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Old 10-08-2012, 09:26 PM   #1
Honda371
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Default anyone ever tried mounting focal 6.5s in the doors of a 06 wrx?? any tips?

stock system isnt cutting it for me. do focals fit? or do i have to custom make a mount? focals have a huge magnet by the way..
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:38 PM   #2
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Custom mount. the factory speakers are only about an inch thick and they come pretty close to the window when its down. good luck.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:46 PM   #3
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thanks! know how much i need to space them out by chance???
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:11 AM   #4
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I have alpine SPR-17S in the front with speaker adapters. They're 2-5/16 in deep
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:26 AM   #5
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What model(s) are you looking at? I've done some of their entry/mid level (Access & Performance) line in your car. Doable with the right spacer and a little work.
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Old 10-09-2012, 06:19 PM   #6
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there the top of the line focals
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Old 10-09-2012, 06:47 PM   #7
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If they're the K2 good luck. 3" deep will not work unless you modify the door panel.
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:26 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Honda371 View Post
there the top of the line focals
Yeah...these? - http://www.crutchfield.com/S-xhBCUjh...a-Be-No-6.html

Or these? - http://www.crutchfield.com/p_091165K..._KRX2&skipvs=T

As Tru pointed out any of their higher end lines you'll need to do some modifications to the door panel as well as the door. Even if these speakers just "dropped" right in you wouldn't want to do so, there's a lot needed to be done to make any speaker perform the way it was designed too...especially when you're looking at $1000 plus set of separates.

The audio in general, speaker size and placement was the last thing Subaru thought about when building their car, any vehicle manufacture for that point.

- Todd
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:12 PM   #9
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Woah woah woah... No custom mounts necessary folks... There's a company that makes a prefabricated bracket to allow 6.5"s to fit into the stock space...

http://www.iaperformance.com/product...oducts_id=1482

I bought those SEVEN years ago... Mine are made of MDF, but it looks like they make them out of plastic now. And my installer reported they were "very easy to install."

Good to see IAperformance is still in business. They make good stuff.
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:46 PM   #10
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Woah woah woah... No custom mounts necessary folks... There's a company that makes a prefabricated bracket to allow 6.5"s to fit into the stock space...
It's not just the fact you need a spacer/adaptor, its also a matter of depth behind the sheet metal and in-between the door panel that causes the issues.

IA's are injected molded plastic which means they are thin/hollow...if you look at them wrong they'll probably strip and flex. They are also a generic size and anything generic is on the large size so one part fits all...this also means your speaker (depending on it's cutout dia) will be sloppy and you may only have a small amount of material to grab when mounting.

The worst thing you can do is mount your speaker to something that can flex easily, and injected molded plastic does just that. Without knowing it many people will over tighten a screw or two (usually going through the plastic and hitting door metal) and this will "flex" the spacer and basket of the speaker ever so slightly if not obviously noticeable.

This is the fastest way to burn/blow out your speaker, if the cone can't move perfectly with the voice coil you'll have a worthless speaker in no time at all.

Your speaker's basket needs to be mounted on a flat, rigid baffle in order to work properly and last. No offense to IA but like most things made anymore its the cheap solution that doesnt really do the job. If youre slinging a $150 or under set of speakers in okayit does the jobif you actually care about getting good sound and are going to spend a few bucks its the last thing Id use.

- Todd
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:47 PM   #11
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Then consider it IA's mistake for making the spacers out of plastic and not MDF...
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Old 10-10-2012, 01:39 AM   #12
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Then consider it IA's mistake for making the spacers out of plastic and not MDF...
I'll consider it their fault for taking the easy and cheap way out to the problem making a thin and flexible baffle instead of using a high quality solid plastic.

MDF sucks donkey dong for spacers...it obviously works to some extent and that's fine if you want to use it but HDPE machines and cuts just as easily and is completely moisture resistant. Birch ply, and solid woods are even better than MDF for this purpose.

There isn't a well known reputable company that will make a MDF spacer as a product and stands behind it...there's a reason for that.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:46 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audio Integrations

I'll consider it their fault for taking the easy and cheap way out to the problem making a thin and flexible baffle instead of using a high quality solid plastic.

MDF sucks donkey dong for spacers...it obviously works to some extent and that's fine if you want to use it but HDPE machines and cuts just as easily and is completely moisture resistant. Birch ply, and solid woods are even better than MDF for this purpose.

There isn't a well known reputable company that will make a MDF spacer as a product and stands behind it...there's a reason for that.
There isn't a well known reputable company that makes mdf spacers because they are so easy to make yourself. People don't know how to use mdf. That doesn't mean mdf is a bad product. Wrap it in your preferred deadening material, it is now completely moisture resistant. Ditto on those other spacers, that cheap plastic makes for a terrible baffle and there is nothing you can do to fix it.

Either of those sets of focals are a ripoff. You can achieve so much More by spending the money on processing power (active crossover,31 band Eq's) and then buying your own drivers. I've had extensive time with both of those sets of focals and they both require extensive eq-ing to sound right. Both are way too bright. I didn't save the Rta curves but if you don't have an rta or well trained ears you better make sure you nail those tweeter axis installs because otherwise they are downright punishing. The only focal product I ever heard that was worth a damn was their sub and their test cd's. both are amazing products.

As far as fitting the drivers. The window will always be a limitation, and unless you want to modify it the door panel can too. But if your only problem is that the magnet won't fit in the hole the car maker left you than just cut yourself a new hole. The baffle will stiffen everything right back up and your doors will be fine I assure you. You think these world championship cars are fitting 8"s, 10"s, 12"s or 15"s in the doors or kicks because the car was made for it? No, you make it fit. Cutting the metal isn't going to hurt anything I promise you. You really are a car audio virgin until you've cut some metal, removed some carpet or hammered out some extra space. Just make sure your measurements are correct before you do it.

Last edited by claythrow; 10-11-2012 at 02:42 AM.
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Old 10-11-2012, 09:42 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claythrow View Post
There isn't a well known reputable company that makes mdf spacers because they are so easy to make yourself. People don't know how to use mdf. That doesn't mean mdf is a bad product. Wrap it in your preferred deadening material, it is now completely moisture resistant. Ditto on those other spacers, that cheap plastic makes for a terrible baffle and there is nothing you can do to fix it.

.
In this day and age MDF has no place in the door of a car as a spacer...

Custom door panels, different story, but for simple spacers you'd be a fool to run MDF anymore...

I was just at my local WalMart parusing the cutting board isle... man, tons of choices these days...
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:07 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron'z 2.5RS

In this day and age MDF has no place in the door of a car as a spacer...

Custom door panels, different story, but for simple spacers you'd be a fool to run MDF anymore...

I was just at my local WalMart parusing the cutting board isle... man, tons of choices these days...
Your first two statements are contradictory.

Why, does it rain more now than it did before? Do you not have access to deadening material to wrap the mdf and make it waterproof? What is the thickest cutting board you saw? How many are you going to have to stack to mount a 5" deep 8" in the door?

I don't know why you keep bringing this up. I don't disagree That HDPE can do what you need in many situations, and I don't feel like you've read or understood a single thing I've written on the subject.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:00 PM   #16
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Here you go. MDF rings, paper cone woofer. MDF totally waterproof and acoustically dead. Are your doors better? Let's see em

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...3921449&type=1
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Old 10-11-2012, 09:34 PM   #17
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Here you go. MDF rings, paper cone woofer. MDF totally waterproof and acoustically dead. Are your doors better? Let's see em

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...3921449&type=1

Yeah, getting a little sick and tired of the demonization of MDF for baffles in the doors, especially for recreational use. My MDF, also covered in deadener, has not had a single problem for six and a half years...

You wanna compete? Fine, use whatever space age crap you want. I'll stick with tried and true...
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Old 10-12-2012, 10:10 AM   #18
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Right. I don't care what you use but saying mdf no longer has a purpose in a door, well, I'll be nice and I won't say your wrong, but I strongly disagree with you.

I've measured the acoustic properties of different baffles mounted in two of my cars with 3 different drivers. (I'm a little OCD). Baltic birch 9 layer and 14 layer, oak, mdf, hdf, the best plastic of the day. Mdf had the lowest RF. There are so many factors that play into RF I couldn't explain for sure why it did, but it did. My guess would be it had the best combination of stiffness, density and because of the glue used to make it, inherent dampening. Hdf and the plastic (I forget what it was called but it was pretty much early HDPE) responded the same with a spike around 200hz, hdf I'm not really sure why, the plastic I think was because its rf as a board is good, when its shaped as a ring it loses something. The hdf thing had me confused as I thought because it was even more dense than mdf it would be better. That is what prompted me to start researching RF and how I learned density is only a part of the equation. I learned a lot from guitar builders and high end speaker manufacturers research. Afterwards I felt so stupid for if I was to take an American coin, let's say a quarter, and an exact replica of a quarter down to every last detail but made of wood and drop them on a hard surface, the quarter would ring louder and at a higher frequency even though it is much more dense.

I've never tested the current HDPE offerings, they might test better than mdf i don't know. But if you want to use it, use it to your hearts content, love it, marry it, you'll hear not a peep from me (unless you are inquiring about possible rf issues)

But the same deadening process that I use for any door baffle which renders it waterproof I would do to an inherently waterproof baffle as well so it's not terribly important that it starts out waterproof.

In short, use HDPE if you like, i've got no beef with it, but if you have substantial amounts of water transferring over to that side of your door, you need to take care of it, waterproof baffle or not, you need to take care of it. Sometimes it's as simple as unclogging the drain holes in the corner of the door where dust, pine needles or other crap may have accumulated and making sure your vapor barrier is in tact.

Last edited by claythrow; 10-12-2012 at 10:24 AM.
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