since about 20,000 miles, the transmission has had delays, primarily during downshifting while slowing down to make a turn into another street or even in a parking lot. Upon slight acceleration into the turn, the delay allows the engine to rev before downshifting, and this causes a very uncomfortable jerking as the tranny shifts. The servicing dealer has been able to locate a few problems with the intake sensors, replaced them, and has reprogrammed the tranny several times. For a short time, everything works fine, but then the "automatic transmission learning" process makes the symptom reappear.

Anybody out there have something they could tell me to fix the problem? Thanks for your advice.

Regards,
Jack
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Old 10-13-2009, 04:29 PM   #1606
RexyGirl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack T View Post
Hello:
First time here on the recommendation of an enthusiast. Do I have a lemon? Wish I could start a new thread, but am not allowed to do that until I have at least three responses, I guess--at least that's the message I get when I try to.

I have a 2006 naturally aspirated 2.5L Legacy Limited sedan that has had several continuing problems, one dealing with the automatic transmission, one with air conditioning and one with body squeaks and rattles. For this comment, I will only address the tranny. I will address the other two on other threads.

Since about 20,000 miles, the transmission has had delays, primarily during downshifting while slowing down to make a turn into another street or even in a parking lot. Upon slight acceleration into the turn, the delay allows the engine to rev before downshifting, and this causes a very uncomfortable jerking as the tranny shifts. The servicing dealer has been able to locate a few problems with the intake sensors, replaced them, and has reprogrammed the tranny several times. For a short time, everything works fine, but then the "automatic transmission learning" process makes the symptom reappear.

Anybody out there have something they could tell me to fix the problem? Thanks for your advice.

Regards,
Jack

There is an ECM and TCM reprogramming available to address these concerns. I also believe they were recently updated....

The ECM update should be done at no charge to you for 8 years or 80,000 miles. The TCM update is under warranty for 5 years or 60,000 miles.

Do different people drive your vehicle?

THe slight hesitation you mention might be a characteristic of the transmission...can you elaborate a little more?
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Old 10-13-2009, 07:30 PM   #1607
Jack T
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RexyGirl:
You are right on my trail of messages. Thank you.

Reprogramming--TCM for Transmission Control Module? The last time the "automatic transmission Learning Procedure" A383-108 MFC 43 0.5 was done was in April '09 at 48K miles. The car now has 56K, but the symptoms have been showing up again for about 5K miles. The previous reprogramming was at 34K.

I don't have any record of updating the ECM. Can you give me a service bulletin reference for this, or even some descriptive words that might help the dealer find it?

Who Drives?--I drive the car about 99% of the time.

Hesitation--Hard to explain, but as I said, the dealer has been able to duplicate it and has documented it on the service report. Let's say, I am approaching an aisle in a parking lot, slowing down. As I get into the turn and begin going straight, I will accelerate just slightly. As I do so, the engine speeds up and then the tranny downshifts, causing a sudden jerk. This same thing happens when approaching a cross street while preparing to make a turn without stopping. It is even worse if the approach is slightly downhill. Hope that helps.

Please note that at first diagnosis at 32K miles, the technician read fault codes for Air Flow Meter and Air Intake temp Sensor, codes P0102, P0113. Parts were ordered, and I believe replaced, but I don't have a copy of the invoice reporting that. No codes were found stored at the 48K service.

Regards,
Jack
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Old 10-28-2009, 07:39 PM   #1608
Bryanwrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opiumized View Post
I just wanted to comment on a few things. I work for a well known repair facility, so I see a lot of vehicles and situations......

My shop isn't the cheapest around, but we warranty the hell out of everything. Unlike Subaru or a car manufacturer, all warranty work comes right out of our pocket. But when something comes in because it's not functioning up to spec, or whatever it may be, you get a new one, simple as that. Maybe it'll cost me 500$, but you'll be happy and over the next few years probably spend a couple grand doing maint/fix/tires/whatever. Happy customer is repeat customer. That's all I can think of for now, sorry if it's long.
We follow the same idea in our shop (car technicians, not mechanics). Int eh end we get them back as customers. |They are customers for life and the money comes around again. It is also worth it to put a smile on their face. Finally, they tell others....hence our shop has been slammed for years now

If these shops would only warranty this work and be a bit more lenient, they would see how many return customers they will get! word travels very fast, and very very very fast when it's negative.
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Old 11-15-2009, 03:34 PM   #1609
Pieter1
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Default Rear Differential

Hi have an 06 WRX Sports Wagon, but I have endless hasseles with the reardif, proviouse wagon also 06 WRX same thing. Do you have same issues in the States or any other places in world. This car has been a knight mare the crapest car I have ever owned. I have had 14 Subaru's up to now but this one is the only one that has given me trouble. If I had to start you will not beleave me, going to give it back to the Subaru dealer that sold it to me.
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Old 11-15-2009, 08:36 PM   #1610
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From what I've heard about Subys (I'm a recent owner, 09 wrx), differential services are very important (so is timing belt). Front and rear diff should be done every 20k miles as preventative maintenance. Some may call that overkill, but it's better to do it than regret it later. I'm not sure if they tend to have differential seals or just "the right stuff" style bonding. You'd have to call your dealer with your VIN. This may not help you, sorry. If you can't rely on your dealer, take it somewhere else, like a performance shop or even a local mom and pop if they've been around for a while and have people working there that are both 24ish and 40ish. You can sometimes talk to them and see who knows what about newer vehicles and see if one will take a ride with you.
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Old 11-17-2009, 10:10 AM   #1611
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Well im going to try to make a long story short. Back in June I got a 09 WRX that ended up having the engine blow at 1k miles. Subaru ended up getting me a new car through the dealership. They did it as a trade in and made up the difference. The problem is I had the first car for 2 weeks and never paid taxes. Well I just found out that the title is in my name still and to get it from the title co. someone needs to pay taxes.. I've paid taxes on my 2nd car and the new owner has already paid taxes also. Subaru is checking today to see if there is anything they can do on this.
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Old 11-17-2009, 02:29 PM   #1612
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opiumized View Post
I just wanted to comment on a few things. I work for a well known repair facility, so I see a lot of vehicles and situations.

The first thing I want to say is: Never purchase and extended warranty from a company outside of the dealership. Most people fail to read the fine print in most cases. I have to sit on the phone with these people ALL the time, and it's always the same thing. Almost everything is rejected. First off, they will not pay diagnostic fees for the most part until after you've diagnosed it and found out that (99% of the time) the situation is not covered. They tend to cover all sorts of things, but when you read the fine print you realize they only cover those things in the event of a pure failure on that part. Anything you would see that would normally lead to the failure of the part is not covered. They were smart when they typed those up. They pretty much never cover anything gasket related, so usually from pistons, to a blown head, they never cover anything. Do not buy them. They are a scam. You're better off just getting things fixed than handing them 2 or 3 grand and still having to pay yourself.

Secondly, almost no tire manufacturer covers OE tires. Original Equipment tires on new cars are low rolling resistance tires for the most part. They are made so the vehicle manufacturer can say "this vehice gets X mpg." They are not as good as the next set you'll get, so if you have Michelins that are purely an OE set, chances are your next set of Michy's will be very good as long as you don't replace them with the overly expensive same tires. For your WRX I suggest a Bridgestone or Dunlop, anyway.

Third, somewhere at the beginning of this thread in 2002 (so this has probably been brought up already but I can't read 7 years worth of posts), someone mentioned his steering wheel being cocked and how they wouldn't cover it under warranty. He also said it wore his tires out, so it falls under my second point. Cover it? Of course not. That's your alignment. The second you leave a parking lot you can hit a pot hole, lose your alignment, and there's no reason it is, should, or will be covered. That's your driving. Suggestion would be to find a place that will do a Lifetime alignment option for your vehicle, pay the 100-200 bucks, and bring it in every 3 months and get the thing aligned. If the alignment is off because of a front end part, you'll have to take it up with the dealer (or warranty company lol yea right). However, most things such as tie rod ends, sway bar links, struts, etc. are not going to be covered due to wear. Only due to defect, which will be hard to prove once you have thousands of miles on the car (and honestly it probably wasn't a defect anyway). Also, any normal tire company will not cover a tire worn due to alignment or a front end part because that it not the fault of the tire at all. That's the driver's fault. You need to check your tires. Make sure the tire pressure matching the door jamb. Make sure there isn't uneven wear. If you see the beginning of uneven wear, get and alignment. Also, get a real alignment, camber, caster, and toe, front and rear, whatever your vehicle has. Going to Town Fair Tire for a front toe set isn't going to help you if your camber is off a degree. Make sure to see the alignment specs printout (ie Ask for it when you first hand over your keys).

Fourth, all vehicle manufacturers, as far up as you have to go, know that court fees will exceed doing whatever you need done. The manager at your shop may not care that much (they tend to get like 50/h or less for every 100/h labor warranteed, so even if they don't want to do it, they will if you push far enough. Sometimes you have to just keep pushing, and sometimes if you happen to know a lawyer, having him write a letter helps a lot. Even settling out of court will cost them more than fixing your car. However, depending on what mods you have and whether they affect the system having issues, they may go forward out of principal. A lawyer probably won't help in a non-dealership warranty because their fine print that you signed is ridiculous. Also, word of mouth is huge for dealerships. If they have reason to believe that you will tarnish their name on a large scale basis, it's in their best interest to fix your car.

Fifth, from what I have seen, and this may seem obvious, there are only certain times to buy turbocharged vehicles used. Never buy it off someone young. Never buy it off anyone that has done any mods to it (you may be thinking "I have mods and I treat it fine," but most people beat them up, hence dealers not looking fondly on warrantee work on a modded vehicle). Even bolt on. Because they probably beat on it. This is Subys, Evos, 350z, what have you. Sometimes that low mileage car at the dealer has a reason it's been traded in, and it's not always the economy or updating to the next year's model. Be wary. I suggest new vehicles in such situations. It's different if you're buying a Camry.

Sixth, if you go somewhere else to have your vehicle serviced, keep all your receipts and make sure they use OEM parts. Ask to see the box, or find a place that will install parts you bring them (warning, warranty on parts may disappear if you're not smart and replace everything necessary). Many places won't install customer provided parts due to liability issues, especially concerning warranty issues ("you installed these brake pads 9 months ago and now they're worn out, you did a bad job" Oh yeah? Not my problem, not my part. You buy the $22 brake pads, you suffer. You got mine for $49 and you would've had a two year warranty and it would be free labor and parts. Had to save that 30 bucks? Too bad, have a nice day). But I digress, just make sure they're OEM parts and you have evidence of when and where it was done.

My shop isn't the cheapest around, but we warranty the hell out of everything. Unlike Subaru or a car manufacturer, all warranty work comes right out of our pocket. But when something comes in because it's not functioning up to spec, or whatever it may be, you get a new one, simple as that. Maybe it'll cost me 500$, but you'll be happy and over the next few years probably spend a couple grand doing maint/fix/tires/whatever. Happy customer is repeat customer. That's all I can think of for now, sorry if it's long.
Wow, some useful info.... a little misinformation... I'll put my 2 cents in.
Extended warranties... Of course...Buyer beware. However, I work at a dealership (no longer with Subaru ) And i must say that these warranties are worth their weight in gold, If processed properly. Yes, You need to be careful with Subies... they have the reputation of being modified and driven hard, so they will always question the claim. So just tell them to send an inspector and be done with it. Most of the better warranties cover seals and gaskets... and the warranty company always has the option of sending their sourced part.

As far as warranty against customer pay... I've seen this come up quite a bit. At my last dealership (Subaru) Warranty paid $105/hr. Cust pay was $120/hr. Not much of a difference. The dealer principal can negotiate a higher $/hr with Subaru based on the local competition. And a dealer would be stupid to turn away any work in this economy, warranty or other wise.


Lastly, Document everything!!!! Be specific, date, mileage, vin.#..etc... I realize the dealer is expensive compared to local shops and most of us are DIY'ers... But always use the correct fluid, i cant stress that enough. If you're under warranty then use what they want. You can use the equivalent IN SYNTHETIC FLUIDS... WHICH IS MUCH BETTER. Did u know that most dealers will do the labor and use your fluid???? Ask them. Unless they are total jerks... which some are... They will do it for u and just charge u labor. I hope this helps clear some things up. Boy i miss my suby!!!!
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Old 11-20-2009, 09:39 PM   #1613
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These are great points. Thanks
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Old 11-24-2009, 06:31 PM   #1614
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChronicPoe View Post
Name: Justin Matthews

Make: 07 STI

Mileage: 24,903

Time Out Of Use: 16 days

Problem And Likely Cause: Smoking after idle, burning a quart of oil at least per 1000 miles

Modifications: It did have a aftermarket bov, I put the stock back on.

Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): Yes

Reason Given For Denial: Not Denied

Your Story: I made a mistake and bought it used with 15k miles. It did not smoke at idle at first, but then about 1000 k in it started to give puffs of grey smoke after idle. I have taken it in twice before and they tried to tell me it was a characteristic of the car to have some blow-by. It started to gradually burn more and more oil at random times, not specifically when I was driving at higher rpms. I then requested an oil consumption test, first 1k .5 quarts, 2k 2 quarts, 2.5k 1 quart, and at 3 k I just took it to have a justified wet/dry compression test.

To my knowledge the blowoff valve was the only modification. Each time I send my car in, they keep it for a week and then tell me nothign is wrong. I just really don't think a car should be consuming this much oil and smoking. I hope they do not try to claim it was moded since it was a used vehicle. They finally took out a head and they could not see any damage, they called the Subaru rep to see what to do next.

So they replaced the pistons, rings, turbo, and exhaust gaskets. The car still blows smoke out of the tailpipe and consumes more than 1 quart per 1k miles. The dealership told me that it would take time for the rings to seal. It has been 6k miles; there is no change in consumption. I told them this and they told me that the rep wanted me to do another consumption test. I said I would pay for a compression and leak down test since that is what the consumption test warrents. They told me that they don't do these type of test, which is silly since they are the ones that originally did the test before the rebuild. I told SoA (very calmly) that they were pushing me around. The GM told me that he spoke with the SOA guy and that they both agreed that the dealership does not have to service me because of my irate actions. LOL I have been nothing but nice to them. I did fill out a bad survey, and the GM called me to bitch me out about it, instead of trying to find out the reason i was upset with the service. I spoke with another dealer that seems much more competent and willing to fix the problem rather than saying nothing is wrong or blaming it on my driving style. Hopefully I will finally get my car where it wont burn 2 quarts of oil per 1000 miles.
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Old 12-06-2009, 01:01 AM   #1615
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3 days at the new dealership = new short block
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Old 12-06-2009, 01:20 AM   #1616
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3 days at the new dealership = new short block
Congrats -- have you driven it yet?
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Old 12-27-2009, 02:22 AM   #1617
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Bristol, CT
Vehicle:
'07 STI - Alice
Urban Gray Metallic

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Name: Cory Duksa

Make: 2007 Subaru Impreza STI

Mileage: Name: Cory Duksa

Make: 2007 Subaru Impreza STI

Mileage: 21790

Time Out Of Use: none before (1 week during repair)

Problem And Likely Cause: SOA tuning guidlines by EPA

Modifications: Stage 2 catted OTS cobb map

Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): yes, accepted (returned to stock before bringing it in)

Reason Given For Denial: -------

Your Story: Was driving, didn't feel quite as powerful, shut it off and went to bed, remote started it in the morning, got in and had a CEL, connected up my handy-dandy (notebook?) no, my AccesPort silly! haha. er-hrm, anyways, had a cylinder 4 misfire. Did a compression test and found 1-3 to be good, but cylinder 4 only put up 30psi and wouldnt hold. Returned car to stock, uninstalled my AP brought it to Harte subaru in Hartford CT, and they checked it out said they would fix it under waranty, got it back end of story. yay!


************************************************** **************

Name: Cory Duksa

Make: 2007 Subaru Impreza STI

Mileage: 22400 or so

Time Out Of Use: one day

Problem And Likely Cause: faulty/plugged injector

Modifications: STOCK

Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): yes

Reason Given For Denial: SOA HUNTS THESE BOARDS AND SAID MY WARRANTY IS VOID BECAUSE IT WAS MODDED BEFORE THE REBUILD!!

Your Story: same as the first time around, the problem must be deeper than the tuning issue as during the first 600 miles I ran the ots stage 1 to alleviate the issue... hrmm... after 600 or so miles I have the same issue.. WTF right??

I believe it to be a bad/plugged injector, talked to Mark at Harte Subaru in Hartford CT, he was arrogant right off the bat, so I got defensive back, but he said because they found posts that I modded it they are voiding all engine warranty, mind you they fixed it under warranty the first time. Car was stock and the same thing happened, but because SOA hunts these boards saw that I modded it before he rebuild they are voiding my engine warranty. Harte rebuilt it, wrong apparently, but because I modded it BEFORE they rebuilt it they are voiding my warranty AFTER the rebuild??

Last edited by qmania2; 01-06-2010 at 05:49 PM. Reason: update!
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Old 12-27-2009, 09:00 AM   #1618
peglegsteve
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Member#: 209987
Join Date: Apr 2009
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Essex, MD
Vehicle:
2009 Stage eleventy
billion WRB WRX

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^ What did the dealer do to repair the engine the first time around?
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Old 12-27-2009, 01:01 PM   #1619
qmania2
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Member#: 215369
Join Date: Jun 2009
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Bristol, CT
Vehicle:
'07 STI - Alice
Urban Gray Metallic

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Quote:
Originally Posted by peglegsteve View Post
^ What did the dealer do to repair the engine the first time around?
replaced cylinder 4s, piston and rings, and re hned the cylinder walls. apparently it wasn't good enough, or they missed something, because I gave it a perfect break in and everything.
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Old 12-29-2009, 01:11 PM   #1620
Yamaha racer
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Member#: 148322
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Crestwood, KY
Vehicle:
2007 WRX TR
Urban Grey Metalic

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Name: Rob Webb

Make: 2007 WRX TR

Mileage: 55,xxx

Time Out Of Use: 3 days so far

Problem And Likely Cause: third gear noise casued by missing teeth I think

Modifications: SPT intake, turbo back catless exhaust, turbo xs rfl, enginuity ecu tune

Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): Yes, and denied

Reason Given For Denial: Mis-use

Your Story: I was accelerating away from a traffic light casually going up through the gears and when I let the clutch out in third it was making this horrible noise but was still pulling, needless to say I quickly went to fourth and the noise went away. All the other gears are fine. I'm not going to lie I drive the car very enthusiasticly and heel-toe downshift some and have never missed engaging the clutch fully for a shift.

Contacted a dealer and they told me it would be a 6hr job @ $88 an hour. And that was just to take the tranny apart before determining if it was warrantied.

Do my mods void the drivetrain warranty?

Last edited by Yamaha racer; 03-16-2010 at 01:38 PM. Reason: Update
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Old 12-29-2009, 02:17 PM   #1621
blackfang
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Member#: 131347
Join Date: Nov 2006
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Richmond Va
Vehicle:
2007 Legacy 2.5i SE
98 Z/28, VN 900 custom

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Quote:
Originally Posted by opiumized View Post
From what I've heard about Subys (I'm a recent owner, 09 wrx), differential services are very important (so is timing belt). Front and rear diff should be done every 20k miles as preventative maintenance. Some may call that overkill, but it's better to do it than regret it later.
I just saw this disagree with the above statement. The only requirements for differential fluids are inspections. However, Subaru states they should be changed every 15,000 miles in severe service. I feel that is overkill and there is no need for it every 15k miles. Every 45k may be more of a better interval but honestly, it can go longer. Is it recommended? No, but it sure doesn't need to be done at 15k, let alone 20 or 30k miles. I didn't even change my fluid until 45k
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Old 12-29-2009, 02:33 PM   #1622
Kean
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Member#: 25187
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: So. CA
Vehicle:
'08 Foz Prem TGM
'10 Challenger R/T Blk

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yamaha racer View Post
Do my mods void the drivetrain warranty?
....no, but they can hamper your efforts to get your claim approved considering they are relevant to the affected component(s).
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Old 01-05-2010, 12:48 PM   #1623
TMBUSMC
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Member#: 230336
Join Date: Nov 2009
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Walnut, CA
Vehicle:
2007 Limited WRX
Urban Metallic Gray

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Name: Thomas Brackett

Make: 07 WRX Limited

Mileage: 38,xxx

Time out of use: two days

Problem and likely cause: clutch throwout bearing breaking, not sure who's fault. Could be mine

Mods: catback DC Sports exhaust

Submitted for warranty work: yes

Reason for denial: in the end it is not considered a part of the clutch and a wear and tear

Your Story: Not sure how to break the throwout bearing but I was doing it. When I first took the car in they told me it was covered. They did the repair a week later and didn't mention a few parts they "had to install." I made them pay for those Then after the repair was completed they called me up and said Subaru says the throwout bearing is not under powertrain warranty. Therefore we need to bill you for the repair. Lets just say **** has hit the fan and I am not too sure what to do now.
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Old 01-05-2010, 02:29 PM   #1624
RexyGirl
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Member#: 63616
Join Date: Jun 2004
Chapter/Region: South East
Vehicle:
1996 Volvo 850 Turbo
with mods :)

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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMBUSMC View Post
Name: Thomas Brackett

Make: 07 WRX Limited

Mileage: 38,xxx

Time out of use: two days

Problem and likely cause: clutch throwout bearing breaking, not sure who's fault. Could be mine

Mods: catback DC Sports exhaust

Submitted for warranty work: yes

Reason for denial: in the end it is not considered a part of the clutch and a wear and tear

Your Story: Not sure how to break the throwout bearing but I was doing it. When I first took the car in they told me it was covered. They did the repair a week later and didn't mention a few parts they "had to install." I made them pay for those Then after the repair was completed they called me up and said Subaru says the throwout bearing is not under powertrain warranty. Therefore we need to bill you for the repair. Lets just say **** has hit the fan and I am not too sure what to do now.
They are correct that the bearing is not part of the powertrain warranty (which they should have known), the only part of the clutch covered under the PT warranty is the flywheel (but not if you are replacing it as part of a clutch repair...it has to fail) but they cannot make you pay now, considering you signed that the repair was being done at no charge to you.

Something happened where they thought they could get the repair covered. Maybe they thought you were under mileage when you made the appointment, or maybe they tried to goodwill the repair and subaru declined it, but either way, you should not pay for their mistake.
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Old 01-05-2010, 02:29 PM   #1625
oreos
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Member#: 184380
Join Date: Jul 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMBUSMC View Post
Name: Thomas Brackett

Make: 07 WRX Limited

Mileage: 38,xxx

Time out of use: two days

Problem and likely cause: clutch throwout bearing breaking, not sure who's fault. Could be mine

Mods: catback DC Sports exhaust

Submitted for warranty work: yes

Reason for denial: in the end it is not considered a part of the clutch and a wear and tear

Your Story: Not sure how to break the throwout bearing but I was doing it. When I first took the car in they told me it was covered. They did the repair a week later and didn't mention a few parts they "had to install." I made them pay for those Then after the repair was completed they called me up and said Subaru says the throwout bearing is not under powertrain warranty. Therefore we need to bill you for the repair. Lets just say **** has hit the fan and I am not too sure what to do now.
Look at your receipt and your state law. Often you must authorize the amount for repairs and there are limits on what you else you could be charged. Effectively, you may have a contract. Review what was said and written at the times of your interactions with the shop.
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