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Old 11-01-2008, 12:44 AM   #1
coast_rider
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Default Problems with radio/fob doorlocks/interior lights

After installing some new interior bulbs I tried to turn them on and nothing, so I take them out, reinstall them and try again but still nothing.

I decide to give up on it for the night, leave the car and hit the door lock on the key fob and nothing, no response. That made me worry a bit so I hopped in the car and made sure the ignition lights were working still, then turned her over and all dash lights are ok, although the cd player wasn't lit up or feeding any music through.

So far I have:
*checked all the fuses in the interior fuse box (except for the airbag fuses)
*checked some of the fuses in the fuse box under the hood
*confirmed that the car still is in working order/ isn't throwing a code.

Any suggestions on fuses that I should focus in on, or what step to take next would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 11-01-2008, 02:34 PM   #2
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bump for any reply
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Old 11-01-2008, 04:46 PM   #3
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FIXED!

Thanks nasioc.
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:37 PM   #4
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Can I ask how you fixed it? I'm having the same problem and I don't know where to start.
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:40 PM   #5
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The most likely spot for the trouble is a blown fuse. A lot of folks mistake a bad fuse for a good one. The best way to make sure they are good is use a test light probe and check the slits on top of each side of the fuse and make sure power is getting to it.
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cougar4 View Post
The most likely spot for the trouble is a blown fuse. A lot of folks mistake a bad fuse for a good one. The best way to make sure they are good is use a test light probe and check the slits on top of each side of the fuse and make sure power is getting to it.
I've checked all the fuses in the cabin twice with a test light and they are all good. I have blown fuse under the hood that I don't have a spare of. It's the clock/room fuse. That's really the only problem I can find.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:05 PM   #7
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Well you found the problem. The room fuse provides power to the interior lights and other things. Well let me rephrase that. You found out why the things aren't getting power to them. There still could be a short on the line causing a problem for the fuse to blow.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:18 PM   #8
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Well you found the problem. The room fuse provides power to the interior lights and other things. Well let me rephrase that. You found out why the things aren't getting power to them. There still could be a short on the line causing a problem for the fuse to blow.
Well I think I blew the fuse trying to install a boost gauge. I must have done something. In any case I'm going to get the gauges professionally installed.
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:23 AM   #9
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Connecting the gauges electrically isn't real difficult. The one thing to realize is the lighting for them needs to isolated from ground. The lights need to be in series with the illumination control module which is on the return side of the light circuit so the intensity is controlled.
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:38 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cougar4 View Post
Connecting the gauges electrically isn't real difficult. The one thing to realize is the lighting for them needs to isolated from ground. The lights need to be in series with the illumination control module which is on the return side of the light circuit so the intensity is controlled.
I didn't think it would be difficult but I had problems. I used fuse taps and connected the 12v constant to the door looks, the 12v switched to the radio and the illumination to the illumi fuse. Gauges didn't work. I think I may have blown the fuse while installing and that's why but I already took it all apart.
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:47 AM   #11
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A lot of folks use the illumination leads going to the clock to tie in their new gauges.

You need to make sure that the illumination leads of your new gauges are isolated ground and if they are then they can be added to the illumination circuit for the gauges and not the room. That is a different circuit I believe. The wires for the gauges use a violet colored wire for the power side and a orange wire for the return side.
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Old 03-21-2013, 12:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cougar4 View Post
A lot of folks use the illumination leads going to the clock to tie in their new gauges.

You need to make sure that the illumination leads of your new gauges are isolated ground and if they are then they can be added to the illumination circuit for the gauges and not the room. That is a different circuit I believe. The wires for the gauges use a violet colored wire for the power side and a orange wire for the return side.
So would I be using the switched 12v wire from the gauge for lighting? I'm using prosport gauges and honestly this is my first attempt at installing gauges.
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Old 03-21-2013, 05:52 PM   #13
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The switched power for the gauges is a different circuit than the dash illumination circuit is, which your gauge lights need to be connected to, and are also isolated from ground.
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:09 PM   #14
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Quote:
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The switched power for the gauges is a different circuit than the dash illumination circuit is, which your gauge lights need to be connected to, and are also isolated from ground.
Forgive me for having a hard time understanding this, I need to wire the gauge illumination to the dash illumination and then ground it? Or do I need to wire the gauge to the ground side of the dash illumination? I know that once this clicks I'm going to feel like an idiot.
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:16 PM   #15
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No problem. Understanding things like this takes some time if your not used to it. It really is pretty easy to understand when you get used to things.

The dash illumination uses a control system that is in series connection to the dash lights on the return, or ground side of the circuit. This means the return side of the lights does not tie directly to ground. The current needed to run the lights is controlled through the illumination control module and then to ground. So 12 volt fused power supplies current to the hot side of the lights, through the lamp filament, and then returns to the battery via the control module and then to chassis ground. Usually there is a violet wire used for the hot side and org or yel/orn wire tied to the return side of the lights which goes to the module. The module supplies the actual ground connection.
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:30 PM   #16
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Quote:
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No problem. Understanding things like this takes some time if your not used to it. It really is pretty easy to understand when you get used to things.

The dash illumination uses a control system that is in series connection to the dash lights on the return, or ground side of the circuit. This means the return side of the lights does not tie directly to ground. The current needed to run the lights is controlled through the illumination control module and then to ground. So 12 volt fused power supplies current to the hot side of the lights, through the lamp filament, and then returns to the battery via the control module and then to chassis ground. Usually there is a violet wire used for the hot side and org or yel/orn wire tied to the return side of the lights which goes to the module. The module supplies the actual ground connection.
I think I get what your saying. My gauges are supposed to light up white with my dash lights off then blue when they turn on. I could only get the blue lights. I at first wired them to the clock pod and couldn't get that to work so then I thought maybe to the radio. Still couldn't so I figured that if I used a fuse tap to the illumination fuse that would have worked. Well it didn't. I guess I should have said this earlier. I'm fine if they will only display the blue color but it would be nice to have that function working properly.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:03 PM   #17
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Well you first need to find out if the lighting for the gauges has two wires to supply power to them and they both need to be isolated from the ground wire used to power the gauges. If they share a common ground then you can't connect the lights to the dimmer circuit. They will just be white at full intensity. There are conversion modules available I think.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:19 PM   #18
Chazual
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cougar4 View Post
Well you first need to find out if the lighting for the gauges has two wires to supply power to them and they both need to be isolated from the ground wire used to power the gauges. If they share a common ground then you can't connect the lights to the dimmer circuit. They will just be white at full intensity. There are conversion modules available I think.
There is just one wire for the illumination. That's why I'm so confused with why I'm having so much difficulty.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:31 PM   #19
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Ok. You can't tie your gauge lighting in with your dash lighting. It just needs to go to the same power you use for the gauge power.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:46 PM   #20
Chazual
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Ok. You can't tie your gauge lighting in with your dash lighting. It just needs to go to the same power you use for the gauge power.
Okay. Thanks for the help! Really appreciate it.
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