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Old 03-04-2012, 07:31 PM   #1
lowranger
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Default burning oil somewhere

03 hybrid swapped 20k ago. Forged pistons
Sti up, full exhaust
Large tmic
Replaced turbo with non blown with approximately 40k miles. Stock

I'm away from my shop so this is my first option. Every once in a while I see lots of white smoke out the tail pipe. It's only upon start up that I notice it. I've been having this problem since the swap and afraid its the motor and not turbo.
The car still performs. But burns around two quarts between changes.
Is it most likely the motor (just weighing my options) or could it be turbo issue as well?
Is it safe to drive with correct amount of oil?


Anything else I miss?
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:27 PM   #2
07pearlwht
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Sounds like a ring land. Are you able to do a compression or leakdown test? Those will tell you a lot.

Check your downpipe and intercooler for oil. If there is oil in the downpipe it points towards the turbo. Or a really bad ring land.

Bottom line is you need to do those tests.
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:34 PM   #3
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compression check
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:13 AM   #4
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If you see white smoke, it's antifreeze burning. Blue smoke would be oil. (stating the obvious). If you're burning oil a compression & leak down test will tell you if you have a cylinder / bottom end issue. If you're burning coolant, pop the cap off the coolant tank on top of the intake manifold. Then start your car and hold it at a steady rpm with your hand (at the throttle body) and look in the reservoir. If its bubbling steadily then you have a head gasket issue. There should be no bubbles.
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Old 03-05-2012, 11:19 AM   #5
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Before you start pulling parts off the car to look for oil in the inlet/intercooler/etc, let's ask what brand oil you are using?

Myself, I was losing oil mysteriously when I was using RP, spec weight, when I first got my car. Switched to Rotella, and no oil consumption at all.
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:10 PM   #6
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ive been using mobil 1 since the motor swap and have been good with changes (just stating). i started with rotella from 0 miles to 1000 miles then made the switch.

im not able to do compression or leak down where i am.
i need tools in general here. have everything (for the most part in Dallas)
i got my anti freeze leaks fixed so thats a load off. it could be blue, just cant tell through the windows as well, been trying to leave door open and see. but i figured its burning oil do to the loss of oil
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowranger View Post
ive been using mobil 1 since the motor swap and have been good with changes (just stating). i started with rotella from 0 miles to 1000 miles then made the switch.
you did it wrong, there...you got it backwards.....that is the problem
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Old 03-06-2012, 01:23 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowranger
ive been using mobil 1 since the motor swap and have been good with changes (just stating). i started with rotella from 0 miles to 1000 miles then made the switch.

im not able to do compression or leak down where i am.
i need tools in general here. have everything (for the most part in Dallas)
i got my anti freeze leaks fixed so thats a load off. it could be blue, just cant tell through the windows as well, been trying to leave door open and see. but i figured its burning oil do to the loss of oil
Why don't you try a different oil. Like Rotella T6 5W-40. Mobil 1 makes a lot of different oils; I hope you weren't using their 5W-30.
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:52 AM   #9
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Mobil 1, isn't that an oil with a rating for fuel economy (30W I think)? (Experts?) I've heard of people claim to "lose" oil when using Mobil 1 with turbo cars... or at least my decrepet memory seems to recall from threads years ago. I'd switch to T6 and see what happens to your oil consumption over at least 1 full oil change interval.
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Old 03-06-2012, 05:44 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scramjett
Mobil 1, isn't that an oil with a rating for fuel economy (30W I think)? (Experts?) I've heard of people claim to "lose" oil when using Mobil 1 with turbo cars... or at least my decrepet memory seems to recall from threads years ago. I'd switch to T6 and see what happens to your oil consumption over at least 1 full oil change interval.
Not all M1 products are energy conserving. They have SEVERAL different blends and weights. Go to www.mobiloil.com for more information.
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Old 03-06-2012, 05:48 PM   #11
lowranger
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I didn't do the motor swap and the old shop started off with rotella. I switched to synthetic after 1k. Mobil 1 is a darn tootin good synthetic. And I switched between 5w and 10w because I'm in Texas. Also that's what my new shop recommends. And its a reputable shop.
If ppl are having burning oil issues with m1, I might have to reconsider.
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Old 03-06-2012, 05:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowranger View Post
I didn't do the motor swap and the old shop started off with rotella. I switched to synthetic after 1k. Mobil 1 is a darn tootin good synthetic. And I switched between 5w and 10w because I'm in Texas. Also that's what my new shop recommends. And its a reputable shop.
If ppl are having burning oil issues with m1, I might have to reconsider.
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:13 PM   #13
lowranger
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No rolls eyes!
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Old 03-06-2012, 10:38 PM   #14
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Which alloy were you pistons? Those SUPER DUPER RACING 100000HP pistons are really hard on the cylinder walls and aren't meant to go so many thousand miles without a rebuild. Cold starts are MURDER on a car with those pistons because they shrink considerably when not at operating temperature.
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Old 03-07-2012, 02:21 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowranger
I didn't do the motor swap and the old shop started off with rotella. I switched to synthetic after 1k. Mobil 1 is a darn tootin good synthetic. And I switched between 5w and 10w because I'm in Texas. Also that's what my new shop recommends. And its a reputable shop.
If ppl are having burning oil issues with m1, I might have to reconsider.
Many threads on NASIOC have established that Subaru turbo engines consume M1 5W-30 at an atrocious rate; please do not use this oil. Try to switch to Rotella T6 to help reduce consumption; many have reported success by doing this.

There are only a couple good M1 oils that Subaru turbos like and I'll let Uncle Scotty inform you of which ones they are...
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Old 03-07-2012, 03:20 AM   #16
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Your headgastet has issues... replace it before you break something expensive.
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Old 03-07-2012, 08:13 AM   #17
1gnasty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowranger View Post
I didn't do the motor swap and the old shop started off with rotella. I switched to synthetic after 1k. Mobil 1 is a darn tootin good synthetic. And I switched between 5w and 10w because I'm in Texas. Also that's what my new shop recommends. And its a reputable shop.
If ppl are having burning oil issues with m1, I might have to reconsider.
rotella t6 is synthetic i just swich my forester and it did made some diference on the consumtion rate
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Old 03-07-2012, 04:07 PM   #18
lowranger
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I'm not against info! Thanks for the help. I just figured, if the high end cars run it, why not my pos. I will def stick with synthetic.
And I have cp forged pistons. Prrrooobbaabllyyy should have said that. If I haven't already. Stock size.
I have a feeling its head gaskets issues
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Old 03-07-2012, 04:13 PM   #19
lowranger
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Hope it isn't h.g. that's a few thousand down the drain.
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowranger
I didn't do the motor swap and the old shop started off with rotella. I switched to synthetic after 1k. Mobil 1 is a darn tootin good synthetic. And I switched between 5w and 10w because I'm in Texas. Also that's what my new shop recommends. And its a reputable shop.
If ppl are having burning oil issues with m1, I might have to reconsider.
You got a from Uncle Scotty because the 5W and the 10W are both 30 weights when warm. The cold start rating is close to pointless in TX since that is measured at -30C. Although you still have not stated if you used 5W-30 or 10W-30. I wouldn't run that in a stock WRX unless it was the High Mileage version.

With Mobil1 in TX, I would be looking into TDT 5W-40 or 10W-40 High Mileage.

-Dennis

Last edited by bluesubie; 03-07-2012 at 06:09 PM.
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Old 03-08-2012, 05:54 PM   #21
lowranger
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Well just went into the garage to check my stock and its all 10w-30 full synthetic
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:50 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHRDAN View Post
Your headgastet has issues... replace it before you break something expensive.
Explain this sir...... thats a blatant thing to throw out there with no explanation! What about piston ring positiong? OP says its a fresh rebuild, the ring positioning could be wrong and therefor getting blow by in the cylinder and causing his oil consumption. Or a stuck open PCV, if its all clogged up, on start up it may be stuck open until some pressure and heat builds. It my be freeing up a little bit after start up to not constantly smoke but enough to let more in than usual. The list as to why goes on and on but look into the PCV first since its simple and cheap. Report back your findings.

OP, if it was a HG it would be over heating, probably missfiring, and you wouldnt have gone this far without knowing it. That post was retarded.
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:55 AM   #23
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Uk-Wagon technically he said the rebuild was 20k miles ago. He never answered which alloy of pistons he used and I still say thats likely the issue.
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:25 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ciper View Post
Uk-Wagon technically he said the rebuild was 20k miles ago. He never answered which alloy of pistons he used and I still say thats likely the issue.
ah, yes didnt remember that. With 20k on it and its just now doing this there is something more to it. I wouldnt say its pistons and just go with it, there needs to be some investigation first. Check many other things before going there.
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Old 03-10-2012, 03:53 PM   #25
lowranger
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cp pistons = aluminum forged.
its kind of strange because i dont notice the plume of smoke every start up. every once in a whil. it has done this in the past but its rare, but still concerned since i am burning oil at a larger rate.
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