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Old 01-02-2013, 12:41 AM   #1
borderless-world
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Unhappy 2006 Legacy 2.5i - Turns on but Turns off immediately Knocking / Squeaks from Engine




So here is where I stand. Got the Spark plugs changed after seeing oil in 2 of them. Then got the VGC changed a week later using subaru parts straight from dealership. Drove the car normally in the city with no harsh driving maybe about 50kms or so after the job was done. Maybe a hard accelerate here and there to merge in and out of traffic. Then I decide since I'm on an empty highway I'd give it some push. So i do, from 40kph to about 140kph (held at 5500 rpm for few seconds). After I let off the accelerator, the cruise light is flashing and check engine light is ON. I'm hearing some weird noises from the engine bay. Nothing like knocking or clunking but noises like hissing and stuff.

I pull over shoulder lane. Once i come to a complete stop, car is still on and its now displaying all the ERROR lights on the dash. They all came on and stayed on at the same time. Check engine was already on at this point but now it was accompanied by all the other lights the car has on the cluster. So we tried to start it back up, no go. When it does fire up, just makes knocking noises then goes dead. Car only starts up and stays on when started up COLD in the mornings now. Once I get that lucky start, the ones that follow after are all followed by engine losing power and going dead. Say if I turn the fan on, engine dies right away. There are metal filings now visible on the dipstick. oil level is fine though...

So I decide lets unplug and plug back all the random wires I can see in the engine bay. Did that and turned car back on. Same issue. Tried taking out the ECM fuse to see if that helps, nope. When the car is turned on, it shakes and knocks like it is struggling with itself to keep running. The car gains temp to normal temp below middle but if I turn on the heater fan, car shuts off right away. What could this be? If I put it into drive, it'll inch forward and once even 1% throttle is applied, it shakes, RPMs drop and car dies.



So I'm stuck with a lemon now which I bought less than a month ago certified from a dealership who passed it with leaky VGC and literally next to NO COOLANT was in the tank. I topped it up with Subaru's original coolant and the only oil / fluid level that has been effected by my harsh drive is the coolant. It has dropped a qtr or so from the full line. I had filled it up to a little above the full line. Mechanic came by last night with reader and got two codes: P0026 P0028. He wasn't sure what they meant either.

I checked the rad cap, seems fine no residue. Checked what I can visually. Could the mechanic that did the VGC job for both sides have left something plugged or unplugged that caused my car to spazz out on the highway when i gave it some power....? The knocking noise is accompanied by some sort of shrieking noise like metal on metal contact.

I have third party insurance for drivetrain. they cover 750$ per repair. Wondering how to approach this problem... The mechanic I got the VGC changed from is saying to tow the vehicle to his garage so he can further inspect the car.. Should I do this or wait till Warranty dudes send me to one of their places to inspect / repair.

So I have left it at his shop (he somehow got lucky with driving it to his shop, but as he drove it up his car ramp into the garage bay, it hesitated and shut off.
so it runs. but making a hell of a knocking noises when it is running. and won't stay running either. any hard power applied and its gone.
the mechanic took the front belts off to see if the wheels would spin freely and they all did. he suggests its something to do with camshaft or maybe the pistons are out of place.
its a boxor engine i know nothing about it so I'm really hoping you guys can help.

Thanks in advance!!!!!
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Last edited by borderless-world; 01-09-2013 at 04:52 PM.
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:36 PM   #2
GT11
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Your bearings are done, which means you need a whole new engine. Have you ran it low on oil recently?
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:00 PM   #3
borderless-world
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it has always been normal oil level. i checked after i got spark plugs changed and i checked after VCG was changed also. and even now after i heard those noises. the oil level remains the same.

this is from when i got oil coming out of spark plug hole so got plugs changed



then i was told by same mechanic get the VCG changed since i was scheduled to go on a long drive about 300kms in total, so this pic is from that job. original subaru parts.
im stood by the mechanics as they did the VCG job and the spark plugs. Not sure if they could've done something to cause the problem but now im stuck badly.

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Old 01-02-2013, 07:46 PM   #4
redblack
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Valve cover gaskets would not cause your engine to grenade itself like that. Do you know the history of the car at all? The only thing i can think of that would cause this would be low oil or lack of oil changes. Time to start looking for a new engine and its not the mechanics fault btw. Changing the valve cover gaskets and spark tube gaskets is an easy job. You cant really eff it up.
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:07 PM   #5
borderless-world
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redblack View Post
Valve cover gaskets would not cause your engine to grenade itself like that. Do you know the history of the car at all? The only thing i can think of that would cause this would be low oil or lack of oil changes. Time to start looking for a new engine and its not the mechanics fault btw. Changing the valve cover gaskets and spark tube gaskets is an easy job. You cant really eff it up.
yeah i had a feeling it couldnt be the cause.
before buying it the dealer told us the lag in acceleration is like all subaru's.
thats how they work. so we believed him.
3rd part warranty guys now have the car at one of their cert auto repair places.
their going to test on the engine and see whats up...
man am i screwed. history of the car was clean.
one owner car from quebec no accidents.
all the recalls were done i called subaru to check before buying
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:14 AM   #6
geronimo81
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Sounds like you have coolant going into your oil which probably caused the failure.

Oil can't do its job when it's watered down.

You most likely spun a rod bearing. This is exactly what happened to a wrx that I had rebuilt. It had a massive headgasket leak and spun a bearing. It squeaked and knocked and would barely run.
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:18 AM   #7
Patrick Olsen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by borderless-world View Post
So I'm stuck with a lemon now which I bought less than a month ago certified from a dealership ...
You bought it certified from a dealership less than a month ago - what do they say about this? Typically "certified" means there's some sort of 30 or 60-day warranty (at the very least).

Quote:
Originally Posted by borderless-world View Post
... who passed it with leaky VGC and literally next to NO COOLANT was in the tank.
I assume by "the tank" you mean the overflow reservoir? Level being low there doesn't mean much, as long as the radiator is full.

Oh, and going 85mph for a few seconds is hardly a "harsh drive". You did nothing wrong here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by borderless-world View Post
Mechanic came by last night with reader and got two codes: P0026 P0028. He wasn't sure what they meant either.
I found this website called "Google", put those codes in, and in a matter of seconds learned that those are codes for the two AVLS control valves.

I assume the videos are ones that you made of your car? Your advice to not buy a car without having a compression test done is nice, but a compression test wouldn't have done anything for you in this case - it can't magically detect a bearing that's about to eat itself.
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:56 PM   #8
borderless-world
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Hey Patrick,
In Ontario the rules and regulations on used car sales are pathetic. Even lemon laws don't exist. So once the dealership sells me a piece of trash, it is mine to deal with all the issues even 10 mins after i drive away from his lot.

Anyways yeah i guess going fast was not the issue. The engine being a piece of **** was.
and yeah i googled the hell out of things and those are just the random codes car spat out cuz it didn't know what else to tell me. spun bearings can't cause these codes. anyways the car is having its engine swapped through my 3rd party warranty. they say itll take about a week. and that no tensioners / pulleys / water pump will be changed but they will be inspected on the used motor going into the car. god knows if they will even inspect or just poke holes and have me pay out of pocket since these things are maintenance and not drivetrain related says the warranty devilish adjuster.
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