2013 TMIC to TB Coupler Issues

OxCitywrx09 · 11-23-2012, 03:42 PM

Last night I was driving WOT up a grade to pass someone then all of a sudden my turbo spool got really loud with a loss of some power. After some research I found that the coupler has gotten loose on the TB. So today I took off the tmic but I can't get the coupler back on. I was wondering if any of you knew an easier way or a trick to get the coupler to slide on easier. I was thinking it needed some kind of lube but I didn't want to do that as it is right next to the TB.

Thanks in advanced for your help

-James

EDIT: issue fixed on pg. 2

* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

drewvdw · 11-23-2012, 03:48 PM

Take the sleeve off of the coupler, it's on the throttle body side of the coupler. It shouldn't be too difficult to do.

OxCitywrx09 · 11-23-2012, 03:56 PM

Thanks, I did just that now the coupler sits on the TB great. Should I take off the sleeve for the tmic too?

kingme · 11-23-2012, 04:48 PM

Yes.

Use hairspray as a lubricant to get the hose on. When it dries it acts as an adhesive.

drewvdw · 11-23-2012, 05:07 PM

Mine didn't have a sleeve to the TMIC...If it has one, go for it.

OxCitywrx09 · 11-24-2012, 08:47 PM

Thanks for all of the tips. I thought removing and reinstalling the tmic was going to be easy. I thought wrong. hahahaha.

2011dubrx · 11-24-2012, 10:14 PM

^hey man im from ventura county, we have a subie meet every sat night around 9ish in camarillo del taco of las posas. Come stop by.

OxCitywrx09 · 11-25-2012, 02:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2011dubrx

^hey man im from ventura county, we have a subie meet every sat night around 9ish in camarillo del taco of las posas. Come stop by.

That sounds great. I might be free next week so I will try to come and swing by!

I went out tonight to do some test pulls and I don't think I am hitting max boost now. Under WOT, I hit 15psi, then it tapers and stays at 13psi. From what I remember it should be at 14psi. I don't know if that is just me being paranoid, or is one psi a big deal? I will have to check it out tonight and make sure everything is seated properly. I didn't want to over torque some things so something might be loose. Is it normal to be at 13psi ?!

BobChestnut · 11-25-2012, 09:23 AM

I've noticed the same thing on my 2013 wrx as well except that it seems to sit around 10-11 psi and then usually I'm going to fast on roads i shouldn't be so i don't look at it again.

I've asked around and it seems to be normal just due to the nature of the waste-gate on these cars and what not, but i could be wrong feel free any one to correct me.

ERL2011wrx · 11-25-2012, 10:44 AM

This is a very common problem. If you don't plan to upgrade the tmic I'd suggest replacing that hose with an aftermarket one like the AVO.

OxCitywrx09 · 11-25-2012, 01:15 PM

So am I at a good boost pressure or do I need to replace that hose to be back at 14psi ?

xluben · 11-25-2012, 02:31 PM

If you remove the caps from both ends of that hose, you should not have to replace it. I run 27psi with the stock hose.

The stock turbo normally tapers at higher rpm. Unless you do a full 2k-redline pull and datalog it you won't know for sure if you're hitting your targets.

OxCitywrx09 · 11-25-2012, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xluben

If you remove the caps from both ends of that hose, you should not have to replace it. I run 27psi with the stock hose.

The stock turbo normally tapers at higher rpm. Unless you do a full 2k-redline pull and datalog it you won't know for sure if you're hitting your targets.

Thanks for the input Ben. I think I will be good for now as I have no means of data-logging, and the car feels great. The coupler seems to be holding on after going wot a few times. Ill probably go for a few more pulls later today to see if it will still hold up. If not I will have to try the hairspray trick.

The hairspray won't effect anything with the motor? I am just a little concerned because this is the coupler that attaches directly to the TB and I would think that you would want to keep any kind of chemical away from it for the sake of the motor.

424wrx · 11-25-2012, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OxCitywrx09

Thanks for the input Ben. I think I will be good for now as I have no means of data-logging, and the car feels great. The coupler seems to be holding on after going wot a few times. Ill probably go for a few more pulls later today to see if it will still hold up. If not I will have to try the hairspray trick.

The hairspray won't effect anything with the motor? I am just a little concerned because this is the coupler that attaches directly to the TB and I would think that you would want to keep any kind of chemical away from it for the sake of the motor.

i hairsprayed mine. its been good since.those endcaps are terrible from the factory.

OxCitywrx09 · 11-25-2012, 03:22 PM

Sounds great. I agree.. My coupler came right off when I removed the TMIC. It sure was a pain trying to get that thing back on tho lol.

OxCitywrx09 · 11-25-2012, 07:20 PM

I went out for some 1-3rd gear pulls and noticed a few things. From first to second I heard a squeak or chirp sound. And it seemed to be fine from second to third. When I got home I popped the hood and found the coupler to become slightly unseated. I think I am going to buy the avo coupler and some t bar clamps just for extra assurance.

I am planning on going stage 2 as soon as cobb releases the 2013 software so I think it would be a good thing to do.

drewvdw · 11-25-2012, 07:49 PM

Not necessary, but certainly not a bad idea. Just like a Forge (or other quality) BPV on an 08+ WRX after upping boost pressure.

OxCitywrx09 · 11-25-2012, 10:36 PM

This is kind of a long shot, but do any of you guys have a picture of the coupler with t bolts installed? I am curious to see how to position it since it will be a tight fit in there. I remember seeing it on a post a few days ago, however I can't seem to find it anywhere. I put in my order for 2 2.75" T bolts today and they should be here sometime this week and I couldn't find anything on how to position them.

OxCitywrx09 · 11-25-2012, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike 01Hawk

No point in wiping the oil away, it'll just come back

As for those 'socks', I think it has to do with an engine safety feature. They are meant to blow @ like 18psi or something low like that so you don't over-boost your engine. Go figure.

As for T-Bolt clamps, they were a SOAB to get them lined up, but after a lot of fiddling here's how I have mine situated.

Good luck

Found it! haha...
Here is the link to the thread to where I found the information.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...6#post38169596

It is amazing to see how many people have this issue straight from the factory.

drewvdw · 11-25-2012, 10:55 PM

I haven't swapped over to T bolt clamps, but I have gotten stronger worm clamps when mine failed. Damn auto parts stores around here don't carry T bolt clamps.

OxCitywrx09 · 11-25-2012, 11:03 PM

I didn't even bother to go to autozone or o'reilly's store around here. I just picked up the clamps from rallysport direct. I like their customer service, and buying out of state saves me from tax, so I can justify buying more parts haha :P.

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/ATP-...t-Clamp-2-75in

OxCitywrx09 · 11-26-2012, 03:33 AM

I had some downtime today so I decided to give it another try. It looked like I had the coupler on backwards. Put everything back together and now there is a loud whistle and even lower boost. FML... I will just have to wait for my parts to come in the mail now

424wrx · 11-26-2012, 07:02 AM

go to the dealer.

xluben · 11-26-2012, 09:58 AM

Did you remove the rubber caps from both ends? If you do that, and install it properly, you should not have any issues. The AVO is actually a hair shorter than stock, so it can make the problem worse. I would just use the OEM hose with T-bolt clamps and no rubber end caps.

OxCitywrx09 · 11-26-2012, 02:47 PM

That is really good to know. I would've thought the avo would be the same length. I did remove the end caps and the alignment of the tmic gets tricky since the coupler loses about a 1/4 inch in length without those rubber ends. I need to look everything over again tonight. Hopefully everything goes well. Hopefully i can put this behind me soon ! Thanks for the info.

11-23-2012, 03:42 PM	#1
OxCitywrx09 Scooby Newbie Member#: 216362 Join Date: Jul 2009 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: Ox City Vehicle: 2013 WRX DGM	2013 TMIC to TB Coupler Issues Last night I was driving WOT up a grade to pass someone then all of a sudden my turbo spool got really loud with a loss of some power. After some research I found that the coupler has gotten loose on the TB. So today I took off the tmic but I can't get the coupler back on. I was wondering if any of you knew an easier way or a trick to get the coupler to slide on easier. I was thinking it needed some kind of lube but I didn't want to do that as it is right next to the TB. Thanks in advanced for your help -James EDIT: issue fixed on pg. 2 * Registered users of the site do not see these ads. Last edited by OxCitywrx09; 12-01-2012 at 05:01 PM.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

11-23-2012, 03:48 PM	#2
drewvdw NASIOC Supporter Member#: 255776 Join Date: Aug 2010 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Laramie, WY Vehicle: 2010 LR WRX MPS and PAR powered.	Take the sleeve off of the coupler, it's on the throttle body side of the coupler. It shouldn't be too difficult to do.

11-23-2012, 03:56 PM	#3
OxCitywrx09 Scooby Newbie Member#: 216362 Join Date: Jul 2009 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: Ox City Vehicle: 2013 WRX DGM	Thanks, I did just that now the coupler sits on the TB great. Should I take off the sleeve for the tmic too?

11-23-2012, 04:48 PM	#4
kingme Scooby Newbie Member#: 280943 Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Northeast Vehicle: '11 WRX	Yes. Use hairspray as a lubricant to get the hose on. When it dries it acts as an adhesive.

11-23-2012, 05:07 PM	#5
drewvdw NASIOC Supporter Member#: 255776 Join Date: Aug 2010 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Laramie, WY Vehicle: 2010 LR WRX MPS and PAR powered.	Mine didn't have a sleeve to the TMIC...If it has one, go for it.

11-24-2012, 08:47 PM	#6
OxCitywrx09 Scooby Newbie Member#: 216362 Join Date: Jul 2009 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: Ox City Vehicle: 2013 WRX DGM	Thanks for all of the tips. I thought removing and reinstalling the tmic was going to be easy. I thought wrong. hahahaha.

11-24-2012, 10:14 PM	#7
2011dubrx Scooby Newbie Member#: 292943 Join Date: Aug 2011	^hey man im from ventura county, we have a subie meet every sat night around 9ish in camarillo del taco of las posas. Come stop by.

11-25-2012, 09:23 AM	#9
BobChestnut Scooby Newbie Member#: 335754 Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: North Dakota Vehicle: 2013 WRX WR Blue	I've noticed the same thing on my 2013 wrx as well except that it seems to sit around 10-11 psi and then usually I'm going to fast on roads i shouldn't be so i don't look at it again. I've asked around and it seems to be normal just due to the nature of the waste-gate on these cars and what not, but i could be wrong feel free any one to correct me.

11-25-2012, 10:44 AM	#10
ERL2011wrx Scooby Newbie Member#: 268931 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: PA Vehicle: 2012 wrx ice silver	This is a very common problem. If you don't plan to upgrade the tmic I'd suggest replacing that hose with an aftermarket one like the AVO.

11-25-2012, 01:15 PM	#11
OxCitywrx09 Scooby Newbie Member#: 216362 Join Date: Jul 2009 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: Ox City Vehicle: 2013 WRX DGM	So am I at a good boost pressure or do I need to replace that hose to be back at 14psi ?

11-25-2012, 02:31 PM	#12
xluben NASIOC Supporter Member#: 261612 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Minneapolis, MN Vehicle: 2011 WRX 5 Door NF Performance Stage 1	If you remove the caps from both ends of that hose, you should not have to replace it. I run 27psi with the stock hose. The stock turbo normally tapers at higher rpm. Unless you do a full 2k-redline pull and datalog it you won't know for sure if you're hitting your targets.

11-25-2012, 03:22 PM	#15
OxCitywrx09 Scooby Newbie Member#: 216362 Join Date: Jul 2009 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: Ox City Vehicle: 2013 WRX DGM	Sounds great. I agree.. My coupler came right off when I removed the TMIC. It sure was a pain trying to get that thing back on tho lol.

11-25-2012, 07:20 PM	#16
OxCitywrx09 Scooby Newbie Member#: 216362 Join Date: Jul 2009 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: Ox City Vehicle: 2013 WRX DGM	I went out for some 1-3rd gear pulls and noticed a few things. From first to second I heard a squeak or chirp sound. And it seemed to be fine from second to third. When I got home I popped the hood and found the coupler to become slightly unseated. I think I am going to buy the avo coupler and some t bar clamps just for extra assurance. I am planning on going stage 2 as soon as cobb releases the 2013 software so I think it would be a good thing to do.

11-25-2012, 07:49 PM	#17
drewvdw NASIOC Supporter Member#: 255776 Join Date: Aug 2010 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Laramie, WY Vehicle: 2010 LR WRX MPS and PAR powered.	Not necessary, but certainly not a bad idea. Just like a Forge (or other quality) BPV on an 08+ WRX after upping boost pressure.

11-25-2012, 10:36 PM	#18
OxCitywrx09 Scooby Newbie Member#: 216362 Join Date: Jul 2009 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: Ox City Vehicle: 2013 WRX DGM	This is kind of a long shot, but do any of you guys have a picture of the coupler with t bolts installed? I am curious to see how to position it since it will be a tight fit in there. I remember seeing it on a post a few days ago, however I can't seem to find it anywhere. I put in my order for 2 2.75" T bolts today and they should be here sometime this week and I couldn't find anything on how to position them.

11-25-2012, 10:55 PM	#20
drewvdw NASIOC Supporter Member#: 255776 Join Date: Aug 2010 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Laramie, WY Vehicle: 2010 LR WRX MPS and PAR powered.	I haven't swapped over to T bolt clamps, but I have gotten stronger worm clamps when mine failed. Damn auto parts stores around here don't carry T bolt clamps.

11-25-2012, 11:03 PM	#21
OxCitywrx09 Scooby Newbie Member#: 216362 Join Date: Jul 2009 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: Ox City Vehicle: 2013 WRX DGM	I didn't even bother to go to autozone or o'reilly's store around here. I just picked up the clamps from rallysport direct. I like their customer service, and buying out of state saves me from tax, so I can justify buying more parts haha :P. http://www.rallysportdirect.com/ATP-...t-Clamp-2-75in

11-26-2012, 03:33 AM	#22
OxCitywrx09 Scooby Newbie Member#: 216362 Join Date: Jul 2009 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: Ox City Vehicle: 2013 WRX DGM	I had some downtime today so I decided to give it another try. It looked like I had the coupler on backwards. Put everything back together and now there is a loud whistle and even lower boost. FML... I will just have to wait for my parts to come in the mail now

11-26-2012, 07:02 AM	#23
424wrx Scooby Specialist Member#: 171948 Join Date: Feb 2008 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: new york Vehicle: 08 wrx prem sedan vf52 swap. bilstein susp	go to the dealer.

11-26-2012, 09:58 AM	#24
xluben NASIOC Supporter Member#: 261612 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Minneapolis, MN Vehicle: 2011 WRX 5 Door NF Performance Stage 1	Did you remove the rubber caps from both ends? If you do that, and install it properly, you should not have any issues. The AVO is actually a hair shorter than stock, so it can make the problem worse. I would just use the OEM hose with T-bolt clamps and no rubber end caps.

11-26-2012, 02:47 PM	#25
OxCitywrx09 Scooby Newbie Member#: 216362 Join Date: Jul 2009 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: Ox City Vehicle: 2013 WRX DGM	That is really good to know. I would've thought the avo would be the same length. I did remove the end caps and the alignment of the tmic gets tricky since the coupler loses about a 1/4 inch in length without those rubber ends. I need to look everything over again tonight. Hopefully everything goes well. Hopefully i can put this behind me soon ! Thanks for the info.