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Old 09-10-2012, 01:31 PM   #76
jonthesloth
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make sure the wires going into the crank sensor aren't torn or messed up
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:34 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonthesloth
make sure the wires going into the crank sensor aren't torn or messed up
Yeah they're good
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Old 09-10-2012, 02:12 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deanorbust View Post
The dealer would be able to reprogram the immobilizer to match the key and ecu? Even tho they came from a matching vehicle? Also, I don't have the vin from the donor car. dont u need the vin to get that stuff reprogrammed?
I don't know about Subaru but when I was at the dealership and people lost all the keys to their cars we would have to do an immobilizer reset. You would be basically wiping the whole system out and starting over. It was quite the process and it requires the tech stream lap top as well as the shop TIS computer to input the customer information in order to proceed with the reset and getting the "seed" number and such.
I would imagine if you explained to the dealer your current issue and as long as the regi is in your name and the vin matches the car it shouldn't be an issue. They may also have to do a Vin write on the computer so the Vin on the car matches with the vin in the computer. I know it's like that on Toyotas and on some if you don't do a vin write after replacing the ecu you would get MIL light...this is also how DMV knows if you try and run a different car through the NYS inspection machine.
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Old 09-10-2012, 02:17 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToyotaMike

I don't know about Subaru but when I was at the dealership and people lost all the keys to their cars we would have to do an immobilizer reset. You would be basically wiping the whole system out and starting over. It was quite the process and it requires the tech stream lap top as well as the shop TIS computer to input the customer information in order to proceed with the reset and getting the "seed" number and such.
I would imagine if you explained to the dealer your current issue and as long as the regi is in your name and the vin matches the car it shouldn't be an issue. They may also have to do a Vin write on the computer so the Vin on the car matches with the vin in the computer. I know it's like that on Toyotas and on some if you don't do a vin write after replacing the ecu you would get MIL light...this is also how DMV knows if you try and run a different car through the NYS inspection machine.
Gotcha
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Old 09-10-2012, 02:34 PM   #80
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reprogramming isnt hard on subarus. We only charge 3 tenths to do it which is $29..... our labor rate is $109 an hour here. If they try to charge more id bitch about it. Trailer the car down to a dealer and see if the key needs to be programed again. If it doesnt need to they can over ride it, delete all the keys and reprogram for the hell of it. It will tell them if the key is already registered.
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:17 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UK-Wagon
reprogramming isnt hard on subarus. We only charge 3 tenths to do it which is $29..... our labor rate is $109 an hour here. If they try to charge more id bitch about it. Trailer the car down to a dealer and see if the key needs to be programed again. If it doesnt need to they can over ride it, delete all the keys and reprogram for the hell of it. It will tell them if the key is already registered.
I'm gonna setup truck and full tow and appointment with dealer to have everything reset and reprogrammed. Here's hoping!!!!
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:55 PM   #82
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Does the imobillizer light flash with the key off?
Does the immobilizer light go off with the key on or does it light
steady? If it lights steady the key has the wrong code for the imobillizer.
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Old 09-11-2012, 08:55 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 904svo
Does the imobillizer light flash with the key off?
Does the immobilizer light go off with the key on or does it light
steady? If it lights steady the key has the wrong code for the imobillizer.
I put it in light goes iff
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Old 09-11-2012, 04:03 PM   #84
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Okay, so when I pulled the crankshaft sensor it was covered in fresh oil. From what I knew about the car the valve cover warped and spirted oil. That got replaced with a new gasket, then the oil pump went, and that was replaced properly. My brother (certified Subaru mechanic) and I this weekend are going to pull the motor and break it down to figure out where this mysterious oil leak is coming from and maybe that is what is impeding the car from cranking over. I don't know if this will solve said problem with no spark. But it'll be a start as far as ruling certain aspects of troubleshooting down. Then I guess we'll hook up the noid tester to the injectors, coilpacks, and continue more troubleshooting. If anyone is from NY and is free this weekend, we can definitely use some different point of views and an extra set of hands? I'll BBQ some steaks and get the beer. But, beer afterwards not during.
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Old 09-11-2012, 08:43 PM   #85
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Another thing maybe the crank sprocket breaking a tooth or more. a friend of mine had it happen. unlikely, but possible.
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:17 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shtbxr255
Another thing maybe the crank sprocket breaking a tooth or more. a friend of mine had it happen. unlikely, but possible.
We checked it twice since we set the timing and double checked that. This thing is driving me nuts. Of anyone can donate some time and the knowledge this weekend I live I Long Island, NY. PM me.
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:42 PM   #87
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See if the Red wire on the coil packs has battery when the key is on.
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Old 09-11-2012, 10:59 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 904svo
See if the Red wire on the coil packs has battery when the key is on.
When we connect the noid light it'll glow showing it has power or not but I can also test with dvm
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:17 PM   #89
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If it has power, check for power on the following leads on the air flow
sensor the Yellow/Blue for 12 volts then check the Black wire on any
fuel injector for 12 volts.
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:31 PM   #90
deanorbust
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 904svo
If it has power, check for power on the following leads on the air flow
sensor the Yellow/Blue for 12 volts then check the Black wire on any
fuel injector for 12 volts.
The noid light check will determine all electrical with coilpacks and fuel injectors I gotta wait till the weekend I work nights
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Old 09-12-2012, 04:51 PM   #91
Geethirtyfour
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToyotaMike View Post
I don't know about Subaru but when I was at the dealership and people lost all the keys to their cars we would have to do an immobilizer reset. You would be basically wiping the whole system out and starting over. It was quite the process and it requires the tech stream lap top as well as the shop TIS computer to input the customer information in order to proceed with the reset and getting the "seed" number and such.
I would imagine if you explained to the dealer your current issue and as long as the regi is in your name and the vin matches the car it shouldn't be an issue. They may also have to do a Vin write on the computer so the Vin on the car matches with the vin in the computer. I know it's like that on Toyotas and on some if you don't do a vin write after replacing the ecu you would get MIL light...this is also how DMV knows if you try and run a different car through the NYS inspection machine.
Get a shop/service manual, a real one, if you don't already. Worth it's weight in gold. There are CD's on eBay.

Even my Actron code reader can pull up the VIN of the car so I assume that it is stored in the ECU. Be prepared to explain that difference to the Subaru techs working on your car because the original transmitter codes probably won't work now either after your Harness & ECU swap. Like ToyotaMike says, if the stamped VIN plate on the body and NYS registration match you're OK there. This of course assumes that the immobilizer is the issue in the first place.

I am following this thread because the problem is interesting, and the answer is going to be a head slapper I'm sure. It is interesting and we can all learn a lot. Hopefully I can contribute more later. I've lurked a long time at NASIOC and participated in many online forums for different cars I've owned. I came to NASIOC when I bought my own WRX and it is a great place to get educated.

That said: You would catch more flies with honey, yada yada. Hell, you blew off Uncle Scotty! That guy knows his stuff and you missed a chance to pick his brain.

Another thing: I am a war veteran too and it isn't classy and shows a lack of military bearing to ask for free ("probono") stuff on the first page. I've seen members offer help to each other in person when they feel like it. We are giving you free time and good advice worth hundreds of dollars. You seem to acknowledge this as you criticize your local techs' and their hourly rate - even before you even let them see the car!

You can insult me, I have a thick skin. It appears you don't.

Peace.
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:42 PM   #92
deanorbust
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geethirtyfour

Get a shop/service manual, a real one, if you don't already. Worth it's weight in gold. There are CD's on eBay.

Even my Actron code reader can pull up the VIN of the car so I assume that it is stored in the ECU. Be prepared to explain that difference to the Subaru techs working on your car because the original transmitter codes probably won't work now either after your Harness & ECU swap. Like ToyotaMike says, if the stamped VIN plate on the body and NYS registration match you're OK there. This of course assumes that the immobilizer is the issue in the first place.

I am following this thread because the problem is interesting, and the answer is going to be a head slapper I'm sure. It is interesting and we can all learn a lot. Hopefully I can contribute more later. I've lurked a long time at NASIOC and participated in many online forums for different cars I've owned. I came to NASIOC when I bought my own WRX and it is a great place to get educated.

That said: You would catch more flies with honey, yada yada. Hell, you blew off Uncle Scotty! That guy knows his stuff and you missed a chance to pick his brain.

Another thing: I am a war veteran too and it isn't classy and shows a lack of military bearing to ask for free ("probono") stuff on the first page. I've seen members offer help to each other in person when they feel like it. We are giving you free time and good advice worth hundreds of dollars. You seem to acknowledge this as you criticize your local techs' and their hourly rate - even before you even let them see the car!

You can insult me, I have a thick skin. It appears you don't.

Peace.
It's all good just frustrating that's all. My brother was telling me that the SSM needs to know the vin for the ecu in order to find the pass lock codes to reset such things like ecu, immobilizer and key. I'm just curious to know if this is 100% true. Can't they just reset it and program it to my vin on my car?
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Old 09-12-2012, 07:55 PM   #93
904svo
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Yes its true. Subaru keeps a data base of VIN's with the codes required
to reprogram the Immobilizer and ECU. A programed like Torque for a tablet
will read out the VIN. Some dealers want proof that you bought that stuff
from a junk vehicle.
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Old 09-13-2012, 05:43 AM   #94
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I read the thread but didnt see anything about a leak down or compression test results. Have you done this?

Have you looked for any kill switches that may have been wired straight to the engine harness? In the past on my older Hondas during the wire tuck I would wire up the distributor hot wire to a relay connected to my "AC button" as a hidden kill switch. Long shot but with the hacky alarm install anything is possible.
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Old 09-13-2012, 06:23 AM   #95
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Trade you my bike for your Sti. I'll take it to my local 23 yr old mechanic and Be happy.
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Old 09-13-2012, 10:03 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easterbran
it's gotta be related to the Viper. you even said yourself that it may have shorted something out along the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by deanorbust
Yeah I removed it already. Hopefully the guy at gtspec can figure it out. No codes. No cel's. The pinouts I mentioned were the ignition pinouts to the coilpacks cam sensor is tested and good. And for the "cool guy" already chiming in, I don't need it ya douche bag looking for intelligent input not yours.
Quote:
Originally Posted by deanorbust

Already removed it why would I still have it if I said I replaced it with a new unmolested harness you should read first before replying
Quote:
Originally Posted by deanorbust

Yessir the replacement came out of same year and make
Quote:
Originally Posted by scubynoob
I read the thread but didnt see anything about a leak down or compression test results. Have you done this?

Have you looked for any kill switches that may have been wired straight to the engine harness? In the past on my older Hondas during the wire tuck I would wire up the distributor hot wire to a relay connected to my "AC button" as a hidden kill switch. Long shot but with the hacky alarm install anything is possible.
Answer above....
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Old 09-14-2012, 01:09 PM   #97
deanorbust
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Pending EFI Logics appointment date set for October 6th

Last edited by deanorbust; 09-14-2012 at 04:59 PM.
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:41 PM   #98
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I read this entire thread. Sucks you have that issue, also sucks your knocking on 22 yr olds (22 yr old ELE student here). Thats besides the point. I'm waiting for an epic ending. When you take it to the shop they hook up a new battery and it runs like a charm . Good luck with everything
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:53 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jthatch12
I read this entire thread. Sucks you have that issue, also sucks your knocking on 22 yr olds (22 yr old ELE student here). Thats besides the point. I'm waiting for an epic ending. When you take it to the shop they hook up a new battery and it runs like a charm . Good luck with everything
Thanks
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Old 09-15-2012, 01:20 AM   #100
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I've got a feeling this is gonna be one of those simple things that your gonna kick yourself in the ass for! With everything that you have done and says is working this thing should run...... gotta be something simple your missing?
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