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Old 11-05-2012, 01:00 PM   #1
BoostHard
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Ok... I searched but couldn't find anything on this.

On hard launches my front end lifts and the front wheels spin killing my 60' times while using launch control.

Current mods are tune, bolt on's, evo3 big 16g, springs and perrin diff lockdown. I'm on 235/45/17's too.

If i launch without lc I get decent launches but I know it can launch harder. Sadly lc nets me a decent amount of wheelspin.

Anyone know of a remedy to keep the front end from lifting or to balance weight transfer to keep more traction on the front tires?

Thanks.
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Old 11-05-2012, 01:41 PM   #2
RoadKillDMD
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For all we know, you could be talking about your Neon... We don't know what you're driving. What kind of tires are you running? Slicks, all seasons, studded winters? Please fill out your profile and give us some info in your car.
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:01 PM   #3
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If your spinnin tires an a AWD............and you have less than 400 whp.............upgrade your tires asap.
End
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:21 PM   #4
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I would look into an anti-lift kit. I'm not positive but I would think it would help keep the nose down? I may be way off. I'm assuming your driving an impreza of some sort since I'm on an impreza forum.
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:33 PM   #5
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Drop your tire pressures down.
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:50 PM   #6
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Softer longer travel front shocks and springs. you want the opposite of track handling suspension for drag racing. better tires are probably the most important. and if ur getting wheel spin with LC set the launch rpm alittle lower until you find the best spot you can launch at without spinning the tires. you can always spin the tires out if you try. i could probably spin out awd traction control off in a car with under 200hp and a decent clutch.
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TS7XREX View Post
I would look into an anti-lift kit.
This x2

Won't fix having a ton of wheel spin, but it will keep the front end planted better. Which yes, could help keep the fronts from spinning too much, but lowering the LC will help more in that area.
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:03 PM   #8
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I don't think an ALK prevents nose lift; quite the opposite I thought. I also thought ALKs only assist in corner braking and acceleration.
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:20 PM   #9
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If you have adjustable struts try stiffening the rear a bit so it squats less. Depending on if you have a wrx with a viscous center diff or an sti with mechanical adjustable it might be bad and not transferring power to the back. If its an sti take it off auto and put it on full manual lock. It will bind turning though so don't do that till your straight I the staging lane
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:43 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gometang View Post
I don't think an ALK prevents nose lift; quite the opposite I thought. I also thought ALKs only assist in corner braking and acceleration.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?p=8384387

They do both. Helps keep the nose down under hard accelerating, and helps it dive more into corners, giving more grip.
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:14 PM   #11
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Those mods and spinning tires? Common!

Seriously, for all we know you have bald all seasons and race in the rain.

Edit: When will people learn the 2.5L section is more for the motor aspect, not spinning tires?

Last edited by HinshawWRX; 11-05-2012 at 07:30 PM.
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:23 PM   #12
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On my star specs if they aren't warm I will spin, but I currently have my dccd controller un plugged which has a lot to do with it also
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Old 11-05-2012, 08:18 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevejones19 View Post
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?p=8384387

They do both. Helps keep the nose down under hard accelerating, and helps it dive more into corners, giving more grip.
From my understanding, it doesn't keep the nose down during acceleration, it does the opposite. Am I right?
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:01 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badler View Post
Drop your tire pressures down.
This^

Cheap, fast, and can be done by most noobs.
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Old 11-05-2012, 10:01 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewvdw

From my understanding, it doesn't keep the nose down during acceleration, it does the opposite. Am I right?
From my understand it keeps the car from transferring weight forward and back during accelerating and decelerating. So I would think it would keep the nose from lifting and transfer the energy into more of a direct forward motion.
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:10 AM   #16
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If your front diff is open, then look into swapping in a helical or suretrac or something like that. I'd almost bet that you're only spinning ONE front tire, and a better diff would keep both of them hooked up.

Another option would be to switch to a center diff that has more rear bias. Since you're getting front wheelspin I'm guessing that you've got a 50/50 torque split. My car spun the front tires with a 50/50 center diff, now with a 35/65 (6MT) it spins the rears instead. I got the rear bias as part of a 6MT swap but if I remember right there is an aftermarket 35/65 diff available for the 5MT (Cusco, maybe?).

Neither of these are cheap options, so try tweaking your tire pressure first.
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:15 AM   #17
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What car do you have?
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Old 11-06-2012, 12:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TS7XREX View Post
From my understand it keeps the car from transferring weight forward and back during accelerating and decelerating. So I would think it would keep the nose from lifting and transfer the energy into more of a direct forward motion.
I thought the opposite was true...Can someone chime in with real knowledge?
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Old 11-06-2012, 02:31 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewvdw

I thought the opposite was true...Can someone chime in with real knowledge?
In for knowledge!
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:01 PM   #20
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I can spin my 245/40/17 Toyo R1R's through first to redline, I'm protuned with an EWG, 04 STi.

How an ALK works:

Layman's Explanation
They relocate the transverse link mount by varying degrees (depending on manufacturer specs) changing the car's OEM suspension alignment by adding additional positive caster. To imagine the physical working of this technical change, please consider the following analogy: Imagine you are arm wrestling someone using a straight arm. You have an equal chance of winning if you keep a straight arm. Now imagine you are arm wrestling someone with their hand bent at the wrist. This transmits your straight arm force from one direction to two directions, straight down and a sweeping motion towards the table. This is the exact way the large upgrade units work. When braking or accelerating, they change the suspension angle so that some of the force is diverted not through the springs, but through the car's inherent chassis stiffness. This diversion amounts to an increased amount of the front end lift during acceleration and increased amount of front end dive during braking.

These changes allow a pressure change on the contact patch of the front tires during acceleration and braking. This pressure change is actually beneficial and evens out the suspension better allowing for better and faster steering, especially into and out of cornering. Though a bad example, some have even likened it to a poor man's front LSD based upon the way it improves front grip.

From Unabomber.
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Old 11-06-2012, 10:06 PM   #21
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Thanks for quoting the link I posted.


Off to the Suspension sub-sections I guess. I can understand it from both ways, but I'd like a solid answer. I after reading the manifesto, ALK made sense, anti-Lift, keeping the front down. Lol.
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Old 11-06-2012, 10:34 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heedlessone View Post
I can spin my 245/40/17 Toyo R1R's through first to redline, I'm protuned with an EWG, 04 STi.

How an ALK works:

Layman's Explanation
They relocate the transverse link mount by varying degrees (depending on manufacturer specs) changing the car's OEM suspension alignment by adding additional positive caster. To imagine the physical working of this technical change, please consider the following analogy: Imagine you are arm wrestling someone using a straight arm. You have an equal chance of winning if you keep a straight arm. Now imagine you are arm wrestling someone with their hand bent at the wrist. This transmits your straight arm force from one direction to two directions, straight down and a sweeping motion towards the table. This is the exact way the large upgrade units work. When braking or accelerating, they change the suspension angle so that some of the force is diverted not through the springs, but through the car's inherent chassis stiffness. This diversion amounts to an increased amount of the front end lift during acceleration and increased amount of front end dive during braking.

These changes allow a pressure change on the contact patch of the front tires during acceleration and braking. This pressure change is actually beneficial and evens out the suspension better allowing for better and faster steering, especially into and out of cornering. Though a bad example, some have even likened it to a poor man's front LSD based upon the way it improves front grip.

From Unabomber.
There's the answer...
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Old 11-07-2012, 07:36 AM   #23
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anti-lift kit, meatier tires, less tire pressure, stiffer suspension, DCCD.
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:11 AM   #24
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You want the front to lift and the rear to squat, weight transfer is key.

Search my posts in jtperry's thread in ppb, squidz and me do a pretty decent write up.

Last edited by CatfaceType-R; 11-07-2012 at 08:28 AM.
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:00 PM   #25
BoostHard
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Sorry for the late response, i forgot i posted this here.

Car is an 07 WRX TR, Tires are brand new btw.

Exact mods are:

Exterior

- VIS Carbon Fiber Hood
- VIS Carbon Kevlar Trunk Lid
- 17x7 40mm offset Konig GT-R Wheels Plastidipped Black

Suspension/Brakes/Tires

- Tein H-Tech Springs
- Perrin Rear Differential Subframe Lockdown System
- Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors
- Milestar 235/45/17 tires

Transmission

- Southbend DXD Stage 3 Racing Clutch

Engine

- HPR Hi-Flow Air Filter
- Gimmick Motorsports Aft-Maf
- Gimmick Motorsports Turbo Inlet Hose
- CXRacing Aluminum Y-Pipe
- CXRacing Oversized TMIC
- Forge MBC @ 19.3psi
- EVO III Big 16G 7cm^2 Turbo
- Invidia 3" Catless Bellmouth DP
- HKS Catless 3" Exhaust
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