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Old 11-13-2012, 02:22 PM   #1
MyWRXlove
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Unhappy I really need help....at wits end....

Howdy.

I have been having issues with my bugeye for a while now. The car feels down on power, idles rough, runs rich, like 150 miles to a tank rich, and has a tendency to stall when it’s cold.

It all started about 3 years ago when I had my motor rebuilt by a “reputable” shop. I gave them 9K for a brand new short block, rebuilt heads, a 3" exhaust and TuboSX up pipe. When I got the car back I noticed the idle was rougher than it had been before the engine seized. I was told that was just because the engine had to go through break in. I listened and went through break in just like I had been told to, however when I had finished the car was still running rough. Not as rough as today, but rougher than I was been used to.
For the break in they had given me a special map to run which would run the car rich, limit boost and set fuel cut at 4K rpm. After I switched from that to the COBB stage 2 93 octane map I started getting misfire codes. The reaction from them was that the car would need to be tuned. Unfortunately I had spent all my money having the engine rebuilt and couldn't afford one. They said that the car would run without too much trouble without a tune, but in order for it to run smoothly it would need a pro tune (these guys offer pro tunes BTW). Unfortunately I didn't have the time or money to do anything further. Now about 3 years later the car will barely run.

I have tried everything I can think of to solve the issue.... I did a leak down check, I replaced the fuel filter, injectors, MAF sensor, IACV, front 02 sensor, throttle body, and turbo (I replaced a few other things, but I can’t remember all of them). I have run sea foam; I have done oil changes and used a few different air filters. I took my car to several different shops and no one could tell me what the issue was. I finally took it to someone who looked like they know what they are doing and they did a compression check and said that cylinder 3 was lower than the rest and that I may have a burnt valve. He is asking for 1500 to rebuild the motor. **Side note, other shops has done electronic compression checks and said the compression was even across all cylinders**

I am now at a cross roads, I don't know if the car needs to be tuned or if I need another rebuild. After dealing with the "reputable" shop I have come to find that have a tendency to make mistakes and push the responsibility off on the customer. I am also getting competing opinions on whether the engine needs to be tuned or rebuilt. On one had the mechanic I trust is saying to rebuild, and another shop that I worked with that has made a winning reputation building Grand-Am spec M3's saying it sounds like a tuning issue. I really need a third opinion, a tie breaker if you will.

This is where you, the NASIOC public come in. Could you please help me and tell me what you think the issue is. Thank you.
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:34 PM   #2
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Do the compression test yourself and see what the results are. If one place is telling you the compression is fine and the other says low compression on cylinder 3, then something's up. Do the test, get results, and go from there.
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:49 PM   #3
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Where are you located?
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Old 11-13-2012, 05:00 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francois_
Do the compression test yourself and see what the results are. If one place is telling you the compression is fine and the other says low compression on cylinder 3, then something's up. Do the test, get results, and go from there.
I vote this. A compression tester can be had for ~$20
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Old 11-13-2012, 05:06 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post
Where are you located?
I'm in the Chicago Northwest Suburbs.
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Old 11-13-2012, 05:08 PM   #6
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I vote this. A compression tester can be had for ~$20
I'm not confident I can do it correctly.....At this point I don't want a learning experience, I want it done right.

I am starting to think that a third test will need to be the tie breaker...

Thanks.
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Old 11-13-2012, 05:16 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyWRXlove

I'm not confident I can do it correctly.....At this point I don't want a learning experience, I want it done right.

I am starting to think that a third test will need to be the tie breaker...

Thanks.
If that's the case, take it to a Subaru performance specialist. They're the ones that are going to help you the most.
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Old 11-13-2012, 05:30 PM   #8
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who the hell pays 9k for a rebuilt engine and a few parts. talk about getting hosed! go to subaru and say give this engine a compression test.
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Old 11-13-2012, 05:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
who the hell pays 9k for a rebuilt engine and a few parts. talk about getting hosed! go to subaru and say give this engine a compression test.
I wasn't paying just for the engine, I was paying a premium for a "reputable" shop to do it. I was paying for quality, and in that respect I got hosed.

I just need to find a shop who can do a leak down and compression test then. Any recommendations?
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Old 11-13-2012, 05:55 PM   #10
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PM sense of nature
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:39 PM   #11
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PM sense of nature
wut?....
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:25 PM   #12
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Agreed with said above, take it to a good Subaru dealer and tell them you want a test done. although they'll go off and question why you modded it in the first place.
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:39 AM   #13
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Agreed with said above, take it to a good Subaru dealer and tell them you want a test done. although they'll go off and question why you modded it in the first place.
Yeah, I will. I just need to figure out when I can do without my car.

I have also noticed that my car has been running smoother since the last mechanic un-married my Cobb from my car. Perhaps this is a tuning issue...
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:14 PM   #14
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I didnt read sparkplugs on the list. if you have been running rich for 3 years, I'm pretty sure your plugs arent in the best shape.

Do a compression test to make sure you are good all the way across. If you can change sparkplugs yourself, you can do a compression test. If you can't do sparkplugs yourself...take a weekend and try to do it.
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Old 11-17-2012, 11:31 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by jackuzi View Post
I didnt read sparkplugs on the list. if you have been running rich for 3 years, I'm pretty sure your plugs arent in the best shape.

Do a compression test to make sure you are good all the way across. If you can change sparkplugs yourself, you can do a compression test. If you can't do sparkplugs yourself...take a weekend and try to do it.

Iv done the plugs several times. Last time I changed the plugs however I found one of them was completely black.
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Old 11-17-2012, 05:32 PM   #16
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My friend has a bore scope and I'm going to use it to check the valves and cylinders. I will update once I get too it. Is it possible to replace a head without pulling the motor?
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:21 PM   #17
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Do a leak down test. It will tell you exactly what you wanna know
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:54 PM   #18
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My1c
Take the car to a Tuner that knows his stuff on tuning Subaru, have him do some data logging on the car,I am sure you will find some answers .
You payed 9G from a shop,do hope its a Subaru Specialist that's listed, not some one who did 1 or 2 engine rebuild and claim that they can do the job,this sound like a rip off.

Last edited by trinistyles; 11-19-2012 at 08:07 PM.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:24 PM   #19
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Quote:
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wut?....
he knows of the good shops in Chicago

I think it's 6 something
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