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Old 01-03-2013, 05:43 PM   #76
aboothman
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Member#: 127745
Join Date: Oct 2006
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Humboldt County
Vehicle:
06 WRX 30r 6 speed
99L EJ255 6 Speed

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Don't want to gloat but I have been there...glad we could save you some time on the trouble shooting

Are you running your 07 without the air pump? There is a brief period of 11:1 AFR (about 15/20 seconds) on my 06 WRX but I doubt that is enough to wash the bores. The air is not injected into the combustion chamber so I doubt that caused any bore wash, but I thought I would throw it out there.
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:47 PM   #77
Acejam2k
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Member#: 42645
Join Date: Sep 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: MA
Vehicle:
2007 STI
Crystal Gray Metallic

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Quote:
Originally Posted by aboothman View Post
Don't want to gloat but I have been there...glad we could save you some time on the trouble shooting

Are you running your 07 without the air pump? There is a brief period of 11:1 AFR (about 15/20 seconds) on my 06 WRX but I doubt that is enough to wash the bores. The air is not injected into the combustion chamber so I doubt that caused any bore wash, but I thought I would throw it out there.
Yes, I have deleted the air pump. My car is tuned for 11.0:1, but I believe that's @ WOT. I think a combination of an easy break-in, combined with my old richer tune perhaps washed the bores a bit.
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:42 PM   #78
Bimmubishi
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Member#: 48713
Join Date: Nov 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
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1888 Bellipotent
Wooden

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wrong forum
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Old 03-16-2013, 06:27 PM   #79
Acejam2k
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Join Date: Sep 2003
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Location: MA
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2007 STI
Crystal Gray Metallic

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2 month later update:

I got the motor back in the car mid-January. Once everything was re-attached, I checked for leaks etc. After that, I filled the car up with Rotella 15W-40. I primed the motor, and then started it. It fired right up, and sounded great. I let the car fully warm up and burped the coolant. Once everything was warm (15-20 min), I drove around the block. Everything sounded good, so I took it out onto a side street and immediately gave it a WOT pull to ensure the rings would seat.

I opted to do a hard break-in on this motor, therefore I continued to do WOT pulls in each gear. After a pull, I would lift off the throttle and let the motor fully coast down in gear to 1500-2000rpm or so. I did this for another 30 minutes, and took it out onto the highway for some high speed pulls as well. I dumped the oil at 100 miles, then again at 300. The car was re-tuned with around 600 miles. I'm now at about 1100 miles and so far the car has been running awesome. I always let the car warm up so I'm going to keep running the Rotella 15W-40 since I'm seeing no oil consumption. I have looked into Rotella 5W-40 synthetic, but I see no reason to switch at this time. It gets cold here in MA during the winter for sure, but starting the motor with 15W-40 in 30* F hasn't given me any problems so far. I've read that the limit for 15W is much lower, at around 10*F or so.

I am a firm believer in hard breakin's now. I'm pretty confident that my easy break-in on my previous setup was somewhat related to my failures, but I obviously have no way to prove this.

The result is an absolute factory freak. The car made 353whp 407wtq @ 20psi on a stock VF43. The car pulls like a freight train and runs like butter.
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Old 03-16-2013, 06:37 PM   #80
Matty_STi
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Member#: 333602
Join Date: Sep 2012
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2012 STi
DGM

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how does something run like butter? butter has no legs.. if it ran like an ostrich or a cheetah I could see it...

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Old 03-20-2013, 02:05 PM   #81
Acejam2k
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Crystal Gray Metallic

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matty_STi View Post
how does something run like butter? butter has no legs.. if it ran like an ostrich or a cheetah I could see it...
Sorry, I meant to say "runs as smooth as butter". NASIOC is full of critics.
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Old 03-20-2013, 02:56 PM   #82
Matty_STi
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DGM

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acejam2k View Post

Sorry, I meant to say "runs as smooth as butter". NASIOC is full of critics.


Couldn't help myself. lol
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:48 PM   #83
microsnook
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2006 STi
SGM DOM 3xt-r

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I just read through all the pages on this thread. I'm having similar issues with my built engine. I wasn't so easy on the break in though, at least for the first 400 miles.
My oil is disappearing and I'm taking it to the shop who built it in a few days to have them help me figure out what is wrong.
No smoke, but had a loss of power under wot the other day. Really hope I don't have to pull my engine out for another rebuild....only 13k miles on it.

Anyway thanks for updating this thread for others like me who need this information!
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Old 04-14-2014, 11:07 PM   #84
niemkij
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: PA
Vehicle:
2006 Impreza Sti
Blue

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There is pressure on the thrust bearing only when pressing in the clutch pedal. Thrust bearing failure can be due to lack of initial assembly lube, inadequate oil flow to the bearing, or too thin of a journal on the block where the thrust bearing sits. I'm not sure if all engine builders check this last item, but they should. I'm not sure what else can cause a spun thrust bearing, but it will ruin the block and maybe the heads as bearing pieces travel through the block and heads.
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