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Old 11-04-2012, 12:18 PM   #1
mj213
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2002 Forester
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Default Prescott Forester clutch replacement help ASAP - Will PAY!

I need to replace the clutch in my 2002 Forester. I don't have a lift of my own, nor do i have a garage to work in. The throwout bearing is making noise, previously the pilot bearing was acting up. Now the clutch seems to be slipping, and it doesn't always go into 4th without effort. I drive the car a lot for my job, and I need to get it done soon. I'm ordering a clutch (exedy), but I don't think I'm up for the job alone. I can pull the axles, power steering rack and exhaust with no problem. If anybody could help, or can do it I can pay money. Either PM or reply to this thread. I live over by Yavapai College.

Depending on the extraction method I may be replacing the timing belt (and accessories) along with the engine mounts.
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Old 11-05-2012, 12:29 PM   #2
USLiberty
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Sounds like a 2 day job to me, I would pull the motor for that. If it was just a clutch then just the trans could come out, but you will save time replacing the front parts by pulling it. I would do the timing belt kit, water pump, oil pump, cam seals, front/rear main seals, and a thermostat. Not cheap, i just replaced the front of my 20g and it was around 600$ for parts, i paid only 650 for my jdm motor. Wish I had a garage/driveway you could use but its not mine. If you do find a place to do it, ill come help out, but its gonna be a couple days to do all that. I would replace all rubber hosing(unless your under 80kmiles) while the motor is out because its easier than when its in the car.
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Old 11-05-2012, 12:58 PM   #3
mj213
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Hey thanks for replying. I have a driveway, it's just on a slope so it's not as easy (but more fun!) to work underneath the car. At this point I will probably just do the clutch kit and wrestle the remaining stuff after winter. As much as I would like to do a complete refresh on the engine, I don't think I could manage that financially. I ordered the clutch this morning, so it should be here later this week. It's an exedy KSB04.

The timing belt was replacing about 70k back so I should be alright for a while on that front. While I have the tranny out I'll be swapping out the ps rack since it's leaking as well.
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:53 PM   #4
USLiberty
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I have a slightly used (less than 3000 miles)left hand side sti motor mount ill sell for 20$, if your gonna replace those that could save you on one mount at least. I got it from a subaru dealership in costa mesa a few years back. You have a ps rack already? Let me know when ur gonna do it, I could possibly bring a floor jack, jackstands, breaker bar or any tools you might not have. Its definetly less work to drop the tranny for just a clutch job. Are you gonna have the flywheel resurfaced? Thats about 35$ locally. It wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the rear main seal while the clutch/flywheel is off, Cheap leak prevention, everytime I've put off replacing a seal/hose it ends up backfiring and I end up doing the job twice. Whatever can go wrong, will go wrong... story of my life. Did you get the whole exedy clutch kit(throwout/pilot bearing, alignment tool, pressure plate) or just the friction plate?
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:04 PM   #5
mj213
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I bought the kit that includes the friction plate, release/throwout bearing, pilot bearing and tool. Good thinking on the main seal.. I just got off the phone with tim's and I'll be picking that up along with the clips for the bearings in case they don't come with the kit.

I have 2 jack stands, a good floor jack and different sorts of breaker bars. I have plenty of tools so I should be good on that front. Will definitely let you know when the parts come in.
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Old 11-08-2012, 03:46 PM   #6
mj213
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In case anybody wouldn't mind lending a hand - I've got the exhaust, starter, and release cylinder out as well as the harness mostly disconnected and shields removed. Working on the driveshaft currently. I would imagine I only really need help with the actual removal of the transmission.
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Old 11-08-2012, 04:29 PM   #7
oneamuck
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when are you looking to do this? I can prolly spare a few hours this weekend.
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Old 11-08-2012, 06:51 PM   #8
mj213
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I was hoping to have it finished today but with the rain I had to put up a tarp so I could keep working. I just finished eating, so I have to get back out there.
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:15 PM   #9
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Hopefully you got the big METAL (newer style) piston pin access cover,
small O ring seal and not just the rear main seal.
Out of the hundreds of Scoobies that I've owned that leaked from the rear of the block,
95% of them were leaking from the big PLASTIC (old style) piston pin access cover. You should also replace small O ring seal also while you're in there.
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Old 11-10-2012, 03:00 AM   #10
oneamuck
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Mj, where are you at with this?
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:22 AM   #11
mj213
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Hey thanks for inquiring. I have the flywheel resurfaced and I'm cleaning up the mess from the ps rack leak. Beyond that, it's just putting things back together. I have everything I need as far as parts go. Have you ever done this kind of work?
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:32 PM   #12
mj213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JapCarRealGood View Post
Hopefully you got the big METAL (newer style) piston pin access cover,
small O ring seal and not just the rear main seal.
Out of the hundreds of Scoobies that I've owned that leaked from the rear of the block,
95% of them were leaking from the big PLASTIC (old style) piston pin access cover. You should also replace small O ring seal also while you're in there.

Just saw your post. As you can see in the pic below it's metal (yay!). Were you referring to the o-ring seal on the left in this picture?



Would high temp rtv silicone suffice in lieu of replacing seals? I have some and was advised at some point this would be ok, but I'm always open to second opinions. I'm cleaning all of the cv joint grease and ps fluid before reassembly.

Thanks for chiming in, I really appreciate it!
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Old 11-10-2012, 02:02 PM   #13
oneamuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mj213
Hey thanks for inquiring. I have the flywheel resurfaced and I'm cleaning up the mess from the ps rack leak. Beyond that, it's just putting things back together. I have everything I need as far as parts go. Have you ever done this kind of work?
Well, I'm no mechanic, but I swapped my 5 speed for a 6 in my garage. Plus, I stayed the night in a Holiday Inn Express. Also, I don't mind getting grubby or adding an extra pair of hands putting everything back together.
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Old 11-10-2012, 06:20 PM   #14
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OMGHi2U

Quote:
Originally Posted by mj213 View Post
Would high temp rtv silicone suffice in lieu of replacing seals? I have some and was advised at some point this would be ok, but I'm always open to second opinions. I'm cleaning all of the cv joint grease and ps fluid before reassembly.

Thanks for chiming in, I really appreciate it!
You're all good then, you're welcome, and carry on.
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:44 PM   #15
mj213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneamuck View Post
Well, I'm no mechanic, but I swapped my 5 speed for a 6 in my garage. Plus, I stayed the night in a Holiday Inn Express. Also, I don't mind getting grubby or adding an extra pair of hands putting everything back together.
I appreciate it! I'll be wrapping up tomorrow. I've got the transmission back in, despite the snow. I had to call it a night - still need to finish the driveshaft, passenger axle, ps rack, airbox, a few connectors and the exhaust. I'll need to bleed the clutch and power steering (I have a power bleeder and compressor).

I will PM my cell#.
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:13 PM   #16
mj213
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UPDATE:

The car was finished on monday. I hadn't had any issues until yesterday. The noise that seemed to be the pilot bearing has come back and gotten louder. I was backing out of a driveway when the car lurched to a stop (in reverse). It would only move a foot or two then stop like an AT dumped into park. Nothing seems to make a binding noise - the axles are all installed properly, no loose bolts and no fluid leaks. I was able to make the vehicle drive forward for some time.

After that, I noticed that the car seemed to have excess drag - as if there was something in the drivetrain resisting movement. I pulled over and noticed it moreso as the vehicle came to a stop. It was actually on an incline yet the vehicle was stuck as though the parking brake was on or it was off and in gear. When engaging any gear (except reverse) it was very difficult to get into gear - had to partially disengage the clutch and press on the accelerator pedal and I could again feel the resistance.

The noise seems to fade away (as the clutch assembly comes to a stop?) when in neutral or the car is turned off. I can only guess that something was either misaligned during the clutch install or a bolt broke, or came loose somehow. I am also curious if the shifter assembly wasn't installed properly, causing a misalignment in the shifter linkage, which is causing the gear engagement difficulties. It's strange as it shifts fine once the car is moving. I can even rev match without grinding (not that I do it normally).

I'll be jacking up the rear end and disconnecting the driveshaft to check for free movement to eliminate that portion of the drivetrain. Ive checked fluids - all OK. Any other help would be appreciated.
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:02 PM   #17
USLiberty
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Sounds like a misalignment but you said that the clutch pedal is smooth and disengages fine? If the clutch is missaligned its almost impossible to mate the eng/trans as the input shaft wouldn't be able to slide into the pilot bearing. How about the clutch fork pin? Is it in all the way? I know ppl that didn't get it in all the way and it came out and broke the sleeve for the pin. If your shift linkage is wrong it would definetly feel wrong and you would know. How was the condition of your old pressure plate?
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Old 11-15-2012, 02:57 PM   #18
mj213
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The fork seems to be fine - it will wiggle, just not much. We lubed the fork ends, and the clips holding the throwout bearing were installed correctly. The pressure plate had about 1/32" of material over the wear lines. It was contaminated from the leaking power steering rack (sucked up the breather tube I guess). The input shaft has minimal wear as well (from the worn out pilot bearing).

The shifter bushing is installed correctly (and lubed), the driveshaft is installed correctly (can it be installed incorrectly?) and the carrier bearing bracket is installed properly as well.

I wish I had an engine puller so I could support the weight of the transmission and get it out quicker. Looks like it's coming out today either way.
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:43 PM   #19
USLiberty
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Regarding the fork pin, it will apear to slide in all the way but if you rotate it, it will slide another 1/4 inch or so when the pin is lined up correctly. Did you feel it go that extra bit? That locks the fork pin to keep it from rotating out. That and trying to install a clutch without the alignment tool are the only issues I've ever had with the clutch. both of those issues prevented me from driving it so you may have something else wrong.
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Old 11-15-2012, 05:47 PM   #20
mj213
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I wouldn't put it out of the realm of possibility. I don't actually recall removing the fork at all, though. Now if I can locate an engine puller.
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:34 PM   #21
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I have an extra picker if you're looking. Its a pretty decent one, only a couple years old. It is air/hydraulic. $100 if you're interested.
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:07 PM   #22
mj213
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Thanks - you're in Las Vegas? Damn, and I have a friend visiting there right now. I doubt I'd be able to get it myself, though.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:05 PM   #23
USLiberty
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Nevermind about the fork,it only pertains to the hydraulic pull type clutch.
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:52 PM   #24
mj213
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I'm going to tear it all back down tomorrow afternoon. If anybody wants to help by all means come on out.
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Old 11-17-2012, 01:06 PM   #25
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Had a change of plans, doing the work today. Actually pulled everything just need a hand getting the transmission out and back in. Anybody up for it?
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