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Old 10-11-2012, 07:13 AM   #26
spintheground
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Whoa lots of misinformation here..

You want Stage 2, as your title says, right?

Get a downpipe, bellmouth or divorced wastegate, just not flate flange(Cheap HKS style).
Get a PROTUNE, from a known tuner(and by known, I don't mean known for blowing up motors) Do some research on that one. Check your local thread in the SE Regional section. STi Mikey comes down to FL every once and a while, there are shops in the Miami, Orlando and Atlanta areas as well.

If you want to go beyond stage 2, then do some research on it. I suggest searching around the Proven Power forums and seeing what others have had sucess with.

If you want a headache free daily driver, don't go past Stage 2.
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:43 AM   #27
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If you're going stage 2, the fastest, most effective way would be DP, BPV, Tune. You will need a BPV on a newer WRX at the Stage 2 level to be safe.

Im about to get a Protune, and my stage 2 setup will be Turboback exhaust, AEM Intake, Forge BPV, GS EBCS, and PW TMIC. The stock WRX intercoolers are terrible, so I figure if you're going to pay for a Protune, might as well do it once and have all your parts on it the first time.
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Old 10-11-2012, 09:41 AM   #28
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So much bad info in here...

To go stage 2 you ONLY need a high flow catted/uncatted DP. For reliability sake, going further only adds hassle.

For stage 2+, I suggest 3in. Exhaust, uncatted up and down pipes, CAI, AOS, and a turbo inlet.

You could go and do fuel injectors pump and rails but they wont add any power. A TMIC adds a bit but the OEM one is fine. Youre nowhere near the power levela where upgrading the BPV is useful, stay OEM there.

Get a protune on that, get guages to monitor and youre good to go.
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:16 AM   #29
Steve.804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spintheground View Post
If you want a headache free daily driver, don't go past Stage 2.
Yeah because anything beyond the stock turbo and it's a ticking timebomb! Infact it's on the verge of exploding right off the showroom floor!

So did your car have an issue and now all subarus are going to have the same problem as yours? Gimmie a break.

These cars are STOUT as long as you keep things REASONABLE. Don't get horsepower greedy and modify accordingly with good quality parts. Have it all tied together by a well respected tuner who is familiar with subarus and your car should last a long time with proper maintenance.
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Old 10-11-2012, 11:18 AM   #30
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Be wary of a posters join date, I see a lot of opinions here are told as facts. Many haven't been around long enough to know why x or y works or doesn't work.
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:39 PM   #31
spintheground
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve.804 View Post
Yeah because anything beyond the stock turbo and it's a ticking timebomb! Infact it's on the verge of exploding right off the showroom floor!

So did your car have an issue and now all subarus are going to have the same problem as yours? Gimmie a break.

These cars are STOUT as long as you keep things REASONABLE. Don't get horsepower greedy and modify accordingly with good quality parts. Have it all tied together by a well respected tuner who is familiar with subarus and your car should last a long time with proper maintenance.

No, my car is heavily modded and has no issues. If you're saying your car with a 35r is as dependable and comfortable as a stock / stage 2 of the same year then I call your bluff.
You're right, there are correct ways to mod a Subaru(or any other make). But if you go ahead and re-read the OP's post for me real quick...


Done?

Ok, what did it say?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ARGPAB View Post
This may not be the right place, if so please direct me. I have a 2012 WRX, with AP V3, and Invidia Q300 stage 1. I want to have a stage 2 setup. What would be the best/most reliable stage 2 setup to have? Please list what you have done.
Oh that's right...

Now OP may have asked a contradicting question, "best/most reliable" may not co-exist. But I assumed his focus is on the ladder.
He then asks what people on here have, and they answer with tons of information that is valid, but not exactly the typical "stage 2" setup. I understand Websters doesn't have that phrase on file but let's just go ahead and agree that the consensus is; a stage 2 wrx is as follows:
1 downpipe
1 tune

You don't need anything else to achive what the OP asked. I was merely trying to guide him back to his orginal goal as he seemed to be distracted by everyone suggesting other things. Which I understand the logic of, "if you're going to spend $400 on a tune, make it worth it". But it's easy to highlight the pros and ignore the cons.

An 09+ WRX can make awesome power on the stock turbo. To keep his car as reliable as possible I suggested to stick with the classic stage 2 setup. Once he has some more research under his belt he can make his own decision, but borrowing other peoples research is where mistakes are made be new members here.

Last edited by spintheground; 10-11-2012 at 12:44 PM.
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:51 PM   #32
Steve.804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spintheground View Post
No, my car is heavily modded and has no issues. If you're saying your car with a 35r is as dependable and comfortable as a stock / stage 2 of the same year then I call your bluff.
You're right, there are correct ways to mod a Subaru(or any other make). But if you go ahead and re-read the OP's post for me real quick...


Done?

Ok, what did it say?
Sorry dude I just hate reading false information. Especially when it is in reguards to a new subaru owner's question.

The OP was asking about a reliable stage 2 set-up, not "is the vehicle reliable beyond stage 2." You said not to go beyond stage 2 if you don't want headaches which is simply not true. IMO these cars don't wake up UNTIL you go beyond stage 2. The stock turbo is simply too small for the EJ257. If what you said was true I would have modded a 135 or an Evo.

As for how comfortable my car is, it's personal preference. I don't think my 6-puck is that bad to drive and the suspension isn't crazy stiff. Now if you are hinting that my "giant" 35R is a pain to drive compared to stock...

Stock 2007 STI:
290lb/ft @ 4400rpm at the CRANK (subtract 20% drivetrain loss and you get approx 230lb/ft to the wheels.)

Steve's STI
360lb/ft @ 4500rpm at the WHEELS (IIRC, don't keep my dyno chart in my back pocket ) Note: it gets up quicker on the street (21psi by 4300rpm.)

I didn't buy the car to make 400awhp and expect the stock block to last. I've got plans this winter in that reguard. I will say the 83k miles I have driven it have been pretty trouble free (minus a few things I've broken at the track ). Reasonable expectations
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Old 10-13-2012, 10:38 PM   #33
spintheground
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What you said is very true, considering the stock turbo that the 09's+ come with - they are coming up with some crazy numbers with a few grand in bolt on's and some E85. It is very impressive what you can do with IC, pump, injectors, downpipe etc. Whatever they're calling that now-a-days..stage 2.5 I don't know. But I do know a couple people who have blown a motor or transmission making too much power with the stock turbo and E85. You said "get a respectable tuner" and "don't get horsepower[or torque] greedy" which is spot on, but you have a lot of other people posting in here that didn't think mention that and probably don't know any better.


IMO a larger turbo is more fun to drive than <20G. With the right mods and tune you can see good spool up pretty early, so I wasn't going there. I just know that any intelligent person with a 35r has put money into bushings, suspension, clutch and possibly a built motor - which will raise the cost of maintenance a bit. My car, which I DD every day, has solid motor/tranny mounts, spec stage 3+ clutch, every bushing TiC has for sale, agressive rubber, KWV3's, blah blah.. and I hate driving my wifes car because it feels like a boat. I enjoy the ride my car has, most wouldn't find it comfortable buut most people don't modify their cars.

I just spent a goood chunk of change on heads and a block myself, did this before my motor goes bad because, well that just makes sense. Did the same with my transmission a couple years ago. The point is, if you don't want to spend 6-10k on a long block and 3k on a tranny swap, and your goal is to have a reliable daily driver - stay stage 2. Not too many stage 2 WRX's blow up.
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Old 10-14-2012, 01:34 AM   #34
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If you are looking for a traditional Stage 2 you will require a turbo back exhaust, fuel pump(65mm frame), and a tune(AP or Pro). The canned maps on the Cobb are very well engineered. That being said, you can make more power with a custom tune and the aforementioned mods.

You do not need an intake or a BOV(BPV). A panel filter is a good addition though.

If you are looking for max power on a stock turbo, things change a little. I think this is where people are getting mixed up. The lines between Stage 2 and Stage 2+ begin to blur. The best way to approach this is by HP goals and budget.

Remember, anytime you free up airflow and/or add airflow, you need to balance that with proper fuel flow. In other words, do not put a manual boost controller on there, and turn up the boost because someone on this forum said it will make 400 HP. In fact, I would advise against a MBC all together. You can have fantastic response and control with an EBC or the stock system.

So, if you go beyond the classic Stage 2, to gain the most from your stock turbo, I would suggest the following:

Turbo back exhaust
65mm frame fuel pump
Cold air or 'boxed' larger diameter MAF intake....we want to keep temps in
check/// KS tech makes a nice 73mm(I think it is 73 or 76mm)
MAC valve style EBC (Cobb or Grimspeed)
Cobb AP
Protune from a reputable tuner that understands the ECU and what you are
looking for in performance
TMIC...Surface area to volume ratio and fitment are key here. You want
good fitment and dense fin ratio...cheapest is not best
Injectors..Bosch style(FIC) are the best...775 or 900cc are both ok
Uppipe...Cobb or Invidia are great...properly sized to keep up velocity and a
bit more flow
Professional install

From there you can jump into Equal Legnth headers, methanol, upgraded inlet, TGV deletes, etc...there are many other items, but I think the above list is a great place to start for a properly bolted Stag 2+. I would wait for the other goddies until you do a turbo and/or motor build.

I hope this helps a bit. I know we are not in your area, but you can always reach out for free advice, no problem.

Good luck and stay stoked about the car.

Cheers,

John
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Old 10-14-2012, 11:41 AM   #35
Slimsti
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A simple stage 2 setup with quality parts and a good tune. Will make u way more power than stock and keep u smiling for a while. After that I'd added a nice meth kit or e85 on the stock turbo. U can get near upgraded turbo numbers on the stock turbo with e85.
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:32 PM   #36
Jondukes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AkumaMotorsports View Post
If you are looking for a traditional Stage 2 you will require a turbo back exhaust, fuel pump(65mm frame), and a tune(AP or Pro). The canned maps on the Cobb are very well engineered. That being said, you can make more power with a custom tune and the aforementioned mods.

You do not need an intake or a BOV(BPV). A panel filter is a good addition though.

If you are looking for max power on a stock turbo, things change a little. I think this is where people are getting mixed up. The lines between Stage 2 and Stage 2+ begin to blur. The best way to approach this is by HP goals and budget.

Remember, anytime you free up airflow and/or add airflow, you need to balance that with proper fuel flow. In other words, do not put a manual boost controller on there, and turn up the boost because someone on this forum said it will make 400 HP. In fact, I would advise against a MBC all together. You can have fantastic response and control with an EBC or the stock system.

So, if you go beyond the classic Stage 2, to gain the most from your stock turbo, I would suggest the following:

Turbo back exhaust
65mm frame fuel pump
Cold air or 'boxed' larger diameter MAF intake....we want to keep temps in
check/// KS tech makes a nice 73mm(I think it is 73 or 76mm)
MAC valve style EBC (Cobb or Grimspeed)
Cobb AP
Protune from a reputable tuner that understands the ECU and what you are
looking for in performance
TMIC...Surface area to volume ratio and fitment are key here. You want
good fitment and dense fin ratio...cheapest is not best
Injectors..Bosch style(FIC) are the best...775 or 900cc are both ok
Uppipe...Cobb or Invidia are great...properly sized to keep up velocity and a
bit more flow
Professional install

From there you can jump into Equal Legnth headers, methanol, upgraded inlet, TGV deletes, etc...there are many other items, but I think the above list is a great place to start for a properly bolted Stag 2+. I would wait for the other goddies until you do a turbo and/or motor build.

I hope this helps a bit. I know we are not in your area, but you can always reach out for free advice, no problem.

Good luck and stay stoked about the car.

Cheers,

John
Thank you , you answered quite a few questions I had in this post I appreciate it and wish you were local to me what TMIC' are you having good results with in the cars you tune(09+ WRX)?
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:00 PM   #37
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IIRC there is no longer cats in the up pipes in the 09+ WRX. Only reason to upgrade your up pipe now is when you upgrade your exhaust manifold.

I would just go DP and quality tune. if you go any further might as well just get a better turbo setup like the borg efr's kits.

By the time you spend all the money on the list of parts that most are posting, you could be close to getting a borg efr kit.
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:22 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jondukes View Post
Thank you , you answered quite a few questions I had in this post I appreciate it and wish you were local to me what TMIC' are you having good results with in the cars you tune(09+ WRX)?
The best tmic is spearco hands down. You gotta pay to play though. Spearco is also the most expensive. Costs as much as a lot of fmic.
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Old 10-24-2012, 01:08 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hakira View Post
IIRC there is no longer cats in the up pipes in the 09+ WRX. Only reason to upgrade your up pipe now is when you upgrade your exhaust manifold.

I would just go DP and quality tune. if you go any further might as well just get a better turbo setup like the borg efr's kits.

By the time you spend all the money on the list of parts that most are posting, you could be close to getting a borg efr kit.
I don't think there has been a cat in the up pipe since 2005 in the WRX and with that said it is still beneficial to go with an aftermarket up pipe. There was a test from Bushur Racing in 2007 showing the results of what an aftermarket UP did compared to the stock non catted UP. I am sure you would edit your post if you read it.

For less than $200 (I went with grimspeed) I think its worth while and I only have a DP and CAI.

I feel I am the most basic Stg 2 you can get with just a DP, UP and CAI for power mods with a custome tune from COBB and on their dyno I got 328/350 but I have a STI.

Last edited by JonzFaSTi; 10-25-2012 at 12:42 AM.
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:19 AM   #40
ARGPAB
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Downpipe should be here Friday. I'll do the install Saturday and flash to Stage II...See where we go from there...
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Old 10-24-2012, 12:55 PM   #41
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what other mods are you still considering?
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Old 10-24-2012, 01:56 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spintheground View Post
Whoa lots of misinformation here..

You want Stage 2, as your title says, right?

Get a downpipe, bellmouth or divorced wastegate, just not flate flange(Cheap HKS style).
Get a PROTUNE, from a known tuner(and by known, I don't mean known for blowing up motors) Do some research on that one. Check your local thread in the SE Regional section. STi Mikey comes down to FL every once and a while, there are shops in the Miami, Orlando and Atlanta areas as well.

If you want to go beyond stage 2, then do some research on it. I suggest searching around the Proven Power forums and seeing what others have had sucess with.

If you want a headache free daily driver, don't go past Stage 2.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rampager2000 View Post
So much bad info in here...

To go stage 2 you ONLY need a high flow catted/uncatted DP. For reliability sake, going further only adds hassle.

For stage 2+, I suggest 3in. Exhaust, uncatted up and down pipes, CAI, AOS, and a turbo inlet.

You could go and do fuel injectors pump and rails but they wont add any power. A TMIC adds a bit but the OEM one is fine. Youre nowhere near the power levela where upgrading the BPV is useful, stay OEM there.

Get a protune on that, get guages to monitor and youre good to go.
These.. for stage 2 you need a downpipe a method of tuning, and a good tune (for simplicity a professional tune)

More isn't needed.

A upgraded intercooler would help considering the likely protuned boost pressures and that the stock intercooler tends to separate the end tanks at higher boost pressure.

Don't go crazy.. just buy those few things and enjoy it for a while.
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Old 10-24-2012, 06:21 PM   #43
ARGPAB
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As far as my next mods, honestly would just be Grimmspeed Ebcs, Aem intake, and Process-west TMIC, then Protune.
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:49 AM   #44
thisisntjared
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I would argue that the ic would open the door for you the most... I dont know that the ebc or intake will be as profound. Have you found someone to work the tune yet?
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:40 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spintheground View Post
Whoa lots of misinformation here..

You want Stage 2, as your title says, right?

Get a downpipe, bellmouth or divorced wastegate, just not flate flange(Cheap HKS style).
Get a PROTUNE, from a known tuner(and by known, I don't mean known for blowing up motors) Do some research on that one. Check your local thread in the SE Regional section. STi Mikey comes down to FL every once and a while, there are shops in the Miami, Orlando and Atlanta areas as well.

If you want to go beyond stage 2, then do some research on it. I suggest searching around the Proven Power forums and seeing what others have had sucess with.

If you want a headache free daily driver, don't go past Stage 2.

Best advice here
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Old 10-25-2012, 12:10 PM   #46
thisisntjared
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatfaceType-R View Post
Be wary of a posters join date, I see a lot of opinions here are told as facts. Many haven't been around long enough to know why x or y works or doesn't work.
i think this is actually the best advice here... :P
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Old 10-25-2012, 12:27 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thisisntjared View Post
i think this is actually the best advice here... :P

Touche
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Old 11-01-2012, 05:24 PM   #48
ARGPAB
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Got my catless downpipe in last week. Stage 2 feels great.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:18 PM   #49
thisisntjared
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so when are you going to get it on a dyno?
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Old 11-06-2012, 12:47 AM   #50
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Glad you like the new power ARGPAB. I would suggest getting a cat back to go with the new DP. The biggest restriction on these cars is the DP, but the exhaust will free up a couple ponies too. If you want a reliable, no fuss car, keep it at stage 2. Yea, if you mod appropriately it can stay that way. What you run into is, the more you meddle, the more little things go wrong. Boost leak here, vacuum leak there, gasoline spraying everywhere... Stay at stage 2 and it should be reliable and you will have a lot of fun.
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