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Old 11-03-2012, 01:35 PM   #1
backseatwindowsup
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Default Need assistance, 2012 WRX in shop

Hey everyone, first of all I hope I posted in the right section. If I didn't I apologize but please go ahead and move this to where it belongs.

So I have a 2012 hatch with about ~6000 miles on it. Completely stock, one oil change done so far and it was running perfectly until about Thursday morning. I was driving to school on I-88 in the Chicagoland suburbs when I came across a 335 who was looking to make his morning commute a little more enjoyable. All I'm going to say is that I humbly granted his request and thoroughly enjoyed the remaining few minutes of my commute with some rather "spirited driving." Good thing too cuz I was running just a bit late.

Anyway my exit came, I departed the interstate and waited to turn at the light at the end of the on ramp. When it was my turn to move I began accelerating and all of a sudden at around 2400 rpm in 1st by engine began making a rather nasty rattling noise that persisted through ~3100 rpm as I shifted into second. The rattle continued as the engine spun down but as soon as I hit about 24, 2500 again in 2nd the rattling came back. The engine continued to rattle between 2400 and 4200 (thats the highest I revved to) the rest of the way to school. I prayed that it was something temporary but when I started the car again after letting it sit all day while in school the rattling was still there. I revved it up a few times sitting in the parking lot and the exact same thing was still happening. Rattling while revving up from ~2500, and rattling all the way down back to 2500. It sounds like its coming from near the intercooler but thats just a 100% guess, I have no idea what to look for. I apologize for not recording the sound to post on here I really wish I did.

Friday morning I took the car to the dealership (its still perfectly drivable, I simply babied it from then on) and they said they're going to need to keep it for the weekend to figure out what's going on with it. I said that's fine. The sound was easily reproduced in the shop so they all heard exactly what was going on in the car. A few hours later I get a voicemail from them first claiming that I had an aftermarket oil change and they would need to see maintenance records to make sure it was done with the proper oil and filter. I got the oil change done at another subaru dealership. I don't see how they couldn't recognize that. Anyway I called them back and told them my records are in the car go get them. At that time he informed me it sounds like there's a knock in the lower end of the engine and they're going to have to tear down lower half of the oil pan to see whats going on internally. Once they've done that they have to contact subaru to see what the next step would be. AND they're not going to start any of this until Monday, so my car is going to be there for a little while.

Thank you for reading my story, I've got three major concerns at this time:

1. ANY ideas on what could be causing the rattle? It literally appeared out of nowhere and was so sudden, I can't think of anything that may have caused it.
2. Is the dealer shop taking the right steps/approach towards getting everything sorted out? If they have to "tear down" what they say they do should I expect everything to go smoothly once they figure it out and have my car back with minimal damage?
3. What should I personally be expecting from the dealer out of this? Excellent, warranty covered service? A free loaner car? Anything?

Thank you all so much for taking the time to read this. If anyone has any information that could help me out I will greatly appreciate it. Thank you!
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:15 PM   #2
the suicidal eggroll
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1) Spun rod bearing
2) Yes
3) A new short block

You should have shut off the car immediately and had it towed. From the sound of it, you drove it quite a lot after hearing the problem. There's a chance that by doing so, you toasted the heads and turbo as well. If that's the case, hopefully the dealer will cover them rather than calling it negligence and leaving those parts of the repair in your hands.

Dead bearings are usually caused by oiling problems (thin oil, low oil, etc), which is why they wanted to see the records.

Last edited by the suicidal eggroll; 11-03-2012 at 02:20 PM.
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:40 PM   #3
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If you got the oil change at a Subaru dealership I think you should be alright as far as warranty goes. If you got it changed at jiffy lube or something like that they would probably make you pay for repairs and tell you to file a claim with whoever did the oil change.
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Old 11-03-2012, 04:11 PM   #4
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A problem of such an extreme as a spun rod bearing that requires a whole new short block could arise just out of the blue like that? Its a brand new car I'm just reluctant to believe that something like this could happen so soon and for no apparent reason. I really really hope thats not the case. Is there anything on my part I could have done to prevent this or is it mostly bad luck? Thanks for your help.
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:00 PM   #5
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Spun bearings can be caused by any number of things, including:

1) failure to warm the engine up properly before driving aggressively
2) low oil
3) thin oil (wrong viscosity for driving conditions)
4) cracked oil pickup tube
5) detonation (bad tune, bad gas)

There are other causes, but those are the most common ones.
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:39 PM   #6
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I'd wait to hear back before jumping to conclusions on what you could have done wrong and with only 6k miles, i'd like to think that it is more bad luck than anything. However, I do agree with eggroll to let the motor warm up before pushing the car and it is highly recommended to check oil levels as some motors/people burn through it. I don't know why Subaru doesn't set a rev limiter for when the motor is cold, the two vehicles I had before Subaru's both had them.

For the record, my legacy gt did not burn oil and my wrx which has 5k miles has not burned any yet either.
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:45 PM   #7
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this is why i traded in my 2011 wrx for a 2013 evo gsr.... i had so many worries about the car going KABOOM! especially ringland failure ( cast pistons..... )

i had 9k miles on mine and it started to drive and feel very nasty and not good.. i traded her in the next day...
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwongx27 View Post
this is why i traded in my 2011 wrx for a 2013 evo gsr.... i had so many worries about the car going KABOOM! especially ringland failure ( cast pistons..... )

i had 9k miles on mine and it started to drive and feel very nasty and not good.. i traded her in the next day...
its hit or miss man. i have 50k on my 08 wrx with it being vf52 swapped,stage 3 tune and running at 22 psi. ive never been to the dealer for anything in almost 5 years. still on stock clutch and brake pads even! op, i hope you get the issue sorted out though.
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:01 PM   #9
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ANY car can have issues. If you let every little thing get to you how do you leave the house, you could be in a car accident or struck by lightning or bitten by a deadly spider...
If you go to car forums you are going to hear about problems but there is still a large percentage of people that don't.
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Old 11-03-2012, 11:25 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backseatwindowsup View Post
I came across a 335 who was looking to make his morning commute a little more enjoyable. All I'm going to say is that I humbly granted his request and thoroughly enjoyed the remaining few minutes of my commute with some rather "spirited driving."
Well that is where you went wrong! This isnt something you should be surprised by. Admit it or not, or dont remember.... but you OBVIOUSLY hovered around the high RPM range too long! Sitting there at 7k+ RMP's in a subaru is never going to end well. You cant run that engine up to high RMP and keep it there holding full boost or hold it near the limiter for more than a fraction of a second. You did just take it there for too long, how do I know? because you spun a bearing while trying to keep up with a 335! Its youre fault, man up and tell the dealer! Dont stick it to them for youre own mistake sir. You didnt buy a race car, dont expect it to hold up like one.

Last edited by UK-Wagon; 11-03-2012 at 11:33 PM.
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Old 11-04-2012, 12:21 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by UK-Wagon View Post
Well that is where you went wrong! This isnt something you should be surprised by. Admit it or not, or dont remember.... but you OBVIOUSLY hovered around the high RPM range too long! Sitting there at 7k+ RMP's in a subaru is never going to end well. You cant run that engine up to high RMP and keep it there holding full boost or hold it near the limiter for more than a fraction of a second. You did just take it there for too long, how do I know? because you spun a bearing while trying to keep up with a 335! Its youre fault, man up and tell the dealer! Dont stick it to them for youre own mistake sir. You didnt buy a race car, dont expect it to hold up like one.
I applaud your deductive reasoning skills sir but on a completely stock brand new vehicle I really would not expect something like this to occur so "easily." I've beaten my 1997 civic harder than this. Yes the driving was spirited but consider the following conditions:

1) The duration of the "race" was no longer than 4 minutes, most of it spent behind safe drivers cruising at the speed limit
2) There was enough traffic on the road to prevent me from sitting there at X mph/ +7k rpms for more than 10 seconds at a time
3) I had been driving for over 15 minutes prior, giving the engine ample time to warm up.
4) It is BRAND NEW and COMPLETELY UNMODIFIED

It wasn't a wide open road where we slammed the pedal to the metal and watched in awe as our cars achieved top speed and sat there at redline for 20 minutes straight, heck not even 30 seconds straight.

Surely no one on this board will attest to the "weakness" of these blocks. The transmission, perhaps, based on fables from older generations, but from the information I've gathered on this forum over the past few months the stock block with stock parts and stock tune, aside from running lean at certain intervals, should be able to hold up just fine.

One single street race, however stupid that may be, should no way in he!! lead unanimously to the conclusion that my block is fried. I did not buy a Subaru for this.
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Old 11-04-2012, 12:43 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backseatwindowsup View Post

Surely no one on this board will attest to the "weakness" of these blocks.

One single street race, however stupid that may be, should no way in he!! lead unanimously to the conclusion that my block is fried. I did not buy a Subaru for this.
Really now? guess you havent been here long or around subarus enough.

No you cant beat on it like that with the garbage (recycled aluminum beer can) bearings these engines have and how small the rod bearings are. Be prepared for many engines in this car if you plan to drive it like that again on a stock short block.
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:53 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UK-Wagon View Post
Really now? guess you havent been here long or around subarus enough.

No you cant beat on it like that with the garbage (recycled aluminum beer can) bearings these engines have and how small the rod bearings are. Be prepared for many engines in this car if you plan to drive it like that again on a stock short block.
So you're telling him it's his fault... and then blaming it on how bad the bearings are? I'm confused what you're getting at lol.

Anyways good luck with the car OP. Hope they cover it. A new car shouldn't have problems with spirited driving. What's the point of getting a WRX then..
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:32 AM   #14
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Assuming the OP is telling us the whole story and didn't do something like a mis-shift, there really should be no reason why these motors can't handle extended high rpm use. If they can't, then I guess I've bought the wrong car. There are tons of guys that run GR WRXs in the auto-x without problems and those cars are being driven hard for 1 to 1.5 minutes with high Gs sloshing the oil around.

People on this site act like this motor is so damn fragile and if you run it into the upper operational range, it's your fault for the motor breaking. Absolutely silly. I've been modding cars since 1996 and have had many different makes. This is the ONLY site I've ever been a part of where people blame owners for driving an advertized car performance car a bit frisky. I'm not saying these cars should be able to handle extended track use, but they should easily be able to handle auto-x, light road course racing, and 1/4 mile racing with little fear of the motor imploding assuming the motor is stock.
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Old 11-04-2012, 03:50 AM   #15
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I would wait to pass judgement on the OP until we hear the results of the inspection, and I would not be so quick to point the finger of judgement .. especially considering the car is stock with low miles.

As with anything mass produced, there will always be a few bad ones or lemons.
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Old 11-04-2012, 11:19 AM   #16
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OP you did nothing wrong. The car should not have spun a bearing like that. Especially if its bone stock. Let the dealer fix it.
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Old 11-04-2012, 12:13 PM   #17
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I'm with Derek11WRX.

I purchased my car from a subaru dealer in chicago. I too have a 2012 wrx. I have 7k miles on mine. No serious issues so far. I mean, it's a subaru...at 7k miles my exhaust sheilds are rattling, my entire interior rattles and my drivers seat squeaks..but no serious problems.

I understand what you're getting at. Let's face it, we are getting ripped off by purchasing a new wrx. They are no where near the build quality or refinement that other cars in that price range are...so the least SOA can do is to fix our unmodded, unabused cars when they break under warranty. If you buy a brand new sports car, you expect it to be durable enough to withstand some spirited driving. However, there is a fine line between spirited driving and abuse. I would say 10-20% of the car enthusiasts i know drive spiritedly..while the rest abuse their cars.

I seriously hope they fix your car, provide you with a rental, and do it all at no cost..but if you're out drag racing your car, "grabbing gears", and bouncing off the rev limiter every time you drive.. then that's a different story. From what you've stated, that is not what-so-ever the case.

Best of luck to you..i hope i'm not in the same boat anytime soon. Feel free to PM me since i'm in the area.
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Old 11-04-2012, 02:45 PM   #18
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AutoX does not require Sustained High RPM for long periods of time. Its a second or so and at low speed, and boost for a fraction of a few seconds. So its pretty harmless to the engine. This is about what the stock bearings can handle, a few seconds at at time, with no sustained high RPM for long periods of time.

Lets talk about where OP was. Highway!
"Spirited driving"..... while trying to keep up with a 335 in a stock WRX!! You mean to tell me you think OP was driving "spirited"??? You gotta be kidding me. The SPUN BEARING tells the damn story!! No bearing lets go under spirited driving with OE engine bearings. Op, is not being honest here. Or he sat at full boost at 6k+ RPM for god knows how long and thus over heated the crap OE bearings. OE bearings are made of Aluminum and steel, they are total garbage! Any aftermarket bearing would hold up better to that abuse, thats why people switch to ACL, King or Clevite77. But hey dont take my word for it, Ive only rebuilt a few dozen or more EJ engines...... Im must not know what im talking about then eh?

Summary; Op stated he was racing at time of failure. Other members here say its not his fault . Sure that makes plenty of sense

Last edited by UK-Wagon; 11-04-2012 at 03:09 PM.
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Old 11-04-2012, 02:50 PM   #19
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OR it could have been low on oil. You're assuming the failure is due to his driving, which again you are assuming he drove like an asshat sitting at 7K when his stock WRX rev limiter is 6500. Its highly unlikley his driving was the direct cause of a spun bearing.
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Old 11-04-2012, 03:06 PM   #20
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Its highly unlikley his driving was the direct cause of a spun bearing.
Explain your opinion!!!!
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Old 11-04-2012, 03:41 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UK-Wagon View Post
AutoX does not require Sustained High RPM for long periods of time. Its a second or so and at low speed, and boost for a fraction of a few seconds. So its pretty harmless to the engine. This is about what the stock bearings can handle, a few seconds at at time, with no sustained high RPM for long periods of time.

Lets talk about where OP was. Highway!
"Spirited driving"..... while trying to keep up with a 335 in a stock WRX!! You mean to tell me you think OP was driving "spirited"??? You gotta be kidding me. The SPUN BEARING tells the damn story!! No bearing lets go under spirited driving with OE engine bearings. Op, is not being honest here. Or he sat at full boost at 6k+ RPM for god knows how long and thus over heated the crap OE bearings. OE bearings are made of Aluminum and steel, they are total garbage! Any aftermarket bearing would hold up better to that abuse, thats why people switch to ACL, King or Clevite77. But hey dont take my word for it, Ive only rebuilt a few dozen or more EJ engines...... Im must not know what im talking about then eh?

Summary; Op stated he was racing at time of failure. Other members here say its not his fault . Sure that makes plenty of sense
Look, I know you are a Subaru God and I mean that in a very respectful way. You have a lot of experience and I enjoy reading what you say. However, it sounds like you're jumping to some conclusions and making very broad assumptions. I don't disagree that extended high rpms can wreck a motor, but we also know that these cars, on occasion have bearing issues. One bearing issue of which led to a recall of turbo EJ25 motors.
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Old 11-04-2012, 03:50 PM   #22
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Dealers closed on sunday. I'm waiting to hear back from them tomorrow to see what they say about it. If its not a spun bearing is there anything else you can think of that could be causing said rattle?

Thanks to everyone for your opinions and responses. I explained the story 100% correctly to the best of my ability. I posted on this forum to get a complete, unbiased opinion on what could be wrong with the car. There's no reason why I would be lying to you guys or hiding something from you. I'm looking for accurate answers, and I couldn't get them if I didn't divulge all the information.

UK- i respect your opinions and expertise but I can't accept that my driving was solely responsible for screwing something up this badly. If you want more "proof":

Illinois Interstate I-88, from naperville rd to highland avenue: ~6 miles
8:45 AM rush hour traffic is fairly heavy on this road.
I could not possibly have been sitting with my foot on the floor revved all the way up as if I was on a drag strip going top speed for that much time. If anything I was putting more work into the tranny and the brakes than I was the engine. If you have any other logical conclusions that could be helpful I'd love to hear them.

Thanks again guys.
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:00 PM   #23
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The fact that the techs see reason to believe that the pan should be dropped would lead us to believe they think there's a problem with the motor. There's an off chance that it could be something with the transmission, but I'd think they would have figured that one out quickly.

What you're descibing sounds very much like a bearing/rod issue. In another very recent thread, an owner of a 2013 WRX with 1,000 miles just got notice that his short block is toast. His motor was knocking very badly. No mods and normal driving.
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:01 PM   #24
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I drive a 2012 wrx 4dr it has 1800 miles on it. Should I be worried about this problem? I was planning to go Cobb stage 2 with it after 5000 miles! And reading all these threads I'm having second thoughts about it! Should I change out my bearing with aftermarket and then do the stage 2 tune? Or should I change my bearings and my pistons and rods aaand then do the stage 2 tune? My brothers 09 wrx has been stage 2 for 25k+ and no problems at all stock internals stock intercooler and stock intake box with knn air filter and a full catless turboback exhaust and Cobb AP! Oh and he drives it like its stolen sometimes and goes over 7k rpms and it sound nice!! No problems so far!
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:34 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Subie904 View Post
I drive a 2012 wrx 4dr it has 1800 miles on it. Should I be worried about this problem? I was planning to go Cobb stage 2 with it after 5000 miles! And reading all these threads I'm having second thoughts about it! Should I change out my bearing with aftermarket and then do the stage 2 tune? Or should I change my bearings and my pistons and rods aaand then do the stage 2 tune? My brothers 09 wrx has been stage 2 for 25k+ and no problems at all stock internals stock intercooler and stock intake box with knn air filter and a full catless turboback exhaust and Cobb AP! Oh and he drives it like its stolen sometimes and goes over 7k rpms and it sound nice!! No problems so far!
No, you do not need to be worried, but obviously if you plan to mod you need to be prepared for possible issues if they arise.
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