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Old 12-27-2013, 03:12 PM   #1
Dragon_Ski
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Default Grimmspeed manual boost control

Has anyone put one in their car ? If so how did it work ?
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Old 12-27-2013, 03:15 PM   #2
coupe-a-loop
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I have one. Bought the car with it though. Its been good no complaints at all. It seems to be a nice well.made unit.
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Old 12-27-2013, 05:05 PM   #3
Jmpell
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Funny this came up. Last night i had a friend telling me to get one to stop boost creep
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Old 12-27-2013, 06:22 PM   #4
2010 WRX Limited
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A MBC won't stop boost creep... But I hear everyone runs the Hallman pro rx. I like the idea of the cabin cable.
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Old 12-27-2013, 11:00 PM   #5
coupe-a-loop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010 WRX Limited View Post
A MBC won't stop boost creep... But I hear everyone runs the Hallman pro rx. I like the idea of the cabin cable.
That is pretty dam cool. I dont actually fiddle around with my boost often enough to reap the benefits of that though.
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Old 12-28-2013, 05:48 AM   #6
Bruere
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon_Ski View Post
Has anyone put one in their car ? If so how did it work ?
If you increase the boost in the car you have the other thread about just buying you will have massive detonation issues.
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Old 12-28-2013, 03:42 PM   #7
2010 WRX Limited
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The best way to use a MBC is to also use the EBCS for a hybrid setup. This way you get to dial in your max boost level and also get the benifit of ECU managed boost control ie: knock prevention etc.

Check this out:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602674
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Old 12-28-2013, 05:11 PM   #8
Dragon_Ski
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010 WRX Limited View Post
The best way to use a MBC is to also use the EBCS for a hybrid setup. This way you get to dial in your max boost level and also get the benifit of ECU managed boost control ie: knock prevention etc. Check this out: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602674
Thanks all for the great comments ... We actually want to dial boost down for winter rallys as full boost gets too much wheel spin. and I find it hard to modulate ...We only need to be a bit faster than the 07 imprezza to get to the top . I have cobb accesport runing stage 2 on our 2010 wrx and when boost hits with it on snow, the wheel speed goes way up and it takes a second or better to slow down again to where there is traction and you do not have
a second or better where you can be without traction on narrow icy roads when your flying .. I need power something between na and sti turbo ... atleast Thats what I want to try ..

Keep the comments coming.

Who is going to start the thunderbird thread this time ?
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Old 12-28-2013, 05:53 PM   #9
REED FLEMMMMING
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Amen, turn the boost down for winter driving. It's like as soon as the tires start spinning it just doesn't stop.

Another thing I'm noticing during cold winter weather is a miss at full boost when it's cranked to 18 psi with a rob tune. Of course most likely there's a minor boost leak I'm going to blame on contraction of plastic/rubber hoses due to the cold. But part of me wonders if the colder weather creates an oxygen dense air going into the mixture creating a lean misfire?
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Old 12-28-2013, 06:15 PM   #10
Bruere
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Oh, ignore my earlier comment if this is for another car. Maybe the money would be better spent on stuff to prevent wheelspin? Do you have a DCCDpro already? They're fantastic, I run one in my 555.

Quote:
Originally Posted by REED FLEMMMMING View Post
Amen, turn the boost down for winter driving. It's like as soon as the tires start spinning it just doesn't stop.

Another thing I'm noticing during cold winter weather is a miss at full boost when it's cranked to 18 psi with a rob tune. Of course most likely there's a minor boost leak I'm going to blame on contraction of plastic/rubber hoses due to the cold. But part of me wonders if the colder weather creates an oxygen dense air going into the mixture creating a lean misfire?
Almost certainly running lean and detonating yeah. Do you get a CEL flash when you get the miss?
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Old 12-28-2013, 06:30 PM   #11
Dragon_Ski
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REED FLEMMMMING View Post
Amen, turn the boost down for winter driving. It's like as soon as the tires start spinning it just doesn't stop. Another thing I'm noticing during cold winter weather is a miss at full boost when it's cranked to 18 psi with a rob tune. Of course most likely there's a minor boost leak I'm going to blame on contraction of plastic/rubber hoses due to the cold. But part of me wonders if the colder weather creates an oxygen dense air going into the mixture creating a lean misfire?
Reed ..would love to hear about your rob tune as we are looking at doing the same .. I cant seem to message you from my ipad .. can you send me something so we can open a link
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Old 12-28-2013, 06:45 PM   #12
Dragon_Ski
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruere View Post
Oh, ignore my earlier comment if this is for another car. Maybe the money would be better spent on stuff to prevent wheelspin? Do you have a DCCDpro already? They're fantastic, I run one in my 555. Almost certainly running lean and detonating yeah. Do you get a CEL flash when you get the miss?
Bruere

Love to hear about your 555 and the dccd ..Can you message me ?
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Old 12-28-2013, 06:59 PM   #13
2010 WRX Limited
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REED FLEMMMMING View Post
Amen, turn the boost down for winter driving. It's like as soon as the tires start spinning it just doesn't stop.

Another thing I'm noticing during cold winter weather is a miss at full boost when it's cranked to 18 psi with a rob tune. Of course most likely there's a minor boost leak I'm going to blame on contraction of plastic/rubber hoses due to the cold. But part of me wonders if the colder weather creates an oxygen dense air going into the mixture creating a lean misfire?
Sorry for the thread jack... This sounds like you could be experiencing boost creep. Do you have a boost gauge? I overboost when it's cold out not to the point of misfiring but it can cause fuel cut on a 2010. Also, I suggest checking your gaps, an adjustment there can help misfire.
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Old 12-28-2013, 07:20 PM   #14
REED FLEMMMMING
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Hey dragon ski I'll pm u a lil later.

As far as boost creep ya just weird how it only happens when cold. I made my gap smaller as well in the spring. I turned down two boost to roughly 15 psi but the car is immobile for about another week or so.
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Old 12-29-2013, 04:46 AM   #15
2010 WRX Limited
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REED FLEMMMMING View Post
Hey dragon ski I'll pm u a lil later.

As far as boost creep ya just weird how it only happens when cold. I made my gap smaller as well in the spring. I turned down two boost to roughly 15 psi but the car is immobile for about another week or so.
No it's not weird that it happens while cold. Air is more dense when cold so your turbo's ability to make boost is improved in cold weather. This also increases the chance for the boost to become uncontrollable by your wastegate aka boost creep. The best way to see what is happening is data logging. Does your Rob's Tune allow you to do that?
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Old 12-29-2013, 06:59 AM   #16
REED FLEMMMMING
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Total hijack No can't log nothing. I tried to get it communicating to the brick style ssm and the laptop but no go. Way back I contacted Rob about this and he said for some reason the communication program or whatever it's called was removed in the tune. Hey dragon ski, there is one down side to the rob tune. And ya as far as dense air the colder you get, that's what I was originally leaning towards. The car behaves like that usually when it gets below -12 or so. The car is mobile again and it's -1 out. We got dumped on big time so when the roads get plowed I'm gonna take it out for a rip and see what it does at roughly 15 psi. Also wanna see what 1.5 turns lock to lock feels like on the hi way lol.
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Old 12-29-2013, 07:08 PM   #17
coupe-a-loop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REED FLEMMMMING View Post
Total hijack No can't log nothing. I tried to get it communicating to the brick style ssm and the laptop but no go. Way back I contacted Rob about this and he said for some reason the communication program or whatever it's called was removed in the tune. Hey dragon ski, there is one down side to the rob tune. And ya as far as dense air the colder you get, that's what I was originally leaning towards. The car behaves like that usually when it gets below -12 or so. The car is mobile again and it's -1 out. We got dumped on big time so when the roads get plowed I'm gonna take it out for a rip and see what it does at roughly 15 psi. Also wanna see what 1.5 turns lock to lock feels like on the hi way lol.
Hey REED. I have a 95 sti type ra with robs 550. I notice almost exact same problem. It's so minimal I've learned to live with it. I have boost gauge and exhaust temp and all gauges read well. Maybe I'm lazy but I gave up on it. From what I've read the 550 has very aggrrssive timing. So varaitions in weather fuel and vehicle could make a difference. I've contacted rob directly with videos on this issue. Basically unless I get a wideband I'm blind. That may come, maybe not. But it doesn't affect me hardly ever and only if I'm pulling hard on a z4 its worth it. If you gather more info maybe we can collab on it??
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Old 12-30-2013, 04:31 AM   #18
REED FLEMMMMING
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Ya for sure probably worth making another thread.
I took the car out today on the hi way. It was roughly -1 and I had the boost dialed down a bit maybe 15psi. I had a couple other variables like summer alignment, heavy fog and new quick steer so I was focusing more on how the car handles on the hiway. There were no misses but the fog/alignment/ice held me back from really opening it up.
I don't know how cold you've run yours in but another note is even plugged in -25 it'll turn over smooth but idles like a dog almost systematically for like 2 minutes. Kinda like a switch. I remember reading somewhere apparently Rob said there was no cold start programmed.
I'm leaning more towards the original assumption of denser oxygen molecules in cold air. Makes sense cause there's probably a set value for O molecules per volume of mass air. If that value goes up the fuel ratio turns lob sided as in not enough fuel and a result of a lean misfire.
Gotta pull the car apart again but hopefully by next week I'll be out again.
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Old 12-30-2013, 02:44 PM   #19
Dragon_Ski
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REED FLEMMMMING View Post
Ya for sure probably worth making another thread. I took the car out today on the hi way. It was roughly -1 and I had the boost dialed down a bit maybe 15psi. I had a couple other variables like summer alignment, heavy fog and new quick steer so I was focusing more on how the car handles on the hiway. There were no misses but the fog/alignment/ice held me back from really opening it up. I don't know how cold you've run yours in but another note is even plugged in -25 it'll turn over smooth but idles like a dog almost systematically for like 2 minutes. Kinda like a switch. I remember reading somewhere apparently Rob said there was no cold start programmed. I'm leaning more towards the original assumption of denser oxygen molecules in cold air. Makes sense cause there's probably a set value for O molecules per volume of mass air. If that value goes up the fuel ratio turns lob sided as in not enough fuel and a result of a lean misfire. Gotta pull the car apart again but hopefully by next week I'll be out again.
Love to hear what you find
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Old 12-30-2013, 04:26 PM   #20
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If you want to dial down the boost just to see what it's like, just disconnect the boost control solenoid and put the lines together.

This will give you spring pressure which should be about 7-8psi but it might be more like 12...? I'm not sure what the JDM cars have for spring pressures...
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Old 12-30-2013, 06:46 PM   #21
alcoolaid
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You could just do the human traction control mod.... modulate your right foot lol.

In all seriousness there are a number of things you can do to bring the torque down. Less timing in peak torque areas, lower boost of course would be an easier one.... Pretty much same thing as not putting the pedal down so far.

Zip tie a 2x4 under the gas pedal
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Old 12-30-2013, 08:35 PM   #22
REED FLEMMMMING
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Quote:
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Zip tie a 2x4 under the gas pedal
Reason I got the tune is cause the damn engineers put the floor too close to the pedal!
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Old 12-30-2013, 08:41 PM   #23
REED FLEMMMMING
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But in all seriousness, it's tough to control the spin with the foot. At least with a manual boost controller. I suppose an ebc would let you set it for more gradual increase in boost. Seems like manual one is off or on. The initial torque is real nice but it's tougher to control wheel spin when in boost cause it takes off when the wheels start spinning. You can still keep it straight but car acceleration isn't there. Unless Alexinvancouver has some magical gears he's not telling anyone about I think that's the reason behind the 3-5 second difference in our rallyx runs lol
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Old 12-30-2013, 09:23 PM   #24
Dragon_Ski
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zefy View Post
If you want to dial down the boost just to see what it's like, just disconnect the boost control solenoid and put the lines together. This will give you spring pressure which should be about 7-8psi but it might be more like 12...? I'm not sure what the JDM cars have for spring pressures...
Interesting idea Zefy. .. simple to do so will have to try it
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Old 12-30-2013, 09:34 PM   #25
Bruere
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REED FLEMMMMING View Post
But in all seriousness, it's tough to control the spin with the foot. At least with a manual boost controller. I suppose an ebc would let you set it for more gradual increase in boost. Seems like manual one is off or on. The initial torque is real nice but it's tougher to control wheel spin when in boost cause it takes off when the wheels start spinning. You can still keep it straight but car acceleration isn't there. Unless Alexinvancouver has some magical gears he's not telling anyone about I think that's the reason behind the 3-5 second difference in our rallyx runs lol
He's probably just not spinning the tires everywhere. This sounds like a throttle manipulation issue and it seems silly to spend money to detune a car when the issue would go away with some practice.
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