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Old 11-20-2012, 07:39 AM   #51
stretchedk7
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Originally Posted by 05_wRex View Post
I have an aeromotive 340 lph pump and id1000s car has 272 cams and a pte 6266. Aem is seeing 106% "duty cycle" at 7200 rpm @25 psi on 93 octane. Thoughts? Am I really running out of injector? Stock fpr so 43.5 base. Car makes 450 whp at 25 psi. I am not sure if the pump is on stock wiring.
Yes you are. I have 2200's and a 340 last time I hit dyno and at 460 I ran out. Needed to rewire.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:42 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by dnorton View Post
So taking the ground wire that connects to the pump and tie that to the 8 awg coming from the battery and the chassis ground will not give it a ground loop ?
The relay only closes when the signal wire from voltage controller kicks on (when ignition is turned on). The ground for pumps is always there but does nothing until circuit is closed.

In the fuel thread ppl discuss how it's done alot. A few different ways to do it
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:44 AM   #53
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All of you on small pumps and 93 should rewire and use stock fp.

All of you on e85 need a big in tank and rewire.

Any if you wanting over 500 should just buy my new twin tank hanger and keep your duty uncle cycle and low and have plenty of fuel
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:10 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stretchedk7

Yes you are. I have 2200's and a 340 last time I hit dyno and at 460 I ran out. Needed to rewire.
How much headroom did you gain rewiring it? Did you bypass the stock relays so it ran at 100% all the time?
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:29 AM   #55
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I'm on a aem which runs 100% duty all the time. You should gain some decent fuel by rewireing.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:51 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stretchedk7
I'm on a aem which runs 100% duty all the time. You should gain some decent fuel by rewireing.
Really? To the pump? Well then, no reason to keep the relays. I'm shooting for mid to upper 500s on race gas. 1000cc injectors going to be enough?
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:56 AM   #57
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Really? To the pump? Well then, no reason to keep the relays. I'm shooting for mid to upper 500s on race gas. 1000cc injectors going to be enough?
I think the 1000's will be enough but your going to need some fuel pump. And it should def be rewired.

What pump are you going to use?
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:56 AM   #58
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And yes aem runs 100% duty cycle to the pump always. No voltage regulation
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:03 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stretchedk7

I think the 1000's will be enough but your going to need some fuel pump. And it should def be rewired.

What pump are you going to use?
It has an aeromotive 340 lph pump already. Stock wiring according to ams
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:06 AM   #60
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You just need to rewire it and you should be good.
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:27 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by Bariga View Post
exactly, take an audio amp hook it up to 4 guage power and 20 gauge ground it will work as if it would of been on 20 gauge power wire. Would be nice if walbro had internal speed regulator just like fuellab
That is not entirely correct. Rewiring the pump to the battery will provide more terminal voltage at the pump itself. You will still have voltage drop on the negative side ground but that can be minimized by running as short of a ground as possible.

The stock wires are not current limited, they just exibit higher than normal voltage drops at higher current loads. By going to a bigger hot you get less voltage drop to the pump and in the end more pump output. Changing out the ground would help too but depending on the length of the ground not nearly as much as swapping the hot.
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:28 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by stretchedk7 View Post
And yes aem runs 100% duty cycle to the pump always. No voltage regulation
That is 100% correct.

I was help that guy with his tune yesterday, and I completly forgot about a fuel pump rewire kit. I am going to add that to my AEM EMS how to guide .
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:57 AM   #63
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^ youve helped me before as well. e85 cold start stuff
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:58 AM   #64
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That is not entirely correct. Rewiring the pump to the battery will provide more terminal voltage at the pump itself. You will still have voltage drop on the negative side ground but that can be minimized by running as short of a ground as possible.

The stock wires are not current limited, they just exibit higher than normal voltage drops at higher current loads. By going to a bigger hot you get less voltage drop to the pump and in the end more pump output. Changing out the ground would help too but depending on the length of the ground not nearly as much as swapping the hot.

no matter what the bigger power wire will help but point being a big daddy short ground is needed to get full effect.
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:24 PM   #65
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anyways i rewired it before and saw no change in duty cycle or AFR that's why i stand by my word
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:30 PM   #66
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agreed. ^
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:46 PM   #67
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anyways i rewired it before and saw no change in duty cycle or AFR that's why i stand by my word
So I will not see any benefit?
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:55 PM   #68
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hes saying u just need to completey re wire. all the way to the pump. the best way is really 100% power all the time and bypassing voltage regulation imo.
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:01 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by stretchedk7
hes saying u just need to completey re wire. all the way to the pump. the best way is really 100% power all the time and bypassing voltage regulation imo.
OK, just making sure it was that. Lol. Thanks!
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:03 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by BoostLeak View Post
wow, whoever told you this IS VERY WRONG, the more voltage the more its going to flow!

DW sells a hardwire kit and it works flawlessly
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Originally Posted by stretchedk7 View Post
hes saying u just need to completey re wire. all the way to the pump. the best way is really 100% power all the time and bypassing voltage regulation imo.
yeah either rewire everything or don't **** with it
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:25 PM   #71
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OK, just making sure it was that. Lol. Thanks!


no problem
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:26 PM   #72
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problem is most ppl just dont do it right. they dont want to pull fuel tank assembly and rewire all that as well. its not that hard but it def makes a huge difference.
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Old 11-20-2012, 03:37 PM   #73
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What are you guys using in the top of the fuel tank assembly to let the bigger wires pass through and not let fuel escape? Or are you using the oem connector, which I would think would defeat the purpose of rewiring.
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Old 11-20-2012, 04:32 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by bswilmington
What are you guys using in the top of the fuel tank assembly to let the bigger wires pass through and not let fuel escape? Or are you using the oem connector, which I would think would defeat the purpose of rewiring.
I just de-pin a harness, solder and re wire and plug in the the existing connector, the connector itself is blade style so I don't think it really matters.

You could use GASOLINE safe JB weld, will not work with ethanol though.

If you go that route, just drill out a small hole run your wires and seal it, epoxy may work also. Have to check the labels.
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Old 11-20-2012, 04:39 PM   #75
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So now I'm getting more confused trying to figure out the proper way to upgrade my wiring to the fuel pump. is there a Fuel Pump Controller on the 2007 that has to be thought of ? My first thinking was I'd supply a bigger wire for the (+) and (-) with the trigger wire to energize the relay but from reading the post I'm getting confused.

If anyone can simplify the How Too would be great, thanks.
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