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#26 |
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NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 255776
Join Date: Aug 2010
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Laramie, WY
Vehicle:2010 LR WRX MPS and PAR powered. |
I have no idea, I just heard about them working on it a while back.
Matty, screw the LSX. Yank a motor out of a P51 fighter plane. Something like 1500-1800hp as it sits. Then rebuild that with forged internals, etc, etc, etc. And enjoy 2000+ horses.
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#27 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 153880
Join Date: Jul 2007
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Western Slope, Colorado
Vehicle:03 Evo VIII 2011 STI |
What kinda fuel are you going to be using?
Cosworth crank isn't really lighter and stock can handle way more then 650whp just fine. Every single motor that we build uses ACL with no issue, the problems you find on here are from inexperienced users or builders. |
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#28 | |
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NASIOC Vendor
Member#: 200987
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: VA
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Quote:
I'd had few sets with inconsistencies in eccentricity (nothing really major) but that was about two years ago. I'm kind of looking forward to testing these new King bearings though. Yippy for another guinea pig project out of my wallet <---either laugh or cry ![]() |
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#29 | |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 333602
Join Date: Sep 2012
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Quote:
From my research the crank is about 2lbs lighter. But I was looking at arrow anyways for a crank as it stands I am sort of leaning towards them. I am intrigued by some of the design ideas from the king bearings too. I hope to see some results of some serious testing. Right now leaning towards ACL (uncomfortably). Will hold out for a bit. Some are saying ACL is still good to go I can wait just a little bit on that decision. And Micah I got your PM I am sold! Sounds like I just need your standard 300M rod and super sexy piston setup what's the compression ratio on that? As for fuel I am stuck with 94 octane, or race fuel or something I create. I do like to play around with chemistry so I may see what I can come up with that will add oxygen, boost octane number and wont kill me with fumes! lol No E85 around these parts that I am aware of (edmonton alberta canada, i.e. last stop before the oil sands) Matt |
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#30 | |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 333602
Join Date: Sep 2012
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Quote:
LOL!!!!!!! ![]() Or one of these: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cpDSvdLRODo lighter because Baller! ![]() ![]() |
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#31 |
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NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 255776
Join Date: Aug 2010
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Laramie, WY
Vehicle:2010 LR WRX MPS and PAR powered. |
Slap a couple turbos on this:
http://www.sonnysracingengines.com/e...p-new-for-2012 Or this: http://bangshift.com/blog/pri-2012-m...nd-turbos.html |
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#32 | |
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NASIOC Vendor
Member#: 200987
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: VA
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Quote:
As for the 818 build, I'm actually going to recommend a bit of a different build. It'll be more like what I'm going to recommend to Rasmus for his 818R build...but you'd get lower compression and wouldn't need to de-bore for displacement/weight rules. His thread for those interested: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2443521 |
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#33 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 333602
Join Date: Sep 2012
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The 818 comes in 2 different forms a race version (full scca/nasa approved cage and devoid of all non essential gear) and the street version. Factory Five also lets you mix and match parts. So I will be doing a mostly street version but use the full cage (but make some mods to allow for a second seat etc.). I am definitely interested though. Thanks for the awesome suggestions Micah.
Okay, so I have figured out pistons, rods and wrist pins. And I will be doing heads from headgames cause everywhere I look they seem to be the best. Kelford cams are at the top of the list right now, and ferrea valves. Not sure about valve springs. I want to be able to rev the thing to 9500 and not worry about valve float (I would redline at 9000 and use the rest as overrev protection). Will update the first post when I get a chance. |
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#34 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 333602
Join Date: Sep 2012
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Just a quick update. Been talking back and forth with 3MI on the motor.
Decided on a 100mm bore destroked build (with 3MI bits of course) More to come when things are closer to getting finalized, and details are sorted out. Matt |
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#35 |
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NASIOC Vendor
Member#: 200987
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: VA
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4" bore (101.6mm)
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#36 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 333602
Join Date: Sep 2012
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#37 |
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NASIOC Vendor
Member#: 200987
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: VA
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#38 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 333602
Join Date: Sep 2012
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#39 |
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NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 255776
Join Date: Aug 2010
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Laramie, WY
Vehicle:2010 LR WRX MPS and PAR powered. |
^^^Binary. Hands down.
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#40 |
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Scooby Guru
Member#: 32669
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Rancho C
Vehicle:2007 FR TS EFR 7670 LINK G4 hybrid STi |
555 = 22B in Hexadecimal
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#41 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 247252
Join Date: May 2010
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Hi Matt,
nice build have to admit. Reading between the lines you mentioned you were planing to install a Air-To-Water Intercooler...well guess what, I have one custome made by Enginee Logics incl. a custome made water take that replaced the battery lying around that has hardly been used. The whole set up is easy to install and can handle GT35 up to 35 PSI...just about the weapon of choice. Used in the Texas mile by some of Mike's customers. Just PN me if you are interested. The Kit as such was retailed over 2500$ and custom take is roughly 200$... |
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#42 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 333602
Join Date: Sep 2012
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Count me as interested, the 40R would be a closer match to an 8374 though.
I was thinking of getting a spearco a2w core and doing my own design to match with the intake manifold i am building. Going for as short a run of post compressor piping as possible with as few bends as possible. Do you have any pics of this intercooler? -------------- As for an update I am just getting my parts list sorted and getting quotes Waiting for Micah to hook me up with the engine quote (he's a busy guy and this is a slow build so I am in no rush). Haven't settled on clutch yet. I'm leaning towards a kaps R4 sequential. If its good enough for the afp crazy big power guys I should be okay. Plus there is support relatively close by should I need it. Suspension is a big unknown. Will have to see how things play out. Will probably just go with why the tic guys suggest. Matt |
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#43 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 247252
Join Date: May 2010
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Send me your email and I will send you the full documentation ok
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#44 |
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NASIOC Vendor
Member#: 200987
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: VA
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You also asked for some special work that isn't normal pricing
![]() It's coming. -Micah |
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#45 | |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 333602
Join Date: Sep 2012
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Quote:
It's all good, you have been awesome to deal with and have had put up with (and answered) a tonne of my questions!!!*seriously guys Micah is the man!! You're a busy guy so there really is no rush. Besides some of your other projects sound so SO cool!!!! I will be happy to get this built when it does, these things take time. I am no stranger to long time frames for large scale projects. And anyone who looks at the serious build threads around here (or any forum) will be able to see that. Either way when this build is done and my car is running like batman on fire i will be more than a beer in poop.. I think I need to work on my metaphors... ![]() ![]() Matt |
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#46 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 279728
Join Date: Apr 2011
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Charlotte, NC
Vehicle:2011 WRX limited Dirty Sock White |
What kind of oil pump and water pump are you going to use. I know customers who end up having cavitation problems with the water pump. I know dry sump isn't the best for a DD. due to the pump having to be replaced, and constant checking of the dry sump belt. Cause if it snaps, The motor is done. I would also say for the revs you're looking for. An electric water pump might be good idea.
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#47 | |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 333602
Join Date: Sep 2012
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Quote:
Matt |
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#48 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 333602
Join Date: Sep 2012
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Had a great long chat with Steve at rocket rally.
Still haven't decided on the kaps dog box or the R4 sequential kit yet. But he invited me out to their shop to have a visit and see what really works for me. I will get them to do my transmission upgrades. They have experience with albins, hewland, ppg, modena, and kaps. I think he mentioned their rally team is sponsored by albins (I think) and they have a few cars running the Kaps gear boxes. Really friendly and really informative. Plus they're in Canada (and in vancouver area which is where i often spend lots of time) so big bonus there. From my research the big players in the upgraded trans market (albins, hewland, ppg, Modena, kaps, prodrive) don't really have many differences in terms of longevity and resilience (this coming from many who've beat these things into submission). Shock loads seem to be the killers and dog ring failures not big power numbers. I'm not one for going to the drag strip nor rallies that are causing my car to get air time. So the number of super hard launches and hard landings off jumps will be minimal thus crazy shock loads won't be an issue. Proper shifting technique and ecu setup when shifting and I should be fine. Now I know this post isn't about engines. But thought you guys would appreciate the update. -Matt |
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#49 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 336241
Join Date: Oct 2012
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Colorado, New Mexico
Vehicle:08 Sti OPB |
Just took a look at your thread and really looking forward to seeing the build on the motor! Sounds very awesome!
Also just a heads up, I ended up going with Acl bearings in my engine build and had no problems, other then acl sending the wrong thrust bearing(as far as what my builder told me) I am at 8k on the built motor with no problems at all even with my turbo oil feed line Blowing up) |
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