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Old 01-01-2013, 07:15 PM   #201
f0rz4m0t0rsp0rtf4n
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lymphomaniac View Post
Two things that the display console (for the 2013's) needs is an analog temperature display and an analog fuel guage. Having the "cold engine" / "overheating engine" / "you're engine is so hot it's burning a ****ing hole in your wallet" indicators are not enough. Having pixelated boxes representing amount of fuel is unnerving, because there's no way to know if it's a true representation of the amount of fuel left (and relative to what?). I'd rather see a needle indicate where the system's temperature is at (in a relative sense) and another needle identify how much fuel is in my tank. [/rant]

Back to the OP's question: I don't idle it for that long unless I'm waiting for someone: either I'm waiting for someone to get to my car, or someone to get out of my way (I live in an apartment building where everyone has a common parking area). Under normal circumstances, usually I will idle for no more than 20 seconds, and then go easy on the engine until the blue dummy light turns off. I just completed the specified break-in period, but I'm trying not to go over 4k rpm until I reach about 5000km on my odometer.
got 2013 as well. wish there is a temp gauge indicator.
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:22 PM   #202
madkayaker
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Block heater FTW, and I live in GA where it only snows once every couple of years. I set a timer the night before so it comes on just long enough in advance for it to be warm. Instant warm air from the vents, and the oil temp gauge is starting to climb by the time I get out of the driveway. I hate hearing piston slap.
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:23 PM   #203
Commander Keen
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I use the block heater whenever possible, year round. In any case, the car is moving within 30 seconds.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:08 PM   #204
Jeverill
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5 - 10 minutes
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:14 PM   #205
bottles
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5 min or so
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:49 PM   #206
PleiadesSTi
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3hrs with a brick on the accelerator pedal. Nothing like the sound of a subie engine bouncing off it's rev limiter for hours on end.
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:32 PM   #207
skyrocket101
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I am warming up all of my subies until the arrow reaches the first mark. My 2003 Forester got 220K miles without any issues until I sold it last summer.
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:15 PM   #208
WRXSteye20008
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With new pistons in the car and it being winter time I let it warm up to the second mark which is about 10 minutes.
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:43 PM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PleiadesSTi View Post
3hrs with a brick on the accelerator pedal. Nothing like the sound of a subie engine bouncing off it's rev limiter for hours on end.
Hahaha especially bright and early
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Old 01-03-2013, 06:40 PM   #210
Horuku
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I wait for it to hit 1500 rpm before taking off, idk why I do it though ;P . Then I keep her under 3k until warmed up.
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:14 AM   #211
albanhaj
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Once my car is heated inside and is nice and warm
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:56 AM   #212
MrFine67
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Good 5 minutes, then keep under 3k rpm for a few miles
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:58 AM   #213
silverboost0303
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I remote start it for about 5, then take off keeping the rpm's down as others have stated.
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:33 AM   #214
tomacGTi
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Long enough for the piston slap and TO bearing squeak to go away. Then drive off like a sane human being.

Been in the low 20's in PA lately.
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:39 AM   #215
ManualOverAuto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomacGTi View Post
Long enough for the piston slap to go away, Then drive off like a sane human being.

Been in the low 20's in PA lately.
My exact life.

I have a bad TOB too, lol.

To keep with the thread, I just bought a magnetic plug-in heater yesterday. For now I'm using it on the oil pan, just to see how it helps with cold-start cranking. It will also be able to stick to the block and act as a block heater if I want.

I used it on the oil pan this morning but I don't think I let it go long enough. Guess it needs over an hour.
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:40 AM   #216
Ryuduo
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None. I just start my car and drive away at low RPMS (1-2.5k) until temp gauge is normal. THEN DRIVE IT LIKE I STOLE IT.
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:42 AM   #217
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomacGTi
Long enough for the piston slap and TO bearing squeak to go away. Then drive off like a sane human being.

Been in the low 20's in PA lately.
Haha exactly.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:36 AM   #218
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Usually 5 min but lately its been 10-15 min because its been in the single digits
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:19 AM   #219
Anubis80
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I am sure this has been covered in the thread, but based on some reading I did years ago one of the worst things you can do to a car is a cold start with long idle.

Example 1- let the car idle until its in normal op temp. Not a good idea.

Example 2- start car cold and move it and then shut off. Also read that is horrible to do. For example back out of garage to wash car.

The best thing you can do is start the car let it idle for 30-60 secs and then drive. The car is MUCH more efficient at warming up while driving vs sitting. Dont rev it up high of course but keep rpms low until operating temp is reached.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:23 AM   #220
luan87us
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Less than a minute since I park in a closed garage.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:24 AM   #221
ManualOverAuto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anubis80 View Post
I am sure this has been covered in the thread, but based on some reading I did years ago one of the worst things you can do to a car is a cold start with long idle.

Example 1- let the car idle until its in normal op temp. Not a good idea.

Example 2- start car cold and move it and then shut off. Also read that is horrible to do. For example back out of garage to wash car.

The best thing you can do is start the car let it idle for 30-60 secs and then drive. The car is MUCH more efficient at warming up while driving vs sitting. Dont rev it up high of course but keep rpms low until operating temp is reached.
Unless you have piston slap......that **** changes everything.
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:44 PM   #222
ManualOverAuto
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Kind of a follow up from my last comment:

Got to take advantage of my magnetic heater finally. Guess it takes atleast 2 hours to make a difference in heating the oil in the pan.

Starting a car from a completely cold start with warm oil is awesome. To my surprise, the car took about half as long to warm up as usual.

I bought the magnetic heater just for cold-starts this winter, to help with the thicker, cold oil. Turns out it could help with the piston slap as well. The quicker my pistons heat up and expand the better. This also means less time and gas spent letting my car idle to warm up.
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:47 PM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManualOverAuto View Post
Unless you have piston slap......that **** changes everything.
Why does piston slap change everything?
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:55 PM   #224
ManualOverAuto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tibug View Post

Why does piston slap change everything?
The 'wear' on your engine from driving while your pistons are slappin' away (still cold), out weights the 'wear' from letting your car idle too long to warm up.

Atleast for me. That's how I look at it.

Although, I'm sure some will disagree.

Last edited by ManualOverAuto; 01-06-2013 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 01-06-2013, 06:07 PM   #225
tibug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManualOverAuto View Post
The 'wear' on your engine from driving while your pistons are slappin' away (still cold), out weights the 'wear' from letting your car idle too long to warm up.

Atleast for me. That's how I look at it.
Sounds fishy to me. I've never heard that Subaru piston slap was anything other than an annoyance with very minor effects on longevity. However, there is plenty of evidence that prolonged cold idle periods are quite bad for the vehicle.
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