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Old 12-04-2012, 09:07 PM   #176
KillerBMotorsport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post
If it was faintly lit, isnt that the same as being on, dim?
No, not at all. Different symptom, different cause.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pandasaurus_rex View Post
My dummy light comes on dim all the time. It's just a poor connection because I have a pressure gauge confirming that I always have at least 30-100 psi. It needs to be fully lit to be considered "on".
^ This. It's usually cause by corrosion/moisture. I can get worse or better depending on conditions and almost always cured by simply removing and re-installing the sensor.

The sensor is ON when it's as bright as when you first turn the key to the 'on' position before the engine starts. Anything less bright is cause by a poor ground between sensor and block.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:08 PM   #177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Layvon View Post
haven't seen a location that I can hook a gauge up to in 5 min. I know there is a way because there are too many people in here saying it is easy. ... Only places I know of are the oil galleys, which aren't exactly a common adapter you can pick up at your favorite autostore.

Levon
This.

You can take the OEM sensor out of its galley adapter, but its BSSP thread and any gauge youll find at the parts store will be NPT.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:10 PM   #178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Layvon View Post
Jack and Honda Slayer -

Do you think the safest way to check the oil pressure with the mech gauge to disconnect the crank sensor, and pull spark plugs out? That way if there isn't any oil pressure at least the crank isn't being forced into the bearings because of compression? That way if they aren't getting full oil pressure ( or any at all ) there isn't that much more force of friction?

Also - I've done a complete motor tear down and build, and haven't seen a location that I can hook a gauge up to in 5 min. I know there is a way because there are too many people in here saying it is easy. ... Only places I know of are the oil galleys, which aren't exactly a common adapter you can pick up at your favorite autostore.

Levon
I don't think the starter would crank the engine fast enough to see any real oil pressure numbers to begin with.

Joel
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:15 PM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport

No, not at all. Different symptom, different cause.

^ This. It's usually cause by corrosion/moisture. I can get worse or better depending on conditions and almost always cured by simply removing and re-installing the sensor.

The sensor is ON when it's as bright as when you first turn the key to the 'on' position before the engine starts. Anything less bright is cause by a poor ground between sensor and block.
That is it. The faint like is no where near the brightness of when the key is on "on".
But I will pick up a oil pressure gauge and go from there
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:41 PM   #180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lvlatthew View Post
That is it. The faint like is no where near the brightness of when the key is on "on".
But I will pick up a oil pressure gauge and go from there
It's worth checking for peace of mind if nothing else. Hey, you'll get to learn a little bit about what's going on under your hood, too.
You've gotten a lot of scary responses here, but with good reason. Let me put it into a little perspective for you: I've owned an 02 wrx for several years, and i've never seen my oil light come on (except for cranking). The consensus is that if the oil light actually comes on, it's not a warning but an indication that something catastrophic has occurred that will likely cost $Texas.
Behind all of the replies that may come off harsh are people that have wanted your car to be in working order.
Hopefully it was something to do with condensation as previously mentioned and you have nothing to worry about.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:58 PM   #181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanadianImprezaSTi View Post
I don't think the starter would crank the engine fast enough to see any real oil pressure numbers to begin with.

Joel
False. This is how you prime motors when new. I saw 25 psi within 5 seconds on a brand new motor.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:59 PM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post
You can take the OEM sensor out of its galley adapter, but its BSSP thread and any gauge youll find at the parts store will be NPT.
That is why I was wondering wehre the 5 min fix came in. . . by the time you buy the NPT to galley adapter, you might as well do a legit gauge install and be done with it, I have had a bad luck experience with the NPT / Galley Adapter not seating in properly and having a slow leak from that day forward. Not a huge deal, but one of those annoying things that are a pain.
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:03 PM   #183
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Originally Posted by Layvon View Post
you might as well do a legit gauge install and be done with it.
that's what we've been saying the whole time
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:15 PM   #184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Layvon

False. This is how you prime motors when new. I saw 25 psi within 5 seconds on a brand new motor.
+1 I saw 80 psi when I was priming my turbo the other day. This is cold T6, but still, the oil pump is turning with the rest of the engine.
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:15 PM   #185
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Most just thread the NPT sensor into the BSPT port. The thread diameter and pitch is so close that once the thread sealant is applied it seals just fine.

Many will argue that this is a bad and in any other situation I'd never recommend using the wrong threaded anything, but in this case, it's common and acceptable because it works just fine.
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:31 PM   #186
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Don't really understand the first part. But also if I get an oil gauge I am not sure how I would want to mount it. And all the different types (wide band?). But what's a good cheap setup in your guys opinions and brand of gauge
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:55 PM   #187
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I would like to point out a few things. Just because this is funny.

1. Vision, stop posting. Please. You pretty much wore out your keyboard for the last 7 pages just to question yourself when someone with real knowledge called you out. Congrats.

2. The light being dimly on is common during cold starts, or mornings with lots of moisture/dew. It sits on the sensor, gives it some connectivity, and faintly glows. Ask me how I know.

3. Lvlatthew, I made the same thread. Except my oil light was constant at idle, then went away under throttle. The car being under load/throttle will make up for the loss of oil pressure. I was advised to check my pick-up, sure enough it was mangled. Some of these guys are going over-board. I understand there trying to make a point, but it seems as if you're younger, while most here are adults. Which they probably don't understand. I'm sure when they're fathers, and one of there kids friends/internet forum buddies calls them crude names, they won't be to pleased.

With that being said, before purchasing a WRX, you should have done a little more research, and been prepared to pay repairs/bills on a sports car. I'm not saying that you didn't, but some of your posts imply it.

To me, it seems like a fluke. I've also seen threads where people have just checked the pick-up tube for peace of mind, only to find it cracked.

If I were you (in a situation where you have extra funds), I'd try to find a ride for the next few days, order a pick-up, and have the mechanic pull the pan.

Also, if you want to learn more about gauges, make a separate topic so it doesn't get cluttered, like this one has.

Hope this helps, from someone who has personally experienced both scenarios (moisture causing dimming light & cracked pick-up tube.)
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:16 PM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Layvon View Post
False. This is how you prime motors when new. I saw 25 psi within 5 seconds on a brand new motor.
I never said that it doesn't prime the pump. It's what I did when I rebuilt mine . I just questioned whether or not spinning the motor at starting speed will give you an indication that the pickup is cracked. At low speed it's not trying to pump much oil.

Joel
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:34 PM   #189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zach Bitzer
I would like to point out a few things. Just because this is funny.

1. Vision, stop posting. Please. You pretty much wore out your keyboard for the last 7 pages just to question yourself when someone with real knowledge called you out. Congrats.

2. The light being dimly on is common during cold starts, or mornings with lots of moisture/dew. It sits on the sensor, gives it some connectivity, and faintly glows. Ask me how I know.

3. Lvlatthew, I made the same thread. Except my oil light was constant at idle, then went away under throttle. The car being under load/throttle will make up for the loss of oil pressure. I was advised to check my pick-up, sure enough it was mangled. Some of these guys are going over-board. I understand there trying to make a point, but it seems as if you're younger, while most here are adults. Which they probably don't understand. I'm sure when they're fathers, and one of there kids friends/internet forum buddies calls them crude names, they won't be to pleased.

With that being said, before purchasing a WRX, you should have done a little more research, and been prepared to pay repairs/bills on a sports car. I'm not saying that you didn't, but some of your posts imply it.

To me, it seems like a fluke. I've also seen threads where people have just checked the pick-up tube for peace of mind, only to find it cracked.

If I were you (in a situation where you have extra funds), I'd try to find a ride for the next few days, order a pick-up, and have the mechanic pull the pan.

Also, if you want to learn more about gauges, make a separate topic so it doesn't get cluttered, like this one has.

Hope this helps, from someone who has personally experienced both scenarios (moisture causing dimming light & cracked pick-up tube.)
Thank you
I actually don't have any money really to spend ATM. But. Yea. Idk what else to say lol. I try not to make to many threads because yea don't wanna spam
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:40 PM   #190
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I dont know why people just dont use the OEM oil its not that much more expensive and it has all the chemicals and additives needed for the boxer engine there are very few oils that are equivalent or superior to it. If you tune up your engine you will want a more superior Oil.

Reference: 02 jap spec STI and a friend who tunes STI's for a living.
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:51 PM   #191
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I have never seen such panic, knee-jerk reactions, and bad advice in one thread before. That might just be because I don't look in this forum often enough, but this is still ridiculous.

Take -everything- in here with a grain of salt.

The car is 10 years old. There is a 99pointsomething percent probability that the sensor is just acting up a bit, like even the person here that sells oil pickups said was the case.. If you are still worried you can (or have someone else) pull the oil pan and make sure everything looks good. AFAIK there has never been a recall on the oil pickups, and it is probably fine. Throwing money at gauges and other things will not help diagnose anything here, especially if you don't know what you're looking at.
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:27 AM   #192
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Oil pressure gauges are something that every turbocharged vehicle should provide OEM, as the inclusion of a turbocharger is like running an N/A engine wide open very ofter. The fact that the bearings are counting on the film of oil to float on should warrant the proper instrumentation regarding oil pressure. I know that this is not a catch-all for oil starvation problems, as my turbo recently failed with perfect engine oil pressure (the jury's still out on what really caused the failure). But if pressure does drop off enough to engage the low pressure light, then your turbo is pretty much f***** if you hit anywhere near boost.
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Old 12-05-2012, 06:14 AM   #193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pandasaurus_rex
Oil pressure gauges are something that every turbocharged vehicle should provide OEM, as the inclusion of a turbocharger is like running an N/A engine wide open very ofter. The fact that the bearings are counting on the film of oil to float on should warrant the proper instrumentation regarding oil pressure. I know that this is not a catch-all for oil starvation problems, as my turbo recently failed with perfect engine oil pressure (the jury's still out on what really caused the failure). But if pressure does drop off enough to engage the low pressure light, then your turbo is pretty much f***** if you hit anywhere near boost.
Yea when the light was on for like 4 minutes when this thread was firrrst started. I never engaged in the boost. Yesterday I got on it carefully and seemed to be no problem at all.

I did happen to smell sulfur. Not sure if it was just in the air or something. Could've been
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:11 AM   #194
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Sulfur / Rotten eggs smell? I think that's an indication that you (or someone ahead of you) was running really rich.

Last edited by prabal43; 12-05-2012 at 11:25 AM.
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:28 AM   #195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prabal43
Sulfur / Rotten eggs smell? I think that's an indication that you (or someone ahead of you) was running really rich.
That's also what my dad said. Is that a bad thing? How can I fix that if it is me.
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:35 AM   #196
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Originally Posted by suuichi View Post
I dont know why people just dont use the OEM oil its not that much more expensive and it has all the chemicals and additives needed for the boxer engine there are very few oils that are equivalent or superior to it. If you tune up your engine you will want a more superior Oil.

Reference: 02 jap spec STI and a friend who tunes STI's for a living.
OEM Subaru oil is nothing special.. Most dealers will use the cheapest oil they can get a 55gallon drum of.
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:20 PM   #197
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lvlatthew, get a tune...
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:25 PM   #198
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Ibwhatsatuneicantafforditwhydoineedone
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:48 PM   #199
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Ibwhatsatuneicantafforditwhydoineedone
Roflcopter
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:32 PM   #200
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I already have a tune though


Just curious why you would say I need a tune
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