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Old 12-14-2012, 03:58 PM   #101
heavyD
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I'm going to assume 0W-30 German Castrol should be fine in these cars.
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Old 12-14-2012, 03:59 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXLTD View Post
Do you think I change my own oil solely because of the money savings?

Hell no...I do it because:

a) I enjoy working on my own car

b) I don't trust the people who do oil changes at the dealership/Jiffy Lube
No no no, again my point has been misunderstood, look at my post (#93), look at the comment I quoted and several other comments in this thread suggesting $70 is an absurd amount, my comments were directed towards that.......
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Old 12-14-2012, 04:10 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by J-hop View Post

No no no, again my point has been misunderstood, look at my post (#93), look at the comment I quoted and several other comments in this thread suggesting $70 is an absurd amount, my comments were directed towards that.......
I follow what you are saying and saying that $70 in the grand scheme of things isn't anything.

I think where my issue with the cost is, is that the materials cost of synthetic vs non syn isn't enough to justify the $40 difference most dealers and lube shops charge. It costs like $10 more for 5 quarts. It's not like its more labor, so how do they come up with $30 for non syn oil and $70 for syn?

That's my issue with the cost.
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Old 12-14-2012, 04:15 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heavyD View Post
I'm going to assume 0W-30 German Castrol should be fine in these cars.
Just understand that oil doesn't meet Subaru's oil requirements (5W-30 synthetic fill, no exceptions) and you could be jeopordizing motor warranty.
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Old 12-14-2012, 08:39 PM   #105
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Default 5w40?

The EPA 23 highway STi just scrapes by the 22.5 MPG gas guzzler tax. Using 5W40 could jeopardize the official MPG rating. Auto makers are not allowed to factory fill a 5W30 to meet an EPA rating and than recommend a heavier oil that would lower it.
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:36 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heavyD View Post
I'm going to assume 0W-30 German Castrol should be fine in these cars.
Flows better at start-up which means more lubrication which is a good thing and GC is more closer to a 40 weight. I use it all the time on my 09 wrx.
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:46 PM   #107
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Originally Posted by sc00by4life View Post
What?

4 quarts of royal purple is only $50, and an oem filter is $6.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXLTD View Post
When I change my oil myself, it costs me about $41.

5 quarts of Mobil 1 Extended 5w30 (bought on sale) and a Subaru oil filter (bought by the case on eBay)

There is no excuse to be putting this stuff in subarus any more.
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Old 12-15-2012, 09:37 AM   #108
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Originally Posted by ResidentR View Post

There is no excuse to be putting this stuff in subarus any more.
Although I agree with you when it comes to the Royal Piss (that thin **** used to make my lifters tick like hell on my mach 1)...

I'd like to hear about why you feel Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30 & a stock Subaru oil filter is bad for a daily driven only WRX/STI for oil changes done every 3000 miles.

Can't be warranty...so please tell.
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:07 AM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXLTD

Although I agree with you when it comes to the Royal Piss (that thin **** used to make my lifters tick like hell on my mach 1)...

I'd like to hear about why you feel Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30 & a stock Subaru oil filter is bad for a daily driven only WRX/STI for oil changes done every 3000 miles.

Can't be warranty...so please tell.
Because of two evil words. RESOURCE CONSERVING. M1 EP 5W-30 is probably one of the best RC oils out there, but there is little difference in thinness between RP 5W-30 or any Resource Conserving 30 weight.

Over at bobistheoilguy.com, there have been one or two brave souls that have run M1 5W-30 EP in a turbo Subaru with very good used oil analysis results, but there isn't any long term data on it. The High Temp High Shear on the oil is 3.0 and the minimum for an RC 5W-30 is 2.9. For comparison, all Euro ACEA A3 30 weight oils must have an HTHS of 3.5 or higher and cannot be Resource Conserving.

Even when my FXT was stock, I didn't run an RC oil. The new RC GF5 oils have definitely improved over the GF4 oils, but the GF5 oils aren't required to have any improvement in wear. http://www.gf-5.com/the_story/performance/

I'm not saying that you could have a problem with the oil but the above reasons are why people use a more robust oil. There are people that have used the regular Mobil1 5W-30 for hundreds of thousands of miles. When I emailed Mobil1 about the best oil for my application (all pre-2011 Subaru's specced 40 weights in severe conditions), they recommended 0W-40.

Here's one analysis:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2558443

And here's his next analysis on Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30 at 7,500 mile intervals:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...2726793&page=1

Note that 75% of his driving is highway which is the easiest on oil.

-Dennis

Last edited by bluesubie; 12-15-2012 at 01:01 PM.
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Old 12-15-2012, 03:21 PM   #110
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^ Thanks for the oil data Dennis, but I'm very confident (from the data I've seen) that running Mobil 1 EP 5w30 and changing it every 3000 miles is perfectly save in a daily driven WRX/STI...that together with the stock blue Subaru oil filter. It's not only safe, but cost effective (compared to some other oils & filters), and retains warranty.

Of course if I were to track my car in the future, I would use a more robust oil.
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Old 12-15-2012, 03:28 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ResidentR View Post
There is no excuse to be putting this stuff in subarus any more.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXLTD View Post
What a rip off for that thin a$$ oil.

I'd pay the $5 per quart for Mobil 1 Extended 5w30 (when it goes on sale) before I'd buy Royal Piss.
i was merely using royal purple as an example as it is quite expensive .
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:39 AM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXLTD
^ Thanks for the oil data Dennis, but I'm very confident (from the data I've seen) that running Mobil 1 EP 5w30 and changing it every 3000 miles is perfectly save in a daily driven WRX/STI...that together with the stock blue Subaru oil filter. It's not only safe, but cost effective (compared to some other oils & filters), and retains warranty.

Of course if I were to track my car in the future, I would use a more robust oil.
Spike it with a quart of Mobil1 0W-30 Racing oil.

-Dennis
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Old 12-16-2012, 10:54 PM   #113
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Originally Posted by bluesubie View Post

To those running Motul 5W-30, it is not API SN certified. IMO, this is a good thing but some people are afraid of not running SN oil. A dealer will not ask you if your oil is SN or not. Motul Eco-nergy is a thin 30 weight and is SL rated with a stronger anti-wear package. X-clean is a thick 30 weight that meets Euro ACEA A3 specs like GC. It also has a nice shot of zinc and meets API SM specs.

-Dennis
Decided to go with the Motul 8100 x-clean 5W-30 instead of the Sustina. Ordered and on its way.
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:00 AM   #114
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Ah, the great turbo Subaru oil debate continues. I would think by now that it would be common knowledge that resource conserving oil in these cars just don't work good.

To anyone coming here for info, just read bluesubie's comments and follow that. The man knows his oil.
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:28 AM   #115
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Originally Posted by GrumpyPitbull View Post
Ah, the great turbo Subaru oil debate continues. I would think by now that it would be common knowledge that resource conserving oil in these cars just don't work good.

To anyone coming here for info, just read bluesubie's comments and follow that. The man knows his oil.
Yes, in the back of my mind I knew this but I had to work this out on my own. I've been picking through the interweb and talking to a few people I trust trying to decide the best thing to do that would prolong the life of my engine and keep me away from 0,5W-40 oils that might cause me issues with SOA if something should go awry.
I think the 8100 is a good compromise between running an SN rated oil and using something along the lines of T6. I'll still send a sample to BS @ about 3750 miles to see how the viscosity and TBN are holding up and go from there.
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Old 12-17-2012, 01:09 PM   #116
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I haven't been here for a while, but wanted to say it's nice to see that the place hasn't changed much. Five page oil/warranty argument thread, to be repeated again soon I'm sure.
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Old 12-17-2012, 01:19 PM   #117
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Originally Posted by Seventh View Post
I haven't been here for a while, but wanted to say it's nice to see that the place hasn't changed much. Five page oil/warranty argument thread, to be repeated again soon I'm sure.
It's funny how around this time every year, the same questions are asked over and over again. I know alllll of this info has been said a million times before... Soon we'll see an abundance of "I put on a catless dp now my dash looks like a Xmas tree!!" threads. We'll all ask if it's tuned, they'll say no, then it's downhill from there.
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Old 12-17-2012, 02:34 PM   #118
Rowrx11
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royal purple high performance street 10w-40 2011wrx stage 2.

nice oil or not ? what oil do you recomend for my car ? i am from Chile.
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:33 PM   #119
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Originally Posted by Rowrx11 View Post
royal purple high performance street 10w-40 2011wrx stage 2.

nice oil or not ? what oil do you recomend for my car ? i am from Chile.
Yes! The HPS has old school (higher) levels of anti-wear additives like ZDDP. It also has the ester based additive synerlec.

-Dennis
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Old 01-07-2013, 12:33 PM   #120
Rowrx11
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royal purple hps 10w-40 or gt1 10w-60?

for my subiie ? 2011 wrx stage 2 ... i'm confused .. please help.

Last edited by Rowrx11; 01-08-2013 at 04:23 PM.
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Old 03-14-2013, 04:29 PM   #121
716-WRX
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Default Oil change 2013 wrx limited

I just hit the 1,000 mile mark today and did my first oil change. I bought the oil and filter from dealer To change oil you must drop the skid plate that covers bottom of engine. There are 3 -12mm bolts to remove (2 in front and 1 in rear) as well as removing 2 plastic push pins in wheel wells and 2 plastic clips at back of plate. Once these are removed , skid plate drops off and can be removed U then need a 17 mm wrench to remove drain plug and I used a pair of oil filter pliers to remove filter . There is a decent amount of room around oil filter to maneuver pliers. One caution , the crush ring on the oil drain bolt is difficult to see, since it is painted black and looks like part of bolt itself . I installed a fumoto valve for draining oil (3/4inch SAE)and kept the bolt and new crush ring as a spare in case I have issues with fumoto valve. After oil change , I test drove car and put it back up to check for oil drips or leaks and there were none so I reattached skid plate ( bolts first , then push pins , then clips ) and everything is fine. I appreciate all the info I have gotten from this site so I'm just trying to contribute as well.
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:28 PM   #122
SilverBOXER4
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I thought all new Subaru purchase was offer 2 yrs free oil change paid for by SOA. I picked up a '13 Legacy and that's what my dealer told me. Anyhow I'm glad to have the 2 yrs free oil change. Save me some money, lol.
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:38 PM   #123
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Originally Posted by Tenament View Post
IMO, I would never, ever let a dealer do any sort of work on your car (yes, even an oil change) unless you're next to one of the rare ones that don't catastrophically mess up people's cars.
That's my concern as well. The LAST thing I'd like to see is overfilled oil of a questionable origin, or busted clips/rounded out drain plugs/messy undercarriage/overtightened drain plugs/oil filters (What oil are they REALLY using?)
Not to mention the 'quick oil changes' many repair shops like to do, how much do they actually get out? Sorry but I do my absolute best to change ALL the oil in the car, not leave a quart of old to dilute with the new. I usually let my oil drain for 25+ minutes on any car I've ever had before refilling. Extreme? No. Necessary? Probably not. (Extreme is the guys who prime the engine after changing the oil to assure adequate oil pressure)

OCI's are ONLY conjecture without any empirical data backing them up. Use Blackstone to analyze the sample of oil you're running at a CONSERVATIVE interval first to set an oil type/interval. Only way to really be 100% about oil changes. Otherwise it's just guesswork. Can be wasteful if you're running intervals unnecessarily short, could hypothetically be harmful (long term) if you're running long intervals on less than sufficient oil.
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Old 03-15-2013, 02:38 AM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverBOXER4 View Post
I thought all new Subaru purchase was offer 2 yrs free oil change paid for by SOA. I picked up a '13 Legacy and that's what my dealer told me. Anyhow I'm glad to have the 2 yrs free oil change. Save me some money, lol.
Heck, I only got one free oil change, which was the first oil change only. Must just be certain dealers I guess. I didn't get it because it was quite a drive for me and I'm always working. I just managed to buy and OEM filter and used T6 oil.
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Old 04-24-2013, 02:22 PM   #125
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What is everyone's thoughts on BG products? I have a buddy I used to race bikes with who SWEARS by their products. I used the BG MOA in my old car with every oil change, as well as a 44k fuel treatment every year or so. He used the BG oil, the Hi-low 0w-30, and swore by it. I used to drive a Jeep Hemi so I never put it in as I was worried it'd mess with the mpd feature. From what he had mentioned, the oil was super refined and had great viscosity. Anyone have any experience with these products in a sub?
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