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Old 12-18-2012, 11:45 PM   #76
naked_dave1
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Just finished glassing. This is not the final version, it's a test. As I've never done fiberglassing before so I want to see how things turn out. I'll use this piece to see how everything will fit and placement for the final product.

There are two layers of fiberglass, how many would you guys recommend?

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Old 12-20-2012, 07:25 PM   #77
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Update:

Got it glassed two days ago and took it out of the mold last night. Things did not go smoothly, as I expected. I think I did not add enough hardener so it took about a day to cure to something that was workable.

How I glassed it was I had a large sheet of fiberglass that fit the height of the model with the curves. The flat sides I had about 2in squares I stuck on. I was having issues with the pieces staying in place. That caused some air bubbles to get inside.

After I taped the mold I waxed it so it would be easier to take out, but that didn't seem to help, took two hours to get the damn thing out. I wanted to be careful as I didn't want to break my iPad. I think I'll be getting a fake iPad for the molds. The odd shape make it difficult to get out smoothly, if it was just the iPad it would have been a piece of cake. The side of the mold without the curves was the part that was sticking the most. I had to cut the back of the mold so I could push on it, luckily that part is going to get cut anyways for the radio.

Also, on the edge where the iPad is, resin went over the edges so it enclosed it so I had to chip away to get the mold out. On the final mold I'll tape the whole mold on a board and tape it so the resign doesn't creep underneath and should make it easier to get out and a better looking edges as well.

I cut the edges and sanded things down on the mold to fit the radio bezel, and I also trimmed the bezel on the bottom to make it fit. The vents were cut back, but it's looking like it won't fit the the mold the way it currently is. On the mold the section, behind the iPad, is too low to fit. I can't cut more of the top off the vent as the back fins won't stay in place and work. So, when I make the final mold I'll move that back section up so everything clears.

Testing the magnets and they hold the iPad in, but you'd need a lip at the bottom or have the cable hold it in completely. If not the bottom will rattle and/or fall out if you drive hard.


















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Old 12-20-2012, 07:51 PM   #78
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Still looks really good even though your'e having some issues. Im convinced to try this my self.
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:32 PM   #79
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That looks fantastic, outstanding job for your first fiberglass work!
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Old 12-21-2012, 06:33 PM   #80
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Test fitting in the car. Looks like everything clears. It's going to be a very tight fit for the radio as the depth is shallow and the back of the radio is hitting...


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Old 12-21-2012, 06:39 PM   #81
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Would it be possible to aim the HU at an angle? I understand there's a round bar directly behind the top half of the HU slot, so maybe you can aim the HU such that the back can remain under that brace.
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Old 12-24-2012, 11:24 PM   #82
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I like what you've done so far. I'm thinking of doing something similar and trying to figure out how I will be able to run my system through the iPad Mini. I wonder if there is a way to use it as a HU? Does anyone know if there are any ways to do this, or would you have to use some sort of signal processor to connect to the amp and run everything else?

Either way, props to you.
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Old 12-25-2012, 04:43 AM   #83
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I like it man, its looking good, How much will you sell them for rough unfinished

no but really PM me hah
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:53 PM   #84
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Thats nice
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:38 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourmicah View Post
I like what you've done so far. I'm thinking of doing something similar and trying to figure out how I will be able to run my system through the iPad Mini. I wonder if there is a way to use it as a HU? Does anyone know if there are any ways to do this, or would you have to use some sort of signal processor to connect to the amp and run everything else?

Either way, props to you.
Do you want to eliminate the HU all together and go straight to the speakers through the ipad? I mean you would have to have some sorta amp or median source. try this thing called google see what people have tried. or find a local car audio shop and talk to them about it see if there is hardware that always you to erase the HU
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Old 12-26-2012, 12:15 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourmicah View Post
I like what you've done so far. I'm thinking of doing something similar and trying to figure out how I will be able to run my system through the iPad Mini. I wonder if there is a way to use it as a HU? Does anyone know if there are any ways to do this, or would you have to use some sort of signal processor to connect to the amp and run everything else?

Either way, props to you.
It's possible to do. If you check out the videos I posted in this thread you'll see that's how they did theirs. They used an Audison Bit Ten signal that the iPad was connected to.
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Old 12-28-2012, 01:27 AM   #87
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Update:

Created the final tray. This time the results where a bit better. I taped up the whole table thingy I was working as the paper bags I used last time were not flat enough. I pre cut and test fitting two sheets of fiberglass so it would be stronger and easier than multiple little pieces of it. Before I glassed I test fitted the magnets buy setting them on the iPad and see where they where the strongest. I marked them so I knew where they would go once I got going. I still had issues on the sharp corners with the fiberglass and resin not sticking and getting air bubbles. So along the edge of the iPad there where air bubbles and once I took it out you could see the gaps.







Got the vents and the tray glued in with epoxy to the radio bezel. I still have yet to glue the bar where you see the gap between the tray and vents.

Got the part I was dreading the most, fitting the radio. I figured it'd be the hardest as I have to match the radio and tray up in 3D space so a lot of things could go wrong and not line up. But, thankfully everything did! I had to create my own brackets so everything would position correctly. I took some measurements the best I could and created the mounts out of some aluminum. It was thin so it was flexible to bend in the right positions. In the photos I wanted to test fit everything so the single DIN radio does not have the little black bezel on so it might look a little rough on the inside of the tray by the radio.

Suck the iPad on to check the clearance to make sure the radio did not hit the back of it. Everything is fitting like a charm and everything has been very tight for clearances so far. The radio just fit far back enough, don't think it could go back any farther unless you did some heavy modifications or titled the radio on a good angle.

Still can't think of an elegant and durable solution for the lightning cable. So what I'm going to do for now is just have the cable that came with the iPad and have it hanging out. I'll plug it into the iPad then snake the cable back thought the hole when I want to mount it.

If any of you plan on doing something like this, make your life way easier and sick the radio somewhere else. I would be done by now if I just created the iPad tray like you saw in the videos I posted...

I hope to have most of it done tomorrow. can't wait to get this done, it's been a bit overwhelming! But now that everyone is interested I have to finish it haha. And I'm doing all this with very limited tools (dremel) in my apartment or the basement.












Last edited by naked_dave1; 12-28-2012 at 01:35 AM. Reason: Added content
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Old 12-28-2012, 01:37 PM   #88
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Update

Looks like I'll be able to use the 90° connector I have. The actual male part on the lighting plug is short enough that it doesn't need to bend much to get the iPad in. I had to trim a bit on the PC board to make it fit and I used hot glue to keep it in place. I figured hot glue would give a little flex, and it does. I don't think in the long run it will put much strain on either the iPad port or the plug.





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Old 12-28-2012, 02:03 PM   #89
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You are the man
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:22 PM   #90
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Update

...I hate body filler...

About 90% done, just have to do the final body work. I started a little but had to go out of town so I did what I could and put a coat of primer on. Never worked with body filler and I can't get it to do what I want. I have tight corners and spaces to work with which doesn't help. I try to fill some small holes but can't get the filler to stay or fill in the hole completely. Another issue I'm having is getting a smooth transition between the body filler and the plastic. I used rougher 80 grit sand paper to get the basic shape, then 140, the finer paper. So, any tips would be helpful!

Also, I cracked the solder connection on the plug while test fitting the suede. It still works and charges when it's full in, but as soon as I start to take it out it looses connection. I'll have to see how long it'll last and what else I can do about it. I might take it out and re-solder it and make that joint stronger.

You can click on the pic to see the larger version to see my crappy body work lol

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Old 12-29-2012, 08:04 PM   #91
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Outstanding job dave.
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Old 12-30-2012, 01:32 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naked_dave1 View Post
Update

...I hate body filler...

About 90% done, just have to do the final body work. I started a little but had to go out of town so I did what I could and put a coat of primer on. Never worked with body filler and I can't get it to do what I want. I have tight corners and spaces to work with which doesn't help. I try to fill some small holes but can't get the filler to stay or fill in the hole completely. Another issue I'm having is getting a smooth transition between the body filler and the plastic. I used rougher 80 grit sand paper to get the basic shape, then 140, the finer paper. So, any tips would be helpful!


What are you using for filler? You'll want to use a finishing filler/putty like this -
USC Icing 24 oz tube - Glazing & Finishing Filler Putty : Amazon.com : AutomotiveUSC Icing 24 oz tube - Glazing & Finishing Filler Putty : Amazon.com : Automotive
I've always had great luck with it after my initial shape and rough sanding is done with a thicker filler, it works great for getting in the small pin holes and smoothing out the shape.

On the plastic to filler transition, you'll want to grind the plastic down so there's a good taper that the filler can cover, you do not want a 90 degree edge when the filler meets the plastic.

The above mentioned Icing works well to blend this transition as well, cover the plastic with it as well past the point of the seam a ways. Also be sure the plastic is sanded with a rougher grit so the filler can make a good bond.

Any piece I ever plan on painting I like to use a good two part polyester filler primer, a small HVLP gun is needed to shoot it though but a good on the heavy side coat will do the trick. There are some decent rattle can versions like this one -
Amazon.com: SEM High Build Primer Surfacer, Aerosol, Black, Pt# 42003: AutomotiveAmazon.com: SEM High Build Primer Surfacer, Aerosol, Black, Pt# 42003: Automotive
SEM in general makes some great paint for spray can stuff. If you go this route spray 3 - 4 coats on waiting between each for the previous to dry, then do a final sanding. You'll want the entire piece to be covered in a few coats of primer to help hide the transition so don't sand too much.

- Todd
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:10 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgp250r View Post
What are you using for filler? You'll want to use a finishing filler/putty like this - USC Icing 24 oz tube - Glazing & Finishing Filler Putty : Amazon.com : Automotive I've always had great luck with it after my initial shape and rough sanding is done with a thicker filler, it works great for getting in the small pin holes and smoothing out the shape.

On the plastic to filler transition, you'll want to grind the plastic down so there's a good taper that the filler can cover, you do not want a 90 degree edge when the filler meets the plastic.

The above mentioned Icing works well to blend this transition as well, cover the plastic with it as well past the point of the seam a ways. Also be sure the plastic is sanded with a rougher grit so the filler can make a good bond.

Any piece I ever plan on painting I like to use a good two part polyester filler primer, a small HVLP gun is needed to shoot it though but a good on the heavy side coat will do the trick. There are some decent rattle can versions like this one - Amazon.com: SEM High Build Primer Surfacer, Aerosol, Black, Pt# 42003: Automotive SEM in general makes some great paint for spray can stuff. If you go this route spray 3 - 4 coats on waiting between each for the previous to dry, then do a final sanding. You'll want the entire piece to be covered in a few coats of primer to help hide the transition so don't sand too much.

- Todd
Thanks for the advice Todd! I'll follow your suggestions and work on the piece this week when I get back into town.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:15 PM   #94
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Update

bondo, sand, bondo, sand, primer, dry, sand, bondo, sand, primer, dry, sand, primer, dry… It's very time consuming doing body work to make it look nice. But, it's getting there!

I'm trying to figure out my plan of attack for getting the suede in there. I'd like to cover the whole inside of the pan, but I don't think I have the skills or know how to do that and make it look nice. I'm looking around for local upholstery shops to see if they could do it. Any tips or ideas??

The lightning 90° adapter broke at the solder joint. I was going to fix it, but I might try using the cable that came with the iPad. It's looking like it'll just fit without hitting the left side. The cable also looks stronger in case of bending it too far when I take it out.

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Old 01-03-2013, 11:20 PM   #95
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Yeah, the cable's a much better protected/made. Bends easily and still low profile.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:26 PM   #96
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Just a thought on finishing work... If you didnt want to spend all that time sanding, you could go with like a vinyl wrap that was texted like carbon fiber vinyl wrap save a bunch of time
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:50 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8sPFFF06sti View Post
Just a thought on finishing work... If you didnt want to spend all that time sanding, you could go with like a vinyl wrap that was texted like carbon fiber vinyl wrap save a bunch of time
I was really considering something like that, but I don't know if I'd like the look. I know I wouldn't like the carbon fiber vinyl. I also think I'd be a pain the the add to apply it with all the tight complex corners.
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:11 PM   #98
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Sooooo much effort! Nice work
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:23 PM   #99
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Would there be any interest in me getting these mass produced in a sold plastic like the stock bezel so it'd be almost plug and play? If so, how much would you pay for something like this realistically?

Similar to this?
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2098577
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:46 PM   #100
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Yeah people would buy them... 100 bucks ( if it worked very well)
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