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Old 11-29-2012, 12:59 AM   #1
nycjon
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Default Need help on suspension setup!

Hello everyone! I have a 05 STi, currently about 62k miles on my car. I' m running jdm pink springs with stock struts(getting really tired of hearing that clunk noise in the rear.. must be the most annoying sound ever). but beside that the ride is okay.. Also have a cobb catback and everything else is stock!..

I'm pretty much a noob and still learning about my sti. previous car was a rsx-s.


Some info about myself to help you guys on answering my question.

1. Looking for a comfortable / ride able street setup mainly.
2. i live in NYC ( roads are terrible )
3. i drive my car every single day! not the typical i drive to work and come back home driving.
4. Im about style and suspension over power. ( i want at least a 2 finger gap.)
5. Love to sprint/take quick turns on corners etc.. i just really enjoy driving my Subaru and how it handles.
6. in between a year or two i want to get into some Autox maybe like twice a year if possible.
7. Want something to last as i plan on keeping this car for a while

Well in a couple of months i really want to change my whole suspension setup
my car is pretty much really rusty underneath since the previous owner took a trip to Canada from nyc. And he never really taken care of washing it underneath getting it detailed etc.. and car was kept outside of hes driveway for a year without driving so things are really rusty inside!

From looking around through forums here is a list i come up with and i want to know if im heading the right way to match my specific needs for my car. or if i can go a different way perhaps something less expensive. what do you guys think?
( money is a factor but cant really go cheap on a quality suspension setup )


1.( Need help on either coilover setup or Struts/springs combo ) my limit $2,000
2.Whiteline front and Rear Sway Bar 24mm Adjustable Or
3.Eibach sway bar front 25mm and rear 22mm which is a lot cheaper.
4.Kartboy front and rear endlinks
5.Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings -
6.Whiteline Front Roll Center Adjustment Kit

7.
Beatrush Super Light Subframe Subaru and the only capable with Beatrush ATL kit. so that as well. ( in the future though not anytime soon) This is the only subframe i have found that would replace my oem subframe.. cant seem to find any others online

Hopefully this can all make sense and you guys can understand what im trying to look for. if you have any questions just feel free to comment on anything.
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Last edited by nycjon; 07-10-2013 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:28 AM   #2
Uncle Scotty
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you are in bombed out road hell...that means you need to stay as high as possible and keep all the suspension travel you can
this is also no place to even think about coilovers...for LOTS of reasons...but even $$$$ ones wont last long with the bad roads and winter salt

get your struts rebuilt/revalved by FEAL
keep the springs...they are really pretty good rates for bad roads
get group n front strut tops!!!

do NOT get big swaybars as this will make the ride bad by limiting suspension independence, side to side......id keep the stock bars and upgrade the mount bushings and endlinks....too much swaybar is a mistake i see here over and over and over

forget the beatrush....get an Oswald subframe if you relly want one... and a whiteline 'comfort' alk will fit using the stock u brace or the oswald part...

and im not sure id use the whiteline roll center kit on bombed out roads....it may be a bad idea....and not really necessary if you dont lower the car
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:53 AM   #3
aboothman
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Agreed
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Old 11-29-2012, 05:23 PM   #4
nycjon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
you are in bombed out road hell...that means you need to stay as high as possible and keep all the suspension travel you can
this is also no place to even think about coilovers...for LOTS of reasons...but even $$$$ ones wont last long with the bad roads and winter salt

get your struts rebuilt/revalved by FEAL
keep the springs...they are really pretty good rates for bad roads
get group n front strut tops!!!

do NOT get big swaybars as this will make the ride bad by limiting suspension independence, side to side......id keep the stock bars and upgrade the mount bushings and endlinks....too much swaybar is a mistake i see here over and over and over

forget the beatrush....get an Oswald subframe if you relly want one... and a whiteline 'comfort' alk will fit using the stock u brace or the oswald part...

and im not sure id use the whiteline roll center kit on bombed out roads....it may be a bad idea....and not really necessary if you dont lower the car
thanks for respond!.couple of questions
- on the springs. i dont really like how my car is a 1 finger gap in the rear and the front has a 3 finger gap... looks saggy. i know my roads are pretty bad but i want something lower in the front atleast in between a 1-2 finger gap both sides. im mainly looking forward in buying the RCE yellows as i like the drop of it. but i see some people get the yellows for the front and blacks for the rear.. any comments on that setup ?

- And for the mount bushings you are talking about cant really seem to find what you are asking by anychance do you have a link?

Last edited by nycjon; 11-29-2012 at 06:24 PM.
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:46 PM   #5
Uncle Scotty
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get some 3/8" saggy but spacers for the rear and done
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:01 AM   #6
Bikelok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
get some 3/8" saggy but spacers for the rear and done
^^^this.

Just keep your springs and do this.

Feal will do a great job on your struts too.
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:07 AM   #7
Bikelok
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Just try to change as many bushings (all if possible) as you can and yes the Group N strut tops (front is more important than the rear) will make a world of difference.
Look at replacing your ball joints and tie rods too.
If you can do all of this (I know it's a lot), it will make such a big improvement.
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:07 AM   #8
Trea17
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For those roads I'm gonna have to agree. But as far as aftermarket goes the most common combo I have seen is 22 front set/22 rear adj. white line sways then agx struts paired with an eibach pro spring kit. Generally lowers the vehicle about 1 1/2 inches all around.

If you absolutely MUST spend a bunch of money I would by standard spec one replacements with a fancy stamp on them.
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:21 AM   #9
Bikelok
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nycjon, I lived in NY for most of my life. If your undercarriage is a rusty mess, get under it and spend lots of time with a wire brush, PB Blaster, WD-40 with some good grease and lots of elbow grease. You can make a big difference by getting off as much scale, rust and crud, then hit it up with the lubes to help protect what's left.

You will probably have to cut some of the bolts off when you start doing the suspension work. Start soaking with PB Blaster now and as often as possible.

Some people have used a mix of I think ATF with some other stuff to make a good penetrating fluid.
Perhaps some one can give the "recipe".

I used to do the undercarriage at the beginning and end of winter when I lived there. My cars looked like Cali cars.

Good luck.
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:08 PM   #10
jaboyd
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Default NY suspension

I had a 2005 STI but live in a much milder and hospitable climate. I ran coil-overs with relatively soft springs (450# frt, 375# rear) and 22mm front and rear swaybars w/KB links. It is a great combo but I'd tend to agree that coil-overs may not be the best DD choice up north. However, if you're going to Auto-x coil-overs are the best choice IMO.

I found that if you stiffen the chassis with braces (H brace, center braces, fender braces and upgraded bushings), you'll find the smaller 22mm swaybars are great. If you're going to leave the car pretty much stock (ie, minimal bracing and bushings and no coil-overs) and planning to autocross, the 24mm front bar will be better, and a 24 or 22mm rear sway will work depending on your preferance.

I'd stongly recommend an ALK (Whiteline) as well as a Front Roll Center kit (Whiteline) to help handling. Bushing upgrades (I prefer Group-N) for motor and transmission mounts as well as diff make a big difference, adding Outrigger and trans cross-member bushings are also beneficial on a GD.

The good news is that you can get Group-N motor mounts, trans mount, diff mount and pitch stop for under $500. The front bracing and ALK plus Roll Center Kit and misc bushings for another $500-600. If you can do most of the installation yourself, then you're in about the $1100 - $1200 range. Add camber bolts and a competition alignment for another $200, that leaves approx $600 - 700 for the sway bars, endlinks, and misc parts.
You can probably reduce this by 20- 30% if you'll buy used swaybars, links and bracing, which is readily available.

Remember you'll need to know which class you want to auto-x because it may limit what upgrades are legal.
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:57 PM   #11
nycjon
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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2005 WRX STi
Aspen White

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
you are in bombed out road hell...that means you need to stay as high as possible and keep all the suspension travel you can
this is also no place to even think about coilovers...for LOTS of reasons...but even $$$$ ones wont last long with the bad roads and winter salt

get your struts rebuilt/revalved by FEAL
keep the springs...they are really pretty good rates for bad roads
get group n front strut tops!!!

do NOT get big swaybars as this will make the ride bad by limiting suspension independence, side to side......id keep the stock bars and upgrade the mount bushings and endlinks....too much swaybar is a mistake i see here over and over and over

forget the beatrush....get an Oswald subframe if you relly want one... and a whiteline 'comfort' alk will fit using the stock u brace or the oswald part...

and im not sure id use the whiteline roll center kit on bombed out roads....it may be a bad idea....and not really necessary if you dont lower the car
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaboyd View Post
I had a 2005 STI but live in a much milder and hospitable climate. I ran coil-overs with relatively soft springs (450# frt, 375# rear) and 22mm front and rear swaybars w/KB links. It is a great combo but I'd tend to agree that coil-overs may not be the best DD choice up north. However, if you're going to Auto-x coil-overs are the best choice IMO.

I found that if you stiffen the chassis with braces (H brace, center braces, fender braces and upgraded bushings), you'll find the smaller 22mm swaybars are great. If you're going to leave the car pretty much stock (ie, minimal bracing and bushings and no coil-overs) and planning to autocross, the 24mm front bar will be better, and a 24 or 22mm rear sway will work depending on your preferance.

I'd stongly recommend an ALK (Whiteline) as well as a Front Roll Center kit (Whiteline) to help handling. Bushing upgrades (I prefer Group-N) for motor and transmission mounts as well as diff make a big difference, adding Outrigger and trans cross-member bushings are also beneficial on a GD.

The good news is that you can get Group-N motor mounts, trans mount, diff mount and pitch stop for under $500. The front bracing and ALK plus Roll Center Kit and misc bushings for another $500-600. If you can do most of the installation yourself, then you're in about the $1100 - $1200 range. Add camber bolts and a competition alignment for another $200, that leaves approx $600 - 700 for the sway bars, endlinks, and misc parts.
You can probably reduce this by 20- 30% if you'll buy used swaybars, links and bracing, which is readily available.

Remember you'll need to know which class you want to auto-x because it may limit what upgrades are legal.
Thank for your posts guys! i really appreciate you guys helping me out! i was completely lost.

So my first question would be ill get my struts rebuild by feal.. but im not going to keep my the pink springs ill go with RCE blacks. Also i want the fronts to be a bit lower so ill add those RCE Lowering front Camber Plates .. but i read that those camber plates arent too great for bad roads.. is that true? if i do get those front rce lowering plates should i get rear groupn tops?

2nd should i go with whiteline 24mm front and 24mm rear?
Also what do you think about used (no more then 10,000 miles) WL sway bars / endlinks by kb. (comes with everything)? good idea? or just get them new?

or should i go with the eibach sway bar kit which is 25mm front and i think 22mm rear ?
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:24 PM   #12
jaboyd
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Default swaybars

Used bars w/low miles are fine. They really don't wear out so look for damage and unusual wear at the mounting holes. Ideally you should get adjustable 24mm frt and either 22 or 24mm rear bars (I like Whiteline). Kartboy endlinks are ok, but tend to make noise with larger bars like a 24mm, especially in frt. The Whiteline endlinks work very well with their bars and have enclosed bearing surfaces. Heim joint endlinks (Perrin or Cobb) can wear out fast due to dirt so I'd probably buy new endlinks ....about $250 for a complete set.

If you don't have an H brace get a Cusco, GTspec or Whiteline to stiffen the front chassis.
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:48 PM   #13
nycjon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaboyd View Post
Used bars w/low miles are fine. They really don't wear out so look for damage and unusual wear at the mounting holes. Ideally you should get adjustable 24mm frt and either 22 or 24mm rear bars (I like Whiteline). Kartboy endlinks are ok, but tend to make noise with larger bars like a 24mm, especially in frt. The Whiteline endlinks work very well with their bars and have enclosed bearing surfaces. Heim joint endlinks (Perrin or Cobb) can wear out fast due to dirt so I'd probably buy new endlinks ....about $250 for a complete set.

If you don't have an H brace get a Cusco, GTspec or Whiteline to stiffen the front chassis.
thanks for the info! im going to get the Oswald subframe some time later on.. do i still need to get the h brace? or does the Oswald subframe do the job already ?
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:51 PM   #14
jaboyd
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Nope, you won't need the H brace.
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Old 12-01-2012, 02:41 AM   #15
Uncle Scotty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trea17 View Post
For those roads I'm gonna have to agree. But as far as aftermarket goes the most common combo I have seen is 22 front set/22 rear adj. white line sways then agx struts paired with an eibach pro spring kit. Generally lowers the vehicle about 1 1/2 inches all around.

If you absolutely MUST spend a bunch of money I would by standard spec one replacements with a fancy stamp on them.


oh go away with all that stupidity

he has an sti...not a wrx and YES it matters

dont post out your ass...it is annoying
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Old 12-01-2012, 02:43 AM   #16
Uncle Scotty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nycjon View Post
Thank for your posts guys! i really appreciate you guys helping me out! i was completely lost.

So my first question would be ill get my struts rebuild by feal.. but im not going to keep my the pink springs ill go with RCE blacks. Also i want the fronts to be a bit lower so ill add those RCE Lowering front Camber Plates .. but i read that those camber plates arent too great for bad roads.. is that true? if i do get those front rce lowering plates should i get rear groupn tops?

2nd should i go with whiteline 24mm front and 24mm rear?
Also what do you think about used (no more then 10,000 miles) WL sway bars / endlinks by kb. (comes with everything)? good idea? or just get them new?

or should i go with the eibach sway bar kit which is 25mm front and i think 22mm rear ?

do NOT go with big swaybars!!!

that is the biggest stupid thing i see here

too much swabar is a kiddie stupidity...dont
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Old 12-01-2012, 06:46 PM   #17
lukethedork
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
you are in bombed out road hell...that means you need to stay as high as possible and keep all the suspension travel you can
this is also no place to even think about coilovers...for LOTS of reasons...but even $$$$ ones wont last long with the bad roads and winter salt
Bold part is not true. His budget is $2,000. For this amount of money you can get some real (real meaning: 46mm, not made in china/taiwan) gravel coilovers, custom made/valved. Ask for a slightly softened gravel spec valving/springs and you will have the most comfortable pothole bomb proof suspension you can think of, and it fits inside his budget. Not to mention this will also likely outperform most other coilover/strut options when it comes to tarmac rally (aka. spirited street driving)
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:31 AM   #18
nycjon
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Default

about to get my struts rebuild by feal , adding rce yellows.. should i go with Com-c or group n for front top hats?

currently have installed on car

front/rear WL 22 adjustable sways
WL Steering rack bushing
WL ALK comfort.
KB front/rear endlinks ( which make a bunch of noise ) =/ does anyone also have this problem
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