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Old 04-27-2013, 03:06 PM   #251
Zee Biker
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I cannot be alone in wondering why you stepped up 22# in turbo size when you wouldn't even push the Black because you're motor wouldn't handle it.
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:30 PM   #252
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We got up to 28-29 psi on the black before it grenaded...is that not "pushing it"?
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Old 04-27-2013, 04:45 PM   #253
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That's some fine boost, but this thread is littered with notes about keeping things under full boil because of the motor, between the lowered timing (rods) or redline (head setup).

Merely thinking out loud, The quoted VD's from EVO's and rumor's of 30#+ were never realized is all I'm saying.
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:57 PM   #254
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Well, according to the guys at fp Juan's black was over spun which caused the failure. I'm 99% sure his stock bpv was leaking, causing the boost to fall off and cause the turbo to overspin.....which in turn would be a hot blow dryer....which would account for lower numbers.
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:04 PM   #255
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Stock BPV at 29psi?
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:59 AM   #256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juanmedina View Post

My engine bay has never been the nicest:

I need to get a custom intake.

It seems that I have to take the transmission out... I cannot get the car in gear so is going to be a couple of weeks before I can post any results. So far it made 412whp 3rd gear on wastegate pressure 17.8psi. I also what to swap my bellhousing with an older bellhousing so I can use my speedo.

Does anyone has any experience with ACT 4-puck. I always had issues trying to get into third gear when drag racing. I am currently running the ACT xtreme plate a full face disk. I have used the 6-puck sprung clutch before with my five speed and I wonder if the 4-puck will help me with my third gear shifting issue. I only drive the car like once a week.
That's good power at 18 psi. How does it spool from the feel?

It would seem that you should be able to find a used bell housing from a broken box, maybe contact andrewtech to see if they have a used one. I think new ones are around 400.

Why do you think the ACT XT SS clutch is preventing you from shifting into 3rd, unless its shot? Did you put the clutch in new when you swapped the 6 speed? I have this same clutch and it works flawlessly shifting up and down in all gears. It will hold 560 WTQ and last longer than the 4 puck. If all you're going to do is drag the car then I understand the switch to a 4 or 6 puck but I think the full face is a better street disc.
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:15 AM   #257
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manitou, the XT SS is capable of 560ftlbs at the flywheel not at the wheels. Will it hold that much power at the wheels, yes, but is it rated to that, no. The XT 6-puck and 4-pucks are the only ones ACT has that are capable of handling over 500wtq.

I have driven the unsprung xtreme duty 4-puck, the sprung xtreme duty 6-puck, and the sprung xtreme duty full face. If you are having trouble getting into a gear, I highly doubt it is the clutch. As far as driveability goes, even the unsprung 4-puck isn't bad on the street once you learn the sweet spot of the clutch. In my opinion, the sprung 6-puck is the perfect "middleman" that gives better power handling than the full face but still has very nice daily driving behavior. The unsprung 4-puck isn't hard by any means to drive daily, but it definitely isn't as enjoyable in stop-go traffic as the sprung 6-puck or full face, which is expected. It also is much less forgiving on the drivetrain and any kind of missteps while shifting due to how instant the shifts are with an unsprung 4-puck.
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:50 PM   #258
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Another benefit of the solid (unsprung) discs is that they are way lighter than the sprung disks. For example, the 6 speed, 6 puck ACT disks:

ACT 6 Puck Sprung: 2,115g
ACT 6 Puck Unsprung: 1,165g

That's a pretty big difference. The disk spins along with the tranny so it is directly related to how quickly the synchro's will be able to match and go into the next gear.

I have had the full face sprung, 4 puck sprung, and 6 puck unsprung on my car. I think the 6 puck unsprung actually chatters way less (practically none) than the 4 puck sprung I had.

The puck clutches definitely do take a while to get used to though. They grab a lot harder and faster than the full face disks. Great for pounding through the gears.

BTW, my car is a true daily driver. Work and back every day and pick up my daughter from daycare on the way home. Unsprung disks really aren't that hard to drive.
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:02 PM   #259
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yup...like I said, unsprung discs aren't bad at all once you find that sweet spot and get used to them. It is amazing how fast the gear change can be with the unsprung 4-puck without even trying to be that fast...just make sure the rest of your drivetrain is up for it.
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:52 PM   #260
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I may have to try the un-sprung 6 puck when it's time to replace my full face. I'm super happy with my XT full face in grab at launch, ease of shifting up and down and overall drive-abilitiy. I work at being easy on my clutches and transmissions. Blipping/ rev matching down shifts and quick up changes with minimal clutch pedal time. Thanks to Junior my XTI is making power in a very linear and smooth torque curve and not spike and fall. So it's easier on the clutch!
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:43 AM   #261
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It seems that I need to hardwire the pump. Should I just get this kit? http://www.deatschwerks.com/products...ion-kit-detail

Any suggestions? advice?

Thanks
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:49 AM   #262
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Buying that kit makes it easy, but you could piece together everything in that kit on your own for like half the price...just have the hassle of tracking down or ordering all the parts. For the ease of getting everything already packaged together in a kit, I say just get that. Plus, $40 isn't expensive anyways.
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:55 AM   #263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juanmedina View Post
It seems that I need to hardwire the pump. Should I just get this kit? http://www.deatschwerks.com/products...ion-kit-detail

Any suggestions? advice?

Thanks
I'll look around to see if I can find it but I found another kit for the same price that came with a 10 gauge feed instead of 12. Can't go wrong with bigger wire.
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:21 AM   #264
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There are plenty of kits out there, but these are the only other ones I have saved in my favorites:

http://www.jayracing.com/fuel-pump-w...-kit-p-63.html

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...rewire_kit.htm


...I personally am a big fan of anything jayracing makes so...their kit gets my vote as the best, but really any kit will do...or just buy some amp wiring and pick up the relay and fuse to make your own kit.
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:14 AM   #265
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I have the STM kit. I like that it comes with a pigtail connector for the relay (in case the relay ever goes out it's a plug and play swap, not a bunch more soldering). Much better for troubleshooting at the track or on the side of the road if it ever comes to that.

EDIT: I think they actually want you to use spade connectors to the relay. I guess that works, but I still like the adapter the STM comes with.

I did have an issue with the inline fuse in the STM kit. The plastic on the fuse melted and my pump stopped receiving power. The fuse element was actually still intact, but it wasn't allowing any current through. I replaced the fuse with a new one and it seems to be fine now.
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Old 04-30-2013, 12:41 PM   #266
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Thanks guys. I am going to need a FPR as well.
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Old 04-30-2013, 12:50 PM   #267
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why do you need a fpr? aren't you running 2000cc injectors?
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:03 PM   #268
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If you want to make let's say 750 CHP at 43.5 psi base then you will need roughly 1500cc injectors and 30 psi boost and about 362 lph of pump. So your stock FPR will suffice with your 2000cc injectors as amalgrover is eluding to above. So you probably don't need and adjustable FPR. What does the Wally 465 flow at 43.5 psi and 13.6 volts? I lost that chart!
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:08 PM   #269
manitou
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I'm using the DW hardwire kit with my Walbro 465 because DW gave it to me for my troubles with their injectors. It has the same type of PnP relay connection as the STM kit except they supply 12 gauge wire, which is big enough but if you're buying a new one I would go with the STM or JR for the 10 gauge wire!
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:09 PM   #270
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I am running 2200cc injectors. The question is.... if I hardwire the 460lph pump will I over run the stock FPR?
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:25 PM   #271
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It's not that the stock FPR pressure can't handle it! I think the real question is; will your stock fuel lines flow enough to handle 750 CHP and or should you upgrade your fuel lines to the firewall?
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:32 PM   #272
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I think that both will handle it just fine. Obviously, you will see some increase in flow by going to aftermarket rails, but I don't think that flow will be an issue for you at all even with the stock rails.
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:50 PM   #273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
It's not that the stock FPR pressure can't handle it! I think the real question is; will your stock fuel lines flow enough to handle 750 CHP and or should you upgrade your fuel lines to the firewall?
We have seen people making way more than that on stock fuel lines

Quote:
Originally Posted by amalgrover View Post
I think that both will handle it just fine. Obviously, you will see some increase in flow by going to aftermarket rails, but I don't think that flow will be an issue for you at all even with the stock rails.
Xluben had problems with the 460lph hardwired pump with stock FPR IIRC..
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:56 PM   #274
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If you are worried about it over-running the regulator at idle and cruising, just keep the factory pump controller in the mix, and then it won't operate at 100% at idle and while cruising.



...or get a BAP instead ...
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Old 04-30-2013, 02:39 PM   #275
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Yeah, the hardwired 465 over ran my FPR at idle. I don't see any way to keep the factory pump controller in the loop (at least for the schematic on my model year) unless I run the power wiring back through the controller (and then there's almost no point to hardwire).
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