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Old 12-19-2012, 02:51 PM   #1
ALX4247
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Cool Delta Race Cam Rebuild/EJ251

Almost done. thought it was time for an update before I get it tuned.

The build went very smoothly. I only broke one part on dis-assembly, the black plastic locking part for the ac belt tensioner. It was about $5 on eBay for an OEM one. Once all of the accessory belts were off, I had trouble breaking the crank bolt free. How I did it in the end was by putting the socket onto the breaker bar and bracing the breaker bar against the frame, near where the ac core in/out lines are located. i bumped the engine to turn it over and it popped free in one try. I was very pleased with myself. (seeing a I had struggled for a whole day prior to trying that method). Next was the timing belt cover. Cover came off easily enough, along with the timing belt. cam pulleys were next and those also pulled off rather easily (using a talon/claw style pulley puller). I removed the valve covers next, Tolerances were pretty tight and some bolts were difficult to get to since i had decided not to pull the motor, but the came off very easily. Next I dropped the headers from the block. Then Came the serious stuff, we pulled the head bolts. We were cautious to use liberal amounts of PB penetrating oil on every bolt, as not to shear a bolt or strip the threads in the block. They Popped free Very easily as well. Maneuvering the heads from out of the engine bay proved to be challenging. But with a little bit of patience and some cuts on the hands, they were out. I then pulled the cam shaft cap plate. There are quite a few bolts holding the cap to the head, so we were sure to organize and label every one very carefully. We were amazed @how clean everything was. The person that this car was purchased from said he had taken care of it, but i always take salesmen's words with a grain of salt, but this car was very well maintained. it looked to have grime from maybe one or two missed oil changes, but other that that is was very clean. once the end cap was off and the rocker assembly was free, we pulled out the cams and shipped them to Delta and the waiting game began. We decided to mod the air box for less restriction. We cut the back of the box out and removed all of the rain catch and front mounted scoop plastic. Paint time. Everything soaked in Simple Green overnight. In the Morning all of the parts (air box, timing belt cover, Radiator and valve covers) were scrubbed clean and rinsed. We abraded all painted surfaces with 400 grit black oxide sand paper. Next, Xylene, an industrial coatings thinner was used for the final prep cleaning (USE A RESPIRATOR WHEN EVER USING INDUSTRIAL THINNERS!). After the Xylene, The parts were probably cleaner then they ever were in japan. The paint we used is Duplicolor high temp engine paint in Ford Blue. I know, I know, Ford?! In hindsight I wish I had tracked down a darker blue, But it looks great none the less. once everything was painted we let it cure for as long as we possibly could. ver the next week or so we collected necessary parts. Belts, gaskets, plugs filters and hoses were all purchased from RockAuto.com. I had the heads machined also.

Once the heads were machined and the cams were back from Delta, re assembly began, we fit the cams to the heads and started to bolt down the camshaft cover according to the specs listed in the service manual. The cam rolled perfectly in the heads and once the rocker assembly was installed I could tell right away that we were working with a much more aggressive grind. While adjusting valve lash I used almost all of my adjusters length to take up the slack crated by the regrind.once everything was locked in place, and the plugs were gapped and installed (NGK Iridium IX) it was time to get the heads back on the block. We used Fel-Pro MLS head gaskets for no particular reason. getting the heads back in proved just as challenging as removing them, if not more so. Head Bolt torque sequence seemed strange, but it seems to be holding thus far. Valve covers went back on carefully, as not to mar the new paint. Timing was done using a Goodyear Gatorback timing belt (all rubber components are Goodyear). we re-installed the timing belt cover and started to run the accessory belts, we used blocks of wood and the old belts first in order to get a good amount of torque on the crank bolt.

Next came the new transmission fluid cooler I have zip tied it very securely to the vertical cross member that holds the horn assembly and also through the ac core on the opposite side. i ran new hose and clamps to the transmission fluid barbs located beneath where the battery sits.

Now we come to the new radiator, The whole reason this project began (headgasket causing excess pressure cracked my radiator). The radiator looked amazing. Dual core, 100% aluminum. When i had moked it up before i painted it the flanges in which the fan sits did not lign up with the plastic nubs on the bottom of the fans. We drilled out the holes so that the fans fit snugly and fashioned shock mounts out of scrap rubber.
We also had trouble seating the radiator assembly into the mounts in the engine bay. It took quite a lot of pressure before they sat down close enough to bolt. we also needed to modify the brackets for proper fitment.

I am currently waiting on an adjustable fuel regulator that should be here any day. Then I can do a quick tune so that the idle is more smooth and I will be able to drive it. It already sounds like a beast, the engine is breathing tons of air, but now starving for fuel. Will update again soon.


-ALX
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Old 12-19-2012, 05:23 PM   #2
Storm
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What grind did you get from Delta? Being an EJ251, you would be very pleased to find an 06+ 2.5i intake manifold and put it on. Huge gains from that piece compared to a stock 03 or earlier manifold.

Reading your description sounds like you did this with the motor still in the car......is this correct? It's so much easier to pull the the whole thing out!

Dont forget about the exhaust too....gotta free that up!

Good luck, sounds fun (well, I know it's fun)

Jay
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Old 12-19-2012, 05:28 PM   #3
GrundleJuice
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Why do you think it's lean? Making fueling changes without a wide band sensor is a recipe for disaster.

Anything but a mild cam regrind seems to cause idle issues on these engines. I would suspect that is the reason for the rough idle. Increasing idle speed a couple hundred rpm is an easy solution.

Adding fuel will not help the idle unless it's right on the edge of being so lean that it will not ignite. Increasing fuel pressure without being able to tune for the changes is a dangerous game, even with a wide band. Running an aggressive cam without tune is also not a good idea.

Hopefully your get everything sorted out without any harm being done.
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:06 PM   #4
ALX4247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm View Post
What grind did you get from Delta? Being an EJ251, you would be very pleased to find an 06+ 2.5i intake manifold and put it on. Huge gains from that piece compared to a stock 03 or earlier manifold.

Reading your description sounds like you did this with the motor still in the car......is this correct? It's so much easier to pull the the whole thing out!

Dont forget about the exhaust too....gotta free that up!

Good luck, sounds fun (well, I know it's fun)

Jay
We decided to go with a hybrid 1500/2000 grind.
We did the with the motor still in the car. It wasn't too bad. of course it would be easier with it out, but that's relative to all the intake/harness/fuel re-assembly work.

i am now on the hunt for a new intake manifold. thanks for the info.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceFaceXC View Post
Why do you think it's lean? Making fueling changes without a wide band sensor is a recipe for disaster.

Anything but a mild cam regrind seems to cause idle issues on these engines. I would suspect that is the reason for the rough idle. Increasing idle speed a couple hundred rpm is an easy solution.

Adding fuel will not help the idle unless it's right on the edge of being so lean that it will not ignite. Increasing fuel pressure without being able to tune for the changes is a dangerous game, even with a wide band. Running an aggressive cam without tune is also not a good idea.

Hopefully your get everything sorted out without any harm being done.
As far as I know, there are no ecu tuning options for this year/model.
Have you any idea of any options available for a 2000 ej251?
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:33 PM   #5
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Also i think its lean because I'm dumping a lot more unrestricted air into the throttle body and the fuel supply is factory set.
Is that a poor assumption?
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:21 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALX4247 View Post
Also i think its lean because I'm dumping a lot more unrestricted air into the throttle body and the fuel supply is factory set.
Is that a poor assumption?
I don't think anything you have done would increase the v.e. of the engine enough to max out the fueling system. The fueling logic is programmed from the factory but it is designed to be very flexible and able to adapt via MAF/MAP sensors, O2 sensors, etc. So until you max out the limit of fuel the injectors can physically pass through them the ecu should be able to compensate while in closed loop. In open loop, where engine speeds are higher and cylinder loads are higher, the ecu uses set values for fueling and applies any correction it had learned. Increasing fuel pressure should result in more fuel injected per injection event. But without a way to measure and adjust it can be risky.

As far as tuning options I know Crawford did some reflashing and there were SRS reflashes for late 90's subarus. That might be worth investigating. The problem is that it's unlikely it will be a tailor made tune for your modifications. The best route is a stand alone system but that's a lot of labor and cost.

Do some searching in the ecu/tuning forum. There should be an answer there.
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Old 12-20-2012, 10:25 AM   #7
Storm
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Crawford for the SRS series of ECU tuning for a non turbo will be your easy button, but the stock tune is still going to try and keep the AFR at it's target....if you're injesting more air, it'll add fuel until it cant add any more....then it'll code for fuel trims being lean. The cam you got sounds interesting, but I dunno if I would call it a race cam (I have the 3000 grind). I would absolutely make it a point to at least monitor your AFR even if you can't change it.

Jay
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Old 12-20-2012, 12:22 PM   #8
ALX4247
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Thank you everyone for your input!
I will be readjusting the idle and have also looked into the SRS.
I have seen a few and I know that if you are running the 1000 grind the srs-20 is a good re flash unit.
there is also a srs-30 option. does anyone know anything about these units and how the different versions differ?
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Old 12-20-2012, 01:11 PM   #9
ALX4247
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If you're not familiar with the RS Reflash, it's close to your only option for tuning the ECU of your beloved 99-02 RS. We have 4 flashes based on your modifications:
SRS-10: 6500 rev-limit / horsepower gains of 5-10 and torque gains of 5-10 over stock.
For a completely stock RS.
SRS-19: 6500 rev-limit / horsepower gains of 10-15 and torque gains of 10-15 over stock / for use with CA 91-octane or HIGHER. Car must have the following modifications:
Headers
High-flow cat
Torque box
3" intake
SRS-20: 6500 rev-limit / horsepower gains of 15-20 and torque gains of 15-20 over stock / for use with CA 91-octane or HIGHER. Car must have the following modifications:
Headers
CATLESS exhaust
Torque box
3" intake
SRS-30: 6900 rev-limit / horespower gains of 25-30 and torque gains of 15-30 over stock / for use with CA 91-octane or HIGHER. Car must have the following modifications:
Cams (Delta, Street, other)
Headers
High flow OR catless exhaust
Torque Box
3" Intake
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:53 AM   #10
Storm
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I think at this point, you would want to contact Crawford and discuss exactly what you have, or are planning motor wise. They will be able to suggest the most appropriate tune for your build. It would be unwise to suggest something from this thread.

That being said, I know people who daily drive on SRS30 tunes......

Jay
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