Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Sunday April 20, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
Click here to visit TireRack
Brakes & Suspension Forum sponsored by The Tire Rack

Losing traction? Need new tires?
Click here to visit the NASIOC Upgrade Garage...
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Brakes, Steering & Suspension

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-11-2012, 12:22 AM   #1
blknlow
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 295762
Join Date: Sep 2011
Default bad wheel bearing

I have searched up and down, and i keep finding all different kinds of answers. I have an 07 wrx TR, with a bad front passenger wheel bearing. What parts (part numbers would help) do i need to repair this. Is there a hub i can buy that has the bearings pre-pressed into it? Im completely confused and any positive input would be much appreciated. Thanks! - Mike.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
blknlow is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2012, 02:39 AM   #2
bushflyr
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 89628
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Hawaii, Oahu
Vehicle:
'02 Wagon VF39'd
& Quick Racked

Default

bushflyr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2012, 09:54 AM   #3
Aaron'z 2.5RS
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 1026
Join Date: Mar 2000
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Hickigan
Vehicle:
'00 RS/WRX Stg5
'98 RS Stock

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bushflyr View Post
Are you effin KIDDING.... 290 for parts... How much do those ARP lug studs cost?? (love them TIC guys, but that's NUTZ)



Seals and bearing and a new hub shouldn't cost more than 100... Last time I had a bearing and a hub pressed (I don't press, I do everything else) 120$ out the door...

That's inner/outter/dust seals, bearing and new hub and press job..
Aaron'z 2.5RS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2012, 09:56 AM   #4
Aaron'z 2.5RS
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 1026
Join Date: Mar 2000
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Hickigan
Vehicle:
'00 RS/WRX Stg5
'98 RS Stock

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by blknlow View Post
I have searched up and down, and i keep finding all different kinds of answers. I have an 07 wrx TR, with a bad front passenger wheel bearing. What parts (part numbers would help) do i need to repair this. Is there a hub i can buy that has the bearings pre-pressed into it? Im completely confused and any positive input would be much appreciated. Thanks! - Mike.
Parts can be found anywhere, betta ax somebody...

Why would you buy an assembly when the parts are easily had and it's a rather easy job to do..

It can be done in a matter of hours, pulling the knuckle, taking it somewhere for pressing and putting it back in...
Aaron'z 2.5RS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2012, 10:03 AM   #5
REX8
*** Banned ***
 
Member#: 24038
Join Date: Sep 2002
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Godspeed Cale...
Default

Subaru wheel bearings for the DIY guy 101:

1. Leave the knuckle on the car.

2. Borrow a slide hammer from Autozone.

3. Buy bearing and seals from Autozone, $40-45, total.

3. Hammer out the hub by inserting slide hammer rod through hub and putting nut on the end of the rod. Hammer as much as needed.

4. Buy a large threaded rod from home depot, large washers (6-8) and two coupling nuts.

5. Use said threaded rod with a large socket to make a puller (a 2.5 or 5 lb. plate weight with a hole in it makes a GREAT fixed pate to use with this puller).

6. Remove old bearing with said puller from knuckle. In short, put the plate weight (or something else stiff with a hole in it) over the inboard opening of the knuckle. Threaded rod goes through the bearing/knuckle/fixed plate, with a socket over the rod on the outboard knuckle end. Attach nuts to either end of the rod and start threading. Socket will be pulled into contact with the bearing, then will both be pulled inboard, toward your fixed plate until the bearing falls out of the knuckle.)

On the threaded rod from outboard end to inboard end: Nut->Socket->bearing->plate-> other nut.

7. Take hub to any shop to have the outer race removed therefrom if you do not have a press. Takes about 5 seconds.

8. Use your home-made puller as press to pull new bearing into knuckle. (Plate weight on outside of knuckle, socket/etc. on inside. Pull bearing into knuckle inside to outside.)

9. Use puller as press to draw hub back into knuckle. (Plate weight on inboard side, socket on outside of hub, pull hub into bearing/knuckle)


* Dont forget to install the outer seal BEFORE you start to press on the hub! To make things a hair easier. Sit new bearing in freezer while you're removing the old one/having race removed from hub. And, of course, don't forget the snap ring holding the beaing in!


Seriously, sans taking the hub to have the raced pressed off, you can remove and install a wheel bearing in 5-10 minutes.

Edit: Here's the tool. Don't "need" the PVC spacer.


Last edited by REX8; 10-11-2012 at 02:53 PM.
REX8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2012, 11:35 AM   #6
REX8
*** Banned ***
 
Member#: 24038
Join Date: Sep 2002
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Godspeed Cale...
Default

Do it, do it.
REX8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2012, 11:55 AM   #7
paulpat
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 237145
Join Date: Feb 2010
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: 562
Vehicle:
02 WRX
12 FXT

Default

Eh. I did it the hard way through autozone and stuff. I elongated the hub because my wheel bearings were bad. I had a shop press them in but they said no because they were screwed. So I had to get other stuff. And it was not the timkins it was the autozone brand.

So in hind sight. TiC hub a dub WITHOUT THE LONG STUDS! is a really good deal. Its about 20 less than what I would have paid for timkins or oem quality.

Look up the how to's for wheel bearings. I think you have to look on screen shots of nasioc that some one took.
paulpat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2012, 12:03 PM   #8
REX8
*** Banned ***
 
Member#: 24038
Join Date: Sep 2002
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Godspeed Cale...
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by paulpat View Post
Eh. I did it the hard way through autozone and stuff. I elongated the hub because my wheel bearings were bad. I had a shop press them in but they said no because they were screwed. So I had to get other stuff. And it was not the timkins it was the autozone brand.

So in hind sight. TiC hub a dub WITHOUT THE LONG STUDS! is a really good deal. Its about 20 less than what I would have paid for timkins or oem quality.

Look up the how to's for wheel bearings. I think you have to look on screen shots of nasioc that some one took.
It's a good deal if your hub in unusable. But the hub more often than not going to be just fine.
REX8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2012, 01:35 PM   #9
Aaron'z 2.5RS
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 1026
Join Date: Mar 2000
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Hickigan
Vehicle:
'00 RS/WRX Stg5
'98 RS Stock

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by paulpat View Post
Eh. I did it the hard way through autozone and stuff. I elongated the hub because my wheel bearings were bad. I had a shop press them in but they said no because they were screwed. So I had to get other stuff. And it was not the timkins it was the autozone brand.

So in hind sight. TiC hub a dub WITHOUT THE LONG STUDS! is a really good deal. Its about 20 less than what I would have paid for timkins or oem quality.

Look up the how to's for wheel bearings. I think you have to look on screen shots of nasioc that some one took.
Cue...

You did this for 270$???


That's 120$ out the door, seals/timmy/hub/pressing... here at least..
Aaron'z 2.5RS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2012, 02:42 PM   #10
bushflyr
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 89628
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Hawaii, Oahu
Vehicle:
'02 Wagon VF39'd
& Quick Racked

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron'z 2.5RS View Post
That's 120$ out the door, seals/timmy/hub/pressing... here at least..
Which hub? SGP charges $109 for the OE hub alone. Not that OE or aftermarket really matters for hub I would think.

FWIW When I hag my wheel bearing go bad it completely destroyed both the hub and knuckle. It wasn't even making any horrible sounds.

Wow. Only $33 on Summit's site. Dormans any good?

Last edited by bushflyr; 10-11-2012 at 02:49 PM.
bushflyr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2012, 02:54 PM   #11
REX8
*** Banned ***
 
Member#: 24038
Join Date: Sep 2002
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Godspeed Cale...
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron'z 2.5RS View Post
Cue...

You did this for 270$???


That's 120$ out the door, seals/timmy/hub/pressing... here at least..
But is generally sucks pulling the hub off. Soooooooo much easier to leave everything on the car and press it in and out.

Soooo much easier.

All you have to do is remove the rotor/axle.
REX8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2012, 03:34 PM   #12
Aaron'z 2.5RS
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 1026
Join Date: Mar 2000
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Hickigan
Vehicle:
'00 RS/WRX Stg5
'98 RS Stock

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bushflyr View Post
Which hub? SGP charges $109 for the OE hub alone. Not that OE or aftermarket really matters for hub I would think.

FWIW When I hag my wheel bearing go bad it completely destroyed both the hub and knuckle. It wasn't even making any horrible sounds.

Wow. Only $33 on Summit's site. Dormans any good?
Not OE hub there, no... but really, it's a hub, it's not like a Subaru halfshaft (gold internals, I swear)

Yeah, I don't know about that, things go progressivly and make plenty of noise before hand, BUT, there's always exception to the rule... You are that..

Quote:
Originally Posted by REX8 View Post
But is generally sucks pulling the hub off. Soooooooo much easier to leave everything on the car and press it in and out.

Soooo much easier.

All you have to do is remove the rotor/axle.
No doubt, I've never tried it on the car honestly, I just yank everything out and let someone else deal with the bearing.. takes an hour total to get it out, an hour to have it pressed and 30min to put it back, not including trip time, lunch and ****in around...
Aaron'z 2.5RS is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:15 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.