Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Monday September 22, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Factory 2.5L Turbo Powertrain

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-01-2012, 11:55 AM   #1
johnyquest
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 258723
Join Date: Sep 2010
Default HELP! Car goes super lean (o2 CEL, NEW OEM o2, 300mi fresh motor) on highway...

P1153:Front oxygen (A/F) sensor circuit range/performance problem (high input)

2004 STI. Fresh motor.... I have a bunch of data logs that show this happening pretty clearly, but I'm new to the STi and therefore these forums (no longer lurking :P) and it doesn't look like I can post attachments.

So, I can't figure this out. Started with a cyl3 misfire (no-fire) which I tracked to a bad wiring harness on the #3 cyl injector plug. Fixed. First time I laid into it, Cyl#1 misfire, CEL ... turned out to be the COIL wire falling off the coil pack. Have addressed that.

Motor is completely a stock rebuild, brand new (<5000mi block) with 300mi on the build. Bought it off a friend who had it rebuilt three times under warranty, the third time they ordered and assembled a brand new motor, which, too blew up. Long story short, bought the entire car off of him after he took it back in and they stripped it down [cracked ringlands, just as i'd predicted from hearing it knock] -- and then proceeded to void his warranty.

Took delivery of it on a trailer and the motor in boxes. Rebuilt with stock pistons, new gaskets everywhere, ARP headstuds, cleaned and switched around the injectors, also swapped around the coil packs, agency power fuel system, ebay headers & upipe, stock turbo, noname (no idea?) aftermarket downpipe and full exhaust (all catless) and a simple Stage 2 Cobb OTS map, which *should!!* be piggly rich all over. Also has a walbro 255lph, stock everything else. Vacuum is -10PSI at idle, which is 20.4in/hg, so very strong for a new motor (obviously broke in very well, daily driver 2.0L other 05 WRX makes around 18ish in/hg). Did a 200mi crap oil break in & oil change and am at the 300mi mark.

On a cobb stage 2 tune, same results with either basemap only or basemap + realtime stage2 -- anytime I go to pull on the highway and cruise at highway speeds, the a/f ratio, according to the AP, goes to 20.3, and eventually throws a CEL.

This does NOT happen when cruising around town, WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd all report 11.1 AFR (super rich, obviously) ... but, well, here are some datalogs. You tell me. I'm BAFFLED. It's like completely speed related. Like simple highway cruising above 65MPH, it's over -- first the cruise control goes off, and the cruise light starts blinking -- and if I don't slow down so the sensor starts reading normally again (to like 60mph), it eventually throws a check. This is repeatable over and over. Noticeable performance loss, AFR spike, then CEL, AFR readings stays @ 20.3.

Oh, recently cleaned the MAF w/ maf cleaner spray -- that was one of the first hurdles I had to get over to get this thing to start / run at all (spider webs, car sat for 1.5 years).

Help! I mean, I thought I knew cars, but this one has got me. Bad MAF? GRR.

Matt
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

Last edited by johnyquest; 12-01-2012 at 09:44 PM. Reason: Correcting CEL code
johnyquest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 01:22 PM   #2
Tripintaz
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 245218
Join Date: Apr 2010
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: FL
Vehicle:
2013 STI Limited

Default

Am I understanding you correctly? You're saying the car runs fine at WOT and the AFR is good (11.1:1). But once the CEL comes on the AFR goes way lean at WOT?

Are you reading this off the AP or do you have an aftermarket wideband installed?

Side note, you've checked for vacuum and exhaust leaks already right?
Tripintaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 01:32 PM   #3
johnyquest
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 258723
Join Date: Sep 2010
Default

Edit- Just wanted to note I gave the wrong code in the original post.

Vacuum is great (-10psi @ idle), pressurized the intake manifold and it held very well.

I think you read it wrong -- maybe I said it wrong -- everything WOT is great except HIGHWAY speed cruising.

Literally cruise control set above 70MPH will eventually first disable cruise control (cruise light willl start flashing) and if I don't slow down, the AFR (on the COBB, have an AEM UEGO in the box but not installed yet) reads 20.3, and stays there. It seems to not *actually* be lean, but then it goes ahead and will throw P1153 -- O2 Sensor Curitcut Range/Performance (High) (Bank 1 / Sensor 1) -- which is a brand new sensor.

I just went out again to duplicate it for the COBB guys. Drove around town, it was fine. Pulled on the highway, WOT 1, 2, 3, everything is fine -- hit 65 ish, put it in 6th gear, put the cruise control on -- and then eased it up a mph as I went until I hit 70. About a minute into being around 70 mph, the AFR's began to creep from 14.7 to 15.5, 16, 17, 18, then 20.3 - stayed there, and then code.

Honestly, this only happens with highway driving. I'm baffled.

Last edited by johnyquest; 12-01-2012 at 01:46 PM.
johnyquest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 05:56 PM   #4
atomicfire
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 136296
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Midtown, Houston, TX
Vehicle:
2005 STi
OBP

Default

you said you had a new O2 sensor installed, is this the rear sensor that is normally in the downpipe, or the forward sensor in the headers?

It would be nice to wire in your UEGO so we can get good readings from a wideband. I know the front is wideband already, but the second opinion with the UEGO would be great.
atomicfire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 07:42 PM   #5
Tripintaz
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 245218
Join Date: Apr 2010
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: FL
Vehicle:
2013 STI Limited

Default

Well the engine would not actually run if the true AFR was 20:1 so it sounds more like fresh oxygen is making its way into the exhaust manifold somehow. And for the AFR to change that much I would theorize that maybe the AIR pump is coming on and pushing fresh air into the exhaust when it shouldn't . This usually only runs on cold start to help heat up the catalytic converter and the car is usually in open loop waiting for the cats and O2 to warm up. So if the air pump were coming on while the car was warm and operating in closed loop or would cause a problem such as the one you are describing. However that does not explain the flashing cruise control light. Doesn't that flash when the car is misfiring? Which would then indicate that it is actually really lean....hmmm

If there were an exhaust leak big enough for the AFR to go that lean you would most likely hear it.

I'm curious to see what solution you find as this is quit an odd problem. I'd be interested to see if your aftermarket wideband reports the same thing as the factory wideband.

When the car is reading that lean does it richen back up if you roll into the throttle some?
Tripintaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 09:15 PM   #6
johnyquest
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 258723
Join Date: Sep 2010
Default

When it's reading that lean per the cobb / accesstuner race even flooring it and theoretically forcing it into open loop does nothing for the AFR reading.

I'll get the UEGO installed asap. I see the aftermarket downpipe seems to have a plug & a spot to screw it in, so as long as it's not welded in place (looks like someone partially butchered this downpipe in it's past life) I'll be able to see what's *really* going on.

It's really baffling to me, too. I knew the cruise went on w/ the CEL, but never knew it could go on by itself. I've managed to workout all the issues that were causing misfires and haven't registered a misfire since.

I actually have a bunch of datalogs posted over on the cobb forums if any of you guys are curious to see the raw data for yourselves ... the thread is: https://forums.cobbtuning.com/forums...421#post669421

You can clearly see it happening -- it's massively weird and totally disturbing at this point ... I mean, WTF!
johnyquest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 09:23 PM   #7
johnyquest
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 258723
Join Date: Sep 2010
Default

Also -- what's this air pump you speak of, on a side note? When I was assembling the engine I don't recall seeing anything of the sort, unless it's got to do with the big tube coming off the back of the block and the white solenoid?

Thanks everyone for your input so far!


Matt
johnyquest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2012, 09:26 PM   #8
johnyquest
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 258723
Join Date: Sep 2010
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tripintaz View Post
Well the engine would not actually run if the true AFR was 20:1 so it sounds more like fresh oxygen is making its way into the exhaust manifold somehow. And for the AFR to change that much I would theorize that maybe the AIR pump is coming on and pushing fresh air into the exhaust when it shouldn't . This usually only runs on cold start to help heat up the catalytic converter and the car is usually in open loop waiting for the cats and O2 to warm up. So if the air pump were coming on while the car was warm and operating in closed loop or would cause a problem such as the one you are describing. However that does not explain the flashing cruise control light. Doesn't that flash when the car is misfiring? Which would then indicate that it is actually really lean....hmmm

If there were an exhaust leak big enough for the AFR to go that lean you would most likely hear it.

I'm curious to see what solution you find as this is quit an odd problem. I'd be interested to see if your aftermarket wideband reports the same thing as the factory wideband.

When the car is reading that lean does it richen back up if you roll into the throttle some?

YOU MAY actually be on to something -- there is an exhaust leak, but I didn't think it mattered -- i'm not running a gasket between the DP and the 2nd half of the exhaust -- and I DO have a rear o2 sensor in place.

What you are saying may be hitting the nail on the head here .... it's possible that at highways speeds air is getting into the REAR half of the exhaust and it's doing what you are saying ... son of a...!

Does it turn this pump on based on the rear 02 sensor's reading!? Is there a way to monitor if this is happening? I was under the impression only preturbo leaks would matter, and I used brand new gaskets for the manifold, upipe, and upipe to turbo with copper spray. I didn't happen to have a 3" gasket for the DP --> rear exhaust section and I didn't think it actually mattered (planned on just getting one ASAP) as I was under the impression the cobb map took the rear O2 out of play -- but since it's still actually there....

The leak isn't horrid but it's definitely there -- I'd probably be better off unplugging the rear sensor to rule this out, then, if this causes the air pump you're talking about to come on -- right?

Very interesting stuff..!


Matt

Last edited by johnyquest; 12-01-2012 at 09:34 PM.
johnyquest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2012, 06:27 PM   #9
Tripintaz
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 245218
Join Date: Apr 2010
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: FL
Vehicle:
2013 STI Limited

Default

Get any exhaust leaks fixed ASAP
Tripintaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2012, 07:33 PM   #10
Uncle Scotty
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 16200
Join Date: Mar 2002
Vehicle:
OK Houston
we have an Uncle

Default

the only exhaust leak that would matter would be between the heads and the bottom of the up pipe

and the 04 sti has no air pump

and we should be looking at any parts that have not been changed since all these engines have been blowing up

look at the harness for the front o2 sensor for broken/burned wires

the ecu maybe bad

stop driving the car unil you get it sorted as it will blow another engine here in a minit if you do keep driving it
Uncle Scotty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2012, 01:07 AM   #11
johnyquest
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 258723
Join Date: Sep 2010
Default

It's definitely not going to blow. It's not running a 20:1 AFR. It definitely would have blown up already. Also, thanks about the air pump -- I googled that and found out that it isn't present on a 04, as you said (scotty). Last time it was rebuilt by a dealership that can't tell a fan from a turbocharger it had audible knock. I told my buddy it was going to blow. This thing is running good. Before the sensor gives out I can see clear 11:1 AFR readings under full throttle. I know the stock sensor isn't 100% accurate, but I was at autozone today and took a picture of the screen -- bosch calls it a "wideband" sensor -- I see this is quite the hotly debated subject on whether or not it actually *is* wideband.

The problem seems to be getting worse. I'm leaning more towards a defective sensor. It's starting to duplicate this behavior off-highway now that I've got four or five tanks of gas through it. If it were lean, I wouldn't be getting 122 miles to a tank. The best I've done yet is a bit over 200, I think 228mi for 16 gallons.

I hate the fact that it might be the ECU. I find it really hard to believe that the damn ecu could go bad... I have 386 PC's that still work fine, and coming from the honda world about ten years back, it's a shock to see the diagnostics procedure be something along the lines of "check sensor, check wiring, replace ECU". I'd figure if it were "bad" the car wouldn't run. How does an ECU go "kind of" bad? Where's it even located on a Subaru? Is this common? How much for another and how does one go about getting one? eBay?

It's not the sensor wiring as I've gone over it end to end 100 times this week and weekend. I ended up trying unplugging the rear 02 to no avail (no change, same crap, then a CEL) -- I fixed the midpipe exhaust leak but like you guys said I figured that wouldn't matter.

There's no other changes from the way it was built, but who knows -- these no-name equal length headers (though not leaking) could be causing an issue. I was looking at them and I noticed I really disliked the way the bung was placed. It almost holds the sensor too far out of the pipe in my opinion, which may be part of the problem.

I'm figuring there *has* to be a warranty on this part that I bought from the dealer so I'm going to get it exchanged this week and rule it out. It's very possible I just could have gotten a bad one. I know one 3rd or 4th gear pull would have blown the thing if it was running anything near 20:1 AFR and it isn't.

I'll get the UEGO in next weekend and verify that once and for all.

Thanks everyone for your input so far,


Matt

Last edited by johnyquest; 12-03-2012 at 01:20 AM.
johnyquest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2012, 08:18 AM   #12
danger1138
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 279525
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: QUEENS NY
Vehicle:
04 rex luger!

Default

Maybe the fpr going bad?
danger1138 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2012, 08:40 AM   #13
johnyquest
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 258723
Join Date: Sep 2010
Default

That wouldn't explain their being no problems at full boost though it's worth a shot. I have an ebay adjustable with gauge that I could put in place of the stocker but I kind of trusted the stocker more. It seems there is a provision to hook the gauge up to the back of the Agency power Distribution block but I just don't wan't *more* fuel lines under my hood.

Also, just to let everyone know, I realized the MAF on my 05WRX was the exact same part as the 04STi so I swapped them to the same end result, e.g. cleaning it was enough, and it's reading fine.

This sucks.
johnyquest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2012, 09:42 AM   #14
Leafy
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 330625
Join Date: Aug 2012
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: MA
Vehicle:
2006 WRX
WRB

Default

Just get the wideband installed already. Its going to take you about an hour to install it, just go do it. If the wideband also reads that lean, you've got a massive leak (doubt it) or a misfire (remember, fail to fire miss fires read lean on bosch lambda sensors because of how they function). Or if the wideband reads normal, the sensor and/or wiring like likely funked.

To answer the ecu question. You can have only certain circuits on an ecu fail, and you can have internal connection of the board fail over time from fatigue. Its really uncommon but it happens.
Leafy is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2012, 08:23 AM   #15
johnyquest
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 258723
Join Date: Sep 2010
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy
Just get the wideband installed already. Its going to take you about an hour to install it, just go do it. If the wideband also reads that lean, you've got a massive leak (doubt it) or a misfire (remember, fail to fire miss fires read lean on bosch lambda sensors because of how they function). Or if the wideband reads normal, the sensor and/or wiring like likely funked.

To answer the ecu question. You can have only certain circuits on an ecu fail, and you can have internal connection of the board fail over time from fatigue. Its really uncommon but it happens.
Will do. Work pretty far so its weekends only for me...

Anyone know the warranty on dealer bought parts? I need to swap out this O2 as im rather certain its shot.

Thanks errybody -- updates to come.
johnyquest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 06:31 AM   #16
Uncle Scotty
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 16200
Join Date: Mar 2002
Vehicle:
OK Houston
we have an Uncle

Default

ya know...i seem to remember where some of these older gd's were having the harness to the fuel pump getting crushed and grounding out under the back seat.....


worth checking
Uncle Scotty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 07:19 AM   #17
jaxscuby
Sammo Hung
Moderator
 
Member#: 10613
Join Date: Sep 2001
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: S Ga / Hell Rock
Vehicle:
2002 USDM WRX
WRB

Default

double check all vacuum line around intake manifold.
also check for leaks around the intake manifold.

have seen several motors go from14.7 to lean during warm up
due to a leak at base of tgv to heads
jaxscuby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 05:24 PM   #18
johnyquest
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 258723
Join Date: Sep 2010
Default

It's the sensor.

Put in the AEM and it reads normally. Low 10's (there's some room for some tuning here, hello!) under load and normally around town. When the factory sensor goes to 20+ on the highway the AEM is relatively unaffected -- goes richer as a matter of fact as I guess the ecu attempts to compensate for the bad readings.

Bad news is even though this is a factory sensor I bought last week, and is "under warranty" -- it just got so butchered when I took it out (bung on the crappy ebay headers stripped it) that I doubt they're going to honor the warranty when I show up with it with the threads all chewed up and the faces of the thing eaten up by my vice grips.

Son of a. Looks like i'll be welding the bung that came with my AEM somewhere and plugging that son of a bitch up while I'm at it.

...unless, of course, it's the ECU -- but I hope not. Looks like the end of the sensor got bent a bit by the crossmember when the motor torqued due to the aftermarket placement of the sensor... That probably caused the problem, if I had to guess.
johnyquest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 06:00 PM   #19
hunteragp
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 266880
Join Date: Dec 2010
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Minot, ND
Vehicle:
2004 WRX STi
WRB on gold

Default

Yup, it looks like its the front 02 sensor. When mine went bad the AP would read very lean while my wide band would go rich (very). It's a terrible idea to go WOT with a problem like that. When the O2 sensor is reading lean the ECU compensates with more fuel. I was seeing 25% AF Correction! Cruising AFRs were on the10's! Change that sensor and install the new one carefully this time then reset the ECU.
hunteragp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 07:57 PM   #20
Uncle Scotty
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 16200
Join Date: Mar 2002
Vehicle:
OK Houston
we have an Uncle

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnyquest View Post
It's the sensor.

Put in the AEM and it reads normally. Low 10's (there's some room for some tuning here, hello!) under load and normally around town. When the factory sensor goes to 20+ on the highway the AEM is relatively unaffected -- goes richer as a matter of fact as I guess the ecu attempts to compensate for the bad readings.

Bad news is even though this is a factory sensor I bought last week, and is "under warranty" -- it just got so butchered when I took it out (bung on the crappy ebay headers stripped it) that I doubt they're going to honor the warranty when I show up with it with the threads all chewed up and the faces of the thing eaten up by my vice grips.

Son of a. Looks like i'll be welding the bung that came with my AEM somewhere and plugging that son of a bitch up while I'm at it.

...unless, of course, it's the ECU -- but I hope not. Looks like the end of the sensor got bent a bit by the crossmember when the motor torqued due to the aftermarket placement of the sensor... That probably caused the problem, if I had to guess.
headers....that is ANOTHER issue....

i have seen more than a couple guys who put headers on their cars and have the o2 sensor(s) die shortly thereafter!!!

seems it is the oil left over from making the header that gets burnt off and kills the sensor

this is why it is always a good idea to clean the INSIDE of the header out with gas or brake cleaner or whatever BEFORE you install it and run it
Uncle Scotty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 08:02 PM   #21
johnyquest
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 258723
Join Date: Sep 2010
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
headers....that is ANOTHER issue....

i have seen more than a couple guys who put headers on their cars and have the o2 sensor(s) die shortly thereafter!!!

seems it is the oil left over from making the header that gets burnt off and kills the sensor

this is why it is always a good idea to clean the INSIDE of the header out with gas or brake cleaner or whatever BEFORE you install it and run it

It looks more like the problem here is that the damn bung is placed in such a way that when the motor torques the sensor hits the crossmember and got bent.

I ran the car sans 02 for the first 100 miles so it definitely wasn't residual oil...
johnyquest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 08:05 PM   #22
johnyquest
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 258723
Join Date: Sep 2010
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hunteragp View Post
Yup, it looks like its the front 02 sensor. When mine went bad the AP would read very lean while my wide band would go rich (very). It's a terrible idea to go WOT with a problem like that. When the O2 sensor is reading lean the ECU compensates with more fuel. I was seeing 25% AF Correction! Cruising AFRs were on the10's! Change that sensor and install the new one carefully this time then reset the ECU.
haha normal off highway cruising I'd actually see between -8 and +8 corrections, but a lot of the time it was 0. It was only when I pulled on the highway that the factory (new) sensor went nuts (20+) and the AEM went richer and I too saw the AF#1 correction go to 25 and stay there...! When I was around town, the wideband and factory sensor pretty much were in agreement, keeping it pretty close to 14.7.

I hope they actually will exchange it as the damn thing got half mangled when I took it out

****ty e-bay manifold I inherited when I bought the car, motor in boxes... Lessons learned. I wish I had the stocker. I realized just the other day that it was an equal length, too, of all things, and it clicked as to why my STi didn't sound like a friggen subaru. Grr.
johnyquest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2012, 07:36 AM   #23
johnyquest
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 258723
Join Date: Sep 2010
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Just get the wideband installed already. Its going to take you about an hour to install it, just go do it. If the wideband also reads that lean, you've got a massive leak (doubt it) or a misfire (remember, fail to fire miss fires read lean on bosch lambda sensors because of how they function). Or if the wideband reads normal, the sensor and/or wiring like likely funked.

To answer the ecu question. You can have only certain circuits on an ecu fail, and you can have internal connection of the board fail over time from fatigue. Its really uncommon but it happens.
Curious -- how about the possibility I fried the sensor during the "fail to inject" problem I discovered that was the cause of the #1 cyl misfire that took me nearly 50+ miles to track down? Could be.

Either way, I'm going to need to plug & weld in said plug in the stock spot on these ebay headers and weld up the bung that came w/ my UEGO somewhere new to re-mount the stock o2 -- the ebay bung not only places the sensor so it hits the frame when the engine torques (this is my second suspect cause of the sensor problems, the end was bent) -- but is also stripped so badly I will not even attempt to screw a brand new sensor in.

Even if I can get it in, I doubt it will hold, and am pretty sure it'll bend again. Now I just need to find a good place to relocate the stocker -- and a drill bit big enough! Anyone know what size they actually are? I notice it's kind of got a lip on the weld-on bung and it's gotta probably be either 19mm or 3/4" I'm thinking, which is one big ass drill bit.
johnyquest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2012, 08:20 AM   #24
Leafy
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 330625
Join Date: Aug 2012
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: MA
Vehicle:
2006 WRX
WRB

Default

Yeah its 3/4. Get a uni-bit, and only go 80% of the way through with the 3/4" step size so you have a nice lip to set the bung on when you weld it so it doesnt fall through.
Leafy is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2012, 01:21 PM   #25
Uncle Scotty
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 16200
Join Date: Mar 2002
Vehicle:
OK Houston
we have an Uncle

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnyquest View Post
It looks more like the problem here is that the damn bung is placed in such a way that when the motor torques the sensor hits the crossmember and got bent.

I ran the car sans 02 for the first 100 miles so it definitely wasn't residual oil...

100 miles may not have been enough if you didnt clean it out before you installed it

but you need group n or better engine mounts or a real header or both, in any event
Uncle Scotty is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:48 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.