Turbo & all related replacement

lambose5 · 12-02-2012, 07:15 PM

Hello everyone, this is my first post here at NASIOC. I want to give thorough information on my situation so this post is long.

I first went to the 'newbies' forum and read some FAQ's that apply to my situation; the "Turbo FAQ" and that led to to also read the "Up-Pipe FAQ". They, the Turbo FAQ especially, were just awesome - thank you 'UB' and all for the extreme effort and time it had to take. If nothing else they allowed me to be able to make any further questions I might have on my endeavours more informed and specific.
I have also become a member at the Outback/LGT forums and Forester Forums, as I currently have an '01 Forester 'beater' that will hopefully get me through winter.

My vehicle:
Car: 2005 Outback XT, 2.5L
KMS: 114,000
Trans: Auto/Tiptronic

My situation:

I bought the car used, private sale, from an older lady. The turbo had "gone" again, the second time. The first time she had it replaced by the garage where she lives (small town garage). That was in April 2012, so that turbo lasted about 7 months. She didn't want to pay the $2500 for a new turbo replacement (!?).
I spoke to her mechanic about it and he said when he replaced it they checked and (I think) replaced the banjo bolt/screen and checked the line for blockage (with a flashlight and air maybe). I was surprised that the little shop knew about it.
Mechanic said it starts/runs and engine sounds fine, I agree for what its worth that the engine sounds ok. I have not removed the turbo or anything yet.

My questions/worries:

So I did some reading before, and a lot after, purchasing the car and despite lots of worry I bought it anyway.

My question is...
Given all that I've read about the turbo issue(s) and everything related that can destroy another turbo and potentially an engine, what do I need to do/replace/fix in order to be as sure as one can be to avoid any more problems/failures...%100 sure would be nice.

I.e.: The turbo could have sent pieces of its components into the intercooler or worse. There could be metal in the oil/oil pan/oil cooler. The up-pipe can disintegrate and send bits into the (new) turbo and engine and blow it up. The list goes on.

Here's what I'm thinking so far: (feel free to suggest alternatives)

1) New BNR 16G Turbo: Unless there is a more cost effective and still reliable replacement. I only want OEM'ish performance.
2) New Oil Line Kit (Full including ACVS) from Infamous Performance.
3) Gut Stock Up-Pipe
4) New Oil Cooler (would love to not have to buy)

"5") Drop oil pan to check for metal - can't pay to have done and haven't yet researched, but heard Legacy's are a PITA

* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

i_c_the_light · 12-03-2012, 12:00 AM

You should get the award for n00b of the year. That was amazing.

When the turbo was replaced, were they replaced with brand new or used? It could be the replacements weren't primed with fresh oil prior to start up.

drewvdw · 12-03-2012, 12:26 AM

This past year, there has been only one noob that was as concise and realistic as you. I commend you for doing the research you did. We need more members like you, please stick around

1-4 are solid ideas. 5 should also be a necessity. Get a compression test done while you're at it.

WRXSteye20008 · 12-03-2012, 12:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lambose5

The turbo could have sent pieces of its components into the intercooler or worse.

If it did that, your turbo has some weird reverse gravitational pull. It would shoot it into the engine, not the IC

drewvdw · 12-03-2012, 12:32 AM

^^^It would go into both

happs subi · 12-03-2012, 02:15 AM

Unless the compressor failed I don't see how fragments could end up in the ic.

But since you have a 2.5 liter, I don't think you have a catted uppipe.

Also, you might not have avcs

And if you get a 16g turbo, you will have to get a tune

sc00by4life · 12-03-2012, 06:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WRXSteye20008

If it did that, your turbo has some weird reverse gravitational pull. It would shoot it into the engine, not the IC

.....it has to go through the intercooler before it can get into the engine......

lambose5 · 12-03-2012, 05:46 PM

How do I multi-quote?

i_c_the_light
I'd love for the NOTY (newb of the year) award to be a BNR 16G.
99% sure it was replaced with a brand new OEM turbo.

drewvdw
1-4 eh? Ok. And checking the oil pan would be to let me know if it contains metal particles right, I can't just drain the oil and drag a magnet through it (current plan)? Maybe I'll look for a write-up on dropping it.

I've got an innova compression tester, same as any other vehicle? Remove spark plug(s), disable ignition and crank engine?

happs subi
I'm the newb, but I thought I read that only the '07+ imprezza had catless UP or something like that. I haven't seen anything suggesting my '05 OBXT wouldn't have AVCS - can anyone speak to these two things?
I know about the tune, thanks. "Anything other than another stock turbo/P&P stock turbo will need a tune".
I believe BNR purchases get you a discount on an "e-tune" from infamous..or visa versa.

sc00by4life ".....it has to go through the intercooler before it can get into the engine......
So it could theoretically send bits through the TMIC that could reach the engine, hurting both. Lol.

Thanks for the responses so far guys.

HinshawWRX · 12-03-2012, 06:34 PM

Multi Quote is this

button.

drewvdw · 12-03-2012, 07:24 PM

Pretty sure the NOTY award is a year's supply of E-penis enhancement...

lambose5 · 12-14-2012, 12:55 AM

So I guess I should at least remove the turbo and see what it looks like before I do anything.

Looking around, Not only does the BNR 16g look good, but it looks like its the cheapest option..?
If I wanted to just "get a working turbo" in it ASAP is there a cheaper, say $500, option?
I'm just curious now cause I thought I read the JDM outback has a Mitsubishi 13T... Is anything other than a BNR, or stock turbo a direct drop in/bolt on? Could one hit up eBay for a used/rebuilt mistbishi td04x-xx or something?

hudsonvalleybugeye · 12-14-2012, 07:07 PM

If you pull the intercooler off, you can stick your finger into the blower...may find oil,metal, or nothing. If you drop the downpipe, you can see/feel into the hot side of the turbo. this may tell you nothing, but it has to be done anyway to remove the turbo and can be a place to start trouble shooting. Just from the language and research in your posts, you are far more mechanically inclined than I. I owned/worked on my 03 wrx for about 8 years...you get to know them pretty well. Good luck, seems like youre on the right track.

lambose5 · 12-17-2012, 04:34 PM

...I'm considering this turbo; correct fittament, right?

lambose5 · 12-17-2012, 05:39 PM

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.ca/viewit...id=69878954442

lambose5 · 01-31-2013, 07:16 AM

So I got my turbo.

I have the Turbo to inlet, and the Turbo to exhaust gasket (turbo to down pipe and turbo to up pipe gaskets).

But looking at the turbo, it seems like I should need about 2 more gaskets. One looks like an oil line or something, and one looks like an 'air' port maybe.
Also, what about o-rings for coolant and oil lines?

I thought all I needed was the two gaskets.

Thanks.

lambose5 · 02-02-2013, 01:45 PM

Wow, no love.

happs subi · 02-02-2013, 02:23 PM

There should be oil and coolant inlet and discharge lines/ports. Air should only be coming in through the compressor inlet.

12-02-2012, 07:15 PM	#1
lambose5 Scooby Newbie Member#: 339331 Join Date: Nov 2012	Turbo & all related replacement Hello everyone, this is my first post here at NASIOC. I want to give thorough information on my situation so this post is long. I first went to the 'newbies' forum and read some FAQ's that apply to my situation; the "Turbo FAQ" and that led to to also read the "Up-Pipe FAQ". They, the Turbo FAQ especially, were just awesome - thank you 'UB' and all for the extreme effort and time it had to take. If nothing else they allowed me to be able to make any further questions I might have on my endeavours more informed and specific. I have also become a member at the Outback/LGT forums and Forester Forums, as I currently have an '01 Forester 'beater' that will hopefully get me through winter. My vehicle: Car: 2005 Outback XT, 2.5L KMS: 114,000 Trans: Auto/Tiptronic My situation: I bought the car used, private sale, from an older lady. The turbo had "gone" again, the second time. The first time she had it replaced by the garage where she lives (small town garage). That was in April 2012, so that turbo lasted about 7 months. She didn't want to pay the $2500 for a new turbo replacement (!?). I spoke to her mechanic about it and he said when he replaced it they checked and (I think) replaced the banjo bolt/screen and checked the line for blockage (with a flashlight and air maybe). I was surprised that the little shop knew about it. Mechanic said it starts/runs and engine sounds fine, I agree for what its worth that the engine sounds ok. I have not removed the turbo or anything yet. My questions/worries: So I did some reading before, and a lot after, purchasing the car and despite lots of worry I bought it anyway. My question is... Given all that I've read about the turbo issue(s) and everything related that can destroy another turbo and potentially an engine, what do I need to do/replace/fix in order to be as sure as one can be to avoid any more problems/failures...%100 sure would be nice. I.e.: The turbo could have sent pieces of its components into the intercooler or worse. There could be metal in the oil/oil pan/oil cooler. The up-pipe can disintegrate and send bits into the (new) turbo and engine and blow it up. The list goes on. Here's what I'm thinking so far: (feel free to suggest alternatives) 1) New BNR 16G Turbo: Unless there is a more cost effective and still reliable replacement. I only want OEM'ish performance. 2) New Oil Line Kit (Full including ACVS) from Infamous Performance. 3) Gut Stock Up-Pipe 4) New Oil Cooler (would love to not have to buy) "5") Drop oil pan to check for metal - can't pay to have done and haven't yet researched, but heard Legacy's are a PITA * Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

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12-03-2012, 12:00 AM	#2
i_c_the_light Scooby Guru Member#: 88618 Join Date: Jun 2005 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: New Zealand Vehicle: 1994 Legacy "The Silver Slug"	You should get the award for n00b of the year. That was amazing. When the turbo was replaced, were they replaced with brand new or used? It could be the replacements weren't primed with fresh oil prior to start up.

12-03-2012, 12:26 AM	#3
drewvdw NASIOC Supporter Member#: 255776 Join Date: Aug 2010 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Laramie, WY Vehicle: 2010 LR WRX MPS and PAR powered.	This past year, there has been only one noob that was as concise and realistic as you. I commend you for doing the research you did. We need more members like you, please stick around 1-4 are solid ideas. 5 should also be a necessity. Get a compression test done while you're at it.

12-03-2012, 12:32 AM	#5
drewvdw NASIOC Supporter Member#: 255776 Join Date: Aug 2010 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Laramie, WY Vehicle: 2010 LR WRX MPS and PAR powered.	^^^It would go into both

12-03-2012, 02:15 AM	#6
happs subi Scooby Specialist Member#: 200288 Join Date: Jan 2009 Chapter/Region: BAIC Location: East Bay Area, CA Vehicle: 2002 Impreza WRX World Rally Blue	Unless the compressor failed I don't see how fragments could end up in the ic. But since you have a 2.5 liter, I don't think you have a catted uppipe. Also, you might not have avcs And if you get a 16g turbo, you will have to get a tune

12-03-2012, 05:46 PM	#8
lambose5 Scooby Newbie Member#: 339331 Join Date: Nov 2012	How do I multi-quote? i_c_the_light I'd love for the NOTY (newb of the year) award to be a BNR 16G. 99% sure it was replaced with a brand new OEM turbo. drewvdw 1-4 eh? Ok. And checking the oil pan would be to let me know if it contains metal particles right, I can't just drain the oil and drag a magnet through it (current plan)? Maybe I'll look for a write-up on dropping it. I've got an innova compression tester, same as any other vehicle? Remove spark plug(s), disable ignition and crank engine? happs subi I'm the newb, but I thought I read that only the '07+ imprezza had catless UP or something like that. I haven't seen anything suggesting my '05 OBXT wouldn't have AVCS - can anyone speak to these two things? I know about the tune, thanks. "Anything other than another stock turbo/P&P stock turbo will need a tune". I believe BNR purchases get you a discount on an "e-tune" from infamous..or visa versa. sc00by4life ".....it has to go through the intercooler before it can get into the engine...... So it could theoretically send bits through the TMIC that could reach the engine, hurting both. Lol. Thanks for the responses so far guys.

12-03-2012, 06:34 PM	#9
HinshawWRX n00b Moderator Moderator Member#: 140114 Join Date: Feb 2007 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: Jolly ol York of VA Vehicle: 06 18G Semi Built SGM WRX	Multi Quote is this button.

12-03-2012, 07:24 PM	#10
drewvdw NASIOC Supporter Member#: 255776 Join Date: Aug 2010 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Laramie, WY Vehicle: 2010 LR WRX MPS and PAR powered.	Pretty sure the NOTY award is a year's supply of E-penis enhancement...

12-14-2012, 12:55 AM	#11
lambose5 Scooby Newbie Member#: 339331 Join Date: Nov 2012	So I guess I should at least remove the turbo and see what it looks like before I do anything. Looking around, Not only does the BNR 16g look good, but it looks like its the cheapest option..? If I wanted to just "get a working turbo" in it ASAP is there a cheaper, say $500, option? I'm just curious now cause I thought I read the JDM outback has a Mitsubishi 13T... Is anything other than a BNR, or stock turbo a direct drop in/bolt on? Could one hit up eBay for a used/rebuilt mistbishi td04x-xx or something?

12-14-2012, 07:07 PM	#12
hudsonvalleybugeye Scooby Specialist Member#: 295068 Join Date: Sep 2011 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Rhinebeck, NY Vehicle: 2003 wrx Sedona Red Pearl	If you pull the intercooler off, you can stick your finger into the blower...may find oil,metal, or nothing. If you drop the downpipe, you can see/feel into the hot side of the turbo. this may tell you nothing, but it has to be done anyway to remove the turbo and can be a place to start trouble shooting. Just from the language and research in your posts, you are far more mechanically inclined than I. I owned/worked on my 03 wrx for about 8 years...you get to know them pretty well. Good luck, seems like youre on the right track.

12-17-2012, 04:34 PM	#13
lambose5 Scooby Newbie Member#: 339331 Join Date: Nov 2012	...I'm considering this turbo; correct fittament, right?

12-17-2012, 05:39 PM	#14
lambose5 Scooby Newbie Member#: 339331 Join Date: Nov 2012	http://item.mobileweb.ebay.ca/viewit...id=69878954442

01-31-2013, 07:16 AM	#15
lambose5 Scooby Newbie Member#: 339331 Join Date: Nov 2012	So I got my turbo. I have the Turbo to inlet, and the Turbo to exhaust gasket (turbo to down pipe and turbo to up pipe gaskets). But looking at the turbo, it seems like I should need about 2 more gaskets. One looks like an oil line or something, and one looks like an 'air' port maybe. Also, what about o-rings for coolant and oil lines? I thought all I needed was the two gaskets. Thanks.

02-02-2013, 01:45 PM	#16
lambose5 Scooby Newbie Member#: 339331 Join Date: Nov 2012	Wow, no love.

02-02-2013, 02:23 PM	#17
happs subi Scooby Specialist Member#: 200288 Join Date: Jan 2009 Chapter/Region: BAIC Location: East Bay Area, CA Vehicle: 2002 Impreza WRX World Rally Blue	There should be oil and coolant inlet and discharge lines/ports. Air should only be coming in through the compressor inlet.