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Old 09-29-2012, 08:21 PM   #1
gtasti
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Default Crawford aos v2 still getting blow by ?

I've seen a few story's of these still letting blow by..

It's not a lot I removed my bpv and noticed small film of oil

My car is running 400whp so question is is there better options that work either catch can or aos

Thanks for any input
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Old 09-30-2012, 01:09 AM   #2
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Blow by is not the same as what you are talking about. Blow by is something completely different, but has effects on the crank case pressure, which can cause more oil consumption. If you have excessive blow by this could be the answer as to why, but we would need compression & leak down numbers to verify that.

Better yet, answer these
-How built is this engine?
-Who set the engine up, clearances.... ect.?
-How many miles on this engine?
-What weight oil are you running?
-How is the AOS return hose routed? (its commonly not routed properly)
-How much oil are you going through in 3k mile span?
-What kind of abuse does this engine see?

Oil film in the intake is normal, puddles of oil in the intake in a short amount of time with a AOS would be something to be concerned with. But, pleas get back to us with MORE info like Im requesting here, add more info if you want. But we can help you much with out that
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Old 09-30-2012, 01:28 AM   #3
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I installed my Crawford unit when I changed to the process west top mount, the stock STI top mount had oil in it, ive had the new tmic on for over a year and there is no film or any trace of oil. Maybe you have it hooked up wrong.
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Old 09-30-2012, 01:36 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CobbsSTI View Post
I installed my Crawford unit when I changed to the process west top mount, the stock STI top mount had oil in it, ive had the new tmic on for over a year and there is no film or any trace of oil. Maybe you have it hooked up wrong.
You have a built engine, or a stock one making 400hp like OP? probably not if you have zero consumption.

Plenty of track cars have the crawford AOS, it doesnt eliminate the presence of oil, but really reduces it. Street cars that are drivin under normal or common use, tend to get zero oil in the intake system or likewise with a crawford set up. But 400hp range, i doubt you just putt around town.... so dont be alarmed by the "film".
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Old 09-30-2012, 01:51 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UK-Wagon
You have a built engine, or a stock one making 400hp like OP? probably not if you have zero consumption.

Plenty of track cars have the crawford AOS, it doesnt eliminate the presence of oil, but really reduces it.
Actually I do track the car, it makes 450hp and the IC, bov and throttle body are bone dry. Most of the time this isn't the case but its seems to be working exceptionally well in my case. As for consumption it does consume some but I didn't think consumption is what op was talking about.
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Old 09-30-2012, 06:58 AM   #6
gtasti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UK-Wagon View Post
Blow by is not the same as what you are talking about. Blow by is something completely different, but has effects on the crank case pressure, which can cause more oil consumption. If you have excessive blow by this could be the answer as to why, but we would need compression & leak down numbers to verify that.

Better yet, answer these
-How built is this engine?
-Who set the engine up, clearances.... ect.?
-How many miles on this engine?
-What weight oil are you running?
-How is the AOS return hose routed? (its commonly not routed properly)
-How much oil are you going through in 3k mile span?
-What kind of abuse does this engine see?

Oil film in the intake is normal, puddles of oil in the intake in a short amount of time with a AOS would be something to be concerned with. But, pleas get back to us with MORE info like Im requesting here, add more info if you want. But we can help you much with out that
Bottom end is built heads just stg 2 cams and refreshed
Gordon bush set it all up not 100% sure on the cleaences
4000 miles street driven so far
Last oil changed used 300v
The return hose is straight across then down no kink
Wouldn't say more then half a liter
Street driven car not daily so when I do take it out I tend to drive it hard
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Old 09-30-2012, 08:14 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtasti View Post
Bottom end is built heads just stg 2 cams and refreshed
Gordon bush set it all up not 100% sure on the cleaences
4000 miles street driven so far
Last oil changed used 300v
The return hose is straight across then down no kink
Wouldn't say more then half a liter
Street driven car not daily so when I do take it out I tend to drive it hard
300v...WHICH 300v????

and if you say 5w30...kick yerself in the crotch for being stupid

go from there
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Old 09-30-2012, 08:56 AM   #8
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I normally run 5 40 pretty sure that's what it is

What's wrong with 5/30 tho
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Old 09-30-2012, 03:18 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
300v...WHICH 300v????

and if you say 5w30...kick yerself in the crotch for being stupid

go from there
I CAN'T front.. Scottys the best
I ALWAYS look forward to his replies
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Old 09-30-2012, 03:37 PM   #10
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No AOS or catch can will keep oil out of your intake track if you are pushing oil through the seals into the compressor side. Just so you know it may not be from blowby. How are the second head vents connected on your setup... the ones that don't go to the AOS? How about your PCV too.
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Old 09-30-2012, 06:18 PM   #11
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5/40? In a built engine? I hope the builder did not tell you to run that, if he did, I would somewhat question his work if he did. Bump it up to a 10/30 or 10/40 semi-synthetic at best. Dont run full synthetic (this is my opinion). Semi synthetic works better in these engines. I could go on and on for days as to why, but thats a different topic. Just do it and you will see the difference. Clean the system out and make sure its dry when and if you make the switch.
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Old 09-30-2012, 06:46 PM   #12
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The turbo will always allow a little by pass. No way around it. It should only be a light film. I made my own inlet and there was 100% no way for any oil or anything to get into the turbo compressor since I removed the evap system, pcv valve, valve vents, cc vent, 3 port return, BPV return, etc etc. I always have a light film in the compressor outlet and first coupling. Down by the front of the FMIC it also builds up and becomes heavier that needs cleaning every now and again.

PS 09 and 11 vf52 turbos did this from day one so its not like I had two bad turbos.
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Old 09-30-2012, 08:46 PM   #13
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Old 09-30-2012, 11:04 PM   #14
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I have the Crawford AOS and with 400whp oil still makes it through. I vented it to atmosphere and a small amount of oil was still blowing out. So I made a DIY catch can that is hidden in the fender and vented the outlet in a spot that you can't smell the fumes while driving.
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Old 10-05-2012, 12:20 AM   #15
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Making 360/360 on a conservative tune on a GT30R with the Crawford AOS and haven't added oil in a long time... works great.

cheers,
dave
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:05 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UK-Wagon View Post
5/40? In a built engine? I hope the builder did not tell you to run that, if he did, I would somewhat question his work if he did. Bump it up to a 10/30 or 10/40 semi-synthetic at best. Dont run full synthetic (this is my opinion). Semi synthetic works better in these engines. I could go on and on for days as to why, but thats a different topic. Just do it and you will see the difference. Clean the system out and make sure its dry when and if you make the switch.
I dont understand this sentiment. It would be better to run 0w40 if you wanted to run a 40 weight. Even a 5w oil is going to be too viscous to lubricate the engine on cold start, heck even the 0w will be too thick at start to lube the engine. Because thats how oil film bearings work, its not a subaru specific thing. Unless these cars use rolling element crank bearings and no one told me yet.
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:23 AM   #17
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I took a look it's 15w50 300v but I'm going to switch to amsoil semi syntec my bro is a dealer of amsoil so

On topic what do you guys think of those aos with the filter in them ?
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:30 AM   #18
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Like this one?



I've used this exact one before, best catch can I've used in terms of filtering the oil out. But they fill up super fast because the can is tiny. I switched to an ebay can with custom baffles and I rand through a bunch of different baffle setups till I get to something as effective as that one. And that basically involved getting a sintered brass filter (like in that aos) and using that as part of the baffle in my other one.

Other trouble with that design is that once the oil level gets up to the filter you start siphoning the oil into the intake. Other downside is that the can is acrylic which will eventually fail in the presence of gas and oil.
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:49 AM   #19
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:31 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
I dont understand this sentiment. It would be better to run 0w40 if you wanted to run a 40 weight. Even a 5w oil is going to be too viscous to lubricate the engine on cold start, heck even the 0w will be too thick at start to lube the engine. Because thats how oil film bearings work, its not a subaru specific thing. Unless these cars use rolling element crank bearings and no one told me yet.


yew been readin too much online nonsense again

yeah...really

there is NO MAGIC OIL that is good at cold start and at operating temp

NONE



so ya gotta pick yer poison...and start the car and let the oil circulate a bit and THEN drive the car

but ya cant convince idiots of any of THIS either

so...in the end.....yer a f00
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:38 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
there is NO MAGIC OIL that is good at cold start and at operating temp

NONE
Exactly, but 0w40 is going to be able to work properly at lower temperatures than 15w40, if that's the difference between the engine running 10 minutes before the oil works and 20 minutes, that can make a big difference over the life of the car.
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:45 AM   #22
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Exactly, but 0w40 is going to be able to work properly at lower temperatures than 15w40, if that's the difference between the engine running 10 minutes before the oil works and 20 minutes, that can make a big difference over the life of the car.


d0000000000000000d....there are MILLIONS of vehicles on the road....BEEN on the road....for MANY-MANY years using all sorts of oils out there

YOU just THINK you know what is going on......just like all the rest
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:15 PM   #23
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On topic anyone using this
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