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Old 10-31-2012, 10:05 AM   #1
twinturbomeow
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Default 2.0 wrx oil pan diy tips?

Im going to attempt to swap out my oil pan this week.

Can not find a decent diy on a ej20, can someone help? I've had no luck using google.

Any tips for this job?
I've read alot about the motor needs to be pulled/lifted to remove oil pan, is this true for the 03 wrx?

How difficult & time consuming will this be?

Any tips for what gasket to use?
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:10 AM   #2
JMSok8
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I believe all you have to do is remove the swaybar to get to the front bolts that hold it up. Subaru oem gasket would be best imo.
Shouldnt take more than 2 hours if your on your back.
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:31 AM   #3
rdieder
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tip i learned from one of the local guys, if you have a heat gun, it helps soften the factory rtv so you can pry it with a paint scraper.
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:46 AM   #4
Serkan
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The hardest part is to get the 4 bolts between the crossmember and oil pump.
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:09 PM   #5
Bo0stin5STI
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I did it with the engine out of my car.

I would look around for a Factory Service Manual. That's what I consulted when I did mine. Also contains torque specs! Since you're tightening into aluminum, I wouldn't want to over torque!

Also, may I ask why are you swapping pans?

As far as gasket is concerned call your local dealer for that. I believe it is a special RTV (at least it is on my 05) that's not too expensive!

Probably take .5 to 1.0 hours taking your time and cleaning all of the surfaces (if you're mechanically inclined)

Good Luck!
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:22 PM   #6
nottofast
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ultra black rtv is good
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:27 PM   #7
04SUBIWRX
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It's not that bad. Un-bolt the lower motor mount bolt on each side jack up the motor/tranny and stick a 1" block of wood between the frame rail and the motor mount to keep it up. Make sure you use a 1/4 ratchet with a swivel on the socket end and a extension. That will make getting the back bolts alot easier. I found it easier once you get the bolts out of the oil pan and drop it a little take off the pickup tube. Everything will come out a lot easier.
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Old 10-31-2012, 05:47 PM   #8
emazz104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bo0stin5STI
I did it with the engine out of my car.

I would look around for a Factory Service Manual. That's what I consulted when I did mine. Also contains torque specs! Since you're tightening into aluminum, I wouldn't want to over torque!

Also, may I ask why are you swapping pans?

As far as gasket is concerned call your local dealer for that. I believe it is a special RTV (at least it is on my 05) that's not too expensive!

Probably take .5 to 1.0 hours taking your time and cleaning all of the surfaces (if you're mechanically inclined)

Good Luck!
Same here. There is no rubber gasket, if I remember correctly I just used Permatex's "The Right Stuff".
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:24 PM   #9
twinturbomeow
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man thanks for the advice guys, i've read alot on here and other sites. People mention that I need a special razor tool to remove the sealant? is this true?

I am replacing the pan because i stripped the hole for the plug on the current one... like an idoit lol

Still contemplating whether i should let a mechanic break his back over this or i should spend my sunday in the garage..
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Old 11-02-2012, 11:41 PM   #10
xsk7
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i switched mine out to install equal length headers. i did not have to raise the engine to do this. i used a 1/4" ratchet, 1/4" extension, 1/4" swivel joint and 1/4" inch socket (think it was like 10mm) to get to the rear bolts on the oil pan. the 2 middle ones are a PITA but it is possible to remove them.

once the pan is unbolted, hit it with a hammer or mallet to break the rtv seal. you will need to unbolt the pickup tube to get the oil pan off so have someone hold the pan while you unbolt the pickup tube.

clean the rtv left on the block. i used a knife to scrape it off. then put your rtv on your new oil pan, stick the pickup tube into the oil pan and have someone hold the pan while you bolt the pickup tube back on. raise pan into place and begin installing your bolts. do not tighten to spec yet, just enough to hold the pan in place. the rear bolts will test your patience . work quickly because if you squished rtv into the bolt hole and it dries.....you will not install that bolt and you will have a leak. i used a flashlight and an inspection mirror to see the bolt holes and have an idea of their location.

its late so i may have missed something, but this gives you an idea of the process. good luck
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:38 AM   #11
twinturbomeow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xsk7 View Post
i switched mine out to install equal length headers. i did not have to raise the engine to do this. i used a 1/4" ratchet, 1/4" extension, 1/4" swivel joint and 1/4" inch socket (think it was like 10mm) to get to the rear bolts on the oil pan. the 2 middle ones are a PITA but it is possible to remove them.

once the pan is unbolted, hit it with a hammer or mallet to break the rtv seal. you will need to unbolt the pickup tube to get the oil pan off so have someone hold the pan while you unbolt the pickup tube.

clean the rtv left on the block. i used a knife to scrape it off. then put your rtv on your new oil pan, stick the pickup tube into the oil pan and have someone hold the pan while you bolt the pickup tube back on. raise pan into place and begin installing your bolts. do not tighten to spec yet, just enough to hold the pan in place. the rear bolts will test your patience . work quickly because if you squished rtv into the bolt hole and it dries.....you will not install that bolt and you will have a leak. i used a flashlight and an inspection mirror to see the bolt holes and have an idea of their location.

its late so i may have missed something, but this gives you an idea of the process. good luck

thanks for the tips man i'll let you know how it goes if i have time on sunday.
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:45 AM   #12
WRXSteye20008
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:33 PM   #13
twinturbomeow
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xsk7 was right it worked, pan is finally loose and unattached. What do i do with the dipstick tube can it be completely pulled out from the oil pan?
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:37 PM   #14
sackytar
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yes it can
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:35 PM   #15
twinturbomeow
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how could i pull it out without damanging/breaking it, hard to get a grip
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:46 AM   #16
twinturbomeow
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so once again, the dipstick tube can be pulled out from the pan? Whats the best way to get a good grip on this?
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:59 AM   #17
twinturbomeow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xsk7 View Post
i switched mine out to install equal length headers. i did not have to raise the engine to do this. i used a 1/4" ratchet, 1/4" extension, 1/4" swivel joint and 1/4" inch socket (think it was like 10mm) to get to the rear bolts on the oil pan. the 2 middle ones are a PITA but it is possible to remove them.
For anyone looking to do this on a 2.0 model in the future, this guy was right. A small ratchet with extensions & and swivel joint did the job. Did not have to remove any mount etc. to remove the pan, just needed to unbolt the header for easer access. The rear bolts are a PITA, but can be done, its good to have new pan with you so you can see where they line up. Total job took me about 2 hrs 30 min. for a first timer. Im glad he posted, this is why i love nasioc!!!! thanks guys
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:05 PM   #18
xsk7
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sweet, i'm glad you got it done .
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:29 AM   #19
Ernest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinturbomeow View Post
man thanks for the advice guys, i've read alot on here and other sites. People mention that I need a special razor tool to remove the sealant? is this true?

I am replacing the pan because i stripped the hole for the plug on the current one... like an idoit lol

Still contemplating whether i should let a mechanic break his back over this or i should spend my sunday in the garage..
Get the whole tapped for a larger plug and use a larger plug. This is what I did on my old Ford Probe - it worked fine. Sure I was nervous it would not work and all the oil would come out, but it lasted years. Much easier than a new oil pan.
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