arp, seriously?!

rushdylan · 12-06-2012, 02:09 AM

I was planning on fitting my engine with ARP studs and main bolts till I found out they would cost me $600 combined! that is insane for bolts! are there other routes I can take or should I stick at stock? I ordered Manley forged pistons and eagle H beam rods so it will handle abuse of 450+ whp but I plan to achieve only 350. ideas?

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cha86 · 12-06-2012, 02:39 AM

why do you need main bolts?

rushdylan · 12-06-2012, 03:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cha86

why do you need main bolts?

just trying to build a motor that hopefully will never have problems.

sc00by4life · 12-06-2012, 03:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rushdylan

just trying to build a motor that hopefully will never have problems.

then you shouldn't be scared of spending money. motor builds are EXPENSIVE.

carfit · 12-06-2012, 03:51 AM

better is pay for good parts for motor build than for refurbish engine..

cha86 · 12-06-2012, 03:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rushdylan

just trying to build a motor that hopefully will never have problems.

i would suggest doing about a months more reading...you arent ready for a build of this magnitude if you are unsure about getting ARP main bolts.

no offense.

add to the price of those bolts a nice line hone and that'll put ya well over a grand for just those 2 parts.

rushdylan · 12-06-2012, 04:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cha86

i would suggest doing about a months more reading...you arent ready for a build of this magnitude if you are unsure about getting ARP main bolts.

no offense.

add to the price of those bolts a nice line hone and that'll put ya well over a grand for just those 2 parts.

I already had the home figured out but for some reason I remembered the ARP's for my truck being cheaper. maybe I'm crazy?

BmoreSti · 12-06-2012, 04:34 AM

Do it right the the first time.

I did ARP case bolts, head studs, and rod bolts

rushdylan · 12-06-2012, 04:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BmoreSti

Do it right the the first time.

I did ARP case bolts, head studs, and rod bolts

what was the total? I got my pricing from JSC. I'll have to bite my lip and pay up it looks like! I don't want to have problems later down the road especially since these motors can't be worked on while in the car

ARiSTA Performance · 12-06-2012, 05:37 AM

Shoot me a PM with what you need and maybe I can help you out. A motor build is extensive and a large investment. Rule of thumb, be READY to pay the double amount of your budget if stuff requires attention/replacement right away. It can get costly quick.

HinshawWRX · 12-06-2012, 06:39 AM

At 350 whp you don't need ARP anything.

drewvdw · 12-06-2012, 11:41 AM

I didn't get ARP case bolts for my motor, I stuck with stock for that, but I did go with ARP H11's for my studs.

rushdylan · 12-06-2012, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HinshawWRX

At 350 whp you don't need ARP anything.

that's what I was thinking. it's getting a 20g turbo and a big tmic with EQL headers. besides that, I have invidia turbo back, aps 65mm intake pulling from the fender, and 1,000cc injectors. although arp would be a great piece of mind! I'll more than likely do it.

drewvdw · 12-06-2012, 03:28 PM

Dom told me I didn't need ARP head studs, but I wanted the peace of mind as well. Just do them if you can afford it. It'll keep your mind at ease.

Loyale93 · 12-06-2012, 03:48 PM

Do some research in the "Built Motor"

I think you'll find that your stock block is fine. Doesn't sound like you're changing any internals.

mod maniac · 12-06-2012, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drewvdw

I didn't get ARP case bolts for my motor, I stuck with stock for that, but I did go with ARP H11's for my studs.

Thats what I did on my last two strokers.

mod maniac · 12-06-2012, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rushdylan

that's what I was thinking. it's getting a 20g turbo and a big tmic with EQL headers. besides that, I have invidia turbo back, aps 65mm intake pulling from the fender, and 1,000cc injectors. although arp would be a great piece of mind! I'll more than likely do it.

Add meth, stroker and it looks like my build. I just used arp head and rod bolts. We are along ways from needing block bolts.

drewvdw · 12-06-2012, 03:55 PM

Dom and I briefly spoke about them and he said that the regular ARP studs aren't much better (if at all) than the stock bolts. I don't think he would have let me spend money on the regular ARP studs

He's a good dude. Puts up with a metric **** ton of questions from me...

the suicidal eggroll · 12-06-2012, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rushdylan

I ordered Manley forged pistons and eagle H beam rods

Quote:

Originally Posted by Loyale93

Doesn't sound like you're changing any internals.

HinshawWRX · 12-06-2012, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rushdylan

that's what I was thinking. it's getting a 20g turbo and a big tmic with EQL headers. besides that, I have invidia turbo back, aps 65mm intake pulling from the fender, and 1,000cc injectors. although arp would be a great piece of mind! I'll more than likely do it.

Why not fill out your profile so we know what car you are working with. With the mods listed, you only hope to hit 350?

drewvdw · 12-06-2012, 04:13 PM

I'm guessing 08+ WRX and he's worried about the stock tranny so he's going to keep it around 350.

rushdylan · 12-06-2012, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drewvdw

I'm guessing 08+ WRX and he's worried about the stock tranny so he's going to keep it around 350.

here's my story, slipped a rod bearing and limped home. luckily I was a mere 1/2 mile from home. it's my 03 wrx and I want to build it to be fast but still last 100,000-150,000 miles. trying to save the tranny so I'm gonna stick with the stock clutch. the plan is to put the H beam rods and forged pistons in, stock cams, oem gaskets, get the crank, flywheel, and pressure plate balanced, and BC valves. 3 months after I finish the motor I'll add the 20g turbo and gt spec equal length headers. an intake manifold MAY be in the list but not for sure. gonna stick with TMIC. I already have the invidia turbo back, 1,000cc injectors, and the APS 65mm cold air. it should be capable of 420+ but I'm hoping to maybe run low boost and sit around 350.

drewvdw · 12-06-2012, 04:48 PM

Well, at 350whp with your tranny, I'd be worried. At 420whp...

good luck.

HinshawWRX · 12-06-2012, 05:02 PM

He can write a long post, but not fill out his profile.

And you can upgrade your clutch while the motor is out. Plus the whole "glass transmission" argument is about as dumb as all the ringland arguments.

rushdylan · 12-06-2012, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HinshawWRX

He can write a long post, but not fill out his profile.

And you can upgrade your clutch while the motor is out. Plus the whole "glass transmission" argument is about as dumb as all the ringland arguments.

using the nasioc app for my iPhone, haven't been on a computer for a while

edit: just used safari and went to the full site and updated everything! I<3 iPhone

12-06-2012, 02:09 AM	#1
rushdylan Scooby Newbie Member#: 337170 Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: hesperia, California Vehicle: 2003 wrx silver	arp, seriously?! I was planning on fitting my engine with ARP studs and main bolts till I found out they would cost me $600 combined! that is insane for bolts! are there other routes I can take or should I stick at stock? I ordered Manley forged pistons and eagle H beam rods so it will handle abuse of 450+ whp but I plan to achieve only 350. ideas? * Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

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12-06-2012, 02:39 AM	#2
cha86 Scooby Specialist Member#: 111048 Join Date: Mar 2006 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: AA, Mi Vehicle: I <3 debt word rally suck.	why do you need main bolts?

12-06-2012, 03:51 AM	#5
carfit Scooby Newbie Member#: 339830 Join Date: Dec 2012 Chapter/Region: International Location: Poland Vehicle: 2007 Forester	better is pay for good parts for motor build than for refurbish engine..

12-06-2012, 04:34 AM	#8
BmoreSti Scooby Newbie Member#: 230719 Join Date: Nov 2009 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: Baltimore, Maryland Vehicle: 2005 Sti Andrewtech & TurboXS FTW	Do it right the the first time. I did ARP case bolts, head studs, and rod bolts

12-06-2012, 05:37 AM	#10
ARiSTA Performance NASIOC Vendor Member#: 309599 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: New Jersey Vehicle: 2006 STi CGM	Shoot me a PM with what you need and maybe I can help you out. A motor build is extensive and a large investment. Rule of thumb, be READY to pay the double amount of your budget if stuff requires attention/replacement right away. It can get costly quick.

12-06-2012, 06:39 AM	#11
HinshawWRX n00b Moderator Moderator Member#: 140114 Join Date: Feb 2007 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: Jolly ol York of VA Vehicle: 06 18G Semi Built SGM WRX	At 350 whp you don't need ARP anything.

12-06-2012, 11:41 AM	#12
drewvdw NASIOC Supporter Member#: 255776 Join Date: Aug 2010 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Laramie, WY Vehicle: 2010 LR WRX MPS and PAR powered.	I didn't get ARP case bolts for my motor, I stuck with stock for that, but I did go with ARP H11's for my studs.

12-06-2012, 03:28 PM	#14
drewvdw NASIOC Supporter Member#: 255776 Join Date: Aug 2010 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Laramie, WY Vehicle: 2010 LR WRX MPS and PAR powered.	Dom told me I didn't need ARP head studs, but I wanted the peace of mind as well. Just do them if you can afford it. It'll keep your mind at ease.

12-06-2012, 03:48 PM	#15
Loyale93 Scooby Specialist Member#: 91347 Join Date: Jul 2005 Chapter/Region: NESIC Location: Medford, MA Vehicle: '13 XV Crosstrek, 1050 Triumph Speed Triple	Do some research in the "Built Motor" I think you'll find that your stock block is fine. Doesn't sound like you're changing any internals.

12-06-2012, 03:55 PM	#18
drewvdw NASIOC Supporter Member#: 255776 Join Date: Aug 2010 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Laramie, WY Vehicle: 2010 LR WRX MPS and PAR powered.	Dom and I briefly spoke about them and he said that the regular ARP studs aren't much better (if at all) than the stock bolts. I don't think he would have let me spend money on the regular ARP studs He's a good dude. Puts up with a metric **** ton of questions from me...

12-06-2012, 04:13 PM	#21
drewvdw NASIOC Supporter Member#: 255776 Join Date: Aug 2010 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Laramie, WY Vehicle: 2010 LR WRX MPS and PAR powered.	I'm guessing 08+ WRX and he's worried about the stock tranny so he's going to keep it around 350.

12-06-2012, 04:48 PM	#23
drewvdw NASIOC Supporter Member#: 255776 Join Date: Aug 2010 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Laramie, WY Vehicle: 2010 LR WRX MPS and PAR powered.	Well, at 350whp with your tranny, I'd be worried. At 420whp... good luck.

12-06-2012, 05:02 PM	#24
HinshawWRX n00b Moderator Moderator Member#: 140114 Join Date: Feb 2007 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: Jolly ol York of VA Vehicle: 06 18G Semi Built SGM WRX	He can write a long post, but not fill out his profile. And you can upgrade your clutch while the motor is out. Plus the whole "glass transmission" argument is about as dumb as all the ringland arguments.