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Old 12-18-2012, 02:03 PM   #1
BrendanTheGreat408
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Default Up pipe install on a 2011 WRX (Diy??)

So I'm going to be installing a Grimmspeed 38mm V-band up pipe and Tial 38mm EWG soon and I did a search for a DIY and didn't see much for the 2008+. I'm sure lots of people have done it themselves so did you follow in DIYs or anything?

From some quick research it looks like its a pain in the ass to do...especially one person with jack stands and a few ratchets lol agree or disagree?

I usually do all my own work but it seems like such a dozy I might just pay a someone with a lift or a shop to do it under the table....
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Old 12-18-2012, 02:54 PM   #2
HinshawWRX
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The install is the same, the motor configuration is the same from 02-2013.

Car still smoking?
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Old 12-18-2012, 03:14 PM   #3
Mr Wrex
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You may want to use ramps instead so you can safely jack up the motor to remove the stock UP. It's a pain to yank out with that fat heatsheild....
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Old 12-18-2012, 03:19 PM   #4
twinturbomeow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Wrex View Post
You may want to use ramps instead so you can safely jack up the motor to remove the stock UP. It's a pain to yank out with that fat heatsheild....
Listen to this guy, save you money dude all the uppipe bolts are visible and easy to get to. The hard part is gettign it out with the fat heatshield on it, but it does come out.
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:59 AM   #5
BrendanTheGreat408
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Do you have any DIYs I can check out? I think im gonna have access to a lift so it shouldnt be too hard, just a little unsure of how exactly to install the ewg and upipe...lol
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:19 AM   #6
Mr Wrex
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Grimmspeed has a video for it. If you're removing the OEM UP, you'll have trouble unless you loosen the motor mounts and jack the motor up a bit. Getting it all back in is the easy part
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:40 AM   #7
xluben
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I guess I will repost my info (again) from the last EWG thread in the 2.5L section. Hopefully you find it to be useful.

A couple notes:
  • For normal operation, you really only need one barbed fitting installed. Block off the rest of the lower air ports. The water ports and the top air port can be left open.
  • I had to jack up my motor to get it out. I had the headers off, and I couldn't manage to wiggle/pull/coax the OEM uppipe out. Maybe it's different on other model years.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Tial MV-R 44mm EWG.


EWG Opened. 3 Springs for 1.1 bar Setting.


Note 4 grooves in diaphragm and cover to align up to 4 springs.


Here you can see how far the valve opens. Note that diaphragm would actually be held down by cover and would not lose seal.


3 springs for 1.1 bar. Quite a challenge to get the cover back on!


Mock up for photo. Note that EWG and dump tube would really be turned 90 degrees when installed in vehicle.


I installed a GrimmSpeed crosspipe at the same time. Overall it really wasn't too bad, but it did take some time. I think it was between 5 and 6 hours total (uppipe, EWG, crosspipe, all work done by myself on jack stands). Since I was doing the crosspipe at the same time, I decided to take off the headers instead of pulling the turbo. To do the install I did the following:
  • Removed downpipe
  • Removed all uppipe bolts
  • Unplugged O2 sensor (located in passenger side header)
  • Removed heat shield from passenger side header
  • Removed heat shield from driver side header
  • Removed crosspipe
  • Removed passenger side header
  • Removed passenger side motor mount bolt
  • Jacked up motor ~1"
  • Removed uppipe
  • Installed GrimmSpeed uppipe
  • Loosely attached uppipe to turbo
  • Loosely attached crosspipe to driver side header
  • Loosely attached passenger side header to uppipe, crosspipe, and head
  • Tightened uppipe to header bolts
  • Tightened header to crosspipe bolts
  • Tightened header to head bolts
  • Tightened uppipe to turbo bolts
  • Tightened uppipe to motor bracket bolts
  • Installed dump tube to EWG (test fit for proper orientation)
  • Installed EWG to uppipe
  • Installed downpipe

Quite a list. No wonder it took me so long! I hit most of the bolts with PBlaster and none of them gave me much of a problem. Overall it was pretty smooth, just tedious work, especially on the ground with the car on jack stands. The hardest part was getting the EWG onto the uppipe. The V-band clamp was difficult to get into position with the limited space.

Note that I installed the dump tube onto the EWG first. I thought this was easier. I mocked up the EWG location and then oriented the dump tube so it was about one finger width, or slightly less, away from the axle. I clamped the dump tube to the EWG down tight while it was off the car. Then I bolted that whole assembly onto the uppipe.

UPDATE: Since the original install I've had to take the dump tube off several times. It's not hard to install/remove when the gate is installed on the uppipe, so there really isn't any reason you need to install the dump tube to the wastegate prior to installing onto the uppipe like I suggested above.

FYI - The dump tube should come off the EWG approx parallel to the gound. Once the downpipe was on it ended up being about the same amount of clearance from the dump tube (as to the axle). For the limited amount of room, the GrimmSpeed uppipe is really a perfect fit. At least 1/2"-3/4" clearance for everything.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Here are some installed shots of the EWG. As you can see, there isn't a lot of room, but the GrimmSpeed uppipe makes it all fit perfectly!





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Old 01-10-2013, 02:30 PM   #8
Subie_Noob_Brian
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It's easy.


Remove Intercooler
Remove turbo heat shield
Remove down pipe
Remove manifold
Unbolt uppipe
Jack up motor slightly
Remove uppipe

Then install new one. It's a bitch with the EWG but I found it easiest to assemble the uppipe/EWG/dump tube then wiggle it in there. Jack up motor more if you need too.

Make sure you get the angles on the EWG right by putting the DP back in place to make sure it all fits. It's a tight fit so mock it up before making the EWG is snugged down.

Good luck!
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:47 PM   #9
vision.dynamix
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I prefer to install the uppipe in the car, then the wastegate onto the uppipe and then the screamer onto the wastegate.

I actually find the 2-bolt flanges to be a lot easier to deal with for this, but alas, theres that advantage that the v-band has with the lack of gaskets.
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:08 AM   #10
rob2012subiewrx
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do u have to put the ones that say h20 on the wastegate in
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