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Old 10-15-2012, 01:20 PM   #1
nepbug
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Member#: 328631
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Colorado
Vehicle:
2008 FXT
WRB

Default Pulling out my EJ251, what should I do while it's out?

Ok, I'm doing the timing belt and head gaskets on my 2002 Outback Sport (EJ251 5MT). I've decided that it will be best if I just pull it out of the car to do the work. Here's my list of items I'm picking up to give it a once over, let me know if you think I have omitted anything.

       Gates TCK304 Timing Belt Component Kit Gates TCK304 Timing Belt Component Kit

Crank Seal: 806733030
Cam Seals: 806732150 x 2
Water Pump: M/T: 21111AA007
Pump Gasket: 21114AA051
Thermostat: 21200AA072
Thermo Gasket: 21236AA010
Oil Pump O-Ring: 10991AA001
Inlet Rad Hose - 45161FE000
Outlet Rad Hose - 45161AE010
Radiator Cap - 45137AE003
PCV - 11810AA040 - $13.04
Head Gaskets - 11044AA642 x 2 (going with the STi ones instead of the OBS ones)
Plug Tube Seals - 10966AA030 x 4
VC Gaskets - 13294AA053 x 2
VC Grommets - 13271AA071 x 10
Intake Gaskets - 14035AA383 x 2
Exhaust Gaskets - 44011AC030 x 2
Coolant Conditioner - SOA635071
Rear Main Seal - 806786040
Coolant for 2002 OBS - SOA868V9210

I'm really considering the clutch/flywheel as well. I did the clutch 1.5 years ago, but not the flywheel and I still had clutch judder. Recently I did some unintentional bedding in of the clutch (slowly driving up ramps a couple of times) and the judder seems to have gone away so if that proves to be the case still over the next few weeks I will skip the clutch/flywheel.
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Last edited by nepbug; 10-15-2012 at 02:59 PM. Reason: Clarify typo in title
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Old 10-16-2012, 02:24 PM   #2
nepbug
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Member#: 328631
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Colorado
Vehicle:
2008 FXT
WRB

Default

Lack of a response, but that's alright. I've added:

Cyl 4 Wrist Pin access o-ring - 806931070
Steel Oil Separator Plate - 11831AA210
Unsealed bolts for separator plate - 800406140 x 5
Sealed bolt for separator plate - 800406150 x 1
A/C Belt - 73323AC010
Alternator Belt - 809218250

I think this is a good list for somebody looking to do a refresh to their engine if they are pulling it out to do head gaskets/timing belt already.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention spark plugs as well.
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:42 PM   #3
Patrick Olsen
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Location: Where the Navy sends me...
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QuickSilver Metallic

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Why the cyl 4 wrist pin access o-ring? Not that it's an expensive item, but there's no need to remove that access plug to do the head gaskets and timing belt. It seems like you would be removing the plug solely to replace an o-ring that has never been disturbed and should be in perfect health.

And you may already have the steel separator plate. I've never really paid attention to what model years have those. I wouldn't bother replacing the separator plate unless you have the plastic one.
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:24 PM   #4
nepbug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
Why the cyl 4 wrist pin access o-ring? Not that it's an expensive item, but there's no need to remove that access plug to do the head gaskets and timing belt. It seems like you would be removing the plug solely to replace an o-ring that has never been disturbed and should be in perfect health.

And you may already have the steel separator plate. I've never really paid attention to what model years have those. I wouldn't bother replacing the separator plate unless you have the plastic one.
That's true, I'm hedging my bets on the wrist pin access port, it's more likely to be leaking than the rear main seal and the oil separator is even more likely to be leaking than either of the other two.

The wrist pin access port o-ring is really cheap, even if I didn't replace it, I'd rather be out $2 instead of waiting to get the part if it is needed.

I can't seem to find any definitive info on the period of plastic oil separator covers being used, I believe it was swapped back to the aluminum plate in 2000. Once again I'm just making sure I have the parts there, if I check it and it is not leaking and it still flat then I will have no need for the steel plate and I will figure out what I want to do with the new one, I'm not too worried about it, somebody will likely want to buy it and then I won't be out all of the money at least.

One more bit of info, I'm at 188k miles, so even if a seal isn't leaking now if I replace it I have a better chance of making it to 300k miles without issues.
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:39 PM   #5
yarrgh
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Location: Aurora, CO
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2001 2.5RS
Black Diamond Pearl

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If it ain't broke...

You don't need the coolant conditioner, cam seals, oil pump o-ring, or front crank seal. If they're not leaking, you're introducing more risk by removing/replacing. If you're tearing apart the engine for the hell of it, go nuts. It's actually kinda fun and you'll learn quite a bit. You still don't need the conditioner.

Don't forget to really clean off the top of the engine where the heads meet the block, dirt/pebbles have a way of migrating to those areas, and internals don't take too kindly to foreigners. Compressed air works pretty well. Do this BEFORE you disassemble anything. Don't forget to plug in your fans when you're all done.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:19 PM   #6
nepbug
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Vehicle:
2008 FXT
WRB

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Quote:
Originally Posted by yarrgh View Post
If it ain't broke...

You don't need the coolant conditioner, cam seals, oil pump o-ring, or front crank seal. If they're not leaking, you're introducing more risk by removing/replacing. If you're tearing apart the engine for the hell of it, go nuts. It's actually kinda fun and you'll learn quite a bit. You still don't need the conditioner.

Don't forget to really clean off the top of the engine where the heads meet the block, dirt/pebbles have a way of migrating to those areas, and internals don't take too kindly to foreigners. Compressed air works pretty well. Do this BEFORE you disassemble anything. Don't forget to plug in your fans when you're all done.
Thanks for the tips, I did notice a surprising amount of pebbles on the engine when I recently replaced the knock sensor. I will have to take the air gun out and clean it up a bit.

It's not all just for the hell of it. It started with I need to do my timing belt badly, this is the original belt. Then it came to what else can I do while I'm in there so that it is easier now than down the road. Head gaskets are a known issue on this engine so that didn't take too much convincing. After that, I decided I would rather do this with the engine out of the car, thus the list grew again to things I would have access too.

I am also getting the heads pressure tested and a valve job and resurfacing done if needed. I don't expect it as I don't have compression issues and haven't overheated though, but I don't want to be wondering. Head gasket sealing surface prep is key.

Also, in my opinion it's much more enjoyable to work on a car because you want to (preventative maintenance) than because you need to (something's broke).

When I did the clutch it was a "need to" situation, in February, and I did it on my back with a business trip coming up so I had a tight timeline (the wife needed it back before I was going to be gone for 2+ weeks). It also meant that I had to button it up quicker than I would have liked to, thus the flywheel didn't get replaced. That was the least enjoyable car work I've ever done. I'm actually looking forward to this work instead of dreading it.

It seems as though you've got some experience in unplugged fans...I'm sure it will stick in my head now.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:30 PM   #7
nepbug
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Member#: 328631
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Colorado
Vehicle:
2008 FXT
WRB

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Also, yarrgh, I see that you are in Colorado as well. Any recommendations on a front range shop for the heads? I am calling around this weekend and have Metro Perfomance and CCR Engines on the list of people to contact. I'll probably contact some of the other shops (Subapros, Super Rupair, Roos Only, etc) and see if they do these in-house or send it out.
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