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Old 05-07-2016, 11:52 PM   #1
SatinMoochWRX
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Default Is this fuel cut? (Video included)

Car: 07 WRX TR
Mods: Cobb Accessport
Cobb intake w/box
Invidia catted DP
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Grimmspeed AOS
Stage 2 OTS map Cobb


https://youtu.be/u9VbJHzz51k

Did a 2-3 gear pull. 2nd gear felt solid rolled into 3rd and the car bucked and cut out. I'm going to try the LWG map from Cobb. Has any engine damage been done? 80k miles. Engine code p0244
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Old 05-08-2016, 01:17 PM   #2
SatinMoochWRX
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Any thoughts on this. I read into the CEL code and it seems like it was overboost that caused a fuel cut. What can I do to check for damage? I've loaded a low waste gate map from Cobb in hopes it won't happen again but I'm scared to drive it
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Old 05-08-2016, 05:16 PM   #3
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Mine did something very similar when I hit 23.5 psi (chilly temps). CE light illuminated.

I pulled the battery cable to reset the ECU...back to normal.

This has happened twice-no damage noted.
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Old 05-08-2016, 06:04 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by No Go View Post
Mine did something very similar when I hit 23.5 psi (chilly temps). CE light illuminated.



I pulled the battery cable to reset the ECU...back to normal.



This has happened twice-no damage noted.

Glad to hear no damage. This seems like a common thing. Just very scary the first time!
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Old 05-10-2016, 06:23 PM   #5
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Get a pro tune to help avoid the boost creep!
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Old 05-10-2016, 07:13 PM   #6
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So were you logging this at all? If so you would have been able to see exactly what happened looking at the data.

Have you done any logs?

You can still drive the car just be mindful about building full boost (i.e. don't floor it if you don't have to, use higher revs with a lighter foot.
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Old 05-10-2016, 07:29 PM   #7
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go with the LWG map and then get a real tune the AP maps are **** and is a universal map. get a real tune done and be done with any issues.
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Old 05-10-2016, 07:36 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by winston856 View Post
So were you logging this at all? If so you would have been able to see exactly what happened looking at the data.

Have you done any logs?

You can still drive the car just be mindful about building full boost (i.e. don't floor it if you don't have to, use higher revs with a lighter foot.

I was not logging at the time I have some logs but from awhile back. Should get some recent ones. Ive lightened up my foot as well lol
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Old 05-10-2016, 07:36 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by bmxhotsauce View Post
go with the LWG map and then get a real tune the AP maps are **** and is a universal map. get a real tune done and be done with any issues.

I've switched to the LWG map and gotten in contact with a couple tuners. Thanks
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Old 05-10-2016, 07:40 PM   #10
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So I had this same thing just happen to me like 20 min ago. 2008 WRX, Cobb AP v3 Stage 1 with AEM intake, using the stage1+SF 93 Map.. I was doing a 3rd gear pull to log and when I hit around 5200RPM the engine cut out for a couple secs and CEL came on as well as Cruise light and Traction Control light. I read the same CEL code P0244. Can anyone check out the log and give me advice? I see I'm hitting around 15.8 PSI for boost and the tune says it should be around 13 PSI. Whats going on?

LOG: http://www.filedropper.com/datalog4

Sorry it's so long, I forgot to stop it with all the commotion.
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Old 05-10-2016, 07:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALEXSB3 View Post
So I had this same thing just happen to me like 20 min ago. 2008 WRX, Cobb AP v3 Stage 1 with AEM intake, using the stage1+SF 93 Map.. I was doing a 3rd gear pull to log and when I hit around 5200RPM the engine cut out for a couple secs and CEL came on as well as Cruise light and Traction Control light. I read the same CEL code P0244. Can anyone check out the log and give me advice? I see I'm hitting around 15.8 PSI for boost and the tune says it should be around 13 PSI. Whats going on?

LOG: http://www.filedropper.com/datalog4

Sorry it's so long, I forgot to stop it with all the commotion.
Ok so straight out of the gate you have an AEM intake with a Cobb map, which specifically states in the notes that it's for the cobb SF intake and NOT a generic intake map. So you're already working uphill here, I understand but wanted to point that out.

After reviewing the log it looks like a usual overboost scenario. You were on target until about 3500 RPMs where you hit ~13.5 psi and it kept climbing beyond that up to just under 16PSI! (15.8) So you're overboosting by ~2.5lbs.

SO what you can try is the LWG version of the Cobb SF map but you really should get an etune/protune to make full use of your intake.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobb map notes
Hardware Requirements: Stage1 + SF - Otherwise stock vehicle with the COBB Tuning
SF Cold Air Intake System. The addition of any other hardware may make the vehicle
perform poorly. This is NOT a generic cold air intake calibration; this mapping is
specifically adjusted to the COBB Tuning SF CAI.
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Old 05-10-2016, 08:03 PM   #12
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Ok so straight out of the gate you have an AEM intake with a Cobb map, which specifically states in the notes that it's for the cobb SF intake and NOT a generic intake map. So you're already working uphill here, I understand but wanted to point that out.

After reviewing the log it looks like a usual overboost scenario. You were on target until about 3500 RPMs where you hit ~13.5 psi and it kept climbing beyond that up to just under 16PSI! (15.8) So you're overboosting by ~2.5lbs.

SO what you can try is the LWG version of the Cobb SF map but you really should get an etune/protune to make full use of your intake.
Thank you. I am now downloading the stage 1 AEM 93 map. Will this fix the issue? Or do I need the LWG map?

I do plan on having it tuned after my Turbo-back comes in a couple days.
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Old 05-10-2016, 08:57 PM   #13
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Thank you. I am now downloading the stage 1 AEM 93 map. Will this fix the issue? Or do I need the LWG map?

I do plan on having it tuned after my Turbo-back comes in a couple days.
The AEM map may very well resolve the issue. I would try flashing it and then going for a few logging pulls.

If that still doesn't fix it just drive cautiously until you can get tuned. Or replace the stock intake if you have it.
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:27 PM   #14
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So I just flashed the new map (STG 1 + AEM 93 NWG) and did an 80% pull. I didn't want to do the full pull till the ECU learns the new map but the real time boost still showed a high of 15.88 PSI. WTF? Should I just use the LWG map? Wait for the ECU to learn? Other issues?
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Old 05-11-2016, 07:17 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by ALEXSB3 View Post
So I just flashed the new map (STG 1 + AEM 93 NWG) and did an 80% pull. I didn't want to do the full pull till the ECU learns the new map but the real time boost still showed a high of 15.88 PSI. WTF? Should I just use the LWG map? Wait for the ECU to learn? Other issues?
Try switching to the LWG map, and see if there are any differences. If not, like Winston said, I would swap back to the stock intake, try reflashing, and see if you have any issues.

Your best bet is a protune though.
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Old 05-11-2016, 07:47 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by ALEXSB3 View Post
So I just flashed the new map (STG 1 + AEM 93 NWG) and did an 80% pull. I didn't want to do the full pull till the ECU learns the new map but the real time boost still showed a high of 15.88 PSI. WTF? Should I just use the LWG map? Wait for the ECU to learn? Other issues?

Lol our overboost problems. I've been fine on my LWG map. Try one out
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Old 05-11-2016, 02:00 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by ALEXSB3 View Post
So I just flashed the new map (STG 1 + AEM 93 NWG) and did an 80% pull. I didn't want to do the full pull till the ECU learns the new map but the real time boost still showed a high of 15.88 PSI. WTF? Should I just use the LWG map? Wait for the ECU to learn? Other issues?
Switch to the Low Wastegate map. The current map you're using has the waste gate duty cycles set too damn high for your setup.

For what it's worth I ran Cobb's stage 1 + EBCS map on my car orginally and had no overboosting issues. That was with stock everything except the boost control solenoid which was a 3 port.

You have the stock 2 port solenoid right? If so I'll bet the LWG map will resolve the over boosting for you.

According to Cobb it's ok if you overboost by up to 1PSI. You need lower WGDC so get on that LWG map!
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Old 05-11-2016, 05:09 PM   #18
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Switch to the Low Wastegate map. The current map you're using has the waste gate duty cycles set too damn high for your setup.

For what it's worth I ran Cobb's stage 1 + EBCS map on my car orginally and had no overboosting issues. That was with stock everything except the boost control solenoid which was a 3 port.

You have the stock 2 port solenoid right? If so I'll bet the LWG map will resolve the over boosting for you.

According to Cobb it's ok if you overboost by up to 1PSI. You need lower WGDC so get on that LWG map!
Will do. I will be getting the car pro-tuned once I install my turbo-back, but I still need to drive the car for the next couple weeks without blowing my motor/gaskets.
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Old 05-12-2016, 03:19 PM   #19
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I'm curious to know if the LWG map resolves the overboosting issue.
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Old 05-13-2016, 11:49 AM   #20
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I'm curious to know if the LWG map resolves the overboosting issue.
So last night I installed my Invidia Turbo-back and flashed the Stage 2+AEM 93 MT V300 LWG map. I hit boost levels around 18.88 (about 2 PSI higher than target, same as the stage 1 map). The map notes say it should be ~16 +/- 1 PSI. What's my issue? WG problem, map problem, needs a pro-tune, or other issues? I talked to my local speed shop (Six Star MS) and he told me I should do a log and make sure boost is tapering towards red-line. He recommended a boost controller and a pro-tune but also told me a spike to 18.88 for a short time with tapering to red-line is not a big problem.

Last edited by ALEXSB3; 05-13-2016 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 05-13-2016, 01:11 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by ALEXSB3 View Post
So last night I installed my Invidia Turbo-back and flashed the Stage 2+AEM 93 MT V300 LWG map. I hit boost levels around 18.88 (about 2 PSI higher than target, same as the stage 1 map). The map notes say it should be ~16 +/- 1 PSI. What's my issue? WG problem, map problem, needs a pro-tune, or other issues? I talked to my local speed shop (Six Star MS) and he told me I should do a log and make sure boost is tapering towards red-line. He recommended a boost controller and a pro-tune but also told me a spike to 18.88 for a short time with tapering to red-line is not a big problem.

Is your DP catted?
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Old 05-13-2016, 01:16 PM   #22
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Yes, single high flow cat.
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Old 05-14-2016, 12:24 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by ALEXSB3 View Post
So last night I installed my Invidia Turbo-back and flashed the Stage 2+AEM 93 MT V300 LWG map. I hit boost levels around 18.88 (about 2 PSI higher than target, same as the stage 1 map). The map notes say it should be ~16 +/- 1 PSI. What's my issue? WG problem, map problem, needs a pro-tune, or other issues? I talked to my local speed shop (Six Star MS) and he told me I should do a log and make sure boost is tapering towards red-line. He recommended a boost controller and a pro-tune but also told me a spike to 18.88 for a short time with tapering to red-line is not a big problem.
Alright that wasn't a load of ****e you were told

I would agree with some of those points. A 3 port would give you better control (response) and sure boost should be tapering towards redline.

I think for now you do not have to change any hardware, just the control of that hardware. What I mean is I believe those wastegate duty cycles are not working out for you as they are now.

On the one hand if the AFR is rich enough and you're not getting any knock I would also say you're fine. If FBKC and FLKC are 0 allllll the way to redline after multiple pulls then your engine isn't going to explode.

On the other hand I would say that a protune / etune should be next on your list because they will dial your car in for your setup where as the OTS maps are a 1 size fits all map.

Etunes are affordable around $100-200 range so there's not really an excuse.
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Old 05-14-2016, 03:32 PM   #24
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Alright that wasn't a load of ****e you were told

I would agree with some of those points. A 3 port would give you better control (response) and sure boost should be tapering towards redline.

I think for now you do not have to change any hardware, just the control of that hardware. What I mean is I believe those wastegate duty cycles are not working out for you as they are now.

On the one hand if the AFR is rich enough and you're not getting any knock I would also say you're fine. If FBKC and FLKC are 0 allllll the way to redline after multiple pulls then your engine isn't going to explode.

On the other hand I would say that a protune / etune should be next on your list because they will dial your car in for your setup where as the OTS maps are a 1 size fits all map.

Etunes are affordable around $100-200 range so there's not really an excuse.
Thank you for all your help. I just have a few more questions.

What is normal AFR range on the AP? I have done some 75% pulls just driving around. I get -1.4 FBK cruising once in a while but I have yet to see that happen in boost. DAM is always at 1.00, FKL is always 0.00.

Can you recommend someone who can do an E-tune? Or should I take it to Six Star/P&L and have them dyno-tune?

Thanks again.
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Old 05-15-2016, 09:54 PM   #25
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Thank you for all your help. I just have a few more questions.

What is normal AFR range on the AP? I have done some 75% pulls just driving around. I get -1.4 FBK cruising once in a while but I have yet to see that happen in boost. DAM is always at 1.00, FKL is always 0.00.

Can you recommend someone who can do an E-tune? Or should I take it to Six Star/P&L and have them dyno-tune?

Thanks again.
1. "Normal" AFR range depends on where the throttle is and if the ECU is in closed or open loop. If it's in closed loop (no boost, cruising/idling generally putting around it should be 14.7 and that's what the computer is programmed to target.

If you get on it and start building boost the AFR should start dropping down to 11.5 or lower (11.5 is the lowest you'll see on the AP). That is considered open loop. I was very basic about that description btw

If you're doing pulls your AFR will pretty much drop to 11.5 on the AP in a hurry as soon as you mash the throttle. It may be going lower than this, you just can't "see" it on the AP. It generally will be 10.5-11.5 (11.5 on the AP) when you're in any appreciable boost level (5+ PSI).

2. According to Cobb, a FBKC or FLKC of -1.4 or less especially in "low load" conditions (like cruising around in closed loop like I mentioned earlier) is of no consequence. The knock sensor is a glorified microphone which is bolted to the block and picks up any and all vibrations. Subaru tuned what freqencies it listens too because as you can imagine there are quite a few vibrations in the engine compartment and not all of them are knock.

If you are seeing that number randomly cruising around I wouldn't be too concerned with it especially out of boost. Just pay attention to those numbers when you do 100% throttle pulls and make sure they're 0.0 across the board, that's where it really matters. The important things are that the DAM always = 1.0, 0 FBKC/FLKC at 100% throttle and that you're not overboosting by more than 2 PSI. Technically any over boosting can be considered bad but if you're not knocking because of it then the tune is obviously safe enough to handle it or you would see knock and DAM less than 1.0

3. I have experience (good) with Torqued Performance. Google that and you will find Eric Minehardt's website and email address. He typically tunes 08+ but he tuned my 06 and its running like a top. No FBKC/FLKC to speak of. I would email him about tuning your car. Before you have him tune it, make sure it's mechanically sound and up to date on maintenance items so you don't miss out on any power / have any issues.

You welcome, let us know if there's more questions. Email Eric!
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