Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Sunday December 28, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Built Motor Discussion

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-31-2012, 11:44 AM   #51
Type2
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 200436
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lawrence, KS
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
Black

Default

I could NOT get the bottom two cam gears off my old engine. The ones I really wanted to (and to reuse) were the top AVCS cam gears. They weren't too big of a problem. I used a socket extension wedged against the flex plate to stop the engine from turning, but despite using a breaker bar and hanging from it there was NO way the bottom two were coming off. In fact, it started to strip the inside of the hex nut on the cam. Not good.

* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Type2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2012, 04:42 PM   #52
kakarot09
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 182375
Join Date: Jun 2008
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Northern Nevada
Vehicle:
08 Sti
Wrbm

Default

Happens pretty often on these. You can drill the bolts without messing up the cam gear or dremel the bolts and risk messing up the cam gear. Either way you're pretty much just taking the tension off the bolt by cutting away the shoulder of the bolt. Then the gear and bolt come off easily.
kakarot09 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2012, 05:47 PM   #53
Type2
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 200436
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lawrence, KS
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
Black

Default

Well, glad I didn't pull the pin on the timing belt... As I was swapping parts over to my new engine I realized there are a couple water lines coming from the water pump that go behind the driver's side plastic cam guard. Also, the AVCS oil line goes behind as well. Doh... ugh... So... I need to remove the timing belt, buy couple brass crush washers for the AVCS oil line and get the water pump hoses routed then put it back together. Yay for first timers!
Type2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2012, 07:46 PM   #54
NW2TONE
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 212509
Join Date: May 2009
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: marysville,WA
Vehicle:
unde your hood makin
your **** go faster

Default

Make sure you remove the belt properly so you don't bend valves!
NW2TONE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2013, 05:01 PM   #55
Type2
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 200436
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lawrence, KS
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
Black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kakarot09 View Post
Happens pretty often on these. You can drill the bolts without messing up the cam gear or dremel the bolts and risk messing up the cam gear. Either way you're pretty much just taking the tension off the bolt by cutting away the shoulder of the bolt. Then the gear and bolt come off easily.
Any particular drill bit you recommend? I'll do some searching in the meantime.
Type2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2013, 05:03 PM   #56
Type2
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 200436
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lawrence, KS
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
Black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NW2TONE View Post
Make sure you remove the belt properly so you don't bend valves!
Is there a special way to do this? The belt is not on tight since I didn't pull the pin on the tensioner. I'll hold the right two gears in place as best I can, but they will pop back to their resting position which is out of harm's way.
Type2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2013, 05:30 PM   #57
kakarot09
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 182375
Join Date: Jun 2008
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Northern Nevada
Vehicle:
08 Sti
Wrbm

Default

I forget the size of drill bit I'll look and see. The cams shouldn't be allowed to just snap back. This can allow the exhaust and intake valves to collide on the way to their closed positions. Factory service manual says for installation the exhaust cam is rotated counter clockwise then the intake cam rotated clockwise. This is as you are looking at it for installation. Removal is intake rotated counter clockwise then exhaust rotated clockwise. This is important and people that don't follow this often end up with a valve bouncing around in the combustion chamber ruining the engine. It is best to use the cam pulley tools to hold and rotate them or if the bolts are torqued you can use 10mm Allen bolts on breaker bars to hold and rotate the cams. Have a buddy help and it's a lot easier.
Edit until I can look I think the drill bit is 7/16"

Last edited by kakarot09; 01-02-2013 at 05:53 PM.
kakarot09 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2013, 05:57 PM   #58
Type2
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 200436
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lawrence, KS
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
Black

Default

I was going to hold the driver side AVCS cam using my hex bit and breaker bar and using the belt to stop the bottom from spinning. That's how I put them on. It's a challenge but I'm sure I can keep it from spinning. I'll try drilling out the bolt tomorrow. I'll just keep going up in size until something works. I'm just worried I might not be 100% level and muck up the cam gear.
Type2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2013, 09:18 PM   #59
Type2
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 200436
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lawrence, KS
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
Black

Default

Received my new Turbo! Borg Warner AGP S200sx-RS-56. Behold the glory!







Next to my APS SR 50 56lb/min turbo (for reference the BW is 55lb/min)







Type2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2013, 09:22 PM   #60
Type2
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 200436
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lawrence, KS
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
Black

Default

With flash!









Type2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2013, 09:22 PM   #61
Type2
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 200436
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lawrence, KS
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
Black

Default

It weighs close to twice as much as my APS SR50
Type2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2013, 11:32 PM   #62
kakarot09
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 182375
Join Date: Jun 2008
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Northern Nevada
Vehicle:
08 Sti
Wrbm

Default

Whatever you have to do with the cam gears. I just think its easier with a buddy the cam bolts you don't have to be completely perfect. Just go slow and keep checking it. Once you see a little gap form just hit the rest until the head comes off.
kakarot09 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2013, 09:06 AM   #63
Type2
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 200436
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lawrence, KS
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
Black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kakarot09 View Post
Whatever you have to do with the cam gears. I just think its easier with a buddy the cam bolts you don't have to be completely perfect. Just go slow and keep checking it. Once you see a little gap form just hit the rest until the head comes off.
Thanks bud. That makes a lot of sense.
Type2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 01:05 PM   #64
Type2
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 200436
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lawrence, KS
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
Black

Default

Going to run AN lines to my turbo. I'll probably do the whole oil-feed / AVCS line replacement discussed at iwsti

I think this top picture here is my turbo oil feed line.


I am pretty sure this is my turbo oil drain line.


If someone disagrees with my labeling let me know. I am not 100% sure on this, but I think I'm correct.
Type2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 02:09 PM   #65
aboothman
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 127745
Join Date: Oct 2006
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Humboldt County
Vehicle:
06 WRX 30r 6 speed
99L EJ255 6 Speed

Default

Check out the Tigwerks AN oil return. Lets you run AN from the turbo to the block...very nice
aboothman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 05:39 PM   #66
Type2
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 200436
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lawrence, KS
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
Black

Default

Is THIS what you are talking about? It looks awesome.

Edit: just purchased it. Need to look for -10 AN lines that will fit. Thinking about going with the P&L kit for the AVCS/Turbo feed line
Type2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 07:28 PM   #67
aboothman
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 127745
Join Date: Oct 2006
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Humboldt County
Vehicle:
06 WRX 30r 6 speed
99L EJ255 6 Speed

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Type2 View Post
Is THIS what you are talking about? It looks awesome.

Edit: just purchased it. Need to look for -10 AN lines that will fit. Thinking about going with the P&L kit for the AVCS/Turbo feed line
Get a straight 10 AN male fitting for your turbo. Get a russell push lok hose and fittings...1 foot of hose should be plenty for 2 setups. No need to get a line made for the oil return...especially for what a section of 10 AN would cost!! Besides you new to be able to make a custom length line...



As for the avcs lines you can just follow the how to you linked and do it a but cheaper if you want. As you can see I ran AN everything, and saved a LOT of money by doing the fuel and coolant lines myself. Some may not want the risk... Which is why I did not make the high pressure oil lines. For coolant tho...make them ****s yourself!!

Could get you fitting sizes and banjo fittingi thread size/pitch if you need it. Not sure what borgs run but the block I know

Last edited by aboothman; 04-20-2013 at 03:47 PM.
aboothman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 08:45 PM   #68
kakarot09
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 182375
Join Date: Jun 2008
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Northern Nevada
Vehicle:
08 Sti
Wrbm

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by aboothman View Post
Get a straight 10 AN male fitting for your turbo. Get a russell push lok hose and fittings...1 foot of hose should be plenty for 2 setups. No need to get a line made for the oil return...especially for what a section of 10 AN would cost!! Besides you new to be able to make a custom length line...

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...1327186089.jpg
That looks very nice. I think I'll do mine just like that. I already have the fitting for the block and summit is local to me so it should be pretty easy
kakarot09 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 08:58 PM   #69
Type2
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 200436
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lawrence, KS
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
Black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by aboothman View Post
Get a straight 10 AN male fitting for your turbo. Get a russell push lok hose and fittings...1 foot of hose should be plenty for 2 setups. No need to get a line made for the oil return...especially for what a section of 10 AN would cost!! Besides you new to be able to make a custom length line...

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...1327186089.jpg

As for the avcs lines you can just follow the how to you linked and do it a but cheaper if you want. As you can see I ran AN everything, and saved a LOT of money by doing the fuel and coolant lines myself. Some may not want the risk... Which is why I did not make the high pressure oil lines. For coolant tho...make them ****s yourself!!

Could get you fitting sizes and banjo fittingi thread size/pitch if you need it. Not sure what borgs run but the block I know
Man, you are full of great info... Your setup looks great too. I am unsure what to do with my water line, since the turbo is only oil cooled. I suppose I can block off both ports, but I think the easiest would be to just run a hose connecting the two.

Where do you buy your AN parts at? JEGS?

Regarding the BW turbo, I took a look at the website and this is what I dug up (LINK):
Oil inlet: 1/4" NPT
Oil drain is the standard T3-T4 with M8 threads

It doesn't mention what the tread pitch is??? I suppose I can call AGP up tomorrow to get some straight answers. They sell accessories, fittings, etc HERE.

Regarding fitting sizes, banjo fitting thread size/pitch etc anything you throw my way is a help. The major stuff is over and it's now the little nick knacks that are keeping me up at night.

I'm hoping to get the engine in this Sunday, and I'd like to have it started with a break in tune the 20th.
Type2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 09:16 PM   #70
aboothman
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 127745
Join Date: Oct 2006
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Humboldt County
Vehicle:
06 WRX 30r 6 speed
99L EJ255 6 Speed

Default

Ya Jegs Summit or wherever. Depends whether you are a brand whore or just want the parts. It was worth the effort for me, but I hate hose clamps on any oil or coolant line lol.

Oil cooled saves you some time. Remove some clutter and just plug the hole for the turbo coolant supply. It should not affect engine coolant flow as that is basically an ancillary system. May actually improve it...and less crap to leak

ATP Turbo is a great source...a little expensive, but their site helped me piece things together. Good folks there. Same for AGP.

As for misc thread sizes etc dont forget about your local hardware store. They usually have a bolt size finder in the nuts & bolts section. I will dig up my list of what goes where tho.

I believe I used a 14mm to 6 AN banjo for either the block or turbo coolant...for anyone reading this in the future I believe I used 12mm 1.25 thread pitch -6AN fittings for the turbo coolant but that is a Garrett GT turbo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kakarot09 View Post
That looks very nice. I think I'll do mine just like that. I already have the fitting for the block and summit is local to me so it should be pretty easy
Ya it is badass...and will never leak again!! Just make sure you guys lube up the o-ring on the Tigwerks piece well...I busted an o-ring on my first in car install and had an oil leak :/ Luckily he usually includes 2
aboothman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2013, 09:34 AM   #71
Type2
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 200436
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lawrence, KS
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
Black

Default

For the oil drain, I picked up one of these this morning on fleabay $15 shipped:



Still looking into what thread per inch the oil inlet is. AGPTurbos aren't open yet, so can't call. I do know it's a 1/4" NPT, so I will need a 1/4" NPT --> -4 AN adapter.
Type2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2013, 09:59 AM   #72
cowboy_Rob
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 194062
Join Date: Nov 2008
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Camp Hill PA
Vehicle:
2003 Impreza WRX
PSM

Default

1/4 inch npt is the thread. Npt means National pipe thread which means its tapered threads so its self locking and self sealing
cowboy_Rob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2013, 10:07 AM   #73
Type2
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 200436
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lawrence, KS
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
Black

Default

Just picked this 1/4" to -4 AN adapter up for my turbo inlet. Now I need to focus on the lines. I've watched a few YouTube videos on how to cut lines and install the ends on. Doesn't sound too scary or complicated.



Probably my favorite video on how to make AN fittings and hoses is this one below. I'd skip to the 3:30 mark

Type2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2013, 12:52 PM   #74
aboothman
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 127745
Join Date: Oct 2006
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Humboldt County
Vehicle:
06 WRX 30r 6 speed
99L EJ255 6 Speed

Default

Wrap the stainless in electrical tape...and wrap it TIGHT!! I had best results cutting it with a dremel. Then lube it up and twist the collar on making sure you keep it flush when install the threaded piece inside of it
aboothman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2013, 01:57 PM   #75
Type2
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 200436
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lawrence, KS
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
Black

Default

any particular place you get your SS lines?
Type2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:48 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.