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Old 04-23-2013, 10:59 AM   #2401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thescreensavers View Post
Name: Danny

Make: 2013 WRX

Mileage: 11,500

Time Out Of Use: None yet, just dealer visits.

Problem And Likely Cause: Defect, either bolt or threads.

Modifications: Group N Trans Mount

Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): Possibly

Reason Given For Denial: - Waiting for response

Your Story:

I installed the Group-N Trans Mount for my WRX

All went well except one of the 17mm Bolts never torqued down It just keeps spinning.

Dealer Visits(1 hour away)
1.Went to the dealer, they ordered a new bolt
2. They could not remove the bolt(Just spins), and they think the threads are tacked in from the factory and the welds broke so its just spinning.

They are going to contact their SOA Rep and let me know..

The Service guy is a fellow club member so he is cool and he is cautious of involving SOA but I think thats what we have to do next.

But I am worried about this, I did nothing wrong it just never tightened down, defective threads and or Bolt.

I am getting knocking noise everytime I start my car and over quick bumps.

I dont think Subaru tack in threads, the body is physically tapped. So just have to drill it out... but I dont know.
Don't hold your breath on this one. If the bolt / threads were defective from the factory, you would not have been able to remove them to install your aftermarket mount. Factory is probably going to say your installation caused a stripped thread or crossthreaded installation, and you will be responsible for the repair.
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:10 AM   #2402
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^ The bolt did have some trouble being removed, it needed weight to unscrew but since it was going back in I never thought too much about it until it just kept spinning.

Apparently This is a problem in the GD and Legacy Chassis as well..and having to use a hole saw.. hmm
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:26 AM   #2403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thescreensavers View Post
^ The bolt did have some trouble being removed, it needed weight to unscrew but since it was going back in I never thought too much about it until it just kept spinning.

Apparently This is a problem in the GD and Legacy Chassis as well..and having to use a hole saw.. hmm
So you installed a group n trans mount and stripped the hole out? Doesn't sound like an soa issue to me. Also it isn't a problem with the chassis. I haven't stripped out or seen anyone else strip out those holes yet. I've had plenty out for clutches and some trans issues as well as a few guys around me since we can actually fix transmissions unlike most in the shop.
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:13 AM   #2404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supraru View Post
So you installed a group n trans mount and stripped the hole out? Doesn't sound like an soa issue to me. Also it isn't a problem with the chassis. I haven't stripped out or seen anyone else strip out those holes yet. I've had plenty out for clutches and some trans issues as well as a few guys around me since we can actually fix transmissions unlike most in the shop.
If its tacked in, then I guess the welds broke. I tried to torqued it to the factory service manual spec and it just keeps spinning nothing made noise and certainly does not feel like the bolt snapped. I threaded it by hand first, not my first time installing car parts. If you spin it, it gets tight then loose, so I spun it to where its the tightest and left it there.
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:05 AM   #2405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supraru View Post
So you installed a group n trans mount and stripped the hole out? Doesn't sound like an soa issue to me. Also it isn't a problem with the chassis. I haven't stripped out or seen anyone else strip out those holes yet. I've had plenty out for clutches and some trans issues as well as a few guys around me since we can actually fix transmissions unlike most in the shop.
This is a problem and the issue is with the wielded nut in the frame.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2362408
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Old 04-28-2013, 05:03 PM   #2406
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^ Thanks for the link. The bolt never fully seated before spinning(tacks broke) so thats why I am getting knocking noises on startup and such. So its not like it was torqued down and then just snapped.

It seems like drilling a hole from the top is what needs to happen, guess Ill have to remove the carpet and figure it out in the summer
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:28 PM   #2407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thescreensavers View Post
^ Thanks for the link. The bolt never fully seated before spinning(tacks broke) so thats why I am getting knocking noises on startup and such. So its not like it was torqued down and then just snapped.

It seems like drilling a hole from the top is what needs to happen, guess Ill have to remove the carpet and figure it out in the summer
Another option might be to weld the cross member on that side. I can't imagine it would require much welding to keep it secure. When it comes time to replace the clutch, cut the weld, replace clutch, reweld.

I'm not sure how one would be able to find the exact point at which to drill with something like a uni-bit.
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:43 PM   #2408
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Another possible option.

http://www.etrailer.com/tv-faq-remov...n-weldnut.aspx

By studying the rail where you're hung up, it looks like you could drill a hole in the front (nearest the halfshaft) of the rail and apply the method posted.
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Old 05-02-2013, 11:11 AM   #2409
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Bent shift fork has nothing to do with horsepower. You either shifted to rough or it was defective.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chanomatik View Post
Name: Chano Williams

Make: 2011 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited Sedan

Mileage: 34,515

Time Out Of Use: Since June 29th, 2012

Problem And Likely Cause: 3rd and 4th gear won't engage, most likely due to slipped transmission fork.

Modifications: Cobb SF Intake + Airbox, Cobb catted downpipe, Nameless Performance muffler-delete axleback exhaust, tune

Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): Yes

Reason Given For Denial: ECM is outside of Subaru's recommended parameters and could cause transmission issues.

Your Story:

Had been noticing increased notchiness when shifting into 4th gear, more than compared to my ongoing suspicions with 3rd gear. Didn't drive the car for a week since headlights were shipped to be swapped with newer ones. Headlights came back, re-installed, car was started and driven around the corner. Made it up to 3rd gear before I had to downshift at the light down the street. Turned the corner, upshifted to 3rd and engine just revved. Shifted to 4th and engine revved. Tried 3rd again, same thing happened, tried 4th again, repeat outcome. Then tried 5th and all was fine. No popping noise or grinding occurred, it's the same as when you burn the clutch and press the gas: no engagement of the gears.

Have been trying to sell the car since last summer, had all the stock parts in the trunk ready to return to stock. Decided to keep my reputation as an honest guy by not swapping back to stock after this incident.

My Conclusion: According to Subaru, the transmission cannot handle the extra horsepower from a downpipe and intake... I apologize, snarky comment is snarky, but it's annoying to not have faith in a car and to be reaffirmed as to why you lacked faith in the first place.

STI or bust. I chose bust.

Steps to Resolve: Since this is my 5th Subaru, 3rd turbocharged Subaru and I have 1 NA Subaru ordered with plans to buy Subaru 7 for a winter beater, the dealership and I are going to discuss my options with them. My brother bought his 2011 STI Limited from them last fall and my mom would like to buy the new Impreza. My friends want to get the XV Crosstrek after they've settle into their new house.

I've always been honest, I buy a lot of parts from them and my cars usually come back to them after I sell them (2001 RS coupe, 08 Forester Sports XT, and possibly this car once I sell it locally). None of the cars were ever tracked, they're all still running fine (including an 05 STi, all of them purchased by members on the forums), I've read the manuals cover to cover to know not to rest my hand on the shift knob, and I specifically stay away from the redline on the speedo since I was told that all that does is cause issues.

Best case scenario I spend about $500+ to open the center diff and have the fork replaced. I'm crossing my fingers that I don't have to get into anything else...

I'm done with turbocharged vehicles after this. High compression NA or bust.
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Old 05-02-2013, 12:19 PM   #2410
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Name: Chris

Make: 2004 WRX Premium

Mileage: About 75k at time of incident, 100k now

Time Out Of Use: Car on 2nd owner at time of incident, eldery couple was first owners, 25ish year old was second, I am now the third

Problem And Likely Cause: Age/use/wear

Modifications: None at the time, Cobb Stage 2 now

Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): Yes

Reason Given For Denial: Turbo fixed, downpipe issue denied

Your Story:
Bought the car with 94k miles in 2012. The previous owner let me know of this story when I bought it. I do not know when the claim actually happened, but this was under a SOA warranty of some sort. Apparently the turbo had leaky seals around 75k miles. This somehow allowed oil to down into the stock downpipe and damage the cat portion.

He took it to the dealer for for repair and they were initially going to remove the turbo and replace the seals. After calculating the cost, the dealer opted just to throw a new turbo on (very awesome of them, IMO). This is where their work ended though, the downpipe was still damaged and was not covered under warranty, even from being damaged by the turbo leak. I believe oil must have somehow gotten down inside and through the cat contaminating it.

The previous owner then added the Cobb stage 2 package, which includes the cat obviously. Second problem fixed.

Last edited by cmiovino; 05-02-2013 at 12:24 PM.
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:03 AM   #2411
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will an aftermarket boost gauge deny my warranty?
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:07 AM   #2412
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Originally Posted by nismopowerdqg View Post
will an aftermarket boost gauge deny my warranty?
Not if it's properly hooked up. A boost gauge by itself cannot modify any engine operating parameters.
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:12 AM   #2413
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cool thanks!
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Old 06-03-2013, 10:18 AM   #2414
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Name:

Make: 2009 WRX Premium Hatch

Mileage: 56500

Time Out Of Use: 5 weeks

Problem And Likely Cause: Problem was grind/chunk shifting from 3rd to 4th gear after 10 miles of driving, and over 40 mph. My guess was the synchros, they drained the transmission oil and found shavings and chunks of metal

Modifications: Kartboy Short Shifter and Front/Rear shifter bushings

Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): Yes

Reason Given For Denial: The dealership went through my glove compartment and found a towing receipt, they tried to blame it on improper towing.

Your Story:
I took my car in to Sewell Subaru in Dallas, TX for the grinding issue, they drained the oil and found metal shavings and chunks of metal. They said my entire 5MT trainsmission needs to be rebuilt. Ive only had the car for 3 weeks prior to taking it in. Ive driven it normally.. so its not an abuse problem on my end. Long story short, they found a towing receipt in my glove compartment and blamed the problem on that. I called and verified with the towing company that they did tow it on a dolly. The dealership tried to deny the warranty repair saying that since the problem started AFTER my car was towed it would not be covered. I explained that the problem started about a week after i bought the car, and had gotten progressivly worse, and that at no point did i ever say that the problem started after it was towed. My service advisor said she'd call the warranty rep and see if there was anything she could do. My service advisor then called me back saying warranty WILL cover it since they cant prove that it was damaged by towing.

The time keeps getting longer.. first they didnt work on it for 2 weeks because of "tornado warnings", Now they ordered parts but not all have come in. So now it's been there a month.

Last edited by roadking0678; 06-20-2013 at 09:59 AM. Reason: time at the dealer
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Old 06-03-2013, 04:50 PM   #2415
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Name: H. B.

Make: 2012 WRX

Mileage: 19750

Time Out Of Use: Over 1 month total.

Problem And Likely Cause: Defective Transmission / Dealer service

Modifications: Cobb Shifter bushings, Group-N Mount, Cobb intake, AP stage 1 tune.

Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): Yes

Reason Given For Denial: ECU was flashed and Bushings

Your Story:

At 2000 miles brought into dealer due to 5th to 4th lockout. Dealer said they couldn't duplicate and told me there was nothing they could do and that subaru said it was normal.

Ordered the bushings and installed them. Didn't really help but the transmission didn't move around as much. Installed intake and tune shortly thereafter.

At 17k miles started having an issue where the synchro would grind from 4th to 5th. Brought it in and the 5th gear assembly was replaced. No mention was made in regards to the bushings, tune, or intake.

At 18500 same grinding would occur from 4th to 5th. Was told a lubrication ring was out of aligment from the factory. Was replaced along with another 5th gear assembly. Was told that if the problem occurred again, subaru authorized the transmission to be replaced. Again no mention or issue with the bushings, etc.

After I picked up the car, I noticed that while in 4th gear, the lever would move a half inch forward/backwards depending on if i was on/off the gas. Did not occur in any other gear nor was it there before the last warranty work was performed.

Called dealer and they said they will order a 3rd/4th gear assembly and contact subaru and requested me bring it in.

Dealer duplicated the issue but now subaru regional manager/engineer states that they will not authorize any more work unless the bushings are removed and the ecu replaced (not reflashed - replaced) for a cost out of my pocket of $1500.

I requested the dealer put the car back together and I will take the parts off and return it to 100% stock. At which time I will be trading the car in.

Subaru can go **** themselves. I will never buy another car or recommend them.

Last edited by commbubba19; 06-03-2013 at 05:06 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 06-05-2013, 06:01 PM   #2416
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Name: Justin Hudson

Make: 2004 Subaru Forester XT

Mileage: 124500

Time Out Of Use: 1 week

Problem And Likely Cause: Think oil starvation to Turbo. Original turbo blew at ~111K. Dealership replaced with OEM parts...blew at 15K (warranty until 12K)

Modifications: N/A

Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): Yes

Reason Given For Denial: Outside of 12K and 1yr.

Your Story: True...it falls outside of warranty timeframe. However, when dealer did the work, they did full maintenance (~$4K). I do all oil changes myself between 3750-5000 miles using mobil synthenic 5w-30 and mobil filter. This is a commuter car. No track days, high speed, towing, etc. Dealer said they'd "hook me up" and give me a 20% discount so I'd pay ~$2K to have it re-repaired. I have called into Subaru North America to see if they can do anything...they're following up with Dealer. If I dont get this resolved for FREE or at worst case, cost of parts...I'll get it fixed elsewhere and this will be my last Suby.

Any suggestions/help on how to approach this would be welcomed. Frustrated beyond belief right now.
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Old 06-05-2013, 06:05 PM   #2417
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Isn't the parts warranty 1 year, unlimited? How long ago was the turbo replaced?
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Old 06-05-2013, 10:58 PM   #2418
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justinmarque View Post
Name: Justin Hudson

Make: 2004 Subaru Forester XT

Mileage: 124500

Time Out Of Use: 1 week

Problem And Likely Cause: Think oil starvation to Turbo. Original turbo blew at ~111K. Dealership replaced with OEM parts...blew at 15K (warranty until 12K)

Modifications: N/A

Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): Yes

Reason Given For Denial: Outside of 12K and 1yr.

Your Story: True...it falls outside of warranty timeframe. However, when dealer did the work, they did full maintenance (~$4K). I do all oil changes myself between 3750-5000 miles using mobil synthenic 5w-30 and mobil filter. This is a commuter car. No track days, high speed, towing, etc. Dealer said they'd "hook me up" and give me a 20% discount so I'd pay ~$2K to have it re-repaired. I have called into Subaru North America to see if they can do anything...they're following up with Dealer. If I dont get this resolved for FREE or at worst case, cost of parts...I'll get it fixed elsewhere and this will be my last Suby.

Any suggestions/help on how to approach this would be welcomed. Frustrated beyond belief right now.
Mobile 1, specifically 5w-30 mobile 1, has been proven to be one of THE WORST oils you can use as it sheers down WAY too fast. Hence the oil starvation issues.

You can't be mad at the dealer or the manufacturer....you stated yourself it fell outside of the parts/workmanship warranty. It ain't their problem.

**** happens, parts wear or break. Its part of car ownership. Welcome to the club.

Also - wonderful first post.
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Old 06-24-2013, 01:19 AM   #2419
Moficular
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Name:

Make: 2011 WRX

Mileage: 41,000KM

Time Out Of Use: 4 days and counting.

Problem And Likely Cause: 1. Clutch squeak caused by deformed clutch fork and ball 2. CEL with corresponding cyl one and cyl two misfire codes caused by malfunctioning exhaust valves.

Modifications: None

Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): Yes

Reason Given For Denial:

Your Story: I'm new to NASIOC and after reading the threads regarding the 2011 WRX clutch issues noticed that my clutch was squeaking. Brought it to my dealership and on the way there my CEL comes on. They told me the clutch fork and ball were deformed which was causing damage to the clutch fingers and the ECU needed to be re-flashed. They replaced the clutch fork and ball as well as the pressure plate and re-flashed the ECU under warranty which took a couple of days. The day after I got my car back my CEL comes on again so I take it back to the dealership and they keep it overnight to diagnose the problem. Next day they tell me the exhaust valves are "too tight" and the engine needs to be removed so they can correct the problem. The dealership has been pretty good about it so far, all the work has been covered under warranty and they gave me a loaner car free of charge as they will need my car for a week. I guess I'm just bummed that in the span of a few days my nice shiny Suby has gone from zero problems to having the engine pulled. I'm just hoping that there hasn't been any further damage to the engine and I get my car back at the end of the week. Wasn't expecting these types of issues with a new car but I guess **** happens.
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Old 07-12-2013, 04:01 PM   #2420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moficular View Post
Name:

Make: 2011 WRX

Mileage: 41,000KM

Time Out Of Use: 4 days and counting.

Problem And Likely Cause: 1. Clutch squeak caused by deformed clutch fork and ball 2. CEL with corresponding cyl one and cyl two misfire codes caused by malfunctioning exhaust valves.

Modifications: None

Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): Yes

Reason Given For Denial:

Your Story: I'm new to NASIOC and after reading the threads regarding the 2011 WRX clutch issues noticed that my clutch was squeaking. Brought it to my dealership and on the way there my CEL comes on. They told me the clutch fork and ball were deformed which was causing damage to the clutch fingers and the ECU needed to be re-flashed. They replaced the clutch fork and ball as well as the pressure plate and re-flashed the ECU under warranty which took a couple of days. The day after I got my car back my CEL comes on again so I take it back to the dealership and they keep it overnight to diagnose the problem. Next day they tell me the exhaust valves are "too tight" and the engine needs to be removed so they can correct the problem. The dealership has been pretty good about it so far, all the work has been covered under warranty and they gave me a loaner car free of charge as they will need my car for a week. I guess I'm just bummed that in the span of a few days my nice shiny Suby has gone from zero problems to having the engine pulled. I'm just hoping that there hasn't been any further damage to the engine and I get my car back at the end of the week. Wasn't expecting these types of issues with a new car but I guess **** happens.
Any update?
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Old 07-12-2013, 08:42 PM   #2421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by commbubba19 View Post
Modifications: Cobb Shifter bushings, Group-N Mount, Cobb intake, AP stage 1 tune.

Reason Given For Denial: ECU was flashed and Bushings

Dealer duplicated the issue but now subaru regional manager/engineer states that they will not authorize any more work unless the bushings are removed and the ecu replaced (not reflashed - replaced) for a cost out of my pocket of $1500.

I requested the dealer put the car back together and I will take the parts off and return it to 100% stock. At which time I will be trading the car in.

Subaru can go **** themselves. I will never buy another car or recommend them.
Another whiner story. You bought a car. You modified it outside manufacturers specifications. It broke. Boo hoo. I'd say you should grow up, put on some big boy pants, and accept responsibilty. Pay to play, y'know.

Otherwise, you can go **** yourself.
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Old 07-12-2013, 08:53 PM   #2422
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Originally Posted by SpamBot View Post
Another whiner story. You bought a car. You modified it outside manufacturers specifications. It broke. Boo hoo. I'd say you should grow up, put on some big boy pants, and accept responsibilty. Pay to play, y'know.

Otherwise, you can go **** yourself.
Wow. Typical Internet asshat.
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Old 07-13-2013, 12:22 AM   #2423
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Originally Posted by commbubba19 View Post
Wow. Typical Internet asshat.
Honestly, what did you expect though. You can't flash a mother board bios and overclock it and expect the company to send you a new one when you fry the board.

You flash the ecu. The warranty should no longer apply.

Last edited by SpicyPeaNut; 07-13-2013 at 03:10 AM.
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Old 07-13-2013, 03:05 PM   #2424
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Originally Posted by SpicyPeaNut View Post
Honestly, what did you expect though. You can't flash a mother board bios and overclock it and expect the company to send you a new one when you fry the board.

You flash the ecu. The warranty should no longer apply.
Agreed
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Old 07-15-2013, 02:12 AM   #2425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atheismo View Post
Any update?

Well its been a couple of weeks since getting my car back and the CEL has not come back on and the clutch is no longer squealing, but now I am getting a faint grinding noise when I push the clutch in. Seems to only happen above 3,000 RPM, and most noticeable when shifting from second to third. I'm not having any issues actually changing gears, just makes that noise when I push the clutch in. Just finished exam week at school so I haven't had a chance to get it back to the dealership, but I will be phoning them tomorrow to get it in.
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