Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Friday August 1, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Service & Maintenance

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-05-2012, 05:46 PM   #1
VTSubieRS
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 90608
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Vermont & St. Simons Georgia
Vehicle:
2005 STI, '08 3.0R
05 2.5RS, 92 Legacy L

Default Any tips, and info on maintenance- Oil seal, Throwout bearing, Transmission etc

Hey everyone,
Any and all tips, small or large, are appreciated. From a small part to order, to a trick from BTDT. Any tools that i will need specifically?

First off, I have a 2005 STi. Basic info, Built short block, aps fmic, walbro 255, still on vf39, stock injectors, invidia dp, invidia cbe, k&n typhoon, competition clutch stg4 6 puck, fidanza flywheel....

Previous owner for some reason used factory throwout bearing with the competition clutch, and that thing is real noisy now, needs to be replaced. the biggest issue is oil leak, dripping onto the exhaust, makes a smoky drive. It's either rear main seal or the oil seperator plate next to it, so i figured I'd replace both both.

I have talked to a friend with a shop, lift and tranny jack. We are going to go the tranny route instead of pulling the motor. I've heard this job is doable either way, but we have a game plan with pulling the trans so thats how its going to be done this time. we are both mechanically competant, i've just never done any larger scale projects like this. My friend has done a couple clutches on 5 spd wrxs and some other under car projects on his, (clunk killer kit, bushings etc)

Here's what I have purchased:
Throwout bearing kit, including bearing, pilot bearing, clutch alignment tool.
OEM Rear main seal, lithium grease to install
Oil seperator plate, and new hardware, permatex ultra grey to install
5 qts Extra-S transmission fluid, t-70 torx bit to drain.
1 liter OEM LSD rear differential fluid, to fluid change the rear diff.
5 qts Oil and Filter.
group N Transmission mount
Turn In concepts transmission crossmember bushings
Perrin Shifter Bushings
hand siphon pump to fill rear diff fluid
long transmission fluid funnel to fill transmission


I've been told that the spring pins should be replaced for the separation and reinstallation of the axles to the transmission lots of other threads said they re-used.
Also read that both the drain bolts for the trans fluid have washers that should be replaced, also lots of threads saying people reused. Oil pan side tightened to 52.6 ft/lbs, clutch housing side 32.5 ft/lbs. rear diff fluid plug to 36.2 ft/lbs.

came across something about a crankshaft stopper tool? rear diff plug removal tool? (you can use 1/2" ratchet right?)

Some info i gathered from another thread:
1) Ground clearance: You will probably want the car as high off the ground as possible (at least 24-30" from floor to chassis) to make clearance for the transmission to come down and back a ways.
2) Transmission weight: The STI transmission clocks in just under 200lbs by itself dry. Might not be a problem for you, but my tranny outweighs me by at least 40 lbs (hence my purchase of a transmission jack)
3) Fluid: If you want to make less of a mess, drain the transmission beforehand.
4) Clutch fork pin: Don't forget to pull the pin from the clutch fork before separating the transmission from the engine. Make your life easier. (Tip taught to me from idget: once you get the pin's cover off of the transmission, you will need a threaded bolt to pull the pin. Use your battery tie-down J-Rod, it's a perfect thread pitch and is plenty long enough for you to get a good grab on it)
5) Fill fluids when car is on level surface to ensure correct amounts.

With the rear main seal, you don't want to push it all the way in until it stops, have it flush or as close to flush with the block as possible. Tips for pulling old seal out? I saw a thread to drill a screw into the seal and use back of hammer or prybar and pull it out? tips for installing new one? Piece of pvc same diameter and press in with that to make sure it goes in evenly?

with the oil seperator plate, you want to clean both mating surfaces as best as possible, have them completely dry, and apply a thin 1/8" bead of sealant around it and allow proper curing.



please let me know if i am overlooking anything.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

Last edited by VTSubieRS; 11-17-2012 at 09:29 AM.
VTSubieRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2012, 06:49 PM   #2
fastnoypi
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 6886
Join Date: May 2001
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Vehicle:
MY01 EJ207 HTA35r
nothing to see, i'm stock

Default

sounds like you did your hw.
for a crankshaft stopper you can either have someone hold the crankpulley with a breaker bar/socket while you pull the flywheel off or just jam a big flat head on the edge of the block and flywheel to keep it from spinning.
Spring pins can be reused as long as you didnt bend them, washers on the trans drainbolts can be reused, just clean the surfaces well and torque to spec.
I found a hand siphon pump to be awkward but, i'm sure it would be fine if you have a lift and another hand. when i refilled my rear diff i dumped my landlady's handsoap pump and filled it with diff fluid...worked perfect
fastnoypi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2012, 07:35 PM   #3
Aaron'z 2.5RS
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 1026
Join Date: Mar 2000
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Hickigan
Vehicle:
'00 RS/WRX Stg5
'98 RS Stock

Default

Use a double box end wrench to hold the FW..

The front axles go on the stubs ONE WAY, of the roll pins dont want to go past about 1/4" you NEED to remove the axle from the stub and rotate it 180* and put it back, the hole is drilled slightly off center, trust me here...(does the 05 STi have male stubs or female reciver?)

Rear diff plug will likely require a breaker bar and a floor jack to pop it the first time.. did for both of mine...lol

Support the front of the motor, you'll be pulling the dogbone and the trans, the engine will want to tip forward, watch that Rad... You'll also want to lift the front of the motor on install, will help getting the trans in...

Have someone on the crank bolt with a breaker and socket when tje trans goes it to get the splines lined up.. should slip right in whe its right...

Trans and motor have dowel pins holding them together, wedge in a puddy knife, then 2 screwdrivers, then another screwdriver and you'll pop it in no time...

Last edited by Aaron'z 2.5RS; 11-05-2012 at 07:45 PM.
Aaron'z 2.5RS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2012, 08:25 PM   #4
VTSubieRS
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 90608
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Vermont & St. Simons Georgia
Vehicle:
2005 STI, '08 3.0R
05 2.5RS, 92 Legacy L

Default

Thanks for the tips aaron. I forgot to put that in my original post, pitch stop out, put something there to stop the engine from tipping forward. let me know if you think if anything else. I'm just trying to cover all my bases, so I dont have to find out I forgot something halfway through the job.

Last edited by VTSubieRS; 11-06-2012 at 10:09 AM.
VTSubieRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2012, 10:51 AM   #5
VTSubieRS
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 90608
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Vermont & St. Simons Georgia
Vehicle:
2005 STI, '08 3.0R
05 2.5RS, 92 Legacy L

Default

As far as the seal goes, every thread and picture i've come across says to have it flush with the block. I've seen some that are a hair in, and some that are a hair out. i just dont want to have to do it again, at least for awhile. I think as long as I'm close to flush (not pressing it all the way in which I've seen a lot of people do) I will be alright.

Came across this removal technique:

Use 1 to 3 drywall screws and drive them into seal with a drill about 1/2" or so

Using a prybar (could probably use a claw hammer as well), pry up on the screws. Sometimes the whole seal will pop out with 1 screw, if not, pry on all screws a bit at a time.

Clean crank surface and inside of sealed area with a shop towel

Fill inner groove of new rear main seal with a lithium grease / assembly lube

Hold seal against crank and keep it aligned with your hand while driving it in with a plastic-tip hammer. As soon as it starts to go on a bit, tap the opposite sides in a criss-cross pattern to keep it going on evenly. Drive the seal to where it is even with the block surface.










I don't think I will do the hammer technique as it seems like you risk not installing the seal evenly, i will get a piece of PVC piping the same diameter and press in evenly. but it looks liike a good technique for removal.



found a random pic of pushed all the way in. this is what not to do:


most of the images i've come across of untouched, factory installed ones before installing a new one show this depth: (a hair out of the block)

Last edited by VTSubieRS; 11-06-2012 at 10:59 AM.
VTSubieRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2012, 01:45 PM   #6
X Mon
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 156443
Join Date: Aug 2007
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: South East Penna.
Vehicle:
2006 WRX Wagon WRB
2001 Forester S, EJ205/5m

Default

PVC is a good idea for the Rear Main Seal. I like them flush or a hair under. Watch the inner lip on the crank as you seat it. For removal, a seal puller or a small flat blade driven into the side of the seal works well also. I use oil not grease to reseat.

Use a piece of wood on the bottom of the oil pump to control the pitch of the motor.

The clutch slave is easier to take off AFTER you pull the starter out. Remember that order when you reassemble, or do the starter twice (like I do).

Instead of a putty knife, I use a painters tool. It's a little thicker and has a tapered end.

Matco sells a drift pin punch that makes life easy: http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/pr...-REMOVAL-TOOL/
X Mon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2012, 07:08 PM   #7
VTSubieRS
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 90608
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Vermont & St. Simons Georgia
Vehicle:
2005 STI, '08 3.0R
05 2.5RS, 92 Legacy L

Default

thanks for the link, I'll have to go ahead and order that tool.

found this youtube video on releaseing the clutch fork too

There's a hex plug that you have to remove. Once the hex plug is out, thread that battery tie-down rod in and yank and a steel tube will come out. Then release the clutch fork like this:

VTSubieRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2012, 06:56 AM   #8
VTSubieRS
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 90608
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Vermont & St. Simons Georgia
Vehicle:
2005 STI, '08 3.0R
05 2.5RS, 92 Legacy L

Default

couple other tips from a 6spd removal thread I had started awhile back:

FRONT END - 2x4 spanning strut towers, remove pitch stop bracket, tie strap from 2x4 to bolt hole for that bracket.


BACK END - remove cross members, floor jack under the trans mount.


Plus you will want the engine tilted backwards with gives you some downwards angle. Once you remove the trans the engine will want to flop forwards.
VTSubieRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2012, 12:16 PM   #9
VTSubieRS
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 90608
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Vermont & St. Simons Georgia
Vehicle:
2005 STI, '08 3.0R
05 2.5RS, 92 Legacy L

Default

Going to be doing the work this weekend... I think I have everything I need. Please let me know if I am missing anything, any specific tools or parts i overlooked.

Here is what I have:

Oil & Filter
Trans Fluid, T70 Torx bit for plug removal
Rear Diff Fluid
Group N Trans Mount
TiC Trans Crossmember Bushings
Perrin Shifter Bushings
Fluid pump to fill rear diff
Long funnel to fill trans fluid
Axle Pin removal tool (Going to re-use pins)
Rear main seal
Oil Seperator Plate & Hardware, Permatex Grey for gasket.
Throwout Bearing kit (TO Bearing, Pilot bearing, Clutch alignment tool)

the garage i'll be using has a lift, and a trans jack.

Last edited by VTSubieRS; 11-13-2012 at 04:13 PM.
VTSubieRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2012, 03:22 PM   #10
VTSubieRS
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 90608
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Vermont & St. Simons Georgia
Vehicle:
2005 STI, '08 3.0R
05 2.5RS, 92 Legacy L

Default

Tomorrow is the day! Wish me luck!

VTSubieRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2012, 05:19 PM   #11
VTSubieRS
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 90608
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Vermont & St. Simons Georgia
Vehicle:
2005 STI, '08 3.0R
05 2.5RS, 92 Legacy L

Default

when I install the rear main seal, do i grease/oil the inside lip or the outside lip of the seal? or both?


Last edited by VTSubieRS; 11-16-2012 at 05:28 PM.
VTSubieRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2012, 05:49 AM   #12
Aaron'z 2.5RS
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 1026
Join Date: Mar 2000
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Hickigan
Vehicle:
'00 RS/WRX Stg5
'98 RS Stock

Default

A little oil is all it needs, it comes out clean.. or mine did, looked like the new one..
Aaron'z 2.5RS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2012, 08:29 AM   #13
VTSubieRS
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 90608
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Vermont & St. Simons Georgia
Vehicle:
2005 STI, '08 3.0R
05 2.5RS, 92 Legacy L

Default

do i oil the inside or outside lip, or both when i install?
VTSubieRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2012, 07:12 PM   #14
VTSubieRS
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 90608
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Vermont & St. Simons Georgia
Vehicle:
2005 STI, '08 3.0R
05 2.5RS, 92 Legacy L

Default

didnt make nearly as much progress as we were hoping to today.
started by removing the fmic piping, disconnecting the battery.... got the subframe off, sway bar out, driveshaft out, exhaust and downpipe off. drained the fluids, took the wheels off and disconnected the lower bolts on the strut housings to drop the axles out, but the axles are too long, we couldnt get them out, and when we are within an inch of removing the from the trans, it looks like we're pulling at the seals so i didn't want to damage them. any tips on that?

we got the trans bolts loose, pitch stop disconnected, all plugs disconnected, shifter fork disconnected, started removing the shift linkage, got the bolt out that goes through the bushings, but the arm above it had a bolt going through it that wont come out because its too long and hits the underbody. any tips on that? i was thinking it would come out once we drop the trans down a little, but it can't move much because of the arm still being attached to the shifter above. most of the steps I've read, just say, remove the shifter linkage, then goes to the next step. but doesn'y say its going to cause problems during linkage removal.

please help me out. thanks

Last edited by VTSubieRS; 11-17-2012 at 07:39 PM.
VTSubieRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2012, 08:56 AM   #15
Aaron'z 2.5RS
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 1026
Join Date: Mar 2000
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Hickigan
Vehicle:
'00 RS/WRX Stg5
'98 RS Stock

Default

Pop the lower ball joints in the front to get the axles (losen nut and whack the crap out of the LCA over the BJ, while putting downward pressure with a pry) out OR once the trans is unbolted, you can move it around enough to get one side at a time on the inners, it's just more of a pain to do that to get it BACK in ...

AFA the shifter, pull all the screws from the top boot, pull the rear shifter mount and take it all out with the car...
Aaron'z 2.5RS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2012, 06:34 PM   #16
VTSubieRS
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 90608
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Vermont & St. Simons Georgia
Vehicle:
2005 STI, '08 3.0R
05 2.5RS, 92 Legacy L

Default

Aaron, again thanks for the tips. i got the trans out today.. that 6 speed is rediculously heavy but it came out smoothly. we were stupid and took the lower strut bolts out yesterday and the axles wouldnt come all the way out. put those back in today, popped the ball joints out and was able to get the axles out. did damage the axles seal yesterday messing around with them so I have to order a new axle seal...

good news for today, got the motor mounts in, trans mount in, trans crossmember bushings in, shifter bushings in, rear main seal wasn't leaking! I was told if its not leaking don't mess with it. there was oil on the oil seperator plate, which was metal but the aluminum one, not the new styled steel one. replaced that with new hardware, grey rtv for gasket.... thought maybe the oil leak after all this was the oil pan gasket, so we pulled that off, cleaned it up, laid down a nice bead of rtv and re-did the oil pan gasket.

for the bad news... pulled off the throwout bearing and clutch disk... clutch is shot!
bad thing with these 6 pucks, they grab so hard that even though it was down to the rivets, i was launching the car last week and it was still grabbing and pulling fine through all the gears.

anyways, going to order a new clutch kit tomorrow, get the flywheel resurfaced, and egt all that put back together. once thats in, we can put the trans back up and get everything re-assembled. I'll keep everyone posted.
VTSubieRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2012, 12:40 PM   #17
VTSubieRS
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 90608
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Vermont & St. Simons Georgia
Vehicle:
2005 STI, '08 3.0R
05 2.5RS, 92 Legacy L

Default

got some new axle seals and exhaust gaskets on the way. ordered a new clutch.

i wanted a clutch that was a little more geared for performance over stock without going too aggressive. I was running a stage4 competition clutch 6 puck before, it chattered a lot and was a little too aggressive as this is my daily driver. My price range was on the lower side, as i already dropped a lot into doing this work. ACT stuff is nice but was a little out of my range, and the bottom line exedy stuff was basically stock specs.

i ended up going with a competition clutch stage 2 full face carbon kevlar. it was in my price range and is a step up from oem specs. hopefully the full face will last a little longer, and not chatter as much as the 6 puck.

just need to install clutch, get my flywheel back from the machine shop, install axle seals, and then its re-assembly time.
VTSubieRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:41 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.