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Old 12-24-2012, 04:58 PM   #51
DHRDAN
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worst video i have ever seen in 2012 you own a car. how do you **** up this "???


herp derp.... i post a ****ty video.


I wanna know how you think is this okay... herp derp.. i want help... herp derp... here is a ****tty video.




god you kids are ****ing dumb.
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Old 12-24-2012, 05:01 PM   #52
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You're still around?
yes... i drop knowledge.
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Old 12-24-2012, 06:10 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHRDAN View Post
worst video i have ever seen in 2012 you own a car. how do you **** up this "???


herp derp.... i post a ****ty video.


I wanna know how you think is this okay... herp derp.. i want help... herp derp... here is a ****tty video.




god you kids are ****ing dumb.
lol...

Oh you're the idiot that said the factory Z4 tune was limited to 5,000rpm on page one. I think that's all that needs to be said to show who is ****ing dumb, "kid".

Last edited by Merko; 12-25-2012 at 02:32 AM.
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Old 12-24-2012, 11:12 PM   #54
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GD Coilpack conversion done. Car still cutting...

Gonna try spark plugs next. Even though they were only a couple of months old when the cutting started.
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Old 12-25-2012, 10:08 PM   #55
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GD Coilpack conversion done. Car still cutting...

Gonna try spark plugs next. Even though they were only a couple of months old when the cutting started.
We have the exact some problem, so let's work together on this.

It's not plugs, I've done them twice to make sure.

How do you know your MAF is good? I had the vent off so it got wet right when I put the motor in my RS. I was going easy on it for the first 500 miles, and it was a brand new MAF, but since I didn't run WOT for 500 miles, idk if it had the problem at first or not.

I'm going to replace mine under warranty and let you know what happens. My other MAF speculation was possibly maxing it out, although I don't think I would be under stock boost. If a new one doesn't fix it I'm gonna put a potentiometer on it and dial it back bit by bit.

Another thought. If the car is running too lean under boost, the ECU may be fuel cutting. I doubt this is the problem though, cause it does it at wastegate psi and 12psi both. 93 octane could have a hair less octane than 97 RON (even though I run no ethanol), but stock tunes run pig rich, so I can't see that being the problem.

I'm getting the Innovate wideband AFR soon, so I'll be able to eliminate that as an option then.

Sorry for writing a book, just sharing my thoughts.
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Old 12-25-2012, 11:25 PM   #56
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Are any you of you able to use Evoscan or similar to log EVERYTHING to find out what changes when the cut happens?
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Old 12-25-2012, 11:25 PM   #57
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Double post
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:26 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GGSimpreza View Post
We have the exact some problem, so let's work together on this.

It's not plugs, I've done them twice to make sure.

How do you know your MAF is good? I had the vent off so it got wet right when I put the motor in my RS. I was going easy on it for the first 500 miles, and it was a brand new MAF, but since I didn't run WOT for 500 miles, idk if it had the problem at first or not.

I'm going to replace mine under warranty and let you know what happens. My other MAF speculation was possibly maxing it out, although I don't think I would be under stock boost. If a new one doesn't fix it I'm gonna put a potentiometer on it and dial it back bit by bit.

Another thought. If the car is running too lean under boost, the ECU may be fuel cutting. I doubt this is the problem though, cause it does it at wastegate psi and 12psi both. 93 octane could have a hair less octane than 97 RON (even though I run no ethanol), but stock tunes run pig rich, so I can't see that being the problem.

I'm getting the Innovate wideband AFR soon, so I'll be able to eliminate that as an option then.

Sorry for writing a book, just sharing my thoughts.
You know I've had this issue for so long now that I can't even remember how I know the AFM is good. I think at the beginning the guy that had a look at the car put a spare in and it solved nothing. Pretty sure the Power FC figures also showed it was good from what I recall the guy telling me.

The car isn't leaning out. Before my AEM UEGO died (never buying AEM again - the gauge (not the sensor) started malfunctioning 2-3 weeks after installation. $190 down the drain), I was getting figures of 10-10.5:1 under boost so it's a bit rich as you said. Also I only run 98RON fuel so fuel isn't an issue.

Seeing as I have some time now in the holiday season I'll change the plugs in the next week just to be 100% sure it's not them. The car is booked in to see an auto electrician on the 8th of January so fingers crossed he can solve it, otherwise I don't know what else to do. But if you manage to solve yours in the meantime, I'm all ears!

Quote:
Originally Posted by pmugabi View Post
Are any you of you able to use Evoscan or similar to log EVERYTHING to find out what changes when the cut happens?
I don't even know what an Evoscan is so no As to the person asking for the Power FC readout, unfortunately I wasn't there when it was done so that will be impossible too

On another note, although the GD coil pack conversion didn't solve anything, unless it's just a placebo effect, the car seems to be a bit smoother at very low revs, and seems to fire up with less cranking when starting it up
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Old 12-28-2012, 06:34 PM   #59
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Keep me updated dude. If it's not fuel or spark, the MAF seems like it may be getting maxed out. I'm gonna find a potentiometer and see if that fixes my issue.

Also, are you running the stock boost solenoid or no? I am not, however I put a resistor in that plug and it fixed the problem for a few days until I turned boost up from 9psi to 12psi. Maybe the problem is still with that plug resistance.
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Old 12-29-2012, 06:32 AM   #60
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Manual boost controller.

Also changed plugs now. No improvement.
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Old 12-29-2012, 08:35 AM   #61
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Manual boost controller.

Also changed plugs now. No improvement.
Do you have a resister or anything plugged up where the stock BCS was? I think this is our problem. I put a 22 ohm resistor in and it fixed the problem for a while, but now its back to doing the same thing. I'm gonna switch out the resistor and let you know what happens.

If the car thinks that it's making boost and has no way of controlling it, the loss of power makes sense.
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:40 PM   #62
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Merko, I need to know if you have the stock boost control solenoid hooked up. I don't, but I have a resistor in the plug at 22 ohms. It was measured to be 21.5 ohms.
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:52 PM   #63
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The electrical plugs are connected, but the air hoses are blocked off (I have the 3-port solenoid). This shouldn't be the issue. It was working perfectly like this for months. And if it was in fact causing the problem, an ECU reset should fix it at least temporarily.
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:08 AM   #64
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Update: Auto electrician couldn't find problem... probably because they couldn't do any testing with the car actually cutting as they don't have a dyno. Apparently they checked all they could with the car stationary but saw no issues.

FFS
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:32 AM   #65
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Well it only happens under load. Checking it stationary is pointless.

Try running a larger gauge wire to your fuel pump. It is the furthest from the power source in the circuit. My tuner says even though the 255 is a 12v pump, it won't see 12v unless you run a 10 gauge power to it.

I would've tried this but I haven't put my 255 in yet.

Also, I'm gonna put my plug gap at half of what it should be stock, just so I can definitely rule out that the spark is getting blown out.
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Old 01-08-2013, 02:54 PM   #66
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Check for rips/holes in the softline from your fuel pump inside the tank.


That sidelined my car for the better part of 2 years.
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Old 01-08-2013, 04:53 PM   #67
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Check for rips/holes in the softline from your fuel pump inside the tank.


That sidelined my car for the better part of 2 years.
Did it have the same problem we're having?

And Merko, I've realized mine doesn't have to be at 5,500 RPM to have the issue. I can drop it into 4th on the interstate and punch it (About 4,200) and the car will fall on its face due to the load.
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:50 PM   #68
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no. But it's something that's easy enough to check.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:41 PM   #69
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Well it only happens under load. Checking it stationary is pointless.
Which is why I'm wondering why the hell they even took the car if they knew they weren't going to be able to test it properly. Easy $74 that's why. Pricks. My regular WRX mechanic was the one that took it there so I only spoke to them on the phone. Guy was a rude aggressive dickhead when I was politely asking details of the job and questioning why they did or didn't do certain things. I hate commercial mechanics...

Guess it's dyno time next. If that doesn't work I'm gonna strip the car of my aftermarket parts, sell it, buy a 2000 model GC8 and put my parts back on.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:21 PM   #70
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Which is why I'm wondering why the hell they even took the car if they knew they weren't going to be able to test it properly. Easy $74 that's why. Pricks. My regular WRX mechanic was the one that took it there so I only spoke to them on the phone. Guy was a rude aggressive dickhead when I was politely asking details of the job and questioning why they did or didn't do certain things. I hate commercial mechanics...

Guess it's dyno time next. If that doesn't work I'm gonna strip the car of my aftermarket parts, sell it, buy a 2000 model GC8 and put my parts back on.
Try the fuel pump wiring first!
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Old 01-31-2013, 05:11 PM   #71
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Subscribed for results.

I have this exact same issue all of a sudden on an 06 LGT. Stage 2 tune for about 5000 miles. Took car in for 90K service items and had new OEM spec NGK plugs, accessory belts, LWCP, and fluids done. First WOT after this service (couple days later), and I now have this issue. Only at WOT, full load around 5K RPM, and it cuts. Logging shows the MRP going deep into vacuum as if the throttle plate shuts immediately despite 100% requested throttle. No CELs or codes whatsoever.

Mechanic says it isn't spark and was fuel. Replaced FP with a DW65C and inspected connections. This did not resolve the issue. He said it was the tune. Flashed a totally different stage 2 tune (pre Process West TMIC), and the problem persisted through both tunes. This also ruled out corruption in the ECU. Battery voltage looks good through the pulls in the logs as well.

I'm continuing my research and have posted for suggestions over at legacygt.com. So far no smoking gun yet. If I come up with solution I'll report back here.
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Old 02-14-2013, 04:58 AM   #72
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Subscribed for results.

I have this exact same issue all of a sudden on an 06 LGT. Stage 2 tune for about 5000 miles. Took car in for 90K service items and had new OEM spec NGK plugs, accessory belts, LWCP, and fluids done. First WOT after this service (couple days later), and I now have this issue. Only at WOT, full load around 5K RPM, and it cuts. Logging shows the MRP going deep into vacuum as if the throttle plate shuts immediately despite 100% requested throttle. No CELs or codes whatsoever.

Mechanic says it isn't spark and was fuel. Replaced FP with a DW65C and inspected connections. This did not resolve the issue. He said it was the tune. Flashed a totally different stage 2 tune (pre Process West TMIC), and the problem persisted through both tunes. This also ruled out corruption in the ECU. Battery voltage looks good through the pulls in the logs as well.

I'm continuing my research and have posted for suggestions over at legacygt.com. So far no smoking gun yet. If I come up with solution I'll report back here.
Yes please do!

Unfortunately mine is still stuffed, haven't had the willpower to screw with it any more recently :P

I will bite the bullet in the next month or 2 and give it to the highly regarded Subaru performance guys in my city so they can put it on the dyno and screw around with it while charging me an arm and a leg. I am 90% sure they won't be able to solve it either... hence why I've held off so long lol.

But if I ever solve it, I will report back too!
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:19 AM   #73
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Merko, did you ever swap the AFM for a known working one, or to check when at 5000 RPM, the AFM isn't hitting it's maximum reading?

I see you're from Aus, if you want more brains to pick, sign up on Clubsub.org.nz. New Zealand's biggest Subaru enthusiasts.
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Old 02-14-2013, 06:54 PM   #74
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Didn't swap the AFM, but the power FC showed the voltages at full power and the AFM wasn't ever even remotely close to maxing out. And thanks
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:51 AM   #75
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Yeah, I know the MAF is bad on my car, but it's under warranty so I'm taking it off and shipping it back. Just gotta wait til it's warm enough here to ride my FZ1 while the rex is out of commission.

It'll be another month or so before I end up replacing my MAF. I'm just gonna wait and go from there.

This is so dang weird. Also, it's way worse when the car's not warmed up. I never run my car hard until its warm, but I just had to see.
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