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Old 03-29-2015, 03:51 AM   #1
salvi
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Default 2003 WRX EJ207 V9 project :)

We've had many Subarus in the past. Currently I have a GR after loosing my GC. My wife drives this bugeye with no issues until a couple of weeks ago. Car barely hit 100k miles this past Dec, I did the timing belt, and now we got almost no compression on cyl 4. After many days of pros/cons we decided not to fix the WRX engine and go for a JDM EJ207 swap.

I'm not new to swaps since I completely swapped my GC to WRX in my little one car garage. I've done some research and this swap seems to be much easier since wiring merge will not be needed. If anyone has done this type of swap, I welcome you to provide advice.

Here's a pic of the said car when we took a trip to AZ.



OEM motor before starting removal.





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Old 03-29-2015, 03:56 AM   #2
salvi
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Motor finally out, it wasn't so difficult.



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Old 03-29-2015, 04:01 AM   #3
salvi
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Since motor is out, now is the time to clean the engine bay. Threw some engine degreaser, minor scrubbing, and washed off everything with a spray bottle. Currently only the left side is done, need to complete the rest.

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Old 03-29-2015, 04:07 AM   #4
salvi
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After reading a lot of reviews and installs I noticed that JDM Racing Motors/J-Spec Auto kept appearing over and over again. At the time I didn't know that they were the same company. I contacted them and finally decided to go with a v9 EJ207.

The engine should be here within a week or two.

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Old 03-30-2015, 01:06 AM   #5
salvi
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So far I have gathered this:

1. The NPS polarity will need to be reversed since its a v9 going into a 2004 and below.
2. Avcs harness will need to be made or purchased. Motor vendor has told me that they will send me whats needed in order to avoid purchasing one, but will see what really is what they offer.
3. Going to use all the accesories from the donor motor.
4. Donor motor doesn't have the cruise control lever. Will swap cruise control from WRX without taking throttle body off.
5. Leave the IAT sensor unplugged so you don't get a flashing CEL...
6. Remove AVCS/turbo oil line filters
7. Grind down 5 speed tranny bell housing to allow twin scroll turbo to clear ( http://saab92x.com/viewtopic.php?id=55713&p=4 )
8. Install 3 wire AC female plug on JDM compressor and make connector for the other two wires ( http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...88585&page=274 )

Things to purchase:

1. VF37 DP gasket (IA Performance)*******************ONHAND
2. Gates Racing timing belt kit (IA Performance)*********INSTALLED
3. OEM thermostat (IA Performance)*****************INSTALLED
4. Walbro 255 fuel pump w/ install kit (IA Performance)***ONHAND

5. AVCS harness********************INSTALLED
(Used TGV wires for driver's side and using vendor provided harness for passenger side)

6. Oil (Rotella T6 (Walmart))**********ONHAND
7. Coolant (Walmart)****************ONHAND

8. Spark plugs (NGK BKR7EIX (Napa))**INSTALLED (15 ft/lbs)
9. Radiator hoses (Napa)*************ONHAND

10. ATF fluid (Off the shelf)***********ONHAND

11. Oil Filter (Dealer)*****************ONHAND
12. Air filter (Dealer)*****************ONHAND
13. Fuel filter (Dealer)****************INSTALLED
14. Rear main seal (Dealer)************INSTALLED

15. Engine mount nut (Hardware store)

16. Timing belt guide (IAG Peformance)***INSTALLED


**Timing Belt info that was provided in the EJ207 owners thread

Version 9 will take the same parts as the version 8 ej207 (both are 2.0L).

OEM
The USDM STI timing assembly (2002-2007) is compatible with the ej207 version 7-9 with 1 very slight difference to timing belt small idler pulley (see the bolt part numbers below). In short, if you want OEM, then the off the shelf Subaru parts will suffice. The timing belt, idlers, cog, water pump, should all be interchangeable. Shoot, even the AVCS intake and exhaust cam gears are the same for Version 7-9 and 2004-2007 STi.

Aftermarket
Gates makes replacement kits, with and without water pumps, as well as with and without Kevlar reinforced timing belts. The 2004-2007 STi kit should fit fine. The only slight wild card will be the length of the small idler pulley bolt, which Subaru sells.
Longer Idler Bolt (2.5" end to end) 800708460, $1.06 retail
Shorter Idler Bolt (2.0" end to end) 8008208320, $1.78 retail

Last edited by salvi; Yesterday at 01:05 AM.
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Old 03-30-2015, 09:45 AM   #6
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I don't know much about the V9 but I swapped a V7 into my 02. I went ahead and bought a wiring kit for it. It is no more than 4 or so wires to get the AVCS working. You don't need to wiring kit, but it kept it looking more clean under the hood and took a total of 5 minutes to install. You will love the motor, the avcs and 8K rev limit makes this much more enjoyable to drive than the ej205. I purchased my motor from the guys at JDM Racing engines too and no issues with it.
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Old 03-30-2015, 11:22 AM   #7
salvi
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Quote:
I don't know much about the V9 but I swapped a V7 into my 02. I went ahead and bought a wiring kit for it. It is no more than 4 or so wires to get the AVCS working. You don't need to wiring kit, but it kept it looking more clean under the hood and took a total of 5 minutes to install. You will love the motor, the avcs and 8K rev limit makes this much more enjoyable to drive than the ej205. I purchased my motor from the guys at JDM Racing engines too and no issues with it.
Did you lose your Cruise Control with your swap?

Last edited by salvi; 03-30-2015 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 03-30-2015, 12:09 PM   #8
96SubyImpreza
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I made my own AVCS harness from a $3 wire from home depot and not only did it come out flawless but it sends signal almost instantaneously once the car is started (most don't).
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Old 03-30-2015, 12:48 PM   #9
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add timing belt kit to your list. dont be surprised if oil pan is dented in either.
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Old 03-30-2015, 01:07 PM   #10
salvi
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Quote:
I made my own AVCS harness from a $3 wire from home depot and not only did it come out flawless but it sends signal almost instantaneously once the car is started (most don't).
I've been thinking of creating my own as well. I have a really good soldering gun and I'm good at wiring, etc. Seems like they sell 100ft of shielding 4 wire cable on ebay for like 6 dollars. Where did you get the needed pins and water seals?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/18-AWG-4C-18...item3f48aa49c1

Quote:
add timing belt kit to your list. dont be surprised if oil pan is dented in either.
I've been thinking whether to just inspect it and leave it and replace it 30k miles later or just replace it now. I have a spare STI oil pan that I can use, but did you guys replace yours or leave it as is?
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Old 03-30-2015, 01:33 PM   #11
96SubyImpreza
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I had an old harness laying around that I pulled pins out of. I was surprised at how easy it was to find a four wire shielded cable. The hardest part was the connection at the ECU. Those tiny pins are miserable little bastards and getting them to seat right took a good amount of patience.

You're going to love this set up, it's an amazing motor. You will want to follow this guide if you haven't seen it already: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4s...jZDM1YWE4/view
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Old 03-30-2015, 02:06 PM   #12
salvi
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Quote:
I had an old harness laying around that I pulled pins out of. I was surprised at how easy it was to find a four wire shielded cable. The hardest part was the connection at the ECU. Those tiny pins are miserable little bastards and getting them to seat right took a good amount of patience.

You're going to love this set up, it's an amazing motor. You will want to follow this guide if you haven't seen it already: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4s...jZDM1YWE4/view
Thanks for the info. I've seen that guide, seems that it uses the TGV wires and add additional ones as well. I was thinking that it would be easier just to run new wires to avoid having to unpin from the ECU.
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Old 03-30-2015, 02:22 PM   #13
96SubyImpreza
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Quote:
Originally Posted by salvi View Post
Thanks for the info. I've seen that guide, seems that it uses the TGV wires and add additional ones as well. I was thinking that it would be easier just to run new wires to avoid having to unpin from the ECU.
Correct, you jump the TGV's to utilize them as AVCS, then add the AVCS harness. You can certainly do it whatever way you want, I do agree that unpinning from the ECU is a serious pain in the ass.
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:40 PM   #14
salvi
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Vendor will be providing passenger side harness and will use TGV wires for the rest.

================================================== ===

Motor is on its way


Last edited by salvi; 04-10-2015 at 01:18 AM.
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Old 04-06-2015, 12:04 PM   #15
salvi
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AVCS Wiring begins

Since the motor won't be here until next week, I decided to start tackling the AVCS wiring. I'm going to be using the TGV wires instead of purchasing a $200 harness. I read all the instructions from the DS1 document and the instructions that the vendor has provided.

We will be working with the center plug on the ECU (B84).



This is the plug disconnected.




Below is the plug's OEM and current ECU pinout from the DS1 document. I reversed the numbers so they can match to the actual picture that I took of the plug. The wires that need to be moved are highlighted (4,5,10,11).

Pin#---------Pin Color--------------------Function
======================================
Pin 4---------Blue w/ Green stripe-------TGV RH actuator (-)
Pin 5---------Yellow w/ Green stripe-----TGV RH actuator (+)
Pin 10--------Blue w/ Yellow stripe-------TGV LH actuator (-)
Ping 11-------Blue------------------------TGV LH actuator (+)

**Note: On the DS1 document some of the wires colors don't match exactly for some reason. Seems like a typo.




To use the TGV wires, the current pins above will have to be depinned and inserted into their new locations.

Pin 4-------to------->Pin 6
Pin 5-------to------->Pin 12
Pin 10------to------->Pin 16
Pin 11------to------->Pin 17

The first step to depin the wires is to unlock the clip. The lock is integrated on the side of the clip, it's easily unlocked with a small flat head screwdriver.



Now, many people had issue with the depinning process, most gave up and just bought the pre-made harness or simply cut the wires and soldered new pins.

In order to release the lock from the pin, you must stick a small flat head screwdriver on the hole above the actual pin. Most people were not clear of how to do this and just stated to push the screwdriver in and it should unlock. I tried this at first, but it was not working out. After looking at the clip and how the pins lock in place, I figured out how to perform the depinning.

First, I pushed the wire from the bottom side of the pin to give the pin some slack off the hook. I then inserted the screwdriver into the hole pushing at an angle against the pin. You will hear a small click, then angle the screwdriver the opposite direction to move the clip away from the pin. Hold the screwdriver and pull on the wire and it will come out easily. It took me only a couple of minutes to depin and reconnect all the wires.



Here is the final location of the wires. Make sure to push the lock back into place on the clip.



To finish the process, the pins on the black plug located in the driver's side engine compartment must be moved as well.

This is how the OEM plug looks. All 4 wires will need to be moved one position up.
From left to right, the corresponding pins on the ECU that were previously moved are Pin 16, Pin 17, Pin 12, and Pin 6.

**Note: Looking at all the wires on this plug, the colors all match with the ECU colors except Pin 12. At the ECU is Yellow w/ Green stripe.



The first step is to remove the lock from the black plug. This is done by carefully prying off the white lock from it. Use small screwdrivers at opposite ends until it completely comes off.



Next, use an extended paper clip to push out the dust/water boots located on the holes where the wires will be moved to. Then, using a small screwdriver, push the locking tab away from the pin and slide out one wire at a time. Place each wire in its new location right after removing it.



Re-insert the dust/water boots and the lock. The final plug should look like below. This concludes the process of moving your TGV wires to use for AVCS.


Last edited by salvi; 04-10-2015 at 01:17 AM.
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Old 04-06-2015, 01:29 PM   #16
AWDWRXLOVER
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Congrats on purchase!
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Old 04-07-2015, 10:27 PM   #17
salvi
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Default AVCS wiring

AVCS Wiring continues...

To add AVCS to the WRX original harness 8 total wires are needed. 4 on the driver's side and 4 on the passenger side. I've completed the driver's side wires by using the existing TGV wires in the post above.

For the passenger side, the AVCS wires need to be added to the big plug that is located on the bracket right next to the boost controller. It has an orange lock and the plug is grey in color.

From the pics and info I've received from the vendor, I will be getting this plug with all the wiring to include the AVCS wires with the engine. From their instructions, they state to leave the OEM plug in place and to run the new harness into the cabin and connect everything to the ECU. This would mean that I would have to unpin all the existing 4 wires from the ECU and reconnect all the new wires from their provided harness. I'm not liking this idea because depinning the ECU connectors is not hard, but not easy either.

If my above assumptions are correct, what I plan to do is much simpler. I will depin the 4 needed wires from their provided harness and add the wires to the OEM plug. Run the 4 wires into the cabin and simply plug in the new wires to the ports on the ECU. The same procedure as if I would have bought a pre-made harness.

This is the harness that I received from the vendor after removing all the wires that were not needed. It's much longer then needed, but I just took the extra slack off in the cabin.



To begin the process, I disconnected the plug from its bracket and carefully removed the orange lock. It took a couple of minutes with some small flat heads, but eventually it popped off.



Here is a comparison between the USMD and JDM wire plugs. The JDM has the additional 4 wires that we need for AVCS. All is needed here is to depin the wires from the JDM plug and to move them to the USDM plug in the same locations. The picture on the right shows the final USDM plug with all the needed wires.



On the ECU side. The left pic shows the JDM (left) and the USDM (right) plug. Only the JDM wires are left in color so you can easily see where they are and where they need to go on the USDM plug. Unpin the wires from the JDM plug and plug them into the USDM plug. The pic on the right shows the complete plug with all the needed wires.



Here is the engine side wiring in process. I removed all the tape and loom in order to route the additional wires properly. There was already a hole in the big rubber plug, so I used that hole to route the additional harness. I added "liquid tape" around the hole in order to seal it and waterproof it.

This is the tape that I used and recommended by iWire. Works great.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Scotch-Su...B&gclsrc=aw.ds




Final engine harness.


Last edited by salvi; 04-11-2015 at 11:59 PM.
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Old 04-08-2015, 02:06 AM   #18
Saabaru300
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You just made wiring a lot simpler, I worked with the IAP harness before when I was trying to get avcs working on my jdm ej205 buy after installing the harnesses, found out my cam sensors and solenoids were usdm ej25 and not jdm ej207. So I learned how to depin too. I saw the DS1 instructions and recognized the first and part of the second picture diagram then I got confused and didn't want to continue reading it. ;p

I am installing a Version 8 EJ207 into my Saabaru as I type this message and I am working with a local that makes the add on harnesses plus repurposing the TGV wires that you have layed out.
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Old 04-08-2015, 02:15 AM   #19
murrdogg24
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My avcs doesn't immediately come on, only after the car is warmed up...what's that got to do with the wiring ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 96SubyImpreza View Post
I made my own AVCS harness from a $3 wire from home depot and not only did it come out flawless but it sends signal almost instantaneously once the car is started (most don't).
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Old 04-08-2015, 03:47 AM   #20
salvi
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I hope that the write up helps other people out. I had to ask and research in order to figure things out. I just don't believe in re-inventing the wheel like most people in the 300+ thread pages believe. The process of rewiring the TGVs for AVCS was not difficult at all, it can easily be done in 30 mins to an hour at the most. I would say that it would take longer to run the custom wiring harness that is sold then doing it this way.
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Old 04-08-2015, 04:12 AM   #21
salvi
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Any reason why the stock AIT sensor on these engines is not connected?
Is it because there is no wires going back to the ECU? Is it just as easy as sending the correct wires from the engine compartment to the ECU?
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Old 04-08-2015, 03:03 PM   #22
salvi
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The different colors from the DS1 pinout instructions were bothering me. So I found the 02-03 WRX ECU pinouts and verified that all the pin locations and wire colors are correct.

https://www.xcceleration.com/pinouts...CU.Pinouts.pdf

LG= Blue w/ Green stripe
YG= Yellow w/ Green stripe
L= Blue
LY= Blue w/ Yellow stripe

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Old 04-08-2015, 03:05 PM   #23
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Well done
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Old 04-08-2015, 03:41 PM   #24
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Good thread as I need to buy my motor soon.

Also a thought. If the pan could be bent. It makes me wonder if the pickup would also get damaged at the same time. I already bought Killer B setup and many other small parts for my build.
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Old 04-08-2015, 04:39 PM   #25
salvi
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Quote:
Good thread as I need to buy my motor soon.

Also a thought. If the pan could be bent. It makes me wonder if the pickup would also get damaged at the same time. I already bought Killer B setup and many other small parts for my build.
You would have to remove the pan to verify. Hopefully mine is fine.
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