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Old 11-23-2008, 10:20 PM   #1
beaviscih
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Sold, '04 STi - Sold

Default My First Swap: '98L 2.2L to EJ20G

See Post 233 For Tuning Results

I'm a complete n00b when it comes to swaps, but I felt it was time to take on my own project. My '04 STi was professionally built and while I've done some tinkering, this by far is my biggest endeavor mechanically. Up to today, I'd never removed/added more than a few bolt on's. Onto the project...

'98L 2.2L/5MT (cable clutch)
What's going in:
'96EJ20G w/46k miles (donor from a GF chassis)
Matching JDM 5MT
TD05H turbo replacing the stocker TD04
Power FC w/ boost controller and Datalogit
GT Spec Headers
DW 650cc injectors with Carl Davey adapters
USDM STi oil pan
Undecided on the I/C, but I'm not wild about the slanty, but thinking about one of the eBay versions - this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=
'03 WRX rear brakes
'01 RS rear 4.11 rear diff
AGX Struts w/ Swift Springs
'03 WRX Rear Sway Bar
'03 WRX Wagon Front Sway Bar
Whiteline Sway Bar Endlinks

Here are some pics (motor pulled today - first time I've pulled a motor ). I'll update as the project continues, questions and comments welcome. Here are a few links I used to pull the motor...

http://www.rs25.com/forums/showthrea...ght=Pull+Motor
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1301065



Looking to make about the same power as the STi's break-in tune (~260 plus a little)







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Last edited by beaviscih; 07-05-2009 at 01:20 PM.
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Old 11-23-2008, 10:29 PM   #2
beaviscih
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Sold, '04 STi - Sold

Default

A few more pictures...




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Old 11-24-2008, 03:40 PM   #3
demartinoink
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subscribed!
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Old 11-28-2008, 05:24 PM   #4
Txoutlaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demartinoink View Post
subscribed!
+1

What's up with the Luvs box? incontinency?
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Old 11-30-2008, 07:03 PM   #5
beaviscih
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Txoutlaw View Post
+1

What's up with the Luvs box? incontinency?
I ran out of Depends...

I have made some more progress, but expect to make a big dent this week.
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Old 11-30-2008, 11:32 PM   #6
damonmlime
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you stole my swap! I was watching that on ebay but it went for more than I was willing to pay. I got one with a little higher mileage but a little less money. G/L I plan on putting mine in an 00rs. Are you going to wire it up yourself?
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Old 12-01-2008, 09:34 AM   #7
beaviscih
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Are you going to wire it up yourself?
Nope, I'm sending it to Zephyr and let him do it. I don't have the skills for this work.
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Old 12-02-2008, 04:38 PM   #8
shadowmd
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nice project
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Old 12-02-2008, 06:01 PM   #9
beaviscih
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Suspension tools - breaker bar with a 2' cheater!




While I'll be adding Whiteline tie rods and JDM aluminum control arms, I still marked the alignment to give me a starting point once I get the car back together.

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Old 12-02-2008, 06:11 PM   #10
beaviscih
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Default

Carpet removed. I even found some buried treasure which will help off set the cost of the project.




Ebrake cables removed so I can remove the drums and swap in the rear disks.



I picked up the '98L shop manual from a local dealership for $25 - a must have for first timers removing a dash. I normally use a screw driver to remove the plastic tabs, but I picked up this tab removal tool set at Harbor Freight for $7.




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Old 12-02-2008, 07:05 PM   #11
beaviscih
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Default

I stared at the wiring for a good while trying to figure out the best way to remove the bulk head harness and it appears the best / only way to remove it is to pull the dash beam and HVAC unit. If someone else knows a better way, please let me know.
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Old 12-02-2008, 07:41 PM   #12
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impressive. subscribed.
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Old 12-03-2008, 08:47 AM   #13
Txoutlaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beaviscih View Post
If someone else knows a better way, please let me know.
Cutting torch?

Lord that looks like a mess but you are definitely making progress. Man I am proud of you! About 2 years ago you started with a simple turbo back swap now look at you!

Stay focused....wax on....wax off....wax on.....wax off.....
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Old 12-03-2008, 12:14 PM   #14
Zephyr
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Few cars in my day

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Quote:
Originally Posted by beaviscih View Post
I stared at the wiring for a good while trying to figure out the best way to remove the bulk head harness and it appears the best / only way to remove it is to pull the dash beam and HVAC unit. If someone else knows a better way, please let me know.
There is only one way, remove the dash bar and the HVAC unit. You'll need a Torx T-40 security bit to remove the airbag stuff or vise grips.

Z
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Old 12-03-2008, 03:30 PM   #15
beaviscih
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Sold, '04 STi - Sold

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zephyr View Post
There is only one way, remove the dash bar and the HVAC unit. You'll need a Torx T-40 security bit to remove the airbag stuff or vise grips.

Z

That's what I thought. I've got the bar removed and everything disconnected, now I just need to pull the HVAC unit.
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Old 12-03-2008, 07:16 PM   #16
beaviscih
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Txoutlaw View Post
Cutting torch?

About 2 years ago you started with a simple turbo back swap now look at you!
Taking crap off is easy, putting it back correctly is the tough part.

Progress today - Exhaust, drive shaft, drums, dash beam, HVAC, bulk head harness and pedal assembly removed. Here are some pictures. I used colored zip ties attached to the plugs to aid during the re-install (TXOutlaw's idea). I used 5 colors in various combinations. While many of the plugs are obvious, it should minimize hunting for the right plug.







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Old 12-03-2008, 09:30 PM   #17
Txoutlaw
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Impressive Bill! You have accomplished a lot over the last few days. I see you drug out the ole air compressor. Pneumatic tools rock!
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Old 12-03-2008, 09:53 PM   #18
beaviscih
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Txoutlaw View Post
Impressive Bill! You have accomplished a lot over the last few days. I see you drug out the ole air compressor. Pneumatic tools rock!
The air tools really came in handy today and should help when I drop the rear assembly tomorrow and possibly the front. Unfortunately I'm starting to run out space in the garage.
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Old 12-04-2008, 10:54 PM   #19
beaviscih
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Sold, '04 STi - Sold

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I managed to get the front cross member dropped and dismantled. One of the A-arm bolts and a cross member nut kicked my ass (and I broke my second POS Harbor Freight breaker bar), but I managed to get them off without stripping anything. I ended up using a ratchet strap attached to the front tow hook and the other end attached to a wrench. Unfortunately I didn't have a 6 point socket for my 1/2" breaker bar, so I had to go ghetto style. Both "L" front axle boots were torn and I swear there must have been two pounds of grease on the cross member, you can see how much is on the body right above the tranny support.






Once I removed the "L" cross member, I removed the rack and pinion and then found out my STi cross member had knawled threads for one of the Pinion bolts, so I had to break out the die kit to make it right. I still need to go back with some thread sealant on the bolt, but I manged to get it assembled.



"L" vs. STi cross member



Die kit



I had to rig up my die tool since it was too short, so I put some TP on a female extension since the extension was too large and that seemed to do the trick.



Rack and pinion installed.



Parts removed and either going up for sale or directly to the scrap yard (except for the radiator and WRX rear diff housing).


Last edited by beaviscih; 12-04-2008 at 11:05 PM.
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Old 12-04-2008, 10:58 PM   #20
beaviscih
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I didn't take any pictures of the tie rods, but those bastards are doing a number on me. I managed to break the retaining nut loose, but I have not been able to break the tie rods loose so I can install the Whiteline kit. I'll try and use a ratchet strap on the wrench tomorrow and hopefully that will break them loose. If I would have been thinking correctly, I would have busted these loose while they were still on the car as I probably would have had a better leverage point.
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Old 12-04-2008, 11:08 PM   #21
moclakens
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subscribed
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Old 12-05-2008, 11:42 PM   #22
beaviscih
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Sold, '04 STi - Sold

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I manged to get the OEM tie rods removed and new ones installed. After 10 years I guess they were a little rusty. I borrowed a tie rod tool from a local auto parts store. While I didn't use it as intended, it worked none the less.

I installed the JDM control arms and started to install the end links but remembered I ordered bought the wrong ones, but the correct set will be in next week. I finally got around to pulling the transmission, so now I can get under the car and clean up all the grease and dirt. Here are a few photos from today's work.

Tie Rod Tool:



Pinion Cleaned and Ready for New Tie Rod (Plenty of Anti-seize):


New Whitline Tie Rod Installed:


WL vs. OEM Tie Rod:


Trans Out:


Last edited by beaviscih; 12-05-2008 at 11:48 PM.
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Old 12-05-2008, 11:52 PM   #23
slava from goshen
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looks good so far.

hmm....those whiteline tie rods look good.
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Old 12-06-2008, 12:03 AM   #24
beaviscih
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slava from goshen View Post
looks good so far.

hmm....those whiteline tie rods look good.
I liked what I read about them and got them for a good price , so I thought I'd given them a try. Hopefully I will notice a positive difference.
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Old 12-06-2008, 10:20 PM   #25
beaviscih
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I had to take time and clean up the garage today, it was getting difficult to move around all the crap. I did manage swap over the "L" speedo cable to the JDM Trans, clean up the grease in the engine bay and drop the rear end assembly.

Speedo Cables: JDM cable speedo on left




Engine Bay As Clean As It's Going to Get:


Front Cross Member Ready to Reinstall:


Rear End Drop:





Last edited by beaviscih; 12-06-2008 at 10:27 PM.
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