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Old 10-12-2012, 03:58 AM   #1
RoadKillDMD
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Hi everyone. After a lot of searching, I haven't ever came across any decent or helpful writeups on installing a braided stainless steel clutch line on a Subaru. So I decided to make my own! Note this is on a 2011 STI, though the install should be similar to any MT Subaru model. Enjoy

I picked up my Goodridge clutch line for $19.## from Boston Motorsports (thanks guys!). Out of the box, you get the line, a new banjo bolt, two copper washers, and two E-clips. The line itself is very nice, very well constructed, and has a protective coating ensuring the elements won't be harming it any time soon. The install took a good while with the majority of the time being spent on the bleeding process I would say it should take about an hour and a half to two hours.

Tools needed:

Brake Fluid
Syringe/Turkey Baster
Rags/Towels (make sure you have plenty)
Vinyl Tubing
A Little Rubber Cap (to plug clutch hardline)
Container for Old Brake Fluid
Needle Nose Pliers
Crescent Wrench
10mm Flare Nut Wrench
17mm Flare Nut Wrench (not pictured)
8mm Combination Wrench
Breaker Bar (not pictured)
3/8 Ratchet
12mm Socket (not pictured)
14mm Socket
Extensions (not pictured)
A Trusty Pedal Stamper



To start, you need to take your intercooler off if you have a top mount. Take your pliers and pull off the little tab holding the clutch line, it's located on the hardline side closest to the firewall.



It'll take some wigglin



Next, take your crescent wrench and 10mm flare nut wrench. Position them on the hardline connection and break it loose. Blast the nut with penetrating oil if needed as the clutch line may be on there pretty good. Place some rags around the area to catch any brake fluid that will inevitably leak and drip about.



Unscrew the old clutch line from the hardline and quickly plug the hardline coming from the clutch master cylinder with your rubber cap.



Take your ratchet and 14 mm socket and loosen the banjo bolt on the slave cylinder and remove the line. Take care to not spill any fluid caught in the line.



Here is the two lines next to each other

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Last edited by RoadKillDMD; 10-12-2012 at 04:18 AM.
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:58 AM   #2
RoadKillDMD
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Now you need to prepare your new line for installation. Take your banjo bolt and put a copper washer on there. Put the 'O' end of the clutch line over the banjo bolt next with the bend angled toward the top of the bolt, then top it off with the other provided copper washer. Hold all of these pieces together and screw the assembly into the slave cylinder. You want to tighten the banjo bolt up pretty snug. Take care to not over tighten this bolt as it could easily break.



You will want to work quickly for this next part. Loop the line just how the stock line was back to the clutch hardline. Quickly uncap the hardline and screw it onto the new clutch line. Use a 17mm flare nut wrench and the 10mm flare nut wrench from before and snug that connection up (again, don't over tighten).



Next, you will need to line up the 17mm bolt up with the bracket to reinstall the tab to hold the line in place. This is where the E clips probably would have come into play, but I think they were there more as backup in case you futz up the original tab. I just reused mine.



Next is the fun part. I found out the hard way that the clutch line can't really be bled with the slave cylinder installed on the car. My partner and I tried bleeding the system for hours with no results. After a little bit more research, I found that (like a master cylinder) the slave cylinder needs to be level during the bleeding process.

First off, I couldn't get down to the slave cylinder bolts with the starter motor in the way, so I took that off first. Unplug your battery before moving forward. It's two mounting bolts, a nut holding a wire, and another little wire that clips onto the back of the starter.







Remove the starter, and you now have room to access the slave cylinder mounting bolts. Unbolt and pull away the slave cylinder.


Last edited by RoadKillDMD; 10-12-2012 at 04:33 AM.
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:59 AM   #3
RoadKillDMD
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Here is the slave cylinder unbolted from the transmission.



Now you can proceed with the normal two man bleeding process. Take your liquid suction device and empty out your clutch master cylinder of all old fluid. Refill with fresh brake fluid. I had some ATE Super Blue laying around from my recent brake job.





Make sure the slave cylinder is sitting nice and level as you hold it during bleeding. Get your 8mm combination wrench and place it over the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. Grab a length of vinyl tubing and place it over the bleed nipple as well and run the other end into a container to catch the old fluid.

Now, have your pedal stomper press the clutch pedal down to the floor. You will see the rod from the slave cylinder move outward. Open your bleeder screw and squeeze the rod back into the slave cylinder allow anything to flow through it, then tighten down the bleeder screw. Have your pedal stomper slowly return the pedal back to its normal position. Repeat this process until no more air comes out of the bleeder screw. You can now reinstall your clutch slave cylinder, your starter motor, and intercooler and start cleaning up. You are all done!

Here's what it looks like in the engine bay (like anyone is ever going to see it )





I hope this helps anyone considering this modification. The clutch pedal feels absolutely amazing after the install. Much smoother, much more solid and consistent feel. Definitely worth the twenty bucks spent on it.

Cheers!

DMD

Last edited by RoadKillDMD; 10-12-2012 at 05:22 AM.
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:07 PM   #4
Jdub.csu
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Nice write up bud! Glad you enjoyed the simple modification
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:44 PM   #5
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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Old 11-09-2012, 04:59 AM   #6
avikm289
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i bought the same ss line and it didnt come with a banjo bolt or washer. can i re-use the old one?
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:08 AM   #7
RoadKillDMD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avikm289
i bought the same ss line and it didnt come with a banjo bolt or washer. can i re-use the old one?
You run the risk of the line leaking if you reuse the washers. I would get in contact with Goodridge and have them send you the rest of the hardware. Who knows, if you raise some hell, you may get a free t-shirt or something
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Old 12-16-2012, 12:25 AM   #8
JesseFK
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Thanks for this write up! It really helped me out today.
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Old 03-02-2013, 01:34 PM   #9
Infinite Performance
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Thanks Awesome write up Just did this today to my '13 Sti hatch feels NICE
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Old 04-10-2013, 02:07 AM   #10
kaotic WeRX
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Nice Write up!!! I was going to complement you on how clean your engine and tranny are but i remembered you're working on a 2011!! I will still compliment you though!! Keep the good write ups coming
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:07 AM   #11
samus143
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Nice write up man!

I received a Goodridge SS line kit with no hardware also, is Goodridge no longer including the hardware in the 06-12 wrx kits?
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:38 AM   #12
RoadKillDMD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samus143 View Post
Nice write up man!

I received a Goodridge SS line kit with no hardware also, is Goodridge no longer including the hardware in the 06-12 wrx kits?
It should come with a new banjo bolt and crush washers at least. Where did you get the kit from? I would contact them and possibly Goodridge of needed to get the rest of the hardware, hopefully at no expense to you.
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:41 AM   #13
POLSKA9000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samus143 View Post
Nice write up man!

I received a Goodridge SS line kit with no hardware also, is Goodridge no longer including the hardware in the 06-12 wrx kits?
I actually ordered it and it's missing the hardware as well. I contacted Goodridge and they said it should have come with the parts. They said they will be sending me the missing pieces.
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Old 08-16-2013, 05:07 PM   #14
Mike05wrx
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thanks for this write up. i'm gonna be replacing my slave and master cylinders this weekend, along with the goodridge clutch line. def gonna be back on this thread
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Old 08-24-2013, 04:10 PM   #15
Ramon_12345
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Can anyone time me what the overall length of this line is?
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Old 09-23-2013, 07:33 PM   #16
CpnNeeda
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Great write up, very useful. Now if I weren't having issues bleeding. Even after an hour and a half of following your directions I have no clutch pedal pressure. Not sure how to proceed.
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