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Old 06-25-2008, 12:48 AM   #1
Hayaboosted
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Default Anyone ever install New Oil Seal And Have it Leak?

Hey guys just curious I recently completely rebuilt my engine.. well today i get it in and start it and oil starts spitting out pretty constantly during idle. Looking at it when its running out badly right behind the oil pan. It obviously that main seal. Right? Anyways when i rebuilt the engine I installed a new main seal.. did i install it incorectly? I thought i had it in there straight.

Does anyone know if it ok to start the engine with the transmission off? I just wanna see if it leaks after i install a new seal. And or if i can get the one thats in it to seat better.,
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Old 06-25-2008, 06:35 AM   #2
MattPersman
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usually if it leaks when new it was misinstalled. torn a little on the lip or the spring got knocked off. you can run with out a trans, don't hit the clutch pedal, just bypass the pedal switch to start it.
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Old 06-25-2008, 07:46 AM   #3
arch4life
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is the turbo old or new? i've seen bad turbo problems cause newly built engine owners to think they did somthing wrong...
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Old 06-25-2008, 08:16 AM   #4
DZnutz
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u sure it isnt the oil pan?
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Old 06-25-2008, 12:03 PM   #5
Hayaboosted
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Not the turbo.. Its brand new. 200 miles. The oil pan not it either.. Its leaking from behind the engine..
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Old 06-25-2008, 01:11 PM   #6
wrx_driver_2002
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How far did you push the rear main seal in? Did you push it in until it stopped moving, or did you push it in until it was flush with the block?

installing rear main seals can be a pain in the ass. I've caught the lip on the crank before and folded the lip over, I've seen them pushed in too far, and I've seen them bent from the installer using a flathead screw driver to install them.

Aside from the rear main seal, there are two other things the leak could be. there is a wrist pin access cover on the left side of the block in the rear, and then there is an oil separator plate on the right side of the block. The separator plate gets sealed with silicone, and the wrist pin cover gets an o-ring.

It could be any of those leaking, however I would put my money on either the rear main seal or the oil pan because you say it's a constant leak. I would also check to make sure the turbo oil pressure fitting on the head is tight and that the oil return line is in the hose correctly . They in a place that if the they were lose or was leaking, could make it appear like the rear main seal was leaking.
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Old 06-25-2008, 01:40 PM   #7
Hayaboosted
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrx_driver_2002 View Post
How far did you push the rear main seal in? Did you push it in until it stopped moving, or did you push it in until it was flush with the block?

installing rear main seals can be a pain in the ass. I've caught the lip on the crank before and folded the lip over, I've seen them pushed in too far, and I've seen them bent from the installer using a flathead screw driver to install them.

Aside from the rear main seal, there are two other things the leak could be. there is a wrist pin access cover on the left side of the block in the rear, and then there is an oil separator plate on the right side of the block. The separator plate gets sealed with silicone, and the wrist pin cover gets an o-ring.

It could be any of those leaking, however I would put my money on either the rear main seal or the oil pan because you say it's a constant leak. I would also check to make sure the turbo oil pressure fitting on the head is tight and that the oil return line is in the hose correctly . They in a place that if the they were lose or was leaking, could make it appear like the rear main seal was leaking.
Ya im going to go pull the motor again. The bolts were all tight cause i first removed the turbo to check where the leak was from and i always check the return line after installing the turbo from the bottom to insure its fully on. I did use silicon on the plate so i dont think thats the case. This thing dumps out very fast and consistantly. Im going with the main seal.
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Old 06-25-2008, 05:31 PM   #8
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So how far do you install it? Mine is all the way inside.. its not flush? Is it just suppose to be flush?
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Old 06-25-2008, 05:32 PM   #9
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btw yes its the seal! Just need to know how far the new one goes in.
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Old 06-25-2008, 06:10 PM   #10
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IF you push it all the way in, it won't seal against the part of the crank that it was designed to seal against. The rear main seal is designed to be installed flush with the block, along with ever other seal (Cam seals and front crank / oil pump seal) in the engine.
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Old 06-25-2008, 11:41 PM   #11
Hayaboosted
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Fixed it.. No problems with it flush
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Old 01-07-2009, 07:50 PM   #12
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Brining an old thread back. Getting ready to swap in a 06 Sti long block and my buddy thought it would be a good idea to change the rear main seal. When installing the seal back in it needs to be flush with the block coorrect? Hayaboosted has your seal leaked anymore?
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Old 01-17-2010, 07:53 PM   #13
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I got something to add since I just did this myself

I started the new rebuild yesterday and it had a pretty good oil leak from the bellhousing. So I pulled the engine out to find that I pressed the rear main seal way to deep. Hell every other seal I have installed worked fine when bottomed out.


Anyway, here is another seal installed correctly and no leaks. Lesson learned and one I will not forget.
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Old 01-18-2010, 07:50 PM   #14
Hayaboosted
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Hey bud.. set it even like shown in the pic above... and it doesnt hurt just to ass a little bead of RVT around the edge.. Mine HAS NOT leaked since doing so! Good luck bud!
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Old 06-02-2010, 09:41 PM   #15
pieces
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Suck, I ended up pushing mine in too deep too.
Sorry to dredge this back up. Anyone got tricks to pull it back out a little after going too far or are you pretty much stuck buying a new one?

No subie dealer near me any more. Would like to get everything in this weekend and finish if I can. So any tricks would be great.
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Old 06-02-2010, 11:47 PM   #16
john 1badSTI
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no you will definitely damage it getting it out,if you need one I have a bunch of new ones from multiple kits.Pm me your address and I will send you one no charge to help you out but I don't think I can get it to you till beginning of next week even if I get it in the mail tomorrow. good luck
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Old 06-03-2010, 02:25 PM   #17
Hayaboosted
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The trick to get them out is at autozone.. They have what looks like a cork screw with a wire on it.. screw it in.. pull it out.. and replace it with new!
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Old 06-03-2010, 10:45 PM   #18
jaironsti
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did the same crap with the seal
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Old 04-18-2012, 02:06 PM   #19
Tommy2k
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just rebuilt my motor and did the same thing....
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Old 05-28-2012, 10:13 PM   #20
venom225
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just installed mine on my shortblock ive got a tiny lip on my rear main seal sticking out past the block so im wondering if it should be a hair further back than what it currently is. wanna get it right so I dont have to pull the SOB out again! take a look

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Old 04-08-2013, 12:58 AM   #21
code3suby
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So I just had the same crap happen, however it happened after my 100 mile break in point when I switched to synthetic.... #%*!#(@$ it also seems to only happen when the car is off.
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