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Old 09-12-2012, 09:39 PM   #1
jojo69
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Default '12 wrx - car isn't quite the same... logs

Ok,

So i've had some weird stuff happen lately:

a) the Cobb AP will randomly shut off in the car, while in use (happened twice). Typically the screen will turn on when plugged in the usb and after a few hours, the screen will turn on when in the car... (overheating? AP is located in the far left, under the windshield). AP is less than 1 yr old. yes it has the latest firmware update.
Any suggestions?

b) Since my dealership first service last week, the car "feels different" and is not reaching peak boost. It doesn't seem to "pull" as much as before. Since the service I began noticing an louder spooling/"woooshing" noise when I accelerate, so I dreaded the famous TB/TMIC hose boost leak and went to the dealership. The dealership checked it on 2 occasions and there is nothing "wrong" with the tmic/tb hoses as far as they can tell. No engine light. Car idles fine, runs fine, just more loud and the peak boost concern.

I have attached a log of a 3rd pull 2 days ago. I noticed some knock values that weren't there compared to the 1st log I did, but not sure what that means.

The only changes I have done is gone from a stg1 93 to stg1 91 and back to stg1 93 in less than a week. (that's what happens when you move to ME).
I'm currently back on stg1 93.

I have attached the 1st ever log i did on April 28th (for comparison) and the most recent (3 days ago).
Can anyone advise if i'm withing normal parameters or if something is wrong?
Should I do a HWG re-flash and data log as well...

I don't want to mess anything up as you can imagine This is my dd and i need it to be working

Car has under 7k miles on it.

1st log (ever):https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...WE5V0ZhNnFSTWc

latest log (3days ago):https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...jRObFE2eDY1OVE

Thanks in advance.

Here are 2 more logs I did in the past week, I think they were with a stg1 91 octane gas... if that helps...
logs:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...UFIaVhScmZldXc
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...U5hWEl4WUprUGc(Mods - this was supposed to be posted under AP section. Sorry).
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Last edited by jojo69; 09-12-2012 at 09:46 PM.
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:26 PM   #2
kingme
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Boost leak.

In Datalog 7 your a/f learning is up, you're not reaching the same peak boost as in Datalog 1 and TD Boost error is up.

Be sure to remove the rubber end caps on the tb-ic connection and use t-bolt clamps. Very few dealerships properly diagnose and fix that problem, it seems.
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:30 PM   #3
bacalhau16
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Does your car still sound like it has a leak? Did the dealer remove the intercooler to check, its the only way you can be fully certain.

To me, it looks some you have a leak by looking at your logs. Your underboosting 2-3 lbs, some knock but not significant, but there is a lot of AF correction which i believe also points to a leak.

Double check the map you are using and if you still hear a leak, then demand they remove the intercooler and reinstall.
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:56 PM   #4
jojo69
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Both times I went (yes I went there twice), they did not remove the IC as far as I know. I keep telling them that I believe there is a leak, but they keep saying all the hoses are fine and the car "sounds good". The only diagnose of a leak (to me) is a louder sounding "spooling" sound or "wooosh" sound when I accelerate and a difference in peak boost numbers as reported by the AP. I have never heard that spooling sound before which leads me to believe something is off...

At this point, I don't really want to go a 3rd time/demand they remove the IC. It seems that I either go to a different dealership (further away) or some independent subaru tech.
I'm also considering the 'bullet proof' mod that, based on my reading, should minimize any potential leak (correct me if i'm wrong).

... I'm sure the map is 93 stage 1 on datalog 7. I'm 98% sure the datalog 6 & 7 were on a 91 octane map.
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:14 PM   #5
kingme
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Remove the rubber end caps and replace the hose clamps with t-bolt clamps yourself. I doubt the dealership will do it for you. The link to legacygt.com forums in the quote below has good tips and pics for removing the tmic.

From http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/newr...ly&p=37051131.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kingme View Post
http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...-115418p5.html

Page 5 shows how the end caps get blown out and post #49 has detailed instructions for removing the intercooler. This tb-ic design has been a problem since the dawn of time the '05 LGT came out.

I believe this car has two problems that present themselves with similar noises:

1) tb-ic hose needs end caps removed and t-bolt clamps installed. Hairspray helps as a lubricant to slide the hose on to the tb and creates superb seal when it dries. When mine was loose the car would noticeably pull timing.

...
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:21 PM   #6
jojo69
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thanks King for the link.
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:31 PM   #7
kingme
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Wait and see if anyone comments on the logs with more insight, my tuning knowledge is limited.

I do, however, have extensive experience with that tb-ic hose. It was my nemesis for a long time and if it isn't leaking now it will eventually. It's a pain in the butt to get at the throttle body end to tighten the clamp and proper hose orientation (aligning the dots) is critical and difficult to achieve but trust me, this is the only way!

Good luck.
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:53 PM   #8
jojo69
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yeah, I'm curious to hear what Cobb techs have to say about the logs .

I'm hoping to find a reputable subaru tech to help me out with the tmic/hose clamps... I've just about given up on dealership techs at this point!


:P
Quote:
Originally Posted by kingme View Post
Wait and see if anyone comments on the logs with more insight, my tuning knowledge is limited.

I do, however, have extensive experience with that tb-ic hose. It was my nemesis for a long time and if it isn't leaking now it will eventually. It's a pain in the butt to get at the throttle body end to tighten the clamp and proper hose orientation (aligning the dots) is critical and difficult to achieve but trust me, this is the only way!

Good luck.
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:37 AM   #9
Cobb Tuning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jojo69 View Post
Ok,

So i've had some weird stuff happen lately:

a) the Cobb AP will randomly shut off in the car, while in use (happened twice). Typically the screen will turn on when plugged in the usb and after a few hours, the screen will turn on when in the car... (overheating? AP is located in the far left, under the windshield). AP is less than 1 yr old. yes it has the latest firmware update.
Any suggestions?

b) Since my dealership first service last week, the car "feels different" and is not reaching peak boost. It doesn't seem to "pull" as much as before. Since the service I began noticing an louder spooling/"woooshing" noise when I accelerate, so I dreaded the famous TB/TMIC hose boost leak and went to the dealership. The dealership checked it on 2 occasions and there is nothing "wrong" with the tmic/tb hoses as far as they can tell. No engine light. Car idles fine, runs fine, just more loud and the peak boost concern.

I have attached a log of a 3rd pull 2 days ago. I noticed some knock values that weren't there compared to the 1st log I did, but not sure what that means.

The only changes I have done is gone from a stg1 93 to stg1 91 and back to stg1 93 in less than a week. (that's what happens when you move to ME).
I'm currently back on stg1 93.

I have attached the 1st ever log i did on April 28th (for comparison) and the most recent (3 days ago).
Can anyone advise if i'm withing normal parameters or if something is wrong?
Should I do a HWG re-flash and data log as well...

I don't want to mess anything up as you can imagine This is my dd and i need it to be working

Car has under 7k miles on it.

1st log (ever):https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...WE5V0ZhNnFSTWc

latest log (3days ago):https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...jRObFE2eDY1OVE

Thanks in advance.

Here are 2 more logs I did in the past week, I think they were with a stg1 91 octane gas... if that helps...
logs:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...UFIaVhScmZldXc
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...U5hWEl4WUprUGc(Mods - this was supposed to be posted under AP section. Sorry).
For the AP issue (where it is shutting off), I would give our customer service department a call: 866-922-3059

As far as the logs, your 2nd set show some extreme negative long-term fuel trims (A/F Learning 1). This could be due to a boost leak. What did the dealership touch/repair the time before you first noticed the noise?

Bill
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Old 09-13-2012, 10:18 AM   #10
jojo69
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Nothing, just the regular 1st oil change service at 7k. I don't think the dealership did anything, it seems that the boost leak (if indeed that) occurred right after the service. That could be total coincidence.
I would like to identify the potential source and fix it at this point!
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:19 PM   #11
bacalhau16
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Not sure if you are car savy, but might be that time to learn. Along with the intercooler coupling, the hose that attach to the blow off valve could also detach from under the intercooler. Lots of things to look at, learn and consider upgrading.
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:47 PM   #12
Cobb Tuning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jojo69 View Post
Nothing, just the regular 1st oil change service at 7k. I don't think the dealership did anything, it seems that the boost leak (if indeed that) occurred right after the service. That could be total coincidence.
I would like to identify the potential source and fix it at this point!
If you have an air compressor, you can create your own pressure tester to see if there is a leak along the intake tract. Search for DIY pressure tester. You can try a visual inspection first to see if you see anything obvious.

Bill
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Old 09-19-2012, 01:42 PM   #13
jojo69
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So here is the culprit:

The inner lip was off creating a leak.
Very easy find as soon as the tmic was off.

Did 2 pulls (will post logs later) hitting 15.5*16peak boost and no more woosh sound!! :-)
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:30 PM   #14
bacalhau16
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Dumbest coupling ever.

Show that pic to your dealership and say thanks for the help. (although, provoking your dealership may not be the wisest idea. lol )
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:16 PM   #15
jojo69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bacalhau16 View Post
Dumbest coupling ever.

Show that pic to your dealership and say thanks for the help. (although, provoking your dealership may not be the wisest idea. lol )

yes! I will tell the tech guy what/where the cause was, but I will try to do so in a nice way... I don't want to irk them as I will be going there again. As you said, no need to piss them off, but there may be a valuable lesson there for them too



Here are 2 logs taken after the fix (if Bill or anyone else savy wanna take a look and make sure it's appropriate):
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...mRpb3NOSUlsR3c

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...mYwcDlkZVVqWmc

I'm surprised to still see some Knock learning... A/F learning seems more congruent though... but I don't understand why it isn't "0" like it was on my first ever log (see 1st datalog in OP).
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Old 09-19-2012, 09:05 PM   #16
bacalhau16
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It will take some time for those values to reset. Get through this tank of gas, perhaps more, and do another log then.
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:08 PM   #17
jojo69
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Then, is it best to 'reset' the ecu or let it reset over time? ??
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:31 AM   #18
Cobb Tuning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jojo69 View Post
yes! I will tell the tech guy what/where the cause was, but I will try to do so in a nice way... I don't want to irk them as I will be going there again. As you said, no need to piss them off, but there may be a valuable lesson there for them too



Here are 2 logs taken after the fix (if Bill or anyone else savy wanna take a look and make sure it's appropriate):
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...mRpb3NOSUlsR3c

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...mYwcDlkZVVqWmc

I'm surprised to still see some Knock learning... A/F learning seems more congruent though... but I don't understand why it isn't "0" like it was on my first ever log (see 1st datalog in OP).
The long-term fuel trims are zero when you reflash a map because all the learned parmeters of the ECU are reset when you do this. Since you've attempted a fix related to the extreme fuel trims, you will want to reset the ECU via the troubleshooting menu on the AccessPORT. This will put each range at zero and allow you to see how they populate through about a tank of gas of normal driving (to make sure there aren't any further issues).

Bill
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