No more AWD on 4EAT 95' Legacy L ???

DomAntonelli · 07-04-2011, 12:45 AM

Hi ! I'm new to the NASIOC, but I've done a lot of research about my issue (approx. more than 10 hours), as much on this wonderful site than on other sites. I have a 95 Legacy L 2.2L with a 4EAT tranny. A couple months ago my AWD stopped working properly and is now totally non-working.

There is no fuse in the FWD fuse box, my car shifts like a boss and there is no torque bind. I floored the gas while on D, 1, 2 and 3 on a gravel road and the only thing that happens is my tires slipping like hell (smells like hell too ...). On every thread I read no solutions were given for similar problem or thread just died with time.

I was thinking about failure with Duty Solenoid C, but if I'm right AWD should be locked in 45/55 when it occurs (or in 50/50, can someone confirms?). I've put my car on jack posts and put the tranny on D, all wheels were rotating correctly but rear wheels could be stopped with an hand, so I guess my car is locked on 90/10...

I'm looking for an easy to medium difficulty repair has I have limited assortment of tools and money (saving some for University). I would like to find a solution without going to the dealer, as just finding the problem would cost more than a hundred bucks. I pulled the codes but just had P0105, which is for MAP malfunction...

What could be wrong ?

I know that this site totally rocks and I'm sure to find a solution but I'm in a little hurry since work is taking most of my time. Thanks in advance for responses !!!

p.s. Please no useless questions like ''How can you tell your AWD isn't working ?''... Got stuck this winter in my flat driveway in less than a foot of snow. No stability on winter road and slipping tires every time I accelerate after a stop (in winter too).

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383 GUY · 12-05-2012, 07:30 PM

My 95 is doing the same thing but the tires are not turning at all with it on jack stands. Go to awd not working and read the info from pamike. That mite help, or if you find any more info please send it to me 383 GUY.

SpamBot · 12-05-2012, 08:40 PM

Your problem could be a pressure problem, or a mechanical one.

Duty Solenoid C (and a small valve body under it) regulate the hydraulic pressure applied to the transfer clutch pack. If there is no DTC for the solenoid, you can assume the electrical portion is working. However, the solenoid, or it's valve body, could be mechanically stuck and non functional.

You could also have a case of a worn out transfer clutch pack, or the teflon seal rings on the output shaft could be worn and allowing hydraulic pressure to leak past them.

The only sure way to diagnose this is with a transmission pressure gauge. You'd have to lower the rear of the trans and use a banjo fitting adapter to tap into the test port on the extension housing. If you have pressure at a stall test and no AWD, it's mechanical. Removing the extension housing is not a difficult job on a lift, and once off you can check the clutch clearance, clean the valve body under the solenoid and replace the teflon seal rings on the output shaft.

Long odds, but not impossible, is that the TCM is not working correctly. You would need a scan tool capable of communicating with the TCM to determine if the duty ratio is varying with throttle opening and range selection.

07-04-2011, 12:45 AM	#1
DomAntonelli Scooby Newbie Member#: 287418 Join Date: Jul 2011 Chapter/Region: E. Canada Location: Quebec Vehicle: 1999 Impreza L Silverthorn	No more AWD on 4EAT 95' Legacy L ??? Hi ! I'm new to the NASIOC, but I've done a lot of research about my issue (approx. more than 10 hours), as much on this wonderful site than on other sites. I have a 95 Legacy L 2.2L with a 4EAT tranny. A couple months ago my AWD stopped working properly and is now totally non-working. There is no fuse in the FWD fuse box, my car shifts like a boss and there is no torque bind. I floored the gas while on D, 1, 2 and 3 on a gravel road and the only thing that happens is my tires slipping like hell (smells like hell too ...). On every thread I read no solutions were given for similar problem or thread just died with time. I was thinking about failure with Duty Solenoid C, but if I'm right AWD should be locked in 45/55 when it occurs (or in 50/50, can someone confirms?). I've put my car on jack posts and put the tranny on D, all wheels were rotating correctly but rear wheels could be stopped with an hand, so I guess my car is locked on 90/10... I'm looking for an easy to medium difficulty repair has I have limited assortment of tools and money (saving some for University). I would like to find a solution without going to the dealer, as just finding the problem would cost more than a hundred bucks. I pulled the codes but just had P0105, which is for MAP malfunction... What could be wrong ? I know that this site totally rocks and I'm sure to find a solution but I'm in a little hurry since work is taking most of my time. Thanks in advance for responses !!! p.s. Please no useless questions like ''How can you tell your AWD isn't working ?''... Got stuck this winter in my flat driveway in less than a foot of snow. No stability on winter road and slipping tires every time I accelerate after a stop (in winter too). * Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

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12-05-2012, 07:30 PM	#2
383 GUY Scooby Newbie Member#: 338654 Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Stanwood wash Vehicle: 1995 Legacy wagon Brown 2.2 Auto	My 95 is doing the same thing but the tires are not turning at all with it on jack stands. Go to awd not working and read the info from pamike. That mite help, or if you find any more info please send it to me 383 GUY.

12-05-2012, 08:40 PM	#3
SpamBot Scooby Specialist Member#: 287534 Join Date: Jul 2011	Your problem could be a pressure problem, or a mechanical one. Duty Solenoid C (and a small valve body under it) regulate the hydraulic pressure applied to the transfer clutch pack. If there is no DTC for the solenoid, you can assume the electrical portion is working. However, the solenoid, or it's valve body, could be mechanically stuck and non functional. You could also have a case of a worn out transfer clutch pack, or the teflon seal rings on the output shaft could be worn and allowing hydraulic pressure to leak past them. The only sure way to diagnose this is with a transmission pressure gauge. You'd have to lower the rear of the trans and use a banjo fitting adapter to tap into the test port on the extension housing. If you have pressure at a stall test and no AWD, it's mechanical. Removing the extension housing is not a difficult job on a lift, and once off you can check the clutch clearance, clean the valve body under the solenoid and replace the teflon seal rings on the output shaft. Long odds, but not impossible, is that the TCM is not working correctly. You would need a scan tool capable of communicating with the TCM to determine if the duty ratio is varying with throttle opening and range selection.