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Old 10-11-2012, 09:23 PM   #26
ToddMcF2002
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OK talked to Advanced Engine today in Wareham MA about doing a 2.1 Stroker build using Mahle oversized pistons. I want to pair it with an 18g and go for a conservative 330WHP. That would basically match my Evo X which was fast enough to scare the crap out of me and more car than my dubious HPDE skills can justify

What really sold me about Advanced Engine was:
- 1 year warranty. Even if I track the car (barring me murdering it via over rev or something else horrific or stupid)
- Nasioc recommendations from some locals
- The do all machining and assembly, use torque plates, head cnc
- I was impressed they knew enough about Limerock that the back strait rise can cause momentary oil starvation. That little hill scares me

Anway... I still need to install the QRack, rebuild and install Brembos, RCE Tarmac's and I'm waiting on the RCE front and rear camber plates. I also forgot to order the F/R whiteline 24mm adjustables whoops

BTW the Ground Control and Cusco rear plates will be for sale soon.... PM me if interested. I'll put them for sale officially once I get the RCE's installed. Those suckers were pricey!
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Old 10-14-2012, 09:31 PM   #27
ToddMcF2002
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OK Back to reality (engine building is waaaaaaay off)...

Took a little break from struggling with my rear caliper problems and hating on Brembo (stripped bleaders... metal on aluminum plus heat... Brembo you suck... I digress...).
Time to assemble my new QRack .
First the old POS with the inner tie rods flapping around, leaks everywhere and boots completely torn off



Here is the new beast.


I think I gave myself tendonitis swapping the hardlines between my old rack and the QRack. A few of those fittings were really on there and working with the rack out of a vice is pretty difficult. There is no good place to vice it up because of the hard lines. The Moog inner tie rods are pretty damn nice. Notice the outer tie rods have zerk fittings so they are serviceable. Cool eh? No more dead tie rods. Moog rocks.

Once the inner tie rods where on there (via bbbbbiiiiggg pipe wrench and more tendon pain) I bench centered the rack. 2 f*cking turns lock to lock sweeeeeeeeeettttt...... Pretty easy to center it! just wrap a rag around the control shaft (not on the spindles duh) and it turns without much effort. Smooth as butter gearing Yes those are zip ties. I know.... but apparently its standard practice and yet I don't like it either. I admit... for the life of me I couldn't figure out how to attach those metal straps that came with my Raybestos boots without tearing up the boots in the process.... any advice I'm listening!

Four Bananas!
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:09 PM   #28
ToddMcF2002
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QRack installed. I *really* don't want to do that again. Messy and akward to work with. That said it is awesome. Stiff and zero play on center... feel everything on the road, great response. 2 turns lock to lock

The only surprise was bump steer. I think that's the Whiteline Rack bushings though. There is simply no more dampening. Love it though...

One thing to b*tch about are the Moog endlinks. They sent me one with Zerk fittings and one without! WTF on that. I'm going to call RockAuto and complain!
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:20 PM   #29
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Great start so far!

Subscribed for future updates.
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:17 PM   #30
ToddMcF2002
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First off - thanks DNut!

Rear Brembo Bleeder Repair
So recently I've been pretty down on Brembo and not without reason. The brakes are horribly overpriced for what you get and the manufacturing quality leaves a bit to be desired. If you read up on the problems you'll find issues with bleeders and particularly mounting bolts. Why? Because Brembo was too cheap to time-sert their overpriced calipers and threaded directly into the aluminum casting. How do I know Brembo knows this is bad and cause issues down the road? They have a Time-sert's in the banjo bolt hole. Next time you detach your line take a good look if you don't believe me. Damn you Brembo. Damn you to hell!

My rear caliper bleeders were completely seized and stripped the threads horribly on extraction. If you read around on the forums you'll find some repair ideas including 1/4 NPT repair kits and some helicoil attempts. Frankly I'm not a big helicoil fan so for me it was Time-sert or bust. The NPT threaded repair kits are very compelling since they give you 2 basic things:
- a new solid threaded body, similar to a Time-sert
- a new bleeder seat, so lining up with the stock (and potentially fatigued) seat isn't critical
Sounds perfect, but there is one big problem. The 1/4 NPT repair kit is big. Once you drill for the thread tap it leaves very little casting left for wall structure... in fact less than the recommended 1/8 thickness. If you get away with it its probably OK, just not ideal. The ideal option is 1/8 NPT. But wait... screwed again! The drill for tapping on the 1/8 NPT repair kit isn't significantly larger than the stock bleeder thread diameter which peaks out around 9.9mm. What does that mean? You wouldn't have a smooth bore after drilling for thread tapping. Therefore, the repair would fail to thread properly as the threads would be junk.

Luckily, Time-sert has a repair kit for 1/8 NPT 27 fittings. The insert length is .360, which is almost perfect and yet *just* off enough to cause issues as you'll see. But it works.... It uses a 13/32 drill bit which is a good .6mm larger than the stock bleeder thread diameter which ensures the o-so-critical nice smooth bore before tapping. So this means combining the 1/8 NPT Bleeder repair kit with the matching Time-sert. It gets you a larger drill bore leading to good quality threads and a nice non-aluminum mating surface!


Here is the kit (it comes with 5 inserts... I used 4 before taking the pic):


Here is a closeup of the Time-sert .36 insert and tap


A note on the Thread Lock
LocTite 266 has two worthwhile properties for this application. It is compatible/safe with brake fluid and it is heat proof to 500 degrees. I'm not sure the brake fluid would ever reach the compound but it is a comfort. Bear in mind that popular HPDE ready fluids such as ATE Super Blue have boiling points around 500 degrees so I'm feeling pretty good about this Time-sert approved red thread locker.

About them Time-sert Inserts
As I mentioned, There is still a problem with the inserts. The insert is just a hair too long to seat flush as Time-serts are intended to seat. Grinding them down would be tough as they would be difficult if not impossible to vice without damaging the threads or warping the bore. Its not a problem however, since both the insert and the Brass NPT fitting is torqued down pretty aggressively (at least 40 lbs... nevermind the thread locker). Its just not as elegant as it could be. You can't just keep drilling either. If I got any more aggressive with the drill I'd risk puncturing through the stock bleeder seat and put a sizable chunk of aluminum in the caliper fluid channels I couldn't blow out with my compressor. I decided esthetics weren't that important and opted not to risk it. This isn't an engine block and I actually don't need a flush surface. The Time-sert is a one way road. Whether you get it all the way in or not it ain't coming out!
Here is the Time-sert fully bottomed out on the aggressively drilled out stock bleeder seat - not there is still a small reveal so its not quite perfect:



On my first drill and tap attempt I was far less aggressive and the results are clearly less pretty. Functionally it will not matter for the same reasons as above. But lets face it... it is just ugly. I decided to find someone else to blame for this anyway: Brembo! I propped one of the extra Time-serts there so you can get an idea of how many threads are engaged. It will be fine.


The Bleeder Repair Kit
On the final pic I wanted to focus on the Bleeder repair kit. I picked these up at Advanced Auto, but they are likely rebranded Thextons. Each kit is around $8 bucks and I'm happy with the quality. They are a really good fit in the Time-sert and once again I used Loctite 266. Just don't get any on the bleeder screw Since I lacked my own pic I grabbed a shot off the interweb showing the new bleeder seat the kit has on the end of the NPT fitting (the black outlined box). I really do like the simple design. Since the bleeder itself should only ever see 5-6 lbs of torque this repair should be permanent (even the ugly one!).


Last edited by ToddMcF2002; 10-21-2012 at 11:22 PM.
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Old 11-10-2012, 10:24 PM   #31
ToddMcF2002
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I'll get some pics tomorrow.... Brembo's are on, along with Mach V 'Awesome' wheels mounted with 245 40 r17 Starspecs. I drove the car about 40 miles and she is tracking nice and strait, brakes work well except the pedal engagement is too low. The car is back up on jack stands for a second bleeding round. I also suspect I have at least 1 Brembo piston in the rear that gets sticky. When I parked the car it was dragging the brakes when I went to back it out of the spot. Clears itself up and then comes back occasionally. I might have to take off the rear calipers and replace the Mach V rebuild seals with the original Brembo seals (which were in great condition when I rebuilt them). I had to do a full rebuild given all the drilling for the timecerts. Just More work!

Oh... in this process I did confirm that the shaking under braking I was experiencing over 50MPH was in fact *not* an inner tie rod but a frozen piston on the OEM WRX caliper. The Brembo fronts solved that. I was pretty surprised when the QRack didn't solve it. That's ok I wanted a QRack anyway
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Old 11-11-2012, 01:24 PM   #32
ToddMcF2002
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Monster Truckin!!!

Amateur hour pics as promised......
The re-bleed was successful. Brakes feel great now with normal pedal travel and bite. I'm very pleased.
My son was a big help. Here he is getting each lug to 85 pounds. He did them all. I can get used to this!


Horrible picture of the front. Next up is the Tarmac T2 install. Goodbye monster truck...


Another view


The offset of the Mach V's is pretty aggressve... as are the 245 40 17's. I'm going to have to roll the rear I think.
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Old 11-11-2012, 02:19 PM   #33
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I like this thread because:

1. You're salvaging a Bugeye, much like I've been doing the last two-three years

2. You know what you're doing

3. You're installing quality parts, quite jelly over the caliper and suspension setup
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:05 PM   #34
ToddMcF2002
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Thanks. I got the camber plates removed from the T2's today in prep for the RCE plates, front and rear. The RCE top nut is freakin 27mm! *sigh* didn't have that one and had to go shopping. I just can't drum up the enthusiasm to take the wheels off at the moment. I've put the car up on jack stands something like 12 times in the last 3 days. I'll do it tomorrow night I suppose. After all I've got to let those 19mm strut bolts soak in PB for a few days to avoid extreme pain and suffering!
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:44 AM   #35
ToddMcF2002
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I've neglected this thread pretty badly but not the car. Its back together with all the mods:
- RCE T2
- RCE Front and rear camber pates
- Kartboy Endlings Front and Rear
- 24mm adj Whiteline sways F/R
- Whiteline rear sway mounts
- FastWrx stainless brake lines
- DBA slotted Rotors
- Brembos with Stoptech pads
- QRack
- Whiteline Stearing rack bushings

Next up is chassis stiffening (and pics of course). I'd like to get the TiC X-Brace but I'm not sure if I can run it with the rear camber plates? I'm also looking at the cheapo Megan H brace and a cheapo front strut tower brace. Then bushings for lateral links, control arms and rear trailing arms. That should complete the suspension and stearing mods!
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Old 02-23-2013, 09:42 PM   #36
s.roy1996
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Love the rebuild btw my father and I rebuilt my 02 WRX just to stock parts tho but I love it neither the less. Look forward to see what else you are going to do. Quick question tho, how much did you pay for those brembo calipers? Last time I priced them out it was an insane price. Looks great I gotta say.
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:55 PM   #37
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tag12
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Old 05-31-2013, 11:33 AM   #38
ToddMcF2002
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Sorry. Totally neglected this thread. I paid about 750 on Ebay. The good news is its all working, but the bad news is seen above with all the drama around the bleeders. BBK's are extremely overpriced and no one seems to produce a good alternative to Brembos without some other compromise (like missing dust jackets on the Wilwoods). All in with rotors it was a bit over 1K. Pricey.

As far as the car it is off to the shop to have a Magnaflow 59959 200 cell HFC installed and have the rears rolled. The car is eating the rear tires badly now that the KW's are on. I dumped the Megan Fart Can for the JNA Performance Cobb replica, and it is still mated to the Megan downpipe. Fitment was a major issue and I had to have one of the flanges cutoff at the midpipe and the muffler hangers redesigned. No biggie, just $90.

Next up are Corbeaus, FP43, Grimspeed EBCS, Injectors, tune.

When the car is back I'll take pics.
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Old 05-31-2013, 12:04 PM   #39
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I would look into a jdm ej207/6spd swap and compare prices with building what you have. Nice build btw.
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Old 05-31-2013, 03:53 PM   #40
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Current pics of the car? I love the Mach V Awesome's! I will be buying a set for my own bugeye soon
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Old 05-31-2013, 11:05 PM   #41
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It's at the shop getting fenders done, high flow cat and the AC fixed. I'll do pics when I get her back. It's going to be great to drive it without shredding my rears. As far as power my goals are under 350/350. I'd be more than happy with 300/300, which is fine for the FP43/2.0. My Evo 10 was around 330 and its was heavier. I have no desire for anything faster. My Evo was way beyond my abilities as a driver. I want to drive Limerock, not be buried there. The engine shop mentioned above can bulletproof the 2.0 for many years with these modest goals. Plus I'm fine with this 5 speed and it should stay happy with me as I never launch cars and don't push big power. Even my Golf R is stock.
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Old 05-31-2013, 11:35 PM   #42
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Sounds reasonable, you have a better grasp on power then most everyone here. All they want is POWAAAA! My power goals for my build are the same, 300/300 with my vf37, I'll be pushing my turbo to its limits though. I've always wanted to drive around limerock, I'm tired of sebring and how flat it is.
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Old 05-31-2013, 11:46 PM   #43
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Nice.. I'll take any track! I've only been on Limerock for Skip Barber. It was pretty amazing. The back strait is a bit scary with one hill you have to hit with the wheels strait as your traction patch is minimal there. Fun fun! I keep saying FP43 but I mean VF43. I've got to get the Evo thing out of my head... its all FP red/green/black in that world.
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Old 05-31-2013, 11:49 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddMcF2002 View Post
Nice.. I'll take any track! I've only been on Limerock for Skip Barber. It was pretty amazing. The back strait is a bit scary with one hill you have to hit with the wheels strait as your traction patch is minimal there. Fun fun! I keep saying FP43 but I mean VF43. I've got to get the Evo thing out of my head... its all FP red/green/black in that world.
I knew what you meant lol the only hill I've ever experienced in racing is at Barber, and you definitely want to hit it straight. I've always said I'm going to drive around the country and go to some good tracks. Limerock being one along with Road Atlanta, Road America, Laguna Seca and our newest addition COTA maybe one day.. anyways I've enjoyed your build progress and can't wait to see it done
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Old 06-01-2013, 12:06 AM   #45
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Love the wheels and tires...great look!
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:53 PM   #46
ToddMcF2002
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Here is an update The shops I was at today were very cool about letting me hang out and take some pics with my Blackberry (crappyish pics sorry). The Town Fair Tire technicians were great and they all wanted to know about the build. The desk monkeys out front said they couldn't do the alignment to anything but factory specs (yawn) but the technician talked him down from his idiotic position once he explained to him what a coilover was (geez really?). Again, cool techs. Moron desk monkeys. But that's the way it should be .

Because I was running 2/3rds full negative with the camber plates the alignment only needed minor tweaks to the camber bolt to get it near perfect. Its nice to finally have a strait steering wheel and the QRack is simply outstanding now. L-O-V-E it! Anyway onto photos...

alignment shots. -2.5 camber front, -1 rear, slightly negative toe



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Old 06-07-2013, 01:54 PM   #47
ToddMcF2002
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High Flow Cat installed (Magnaflow 59959 200 cell), right before the 02 bung at the end of the downpipe. I don't get why anyone would want it installed higher? Don't people worry about heat soak so close to the turbo?






View of the fender "roll" meaning not using a roller. The body shop used body shop tools and 2 stage touch up paint+Urethane. They did a great job! Also, those with sharp eyes can see the RaceComp Rear Camber plates. They are topping the RaceComp Tarmac T2's.



JNA Performance cat back pre-high flow cat installed. As noted above still using the Megan downpipe. Note the elimination of the midpipe flange and new exhaust hangers. Fitment was FUBAR out of the box. Sounds great and fits well now though Even with the welding work saved hundreds vs a real Cobb. I like fake exhausts... too simple to totally screw up.



new Whiteline RSB mount, Karboy and Witeline 24mm on softest setting.
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Old 06-07-2013, 04:59 PM   #48
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Great stuff. Keep up the good work.
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Old 06-09-2013, 12:58 PM   #49
ToddMcF2002
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Small setback today. At first I thought the passenger front inboard Brembo bleeder had started to leak but no... The stainless brake line was rubbing the edge of the wheel and wore a nasty groove in the wheel and sprung a leak. I'm going to have to replace the wheel as the line amazingly wore off a ton of metal. Damn. Just when you think you know what you are doing lol. To avoid this all I had to do was force more line through the rubber grommet away from the wheel. *sigh*
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Old 06-09-2013, 01:48 PM   #50
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$380 later I'll be back in business by end of week. What a PITA....
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