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Old 01-21-2013, 03:02 PM   #1
dvancleve
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 5211
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Chandler, AZ
Vehicle:
2007 Outback XT Ltd.
Diamond Gray Metallic

Default Where to get a clutch replaced and about what should it cost?

The Outback XT that I will most likely buy has a very stiff clutch. It seems to work fine, but the pedal is surprisingly hard to push in. Based on what I have read, that is either normal or what happens as a clutch starts to wear out. In any case, the fix is apparently a new clutch. Where is a good place to have that done and about what should it cost (assuming stock or similar)? Ideally it would be done in the east valley as I live in far SE Chandler? FWIW, the car has 57,500 miles on it...

Thanks, Doug
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:25 PM   #2
zachd
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Member#: 267575
Join Date: Dec 2010
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Vehicle:
2008 STi

Default

Just a thought before swapping...have you checked the fluid on it? Might just need the line bleed and put some new fluid in the system, and you could be good to go for a lot less money.


On another board, we make installs into a party, and the person needing work done usually pays in the fine sum of a few cases of beer and some pizza. I'm sure some members on here could lend a hand.
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:01 PM   #3
kpluiten
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: AZ
Vehicle:
06 WRBWRXWGN
Now with 100% more Spec-C

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Is your car a cable clutch? If it is, I'd bet the cable is corroded or dirty. As this occurs, the pedal becomes stiffer and stiffer. Eventually the cable will break.

If your car is a able clutch, I'd recommending servicing the cable or replacing it all together before starting in on the clutch. I'd bet the clutch is just fine.

It could also be that the ball in socket pivot of the clutch fork is dried out and full of clutch dust. This makes the pedal very stiff with time. A little high pressure grease fixes that right up. I always do this when doing clutches. It's a night and day difference after 80K or so that a clutch lasts and people always attribute it to the new clutch, but it's not that at all. Unfortunately, this requires separating the trans and motor...

The other alternative, though less likely, is that the throw out bearing is rubbing on the input shaft snout of the trans and the lubrication between them is gone/dried up/dirty. This requires separating the two to service. But I doubt that's it.
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:14 PM   #4
Rubber_Dubber
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Litchfield Park, AZ
Vehicle:
2007 WRX STi
WRB

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kpluiten View Post
Is your car a cable clutch? If it is, I'd bet the cable is corroded or dirty. As this occurs, the pedal becomes stiffer and stiffer. Eventually the cable will break.

If your car is a able clutch, I'd recommending servicing the cable or replacing it all together before starting in on the clutch. I'd bet the clutch is just fine.
This is the first thing I would check as well.
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:17 PM   #5
dvancleve
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Member#: 5211
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Chandler, AZ
Vehicle:
2007 Outback XT Ltd.
Diamond Gray Metallic

Default

I am told it is hydraulic, like my current '97 Outback. The Superstore service dept. guy said there is nothing that can be checked without taking things apart. I like the car, but this clutch thing could be a deal breaker, it is that stiff and I don't think the seller would be down with knocking another grand off the price. Is it likely that it could be fluid related, as previously suggested? Thanks, Doug

Quote:
Originally Posted by kpluiten View Post
Is your car a cable clutch? If it is, I'd bet the cable is corroded or dirty. As this occurs, the pedal becomes stiffer and stiffer. Eventually the cable will break.

If your car is a cable clutch, I'd recommending servicing the cable or replacing it all together before starting in on the clutch. I'd bet the clutch is just fine.

It could also be that the ball in socket pivot of the clutch fork is dried out and full of clutch dust. This makes the pedal very stiff with time. A little high pressure grease fixes that right up. I always do this when doing clutches. It's a night and day difference after 80K or so that a clutch lasts and people always attribute it to the new clutch, but it's not that at all. Unfortunately, this requires separating the trans and motor...

The other alternative, though less likely, is that the throw out bearing is rubbing on the input shaft snout of the trans and the lubrication between them is gone/dried up/dirty. This requires separating the two to service. But I doubt that's it.
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:37 PM   #6
kpluiten
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06 WRBWRXWGN
Now with 100% more Spec-C

Default

There's a chance it could be fluid related, but they I would assume that would be a blockage which would result in a slow pedal press/return, not just a stiff one. So I'm not thinking it's that.

My bet is on the ball and socket being dry then. Just from my past experiences. They can get pretty bad. Again, this is speculation, of course.

I would figure you could have a new clutch kit and resurfaced flywheel in that car for well under $1000. The clutch kit for that car (new Exedy kit, OEM manufacturer)runs about $150 or less on Amazon. Labor would be $600 or less. I would think. When I did clutches, I typically charged $300-$400 depending on the car and person and mood. But I'm also not a shop. And of course, have them service the clutch fork while they are in there.

There are a couple of cool independent Subaru shops around you could call for a quote. The car sounds really cool with only 57K on it. That's a heck of a find, depending on price. If you decide to pass on it, let me know the seller's information as I can do the work myself which makes these deals a bit in my favor.

Last edited by kpluiten; 01-21-2013 at 07:45 PM.
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:19 PM   #7
-=Lobstah=-
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Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Vehicle:
2007 Impreza WRX WG
WRB

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Just had an 09 WRX in our shop with totally busted CCI clutch. And it was wicked stiff as well. Just like kpluiten pointed out the reason (other than the clutch itself was toast) was dry ball/socket and buildup of clutch material in between the TOB and the shaft...
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