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Old 12-06-2012, 08:59 AM   #51
M45
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I would say "yes" and "yes". I suggest doing your first oil change at 1500 miles, and then use a 5000 mile OCI. Which is what I do on my car, although my trips aren't as short as yours, so your conditions are more extreme than mine. But I think my OCI is on the conservative side, so it should be fine for your situation too.

I will confirm the wisdom of my OCI at my next oil change, when I send in a sample to Blackstone for analysis. I will post my results someplace on this forum (I'll have to figure out the most logical thread for that).
if you can remember - PM me a link when you do. I'd be interested to see the results. I did this commute for a few years with my old car and it seemed to take it okay although I was getting a little goop on the oil cap from water vapor not getting burned off.
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:04 AM   #52
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I agree, and there is a oil analysis thread already on the forum.

However, there is one caveat. If you are leasing the car, or plan on trading it in within the first 200,000 miles I would just do the normal scheduled maintenance.

It is only us posers who want to really rack the miles up that need to worry about optimal oil changes IMHO. Internal engine wear takes a long time to manifest, longer than most people keep their cars.
I agree with this, except that I'd change your "200,000 miles" to "100,000 miles". I think people who intend to keep a car beyond 100k should follow a vigilant maintenance schedule.
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:08 AM   #53
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I agree with this, except that I'd change your "200,000 miles" to "100,000 miles". I think people who intend to keep a car beyond 100k should follow a vigilant maintenance schedule.
I'd wager most who keep the car after 100,000 want to see how long they can push it until repair costs become prohibitive.

Subaru owners as a group tend to drive the hell out of their cars.

But I agree, if you are not planning on replacing your current car payment with another one in 4 years, maintain your car well.
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:42 AM   #54
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I dont think 10 minute drives are extreme driving conditions.

To me extreme would mean racing or heavy off roading or extreme temperature climates. I find it hard to grasp that you could feather the gas pedal for 10 mins and call that extreme driving. I understand thats an increased number of cold starts and probably only city driving but i think (or would like to think) they take that into consideration when determining the 7.5k interval.
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:51 AM   #55
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I dont think 10 minute drives are extreme driving conditions.

To me extreme would mean racing or heavy off roading or extreme temperature climates. I find it hard to grasp that you could feather the gas pedal for 10 mins and call that extreme driving. I understand thats an increased number of cold starts and probably only city driving but i think (or would like to think) they take that into consideration when determining the 7.5k interval.
Short trips fall under the definition of 'severe driving conditions' because they do not allow the engine to fully warm up which means the oil does not get a chance to burn off moisture, etc, leading to premature oil aging.

http://www.tirereview.com/Article/89...ge_habits.aspx
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:54 AM   #56
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^^ You're probably right, myrt. But it will take a used oil analysis to know for sure. I'm going to do one at my next oil change, which will be at approximately 12k miles on the odo. Hopefully people like M45 will do the same, after they've done a few oil changes (I think doing a UOA from the first couple of oil changes isn't very informative, since an engine that isn't fully broken in tends to throw off some of the data).
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:02 AM   #57
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:13 AM   #58
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Those parts seem right. Good prices too. Ill prob end up buying the same items soon. I think last time i bought filters it was the 3pack for $22. So $6 each seems good.

Ive never had UOA done. Is it expensive?

BTW some good info on this thread i would feel foolish asking lol cheers
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:09 AM   #59
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Those parts are fine, but I would suggest buying a Fumoto F-108N valve instead of the crush washers. It makes the oil changes easier, less messy, and since the valve stays in place, you don't need a new crush washer each time.

http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-108N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003VCB9WC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1354810122&sr=8-1&keywords=fumoto+f-108nhttp://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-108N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003VCB9WC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1354810122&sr=8-1&keywords=fumoto+f-108n
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:14 AM   #60
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Here's a pic of the Fumoto installed on my Impreza:

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Old 12-06-2012, 11:33 AM   #61
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Nice I might get this. You think the dealership would say anything if i got it done there after i put it on? I doubt it but i wouldnt want them to remove it because they didnt know what it was.

Whats the 2nd outlet pointed away from the camera on the bottom? Just the switch mechanism? Why isnt there a cap or something on that opening?
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:34 AM   #62
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yeah - i know there is no reason that valve should affect warranty but the dealership stories make me paranoid.

so do you guys that use the valve put a hose on the end of it or do you just open it up and let it shoot into the oil catcher?
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:43 AM   #63
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yeah - i know there is no reason that valve should affect warranty but the dealership stories make me paranoid.
Exactly.

I wish there was one without the nipple, i checked their website with no luck for our car. The nipple-less ones seem much smaller.

Ill prob get it anyway. Thanks for the link.
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Old 12-06-2012, 12:44 PM   #64
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when subaru parts warehouse had a 20% coupon i picked up 6 filters for 25.00 i should be good until 50,000 miles but sometime before then I'm sure another sale will come up
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Old 12-06-2012, 12:46 PM   #65
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Exactly.

I wish there was one without the nipple, i checked their website with no luck for our car. The nipple-less ones seem much smaller.

Ill prob get it anyway. Thanks for the link.
i put a piece of 2" hose on the nipple with a cap for "just in case" and it is still contained above the splash guard, i'm not 1 bit worried about it because it is really up there.
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:14 PM   #66
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Nice I might get this. You think the dealership would say anything if i got it done there after i put it on? I doubt it but i wouldnt want them to remove it because they didnt know what it was.

Whats the 2nd outlet pointed away from the camera on the bottom? Just the switch mechanism? Why isnt there a cap or something on that opening?
I can't believe the dealership would care about the valve, but I make no promises.

What looks like a 2nd outlet isn't an outlet at all; it's just the valve mechanism.
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:19 PM   #67
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yeah - i know there is no reason that valve should affect warranty but the dealership stories make me paranoid.

so do you guys that use the valve put a hose on the end of it or do you just open it up and let it shoot into the oil catcher?
Yes, I put a clear plastic hose on the nipple, which prevents splashes during the draining process. 0W-20 oil comes out FAST when it's hot, so the valve/hose combination provides more control and avoids a big mess.

For those who prefer a valve without the nipple, you would order this model instead:

http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-108-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003VCCUJI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1354817830&sr=8-1&keywords=fumoto+f-108http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-108-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003VCCUJI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1354817830&sr=8-1&keywords=fumoto+f-108


It's the same P/N, but without the "N" (for "nipple"). But I don't know why anyone would prefer the valve without the nipple. Connecting the hose is really helpful.
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:26 PM   #68
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You jerk. Now I have a decision to make. Id have to buy the hose and its a couple bucks more. Thats why i would prefer the other. BUT it probably is easier.... ughh idk now


EDIT: only free shipping on nippled valve. made my decision.
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:46 PM   #69
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do you have to pull on the little handle before rotating to open this valve?

nm - looks like it does.

so what size hose do these take? can you just use vinyl or is there something else that should be used?
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:51 PM   #70
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EDIT: only free shipping on nippled valve. made my decision.
Don't sweat it. You made the right choice anyway.
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:54 PM   #71
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do you have to pull on the little handle before rotating to open this valve?

nm - looks like it does.

so what size hose do these take? can you just use vinyl or is there something else that should be used?
Yes, you pull on the handle, and then rotate 90 degrees to open the valve. And, if you ever decide to do a Used Oil Analysis, rotating the valve less than 90 degrees slows the flow, making it easy to take your sample without making a mess.

I don't remember what size hose it needs. I just brought my valve to the local home center before I installed it and figured out what hose fit best. I used a clear hose so that I can see the oil flowing through it.
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:55 PM   #72
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someone already pointed out, F108 or F108N, the only difference is the nipple (superior because you can hook up some tubing so no splashing at all...)
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:14 PM   #73
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so just as a final check. how much does the dealer charge for the oil changes?
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:37 PM   #74
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so just as a final check. how much does the dealer charge for the oil changes?
more money than I am willing to spend for something i enjoy and can guarantee was done correct
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:49 PM   #75
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about $60 i think. my first oil change was free and i did the last one myself but thats what ive seen them advertised as.

but oil change places used to charge about $25 for typical 10w-30 on my last car (not putting my baby through that)
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